FuzzFace2

Thanks on the truck. It was just to be a truck to make weekly trash run to the dump but when I went to patch some holes that had patches already I had to start from scratch and snowed balled from there. Yes you do see some AMC stuff. I have 2 - 1970 Javelins: 1 a 1/4 mile drag car I built in a small 1 car garage back in CT. Have not raced it for too many years and would need to go thru everything before hitting the track again. Car has a 360 / TH400 from a Jeep 4.56 Detroit locker out back. The other is my street car project. I was trying to get it on the road for my 50th b,day and that did not happen 10 years ago. Under hood has been done, dash restored with custom gauges that look factory stock, and silver carbon fiber over lay that also looks factory till you look close. Body work is done on the nose and both doors. Working on flush mounting the front & rear glass then do body work to the roof & from the doors on back. The car has a 360 and T5 5sp, was a 390 / 4sp car from the factory. I also have a 1975 factory v8/auto Gremlin that is mostly stock. I have a Holley 500 cfm v2 carb, shift kit in the trans and a lock right locker in the rear. I was drag racing it & driving it on the street before the drag car was done. The New England winters has done the body in and if I come across another small body AMC I will swap all the v8 parts over to it. Yea I was into the ACM's pretty big before this pick up truck LOL Dave ----

It looks really good. Cant wait to see it all together. When I did mine in the garage there was some dirt from when the hose broke I lifted the garage door to throw it out side and being electric the start & stop knocked some dirt off the door & tracks. I also had a bug land on 1 of the rear fenders. To tell the truth I cant remember seeing the spots when I washed it the last few times? It could be as the paint sets up, still off gassing, over time and flattens out they must have flatten out in them spots too? I am happy the way mine came out and others have said its a nice paint job and when the ask who did it and I say I did and in my garage they kind of look and say right? Dave ----

Gary, thanks for the break down. I searched with a O and a 0 space and no space, think I even tried 8509, but did not think to try the E2TE-BA as I did not really know what that was. Wish me luck as I will try every combo I can think of LOL Thanks Dave ---- Jonathan, Package showed up today just don't know when I will be able to clean / paint and install it. Been up since 11pm last night for work just got home long enough to stuff a tuna wrap in me and back to bed as I got to be up at 2:30am for work tomorrow. Then when I get home I have to make the weekly trash run with the pick up. If I have anything left I will clean & paint the pulley. Sunday I have to cut the grass as I am loosing my cats in it, goofed off last weekend and did not cut it. Thanks again for the part Dave G.

Edit...I'm only referring to the 1985-1986 302 EFI...I assume the covers changed in 1987 when they went to the serpentine system. I am pretty sure you are right as the water pumps turn backwards so the covers are made for that. Dave ----

Wonder why it does not have the plug on the end being NOS? I had to cut them off the broken lights I had and put them on the replacements so they plug in like the factory had it. Dave ----

I checked with my local store today when trying to return AC parts that did not fit and yes they do. They also had 2 different gauge setup, one for $70+ with out a case and $85 with case and both were R134A only also. With out the case gauges looked cheap and had big space between the readings, went mostly by color of green / yellow / red and not much on PSI. I did not open the case gauges but the picture showed nice PSI markings like a real gauge would and almost got it. Think I will swing back by HF and look there gauge setup that also came with a case, over a little better and if it has good gauge markings I will get it as it was cheaper then the AZ set. If the HF don't pan out when I rent the pump from AZ I will get the gauge kit with case then. Northern Tool, at least mine, does not carry AC gauge setups. Dave ----

I just came from HF to get gauges and look at a pump. The gauges were for R134A only with a hard case and quick disconnects for $60,Pump was $90. I did not get either as I wanted gauges that also do R12 and think I can get a loner pump from AZ as I cant see using a $90 pump once and have it sit. Dave ----

Keep impulse buying it not all the bad I don't know why I get a belt for my 81 and not the 83-86 trucks? I have not checked on line if the belts are different but I am sure they are. I have not done this part on an auto, steam chillers are a whole different ball game. I did have to run a vacuum pump on the 2 chillers at the start up of cooling season. I picked up the PSI switch on the way home from work today and think I will stop and pick up a set of gauges tomorrow. My son said he has a set here somewhere but I don't remember seeing them around. The new dryer should be here tomorrow and I will get a belt that I hope will fit. I really want to try and get a vacuum on my system and check for leaks over the weekend. Thanks again for your help Dave ----

I think you are doing the right thing on replacing everything if the system is that bad. This way when you charge it and start using it you will be frosty LOL Thanks for the pictures it helps, if not me someone else down the road. Till I knew there was a 3 groove large dia. pulley I was just guessing. A member found a water pump pulley with the 3 grooves and should be on its way in a day or two. I was told mine, from the parts truck, held psi till they hit the condenser when pulling the motor and crushed the tubes. When I pulled the orifice valve it was nice and clean so I feel the evap on mine is in good shape. Only the compressor is used from junk yard but the oil that spilled out looks good. A few more parts to replace the wrong ones I got and I should be good to go. Dave ----

Thanks guys for all the comments good or bad we all learn. As for the time vs money as Steve put it I can see his way of thinking. My time is just that my time so not much money to it. As for adjusting my switch or get new I will most likely go new from NAPA as it is listed for R134A where the AZ one for any truck even up to 96 was listed for R12. Also it looked like a PITA to adjust the switch and who knows if it worked before I got the truck even if they say it held psi till they took out the condenser with the motor. I member has come up with the water pump pulley I need so I should be good to get the system vacuumed down & leak checked then filled I hope this coming weekend. Thanks again, with out the help from members I could not get this AC system and other things worked out. Dave ---- edit: I did buy the NAPA switch this way I don't have to mess with the old one and I know it will be 2000* in the garage when got to do this.

Jonathan, thank you for helping me on the pulley and all the other things you have over the years. When I told the wife I ran into a problem she is like NO MORE MONEY! That pulley is just what is needed to get the belt on the AC compressor. Speaking of the belt and it just hit me, the belt I ordered was for my truck using the York pump and it would not fit even with the small dia. groove on the water pump pulley. I need to check for a belt on say 85 truck as it would be using the same compressor that I am now. I also saw the number on the pulley and when thru Gary's list and did not see it and was like WHAT? Well we see it was a carry over. I was wondering if the older trucks would have the water pump pulley I needed when I put a WTB add up. Again thank you guys for the help Dave ----

Ya, I figured as much. The earlier Bullnoses are a bit foreign to me, so I need to get up to speed on all of the earlier options. Both. Cab floor will need some work for sure, and the frame might have a couple spots that need to be repaired. At a glance, everything looked fixable, but I won't know for sure until I get a real good look at it underneath. I didn't see anything that scared me...not yet at least. My good buddy Chris has running gear parts, so once I get a real good look at everything here and start taking it apart I'll be making a journey to his place to scavenge a transmission and some other parts. Dose the motor have a bell housing, any clutch linkage mainly the motor side cross bar mount that screws into the block? To move the , if motor runs, don't you have a 3 speed you could pop in there till you find something better and a transfer case. What is that report you can get on trucks? Marty or something? I bet that would tell you how it left the factory. Dave ----

Nice looking Javelin. It a 71 - 74 Javelin and looks to have AMX badge on the rear pillar. They had a base model and a SST model. Do you know what size motor it had? they came with 258 straight six, 304, 360 & 401 v8's and for transmissions they had auto's and 4 sp sticks. The 68 - 70 Javelins were base model or SST, most were SST. Then you have the 68 - 70 AMX, it was 12 inch shorter than the Javelin and 2 seat model. 2 different cars for 68 - 70 when in 71 - 74 they no longer made the 12 inch shorter AMX but made it a upgrade to the Javelin model. Dave ---- Started on the AC install yesterday. Got the compressor mounted, my hand made mounts worked great. Once the pump was in place I worked on hose fitment as I did not know if they would work. 2 of the 3 new ones fit and they were from the pump to condenser & pump to dryer, the dryer to condenser I had to reuse the old hose as the new one had a wrong end on it. I think the newer evap coil has a different fitting that the new hose would have fit? The pump to dryer sits up a little high so I needed to bend the tube on the dryer and should have enough room to close the hood. I did get a newer dryer but it would not fit the evap coil so I ordered a new one for my year truck and will need to bend that tube. The newer dryer has a different tube so the hose sits lower to clear the hood but what I have will work just looks a little off. Then I moved on to the compressor belt and run into a problem. I have a mix of AC and non AC parts on the motor and did not know this till the compressor was bolted in place. I am also running a GM style PS pump and this was also causing a problem, it sits in the AC belt groove on the crank so I quit for the night to think this out. Today after checking with members on how the belts run on a factory AC 300 six motor I found the 3 belts, ALT / AC / PS all go over the water pump pulley and crank. Well the PS is sitting where the AC belt needs to go and there is no groove in the WP pulley for this to happen. Non AC motors for PS just goes from crank to PS pump. So first order was to see about finding a 3 groove water pump pulley for a 300 with factory AC, this could be BIG ISSUE as I am not finding one. Plowing forward I had to move the PS pump back about 3/4" so it could use the center cranks groove, the ALT uses the one closest to the motor. For now I was able to stack 2 nuts and longer bolts for the main mount and some washers and longer bolt for the rear adjusting bracket. I had to get a new belt as it now has to go over the water pump pulley but it works as I had the motor running and the belt did not fly off. The new AC belt I got will not work, to short even now going over a small groove water pump pulley. So when I get the right water pump pulley with 3 large grooves I can drive the truck to AZ and try belts till I get one to fit. I tried to return the newer dryer, the AC belt that is to short and the hose that fits nothing I have but did not have the receipt for them, phone was home charging. So when I pick up the new dryer I will return them then. So if any one knows where to get a 3 groove water pump pulley for a 300 motor that has factory AC please let me know I need 1 badly. Dave ----

Bill, I did check the switch and it is adjustable just did not look like it was a flat blade type? What I am not following is what you are doing with the jumpers? Is it so you can um-plug the harness to access the switch adjustment but still have it connected to the system / harness? IIRC it is a low PSI cut off switch so at what PSI should it cut off / on at? What if you adjust the switch and with gauges when it hits that PSI when it should come on you plug the harness back in and see if it works and if not adjust and try again? Local NAPA would have to order it for next day and it is for R134A. Auto Zone has it in stock but only lists the one for the R12 system. On a review someone said go with 96 truck but it list the same switch number or different switches with different plugs. If I know the PSI for the 134A I will try and adjust mine. Heck I could make a rig to use shop air and a meter to set it before I install it in the new dryer. Dave ----

Gary, thanks for the break down. I searched with a O and a 0 space and no space, think I even tried 8509, but did not think to try the E2TE-BA as I did not really know what that was. Wish me luck as I will try every combo I can think of LOL Thanks Dave ----

Many thanks for this detail and the "nugget" about changing the pressure switch over for R134a. And to the original poster, Dave, for posting on some of the aspects of this modification. I haven't gotten as far in my build yet, but I went with a serpentine conversion system that has a "peanut" Sanden compressor setup that I will be plumbing in eventually. Hope you have had success in getting the pulleys sorted out. Dave, I don't think you will have any of the problems with the 302 as I do with the 300 and even less with that belt set up. Did your truck have AC from the factory or something else? Good luck with your build. Dave ----

Thanks when you can, I just want to make sure that is the part I am looking for. I been out in the garage trying to make heads or tails of what I got as I have a mix of AC and non-AC parts on the motor but did not know this till I bolted the compressor up yesterday. I hear you on the heat. I have to hit the parts store to exchange wrong parts and get the right PS belt so I can see if the PS spacing I did will work or not. Then I am also calling it quits for the day. I am sure I will be out in the heat tomorrow for work Dave ----

Steve, that is the 83/ factory bracket And I just bolted up a compressor from an 85 truck to the bracket with no issues. My issues are my truck used a York compressor so used different hoses. I was told the newer compressor hoses would not fit my truck. Well they do I just have to bend the tube a little on my year dryer for the hose to clear the hood. The newer year dryer does not fit the evap coil, I tried. On the evap coil and the blue wonder if that was blue paint from when they painted the truck? It looks like the same color. Dave ----

The control panel sure looks like factory AC one as does the under hood stuff. I would get the system re-newed like you are doing with out the pusher fan and see how it works. Again with all the posts of conversions and they work pretty good I cant see having any issues if it is all new like in your case. We are so close on the pictures or information for the water pump pulley I need. Could you tell me if it has 3 belt grooves and if they are the same dia.? On a side note what belt numbers do you have for the AC & PS? The belt I got for the AC will be to short and the way the PS belt was run was for a non-AC truck and the too small AC belt is to wide & long for the PS. Thanks Dave ----

:nabble_smiley_blush:I remember talking about it now number is on my pad to get with other parts when I go out later. Thanks Dave ----

Ebay did not turn up anything on the pulley but did on the 2 inch spacer .......... for $90 NOS Now I can sleep knowing the spacer is just a 2" deal. Dave ----

My grass needs cutting again but I am putting it off, it will be there what I am ready Ok took the AC & PS pumps loose so I could play with the belts & pulleys. I also checked out the information on the pulleys and it looks like the crank pulley / balancer is the same for the 300 motors AC or not. But the water pump pulleys are different. It is hard to tell the size of each groove from the information but it list a few as 3 grooves and the 1 I have now is a 3 groove pulley. Thing is 2 (close to motor and next one out) are large dia. and the last one is smaller dia. think for the air pump on non-AC trucks. On AC truck the air pump runs off the ALT. I don't have an air pump and the ALT only has 1 groove to drive it. That small dia. groove is where the AC belt needs to run and being a different dia. than the other 2 with belts on them a belt or 2 would burn out running at different speeds. So I am on the look out for water pump pulley E0TZ 8509-B. Now also listed is a spacer E2TE-BA OR E0TZ 8546-A. I don't know where this spacer goes if after the pulley is on the pump I can deal with that to space the fan into the shroud some. As for the PS pump belt that is now running in the outer crank groove and needs to be in the center groove I think I can space it back some and still be a strong mount so that is what I will try and work on today. Oh I can see I will have fun with the AC & PS belts. The new AC belt just makes it with the small dia. WP pulley so no way with the large one. The PS belt now went crank to PS pump and needs to go over the WP pulley so way to short and the new AC belt way to long. Nothing is easy with this truck Dave ----

I will have to check it out. I did see a post I thought on PS pulleys I did not think to look for water pump pulleys at that time. Then again I was kind of burnt out from the heat and this issue:nabble_anim_crazy: Dave ----

Steve, what switch (part number) are you using for 134a? I looked up the switch for my truck, 81 factory AC, and for a 85 and both were for R12. If I was to get one say for a mid 90's truck, should be 134a by then, I don't know if the plug would be the same as mine. I also seen a post that mine might be adjustable, need to look when back in the garage, and just a vary little turn is needed. Factory AC 300 / 4.9 trucks came with fan shrouds the non-AC trucks only had a fan guard on the top so you did not get eaten by the fan. Because my truck was a mix of parts when I got it has I think has a 5 blade fixed fan. I had to come up with the shroud and it made a big difference on the amount of air pulled thru the grille. BTW the radiator supports are for AC or non-AC trucks, I have an AC one. The new condensers do not bolt in. You have to space it forward so even less room between it and the grille. From what others have posted over the years on 134a change over I don't see any issues not having a pusher fan out front as long as you have a good fan & shroud. Still working on getting my AC system together and working. I am this close .......... LOL Dave ----

LOL it was the big floor fan in the garage I had pointing at me when working over the fender. I found this picture https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/843x500/screen_shot_2018_02_09_at_10_24_01_pm_383fb6c9dadb8ecacba20fd69e8978c2043c068a.png and some other posts on that other forum shows that I may need a different water pump pulley. The other thing is the PS pump is using the front crank pulley groove where it should be in the center one. Now what may be a cause is I am using the GM type PS pump and the way the mounting bracket is mounted to the front of the timing cover may be an issue on moving it back. So tomorrow I move the truck back to my garage and pull the compressor & PS pump to see if I can wove it back to use the center crank groove then see if the AC pump will line up. But it looks like I will need a water pump pulley for AC. Dave ----