FuzzFace2

I am pretty sure with out the ant. AM will not work. I say this because when AM was the only thing if you went under a long bridge or tunnel the station would stop working. And going back farther IIRC you needed to tune in to a AM station and then "trim" the ant to pull in the station the best. Dave ----

Here is 1 picture of my setup for the rear tank. You can see the plastic tube and the holder at the top, there is one like in at the tank too. Because I added a rear tank to my flare side I had to make up the filler hose setup. Dave ----

Do we know where one might be able to get them neat cups? Dave ----

Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet. Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet. This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks. So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line? I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried. Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks. IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck. FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one? I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything. Dave ----

I also like the low back its all about that era when safety be damned LOL As for the cup holders I get my drinks in bottles with screw on caps. Besides with a stick trans there's not much time to be drinking. I dont like any of the consoles I have seen. If on the seat it takes up to much room, shifter on the floor so cant go there and same for the front of seat, shifter will hit it. Dave ----

Thanks, I should do that. Does anyone know where I can get some high quality flexible or rubber fuel line? If I need to use a longer section I want something good quality. The one from Autozone seems cheap and the black color on the fuel line was coming off when it got exposed to some fuel when I was pumping out the old tank. Not a good sign. https://www.autozone.com/plumbing-hosing/rubber-hose/continental-5-16in-fuel-and-emissions-hose-sold-per-foot/4955_0_0 I will get out and measure the line asap. My take on using rubber hose. NHRA drag racing rules say no more than 2 feet TOTAL of rubber fuel line. I believe if something goes flying and hits a fuel line it will cut rubber were metal will most likely crush. Rubber will break down overtime and leak where metal will take a lot longer to rust and leak. Also in a crash rubber could break and leak metal only bend. BTW where a fuel line goes by the clutch / fly wheel area it needs to be encased in heavy steel tubing for protection. So I try vary hard to follow their rules even for street cars & trucks if I can. That is why if I had to get the line to reach I would get more metal line and use a short piece of rubber hose to join the 2 parts over the 2 feet of rubber to make it reach. Its just me and how I would do it. On my drag car I ran alum. line for fuel from the fuel cell in the trunk out the truck floor into a filter then a pump then alum. line up to the engine bay to a regulator and in to the carb. I used braided line between regulator & carb. Dave ----

I forgot you can use thin steel wire. Poke it through the tape and then pull it like a saw. Dave ----

When I was in high school, trade school, 1 of the shop teacher had a 60's Jeep with a SB Ford in it ho towed in to do a little work on. Dont remember what work was needed now. Dave ----

My 81 is like Scott's, set is and forget it on both tanks. It is all in the vent hose I took a lot of time when I worked the tanks to make sure the vents were in place. You are going to need to remove the filler hose(s) and make sure the vent tube is in the tanks holder and up top before the outer rubber hose is put back in place. Dave ----

You know what works better than part numbers ........... Picture of the part! Dave ----

Nice work If the fuel line is this short I would not make up the rest with rubber hose! I would get another 2 flare nuts and cuppler and leanth of metal line to run the leanth. Put the nut on, flare the end, add the cuppler nut & flare the metal line and join the 2. BTW what end is it short at, tank or pump? That is the side tank you are working on but I dont think if they sent you a short bed line it would be that short? With dual tanks the line from pump to tank valve is the same on both wheel bases. I think I have my old SB line hanging on the wall and can measure if you want. Dave ----

Yes Yes it is Dave ----

Great only if I checked a min ago so I did not need to crawl under my truck Well so we have it in 1 place. On my 81 flare side the front tank straps are almost tight to the cross members F & R and have maybe 2" thread showing. I did not think of it till now typing this to look at the rear tank straps Dave ----

LOL I find starting in down in the middle of the tape and when you start to pull it to tilt it just a bit so it will come up to the glass and cut between the glass & tape. It is a fine line of getting the blade to be to the glass but not so much it puts pressure on it to crack the glass. The blade that Jim showed fits in a power head and rocks side to side to cut the glue. I have seen them but never used one and dont know if I would as I think it works to fast and would not be able to control it as needed. Dave ----

I will get out and check in a bit to see what my 16 is like. Dave ----

This was in Garner NC The show I was invited to is on May 15 in Holly Springs NC at Ting Park, 8am to 12pm check in awards at 2pm and cruise to follow ending at 5pm https://www.google.com/search?q=all+ford+car+show+holly+springs+nc&rlz=1C1KMZB_enUS571US571&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l8.414208339j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&ibp=htl;events&rciv=evn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ9pm8tKvwAhUaCc0KHVXECF8Q5bwDMAB6BAgFEAE#fpstate=tldetail&htidocid=L2F1dGhvcml0eS9ob3Jpem9uL2NsdXN0ZXJlZF9ldmVudC8yMDIxLTA1LTE1fDY1MjM2Nzg2MTk3NTM5Njk2OA%3D%3D&htivrt=events&mid=/g/11mc8v111y You might try Google for local shows or cruises in your area as there has to be something a little closer to you up there. I was thinking late last night that I did not get any pictures of anything It really did not look that bad. At the time I did not even think of taking any and dont know why? Maybe because it was the first time out since the "lock down" or having the truck out for its real first showing where people come to look at cars & trucks? Or could have been I lost my driving rights the night before, son drove my truck to / from show. DMV put my lic. "inactive" because of an issue with the medical card for my CDL (truck lic) and in NC it also kills your rights to drive a car. I hope to get this fixed in a few days but you know how local DMV can be Sorry guys on the no pictures Dave ----

If me I would not plumb it to the retard side port only the advance side port. As for carb port or manifold port for vacuum they say try it either way to see what works best for you. Dave ----

After my weekly trash run with the "garbage truck" I washed it, had not been done in months and I have had it out in the rain. I also used my compressor to blow out any dirt on the carpet and dash, cleaned the glass & wiped down the dash of dirt the air did not remove. This was in prep for a cruise I and some of the FTE NC chapter members went to now that almost 50% of the people in the state has had 1 shot and some have had 2 like the wife & I. The leader got the times off a little like 3 hours early (start at 3pm till 8pm) so we had lunch and when done cars just started to show up. A lot of cool stuff that you dont normally see was there. There were 2 late 60's bumps (style sides), a early 60's with a 90's flare bed, my 81 flare side and a nicely restored 65 Chevy C10 step side I have seen before as he is part of the leaders car club group. There was a mid 60's Ford van done up like the 70's shag wagon, something you dont see much! What was cool was someone looked like he was asking others who owned my truck as I was walking up to it. He started to walk away when I called out and he came back to talk. We went over a few things and he asked me to show up to and all Ford show on the 15th a few towns over. Its $20 to enter and it goes to help vets so I plan on going should be cool. Dave ----

Looking good there Cory. My 81 did not have a ground wire from the front to the rear either. The plate light socket (pig tail) you can get at any parts store as it is a GM 1/4 turn type deal. The pig tail has 2 wires so 1 I have power going in using a connector to remove it from the main harness and the other wire a loop to ground. IIRC the tail lights ground through the brackets to the bed sides. Remember I have a metal ribbed floor and I have a frame ground in the engine bay. BTW even the 81 style side did not have a ground wire to the front, it was done at the tail lights screwed to the bed in the light area. Dave ----

No I meant when you use the little screw to open the secondaries a little (the vacuum leak) so you can close the primary side to close the transfer slot some. Dave ----

The wire routing should not be to hard to do as you have 1 harness out of the firewall on the left side that dose the motor wiring (small harness off the main), washer pump, the IGN box that sits on the left inner fender and the left side head light & park/turn/side marker lights. The other harness comes out on the right side firewall the dose the blower motor, starter solenoid, charging (little harness to the ALT IIRC too from it) and the right side head light & park/turn/side marker lights. If you have factory AC there is another harness that comes out under the HVAC box that dose the blower motor, kicker solenoid on the carb and the compressor clutch. Again this should all fall into place that the factory ran it so may only need some of the plastic loop harness holders. As for vacuum hoses you should have a sticker on the radiator support of how they run and I would find the best way to make them look nice. Now you did not say how much of the smog stuff is still in place and if you need to left to pass a smog inspection? If you dont have smog check and a lot has been removed you can remove most of the vacuum lines. You need a line for power brakes if you have them, vacuum advance dist., PVC, air filter flapper valve and HVAC if you have factory AC. Dave ----

My AEM meter is working fine as it showed me the carb was bad LOL Now that I have gone back over the carb it is running a lot better now. I would like to lean it out just a little bit more but I hate to get in and wind out messing it up. This is on my 300 six with EFI manifolds & Y pipe with the O2 in the factory spot in the y pipe. Dave ----

You have them on the sides what keeps the welder from moving forward or back if it stops short? Any way to maybe do that same clamp deal F & R? Dave ----

As for the "briskly open the throttle" it may squirt but if you go easy like when driving you may not get it to squirt so try to move throttle easy also. The stop screw is used when the idle speed screw is turned in to much and the idle mixture screws do nothing. You would open the secondary throttle just a little (it causes a controlled vacuum leak) and you can then lower the idle speed so the mixture screws will work. FYI on a v2 carb that dose not have a secondary throttle you would need to drill small holes on the throttle blades to cause a vacuum leak. Go to big and you will never get the idle speed screw to work! On the timing I would bump it up to 10* - 12* BTDC as long as you dont get pinging. Dave ----

Just a FYI there is a tool made to cut the tape and if you dont rock or twist it you should not break the glass https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-87900-Windshield-Removal/dp/B0002SRDR8/ref=asc_df_B0002SRDR8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16873599520418132999&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009657&hvtargid=pla-568275211322&psc=1 That is what I use to cut any glass out when I need to. Dave ----