FuzzFace2

The big HEI dist. Is not such an issue on the 4.9 as it is on the v8s. On the v8s the vacuum can hits everything when trying to adjust the timing. Dave ----

It was 41° at 1230 when I got up. Its 36° where I am at now pumping off my first of 3 loads. Yes I do have 2 dogs but then you get flees I also like my soft bed over the concrete floor. When I get my butt in gear again I will post up what I have done and doing. Its mostly body work now and I hate body work so its hard to get going on it. Dave ----

I cant take all the lime light Not a lot of time when you work 14 hour days and the cold just sucks the energy out of you. When I get home its dinner and then bed for 4 to 5 hours of sleep. I also worked the last 7 days in a row. For some reason there was no work today and why I was able to do some work on the truck. Also since my son moved in he has put more of his things in my garage so less room for me to get in and do things even after I move the Javelin project out and to do that I have to move sons stuff Last week I was looking over local CL parts and came across 2 short bed frames one a roller and a CV motor & trans (can hear run). I was thinking of seeing if the CV was a full car for a CV suspension swap. But with no heat in my garage it will be hard sleeping in there when the wife kicked me out Dave ----

Cory, Sorry I did not get this sooner but no I did not see this. I also cant look at it as a don't have a FB acct. to log in but that may be a good thing as I may be living in my garage with no heat and its getting cold out there That floor looks like it was done pretty nicely. I would like to know what was done for the rear sill / panel and the front sill with the running boards as that was the hardest part for mine. As for used a non-Ford floor I think you are right on the bolts but also note where the bolts go there are spacers so when tighten the floor will not crush. The other is how wide the floor is. When I cut the sides off I ended up right at the seam where the sides & floor met. So it gave me an edge on either side of the floor to "trim" up to. Yes I used the long bed floor cutting the front off to make it a short bed. My bed has 8 bolts (4 down each side) the 3 from the rear were the long bed bolts and lined up with holes in the frame. The front bolts I think I had to drill the floor but I used the long bed front cross member that I cut to make the floor shorter that had the spacers in them and spot welded them to the floor to line up with the holes in the frame. The floor "pan" also had the indents where the bolts needed to go just no holes. Dave ---- Well I have been using the truck to / from work and trash runs with the weekly trash. Last week my son went with me. first time using the truck in a week it started right up ran great to the dump but as we waited our turn we could smell gas. Pulled it out of the way pop the hood and see gas dripping pretty good on to the manifolds, not good unless you want to start a fire! I only had a small screw driver but was able to take up on a clamp for 1 of the fuel filters and it stopped the leak so we could get home. Today my son forced me to look into this but I also wanted to adjust the high speed rod / seat to see if that would help my MPG. Pop the top on the carb and was shocked of the mess I saw in the bottom of the float bowl, RUST! The tanks looked great inside when I installed them of what I could see but 1 or both got to be rusty where I could not see :( I sucked all the gas out of the bowl then used a flat blade screw driver to get most of the rust out. I cant believe how thick the rust was yet the motor ran great. A few sprays of carb clean and clean rags got it pretty clean. I did a full turn CC as I think I was told to do and will see how it runs and adjust from there. My son use cleaner and back flushed the 2 filters. The first one was full of junk. He also found the short rubber hoses for the first filter to be bad so I replaced it, they were new when I was putting the truck together. I check the operation of the choke and that is working as it should. Back a few weeks I adjusted it a little richer to get the fast idle to work and it did the trick but my MPG went from mid 14's to mid 13's not happy. I hope with the high speed rod / seat adjustment that will pick up a lot. I found the oil low so topped that up then got the truck up on ramps and my son took up on all the pan bolts and had to replace one that fell out. I also took up and the valve cover bolts as they were loose also. I hope between the 2 I have slowed down the oil drops. I also have a head light out. none on the shelf I pulled what I thought was a good one from the spare radiator support but once out I could see it was bad. At that point I said I would buy 2 new ones someday and replace them both. The truck started and run fine moving it from my garage to the house garage. I will take it for a ride when I do the trash next weekend and hope it is good. Dave ----

Rusty, another factory stock fender in storage would take care of the rear door if you wanted to go back to stock. I also think once you have the larger rear tank with the smaller front one you will never go back to just 1 small tank. Also if I under stand you right on the factory EFI dual tanks the tanks have a low PSI pump and that is what changes the what tanks is used and the gauge as it is done in that assy. So why cant that be used and a high psi pump on the frame, again like factory, to run the after market EFI? Dose the factory high PSI not put out enough to run the after market EFI? Dose the after market EFI have a frame pump to use then you could use the low PSI pumps. You know what they say ... If there's a will there's a way I would go for either the factory 19 gal rear tank or any of the larger and not use the 16 gal side tank. If you have a flare side and need a rear tank door it has to be from a flare side as the style side door is different size and shape and will not fit the fender right. I would just move the front door to the rear and the part you cut from the rear just glass it in to the hole up front. If you have a style side it would be easy to come up with one from the junk yard and weld it in place on your bed. Just my .02 Dave ----

Ok on PC now What do they do on the FI trucks with dual tanks from the factory? I think the tank valve is switched by the fuel PSI IIRC and this also changes the gauge. I just don't know what that PSI is but why not do that set up on the truck? So you want to get everything for the rear tank like I think you said you got. Tank, straps, the cross member just in front of the tank the straps go to. As for the wiring. On my truck (81 F100) the dual tank wiring is all part of the main & frame harness. My parts truck was also a 81 F100 so it was just swap harnesses and I was good to go. Now I think you are using a newer dual tank harness in your truck so I don't know what you will run in to or have to make work. I think to go through all the work to have a level reading on the rear tank and have that pump transfer gas to the from is a lot of work. If me and I could not get both tanks to work like the factory did I would set up the rear 19 gal. as the main and the 16 gal. as the back up and transfer it to the rear. On the fill tube you are going to fill through the wheel opening? How much road dirt is going to be kicked up on it? Did you get all that from the parts truck? I like the clean factory look and why I molded the rear filler door into the fender. If you have a 2nd door assy. you could have a shop or you mount it in your bed side. I know not a lot of help here sorry. If there is something I might be able to shed more light on ask and hope I have the answer. Dave ----

When I get on my pc I will reread this and post what I think. Dave ----

Go on Facebook and look for a guy named Edgar Zencio in Atlanta, GA. I just bought some Flareside bed parts from him and he had a set of steps I believe with the brackets and everything, and he doesn't mind shipping. Prices were fair as well. Check him out. If you can't find him let me know. Wondering why my ears hurt Only set i did was mine LOL I would check the ones with a rear fill door as they may be for a dual wheel bed and are different. Dave ----

Not that I know of. I would hit the local parts store for one and call it done Dave ----

Keep plugging away and before you know it it will be done. How do you know it is over heating? Dash gauge or after market gauge or temp gun to get temps and if so from where? Dave ----

I think the wiring is the same between them but it is the wiring at the back of the tach from what I seen posted. 1 gets a ground and the other does not but I cant remember what one dose or does not and what post it is on. Gary must have it on here some where I would think. I was lucky my truck did not come with a tach and when I installed one it worked. Dave ----

Cory wanted to know what size wire for the trigger but it sounded like he was going to remove the factory solenoid and run the cable & start trigger wires to the starter or did I read it wrong That is why I said what I did on the wiring like the 2nd image that Gary posted. I was told to use a 10ga wire on the race car but I cant see why he could not use something smaller like the factory used? Dave ----

You said something about the bearings being warn. What if they are dirty or the oil gummed up? The cable spins it and at a point over comes the dirt and it "takes off" and all that build up power for a lack of a better word, is re-least (reads high) and then it is back it normal or just below (normal or below reading) where it need more power to over come the dirt again. This keeps happening and that is the cause of the bounce. Hay it sounds good don't it How many miles on each unit other than the NOS one? What kind of environment were they in? Windows closed and AC on (clean) or a farm truck, windows open and could grow corn because of the dirt (dirty). Dave ----

Ok for you I can see that but I don't think Cory and maybe others that go with a PMGR starter would have a PDC with relays over in that area Dave ----

What they dont like 300 six up there to not have at least 1:nabble_smiley_uh: If the thread part was to large it would not have been an issue but it was way to small. Any in the junk yards near you? Dave ----

I got to ask why wire in a cube relay when the 80 truck came with one on the fender already Move the large cable from the out put of the "fender relay" to the same side as the battery cable is on and the other end of the cable goes to the starter large lug. Now take that 10 ga wire and put it on the out let side of the fender relay and run it down to the small trigger lug on the starter. The fender relay should still have the trucks trigger wire on the "S" lug. When you go to start the truck the fender relay will close sending power down the 10 ga wire to trigger the starter. My drag car is set up this way and works great. Beside you could use a cheap fender relay as not much amps are going through it. Dave ----

As for the fire extinguisher, I plan to put one in the behind-the-seat storage unit That was one of the first things I did shortly after my truck got on the road and it is in the storage unit. Also car shows I have been to up north you had to have fire extinguisher to be able to display the car and had to be by the left rear tire so everyone knew where it was if needed. Dave ----

Thanks Shaun! I’m afraid you would not be impressed if you saw it in the flesh LOL. It is a heap, but if you can see the beauty in a heap then I guess it is OK. I understand heaps quite well, as my F350 fits the bill. I can see the beauty in them, but it's hard sometimes because I have to resist the urge to make it perfect. Looking more and more like a truck every day I found my housing was cracked when I pulled it for anew stat. Now you may want to pick it up local as you could run into a problem of the part that screws into the side. The one I got at Auto Zone the threaded part was to small and I could not screw the fitting in. Someone run it to the same issue and I found he got his from O'reilly's auto parts and it was the right one. Just don't want you waiting weeks and find it is wrong even if it is only $10 Dave ----

I don't remember how many shims but it was what ever it took to get the line of the fender to doors straight. Dave ----

I also don't know the answer to that question I know my 81 is the asst. type but I also had to "mod" the choke hot pipe. I am using EFI manifolds and they don't have a way to pass the tube through the manifold so I got copper tubing and made a few wraps around 1 of the manifolds. A few weeks back I adjusted the choke as the fast idle was not coming on, think the choke was not closing enough. I now think I went to much as I stays on a little longer than I think it should. Or did I not make enough wraps of the tubing? I am heating the intake with a hot water plate but I don't have the hot air inlet part as there is no way to have one on the EFI manifolds. As said this hot air intake will not have anything to do with the fast idle coming off, that is a choke thing. As for the icing of the carb. I don't think I have had any issues with that but it is only 2 miles to the high way with 1 (1/4mile from house) maybe 2 (2 mile mark) lights and only the fist I have to stop at 99% of the time. Other wise on the high way for 37 miles, and then 2 miles, no lights to work. So not a lot of idle time where I think the icing would show up most of the time? I am running the factory tear drop air filter assy. with the vacuum hose / flapper hooked up and think it works as I have not checked. Just what I found with my set up. Dave ----

I am no expert but I think either pump would work if it bolts up. Now is it me or the picture That the out put nipple is larger on the old pump? Dave ----

Would a TPS out of adjustment cause this? Wait maybe not as it would be reading the RPM from the IGN system right? Never mind me I don't know what I talk about That is why my truck dose not have a computer, I make all the adjustments. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum I am only getting mid 14's with my 81 F100 and it has a 300 six, NP435 w/OD and 2.75 rear gear I still want to make adjustments to the carb as the PO jacked the carb up before I rebuilt it. Dave ----

Yes Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year all! No truck or car parts this year, think I used them all up doing my truck Cory, you must be getting the heat we have today, got up into the low 60's but a lot of rain that went right through the rain coat doing LP gas. Tomorrow a high of about 37*! Think it will be a little warmer in the low 40's for Saturday so will have to dress in layers again for work. Dave ----

I am not using the cat and yes that is the only way I could get the pipe w/cat. I also don't remember needing to cut it to clear the cross member. Dave ----