FuzzFace2

But harder to see the numbers on the probe with my good eyes I will see if I can get a reading from over there. Dave ----

Wait till the line cracks right in the middle of that plug in the first picture. You cant see the crack but the HVAC controls don't work and they were working the day before Mine inside were ok so what I did was replace the plastic lines in the engine bay with rubber vacuum hose. Where it went thru that plug I pushed out the plastic out made the hole bigger for the hoses to go thru and made the connection inside behind the glove box. I also have a 3rd hose from inside going thru that plug to a heater hose close off valve. It stops the flow of hot water thru the heater core when the setting is on MAX AC. I don't know if you can get that plastic line from any where as I did not look for it. Maybe someone else knows, but rubber hose works for me. Dave ----

I stopped at 3 because that was all the cans I bought the first round and because I thought I seen it posted 2.5 cans is what it took. After messing with the system and understanding how it all works then seeing the charts it gave me something to go by. That is why I did the 2.5 cans of freon as that is what I had to go by. Dave ---- Update: I picked up a temp probe to measure the temp out of the duct. This was taken fan on high, MAX setting in vent to the right when sitting in the drivers seat. OAT was 90*f Driving between 45 & 48 MPH in over drive RPM 1200 to 1300 The lowest temp I got was 51.6 as I had some lights to stop for where the temp went up to 53.7 IIRC the chart had a temp of 50 - 55 with OAT of 90*f A spread of 40* I think is pretty good. Dave ----

NP I should point out that picture is of the rear tank install on my flare side, the factory never had a rear tank in 80 - 86 flare side trucks. I used some parts from a style side dual tank truck and front flare side truck to make it work. As you can see I used the copper to join the plastic parts together and some exh. pipe for the outer hose. It filled great a few times but had to drop the tank because the new float went bad. I did not want to mess with the filler hoses or the door, fresh paint and all. So I only dropped 1 side to get to the sender and think the plastic hose moved or came loose as it is a PITA to fill now. If I lift up and point the nozzle to the lower part of the neck it seams to fill ok. Front tank is no problem to fill. Dave ----

The problem is they used the same part number for both types of condensers. So when you call or return it they get you the same part number and you end up with the same part. It really is not that hard to space the bottom out, that is all I had to do, to make it "bolt in". Besides once installed and the grille back in you will never see it is spaced out at the bottom. Hoses hooked up as they should and has been working fine for a few days now as I just got my system up and running. Dave ----

You realize the point when you have two of the same truck, and you need to be able to differentiate them when talking to people about them. Haha. I have 2 different 1970 AMC Javelins, no names, 1 a street car other a drag car. Maybe I don't talk about them much to name them Dave ----

Man is that the truth! when in high school I worked part time at a dealer ship body shop, dad ran it but not why I got the job. Any way one day a new car came in off the truck as 2 different cars! 1 side was an Aspen and the other side a Volare I don't remember what the VIN said it was but we had to change the wrong side to what it should have been. If I had not seen it with my own eyes I would not have believed it. Dave ----

I just got my trucks AC up and running. I had to replace the condenser, the PO bent it and closed some tubes. Went with the newer type used junk yard compressor. Because of the newer type compressor I had to go for new type hoses on the compressor. New dryer, orifice valve and psi switch on the dryer. I flushed out the Evap that had been open for about 4 years. Like Gary I kept the dryer sealed to the vary last min. and was the last thing to get installed. Because most of my system was new, read no oil in system, I had to add oil to each part. Installed dryer after adding oil and then pulled a vacuum and let it sit for an hour or more. Once I knew the system held vacuum I pulled more vacuum for about 2 hours to make sure everything was pulled out. Moisture will boil out under a vacuum and why you want to pull for a long time if you can. Now this is where it get tricky. At first what I seen posted it should have taken little less than 3 - 12oz cans of Freon. Well it only blew cool not cold and the low side pressure was low. I had to add another 2 - 12oz cans for a total of 5 - 12oz cans to get the low side psi up to what the charts say and it is blowing cold. I have a post "rebuilding AC system" or something close. Good luck Dave ----

Well it don't take much to confuse me The ticking when you went to far with the dist. could have been pinging I have never gone that far before to say I have ever heard it but if you backed it off and it stopped I would say you are good. I would check it with a light when you can just to make sure, would hate to hurt that new motor. Talking of new motor how many miles are on it? Some low RPM to full throttle pulls will help seat the rings just keep the RPM from going to high is all.\ A few heavy loads in the bed will help also. I would say till you get a 1000 miles or more the rings will not be seated. Yes have AC now and just in time as the front fan stopped working in my Durango. With AC and the over drive its a nice truck to drive. I took back roads to 7pm / from 12am work last night and in OD at 45 MPH the motor was turning about 1250 RPM, 55 MPH is about 1500 RPM. The 300 just likes to pull at that low RPM where a v8 I don't think would be happy. Time to load up the trash in the "garbage truck" as Jim calls it for its weekly dump run Dave ----

Don't know if you got it back in or not but that black plastic hose fits into a fitting both at the tank & filler neck. Its kind of a opening that it pushes into to hold it in place. Here is a picture of the neck side, tank is the same. Dave ----

Could you use the wiring for the rear window to run the fan and just install a 2nd rear fan switch. My 02 Durango has a front / rear HVAC. I can control the rear system from the front and then switch the front to rear control and there is a control panel in the top panel just above my head that they can use if they want. IIRC my 73 Toyota LC had a rear heater / fan and the fan switch was on the dash. I cant remember if it was 1 speed or more as its been to long ago. Dave ----

I have never named any of my cars or trucks guess I just don't see the point Dave ----

Technically, I cheated... I just downloaded the image at a resolution I liked and the uploaded it. I did mention where it came from though. It made it easy to zoom in and look at even on my small phone screen. The only thing I see or don't see is if you have 2 tanks or Bronco rear window, where does the switch go? Was it placed somewhere else and if so where / how? Dave ----

Where do you keep finding them in this great shape Nice looking truck and yes we need to know more. Dave ----

From the look of the picture they would be long tube but hard to tell. If they dump where the factory Y pipe would then the longer tubes would be their way of making them long tube. You also get them crazy shapes when trying to make all the tubes the same lengths. If the other side had no restrictions then to match this side they had to go crazy. As Jim pointed out headers are made to work in a certain RPM range. Smaller tubes keeps the velocity high ay lower RPM to help pull the gasses out of the motor but not made for higher RPMs. Larger tubes would have lower velocity flow at low RPMs so don't work to good at low RPM but start turning higher RPMs and now you are back up with the velocity to pull the gasses up of the motor. BTW in racing with open headers you want to run header extensions of a certain lengths for RPM range too. Dave ---- BTW Eldy sold headers and shorties at one time, don't know if they still do. I know years ago they stopped making shorties for Jeeps and there was 1 set that fit AMC cars. To get rid of stock they were selling them 50% off. I got a set for my Javelin and hope they fit as I have not tried them, the long tube headers have pin holes and gasket leaks.

Best Engine; Best Upgrades; People's Favorite; Closest To Stock; Ugliest Truck; & Best Story. What no "rags to riches" I don't know where mine would fit in as it is not stock but does look the part. How bout best hidden mods or what the factory should have done? Dave ---- edit I added the factory part before I seen yours Gary

The "pinging" you hear "and then richen 1/4 turn" don't go hand and hand? The 1/4 turn would be the idle mixture setting but driving and hearing the pinging is not on the idle part of the carb, it is on the high speed or main jet side. Go out for a good long drive to seat the rings, burn off some oil that might be on the plugs and then pull them to see what they look like. Now with todays gas it is hard to see if it is rich or lean so that's where the AFR meter comes in. Maybe go 1 number higher on the main jet and see if the pinging stops and go from there. Dave ----

Easy enough to test, pull the vacuum line to the EGR and plug it and see if it stumbles. Dave ----

You will have plugs for under dash lights, right door light switch and clock IIRC all up in there. Dave ----

I did give that some thought but I had the 7 blade and others in my auto electrical box and has been on the truck since November when I got the truck on the road, just not wired up. In almost 20 years I have had the Durango I have not needed the one that came with the truck when new. But you know how it goes you need the adaptor that is always in that other truck LOL Dave ----

The floor mats are almost OK as MOPAR bought AMC mostly for the Jeep line. We AMCs are invited to MOPAR meets because of that and put a hurting on them when drag racing. Dave ----

I cant remember if the frame is straight on the sides from the cross member forward or not? I think it was so a straight edge will help to get it straight front to back. Work 1 side at a time. Use the fork lift and say a 4x4 between the lift & frame. Lift would be off to the side where the front axle is. Then a come-a-long on the front of the horn to the side of the lift. Pull a little and then check the top & bottom of rail to see if they are bent up or down. In the picture it looks like the right top of the rail is bent down. If so as you pull hammer it back up along with the bottom part of the rail. Pull a little more and hammer and using the straight edge on the outside of rail see if it is straight. You will need to pull it a little farther than flat as it will spring back. Do the same on the left side rail till it is straight. The only thing like you pointed out is that crack / weld, was it done before or as part of the bending as that could make it harder to pull back into place. You can also use that front bolt in cross member to make sure both rails are parallel to each other same with the bumper. As for up & down it depends on just how much if it off? I would say anything 1/2" or less I would not worry as the radiator support can be shimmed and I think there is enough adjustment in the bumper to take that up. With out seeing it in person and what tools you have on hand like the fork lift, some wood and maybe a ratchet straps might work to get it back in place? The big thing is as long as the frame is bent out front you can fix it with tools on hand but back farther can be a bear. If you can get frame dimensions for measuring would also help to make sure the frame is true all the way back. Dave ----

I got to say I was happy with the HF gauges & the vacuum pump they both did a great job. Only thing is make sure you can hook up both the low side and high side of the gauges. My low side screwed onto the dryer but the high side would need an adaptor to hook up. The hose was to large for the fitting on the line at the pump. Dave ----

How bad are the front rails bent and where? If you have a good front bumper so you can get the spread and get them up & down straight also, its not that hard to get them right. Big trees or telephone poles make good pulling points with a come along and a sledge hammer will bring them back into place. I had to straighten mine and I took the best bumper I had to work with. Then again maybe that is the body / frame guy talking Oh and I did not have any heat wrench (torch) to work with. Dave ----

I just did a quick look over your first post about over drive and transmission swap. My 81 F100 came with a T18 that was needing help. I also looked in to an over drive trans but wanted something HD like a ZF5 but hard to find to fit a small block and a whole lot of money if you can find one! I was able to find a NP435 that was a direct bolt in but it does not have over drive, I fixed that with an Advance Adaptor range splitter. It goes in front of the transmission and you can split all gears if you want. I don't have a lot of miles on the truck since I installed the OD unit but so far I am happy with it. I do have a post on the swap but I put a little more work on the install than most would as I wanted the stick to come out in the pan and it look factory stock. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Operation-NP435-amp-Over-Drive-td64090.html Dave ----