FuzzFace2

Looks good from my house I was going to say once installed you wont see it but that is for the 300 and you will see it LOL If it works then why mess with it after it is in? yes I am lazy LOL Dave ----

I think I know just were that goes The rag joint cover is a 2 part deal. That is the inner part that I think fits on the box shaft and the rag joint installed. Then there is an outer "bell" type that fits on that part, a tab hooks on a PS line and it covers the rag joint. I didn't have my phone with me when I took the truck to my garage to tighten a hose at the box and needed to move the bell part and saw the part in the picture above. Dave ----

Yes it was the drop of the suspension when airborne and Ujoint bind, nothing about the Ujoint angles. Now you may think "I will not be getting airborne" but it is not that hard to check in the safety of the garage and let the axles hang and see if the Ujoints go into bind. If so then you add axle limit straps. They are made from seat belt webbing. You bolt 1 end to the frame and the other to the axle and should be just long enough to let it hang but not go in to bind. BTW shocks should not top out as a axle hang stop, that a good way to pop the top off shocks & break mounts. If you have that happening you need to run shock extensions and then you have to check you don't bottom out the shocks as that is a good way to break shock mounts and is not good for the shocks. What we had issues with was bottoming out the front drive shaft on landing a jump. It would bottom out pushing the transfer case back and breaking the adaptor between trans (auto) and transfer ending the day of racing unless you had a spare and did different type of racing later that dayas not to break the replacement before you could adjust the drive shaft. We had been known to rebuild a Toyota LC rear because it snapped the pinion going across the finish line. Also replaced a steering box on a 65 Jeep CJ, both taken out racing in the woods. Sent a team to a yard down the road to pull the parts and the others stayed to pull the bad parts off the trucks. Both trucks were ready to run their class in 100 yd drags that same day. Dave ----

The "bat wing" is different for the 300 six motor. I lost 1 off the motor before I could get the AC working and had to make 1 and because it was from alum. I made 2 to match. Dave ----

Did BB have a Sun II or some other tach? The Sun II is not all that big. Someone installed one in my 75 Gremlin before I go it I think there is to much done to it for the money but what do I know I am cheap Dave ----

OUCH! I just got 2 off Amazon for a little over $60 with free shipping Dave ----

Mine broke in that rubber grommet, doors working the day before then stopped? It took a bit to track down as it was "IN" the grommet! IIRC I pushed the plastic lines out and forced 2 rubber hose as the pass thru the grommet as the plastic lines inside were in good shape think the motor bay side was also so just used rubber hose. It was not a fun job LOL I have 2 new check valves and my factory one that don't check So every time the motor is under heavy load I loose my vent air. Dave ----

My PS one is different and the "arm" on mine has a hole that fit over 1 of the PS lines to hold it in place. Dave ----

Nothing on their website or in the literature suggest that you have to do anything with the driveshaft. The rear shaft is fine. We will see about the front. I take it that is with the weight on the suspension? What about suspension drop, hanging is it too short or the joints bind? On suspensions that have issues with hang you install limit straps to keep it from dropping to far. Hope you get lucky and don't need to "adjust" for the lift. Dave ----

Thanks for the information hope I get lucky and have the opening as I don't remember when I rebuilt the carb as part of my rebuild. Dave ----

This is a "fight" that will go on as long as we have cars & truck we can make "our own". So if you don't count the EFI exh. manifolds that might help with power out put, what would my 81 F100 flare side truck be? All the parts used were from an 81 F100 style side and all factory. It's just that the metal ribbed bed floor & rear (dual) tank did not come on flare sides. Dave ---- ps I have no issues calling it a "Restomod" as it has been changed from what the factory (never) did. Then again the badge on the fender "Custom" is true

I take it you have to do something with the drive shafts with a 6" lift no? Dave ----

I don't know who makes mine but it was on the cheaper $$ side and I am paying for it as it has never worked like I think it should when needed. It is either dead, plugged in all the time, or does not have the power to jump start. I have not looked for it in a while wonder if it walked with the other tools out of my garage? I just use another truck to jump start off of or run the cord & charger out to the dead one. Dave ----

I am happy I did not have to deal with that rust on my truck or I would have walked away when looking at it. Keep up the great work Dave ----

Before work today, yep the pipe line were we get the LP gas from was down for 3 days over 4 days so we had to play catch up. I fixed the exhaust leak, the adaptors I used to join the Y pipe to the mid pipe came off the Y pipe, if it happens again I will put a weld tack on it. I also fixed the rattle from the rear suspension, someone did not tighten the shocks but thought they were checked when the front ones made noise I see a PS fitting at the box is leaking, did not have time before work so will look at it tomorrow. Then depending how I feel may check timing and if really into it pop the top off the carb and see if I can adjust the rod / seat to lean it out. Dave ----

I loved the little jig he made for the broken fender bolts. Once the cab goes back on the frame and looking more like a truck again gives you good feeling. Then the nose so it looks like CC truck and then the bed even if no tail gate. Each one of them steps is what made me feel good. I know what ever you do or come up with on the bed will look great. Dave ----

Haha don’t even joke, hockey puck body lifts was a thing one time and maybe still is lol I dunno. Cory, master of flare sides or is that hoarder of flare side parts I did not know where to put this but it may help you and others with broken fender bolts. It is a link to a 77 flare but I don't see why it could not be used on ours. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1635593-77-f-100-flareside-bed-maintenance-repair.html The guys got skills to do what he did for the jig for the bolts and the patch panels. Dave ----

This is excellent news! I want to try one of these carbs soon. I just picked up a set of 300 engine mounts yesterday so I can install the engine in the frame. Question Jon: Are you running rubber fuel line all the way from the pump to the carb with an inline filter? I was wanting to make a new hard line but I don't know what the flares and fittings are. I guess it would be a whole lot easier to just run rubber hose. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n73537/B1529C31-3E0A-4D9B-8AA9-51E502A670F3.jpeg Cory, my 81 had hard line from pump to carb with a screw in filter from the factory. Someone at one point cut the hard line and added the extra filter. I don't have a good picture of the motor now but I only have the screw in filter and use rubber hose where the add on filter was. Dave ----

I only had 2 trucks I drove enough miles where that may have been an issue. One did not have a dist., diesel, and my Dodge I let the dealer deal with all that crap under the hood Only dist. I have dug deep in to has been my MSD in the drag car. This 300 I may need to deal with re-curve but again if I don't drive it much why go thru all that to get what out of it? I am one of the "if it aint broke don't fix it". Dave ----

Why would you need a dist. wrench on our trucks? It is not like we have points that we change out and need to set dwell & timing. And a lot of new motors no longer have dist.! Dave ----

In bed tie downs and looks to had a frame mounted trailer hitch. If you were to get that one you would just need a white one to have blue / red / white LOL Dave ----

I could but it is "out of sight out of mind" as it is under the air filter assy. and the hood is closed LOL I need to adjust the fast idle, little to low when I first start it cold. Also have an exh. leak and a suspension rattle in the rear. Should be cooler this weekend and hope to fix all this. Sorry to hear about the carb not working. Don't know why they would need the VIN for a bad carb? I can see a picture or 2 and just what was done up to the point of failure. Dave ----

Okay, this is making sense... although I believe it is usually missing parts on the engines I’ve seen. I’m vaguely remembering a thin tube with an orange silicone hose on the manifold set from the 4x4 donor. Filtered air for the choke it then goes to the manifold to get heated Then to the choke housing Dave ----

When I saw the speeds you are driving, I remembered posting a review of trips to Skiatook, OK over the years and thought I would share: 2014 55-62 mph with no aerodynamic modifications = 21.93 mpg [highest tank = 23.26 mpg] 2015 55-62 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 24.13 mpg [highest tank = 25.72 mpg] 2016 55-70 mph [weighted towards 65-70] with aerodynamic modifications = 22.05 mpg [highest tank = 23.46 mpg] 2017 Missing data due to having driven another vehicle. 2018 65-75 mph [closer to 75] with no aerodynamic modifications] = 19.87 mpg [highest tank = 21.3 mpg] 2019 65-75 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 21.65 mpg [highest tank = 21.95 mpg] 2019 60-75 mph with partial [see explanation, above] aerodynamic modifications = 19.12 mpg [highest tank = 21.17 mpg] I would love to get your lowest of 19 or even mid 17's I could live with. When I am ready to really get into this MPG thing I need to find your post of what was done for timing, carb and aero to get the numbers you did. With the over drive I have been shifting at or just below 2000 RPM and even on the high way in over drive @ 70 MPH it is just at 2000 RPM IIRC, but I have been running 65 MPH because that was what I was running with out the over drive to get a good reading of apples to apples. My gut tells me my main jet (rod & seat) have been played with before I got the truck. The carb was missing screws, had wrong type (sheet metal) screws and had parts in the wrong place. I did not adjust the rod & seat as the paper did not give specs on it so I left it. I don't have the money for a wide band AFR gauge so going to have to wing it but I am guessing if the rod goes deeper into the seat it would be leaner? Some day I will jump into it LOL Thanks for the information Dave ----

I am getting high 14's and mid 15's with mine and I have not done a thing to try and get it higher other than add over drive and no it did not go up or down on the 2 fill ups I have run so far. Most of my driving was high way at 65 MPH before & after the over drive. Dave ----