FuzzFace2

Yes we have thoughts but some may not want to hear them First know there is no way fuel can siphon out of the carb's fuel bowl as fuel comes into the top with an air gap to the supply so no way it can happen. What is happening is normal with todays gas blend, it is evaporating and happens faster when heat is added to the carb. You need to keep the carb as cool as you can and that is not easy with the heat under the hood. If you do a search on "hot start" and "hard start after sitting" you should find information. My truck can sit for a week and I just crank it a lot and pump the he11 out of the pedal till it fires up. Dave ----

I guess the seller wants to pay for his new "larger play toy" in 1 shot by selling this? Dave ----

BTW know most states DOT, if not all state you need trailer brakes on anything over 3,000 lbs and some are at 2,500 lbs. Is the truck & trailer set up for brakes? That may be your out, look up your state(s) law on that and if the truck is to big Uhaul will not rent you a transport trailer. I dont know how the 2 wheel dollies Uhaul has work for loads or if the truck will fit on one? Dont know if they have brakes or not? Dave ----

Oh I know that feeling When rebuilding my truck I replaced all the battery cables & ground wires. It had been starting good all the time for almost 2 years then like you a clunk when I turned the key. I could do this a few times, most of 3 tries, and it would crank & start. One day I cleaned the battery connections and starter relay connections and it worked good for about 4 starts and then clunk! I broke down and bought a new relay from NAPA, top of the line one as they have different levels. Since I replaced it it has started every time I turn the key. The old relay was used and dont remember if it was on my truck or the parts truck but I wasnot going to mess with used parts and hear the other parts store ones dont last and why I went top of the line NAPA. Dave ---- (watch next time I go start the truck CLUNK!)

Welcome to the forum. It will be asked where in Canada do you live as there is a members map you can be added to. We have other members up north and you would see if anyone is close by. Looks like you have your work cut out for you and you have put a good dent in the project. Dave ----

I am on the Benson & Angier line about 30 min east of Raleigh NC. I have crossed over the park way taking 10,000 gallons of LP gas from Apex NC to Sparta NC Welcome to the forum Dave ----

If the truck has been sitting for a bit the fuel in the evaporates in the carb. This is normal with today's fuel blend and all of us with carbs go thru this. The last time I used my pickup was a week ago and I have to crank it a lot to fill the carb before it would start and all I wanted to do was back it out of the garage so I could was it for a show tomorrow morning. Dave ----

Gary the negative cable(s) on the 300 six goes from battery to a blot on the top of the frame rail then to the starter bolt. This bolt also holds the positive cable from hitting the exhaust. The factory negative cable had a flag welded to the cable in the center that bolted to the frame to ground the frame. There is a 10ga wire off the block on the left side that goes to the firewall to ground the body / cab. The motor side got its ground from the transmission bolted to it and the ground cable to the top starter bolt. Mine has been wired that way from day 1 of the rebuild and other than a bad relay no problems. Dave ----

Use a stubby 1/4" drive ratch to tighten them as it will not give you much to grab to over TQ the bolts. Dont over look the rear of the intake seal between the intake & block. If this gasket is bad the oil can leak down the back of the motor and drip out the bottom looking like a bad rear main seal. Use a mirror and light to get a good look back there. Dave ----

There is a member here or that other forum that is installing a later 33 gallon Bronco tank in his 85 F150 and it has the larger opening for the sender & pump and was going to have the same issues with the gauge. His fix, yet to be put into service but looks factory, was to replace the sender / float assy. with one from the early trucks. He had a spare 16 gallon small opening sender he used for the sender / float assy. IIRC he was able to remove the sender part with the plate it is mounted to flip it and mount it to the new larger opening pump assy. Once you look at both parts you will see how each is mounted and should be easy to make the swap. The hardest part of the job I got from him was the power wire to the pump as he was going to use the electric pump as it had different ends that hook on the bottom side of the plate to the bulk head parts. The hard part was removing the wire insulation as it was like part of the wire, did not pull off like normal wire. He had to sand it off before making the connection. The other part was finding something to cover the area of the connection that todays gas would not hurt. I dont remember what he used now but he said he soaked it in gas for a few days and it was still good where other melted and turned to goo! Will see if I can find his (Tarheel Blue) post and add a link. Here it is https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/95-FDM-for-your-85-gauge-td105086.html Dave ----

That is the same thing he is looking to do. If you did not post that he is reading your mind Dave ----

Gary that is good to know as we did talk a little about this and Kurt was thinking just 1 regulator with a return would work. I bet he will read this and change his plans as needed. What is your plans when you go to EFI? Not run the regulators as I don't think they would be needed? Dave ----

I seen Kurt's pump /sender in person yesterday and got to tell you it looks factory and should work as good. He is using this EFI pump assy. because down the road he wants to go EFI and no need to go back in and redo this if he is there now. He also wants it to work with the Carter YFA carb till he dose the EFI swap. He is working on mounting the Bronco tank and rounding up cross members to do so. Being the tank is shorter front / rear than the pick up tanks he cant use pick up parts with out modding them. I think he is looking for the front tank cross member for a rear mounted pick up truck tank as that looks to be able to be used. The rear cross member I think a angle iron drilled and bolted to the frame to mount the rear of the Bronco tank should work. As said it is all factory parts just not from the same years and I dint have a problem with that. Then again by the time anyone gets my truck or any of ours what parts will they be able to get for them? My guess they will have to "rig up" something to make it work. As for "linear" when I added the custom gauges to my 70 AMC Javelin that was the issue with the fuel gauge sender. IIRC they had the ohm readings for the sender and I had them set the gauge to read full / half / empty with 5 gallons in the tank. I was more worried about the empty reading than the others and so what if they did not track right I just did not want to run out of gas with the gauge showing 1/4 tank. I will be following this set up. Dave ----

IIRC I had one do the same now if I can remember the copper washer Dia. was to large to fit into the recess of the caliper. It looked close and can be over looked till you have a leak like this. I dont remember what I did to fix it but I want to say I re-used the old washer and no more leak. Dave ----

Good to hear you found a gas door that is what is so nice of this site. BTW the door is not flat it is bowed a little The bottom dark door is for a flare side, the top light color door is from a style side and you car see they are different. The size is also different the style side being a little smaller up & down. The bolt mounting holes are also different Being the mounting holes are different the plastic "box" behind is also different to match the holes. Thought because its a fuel / gas door thought is best to put this in here if someone is looking for this info. I also think but not 100% sure the "finger holes" changed from the bed to the door over the years so might need to check that if someone is looking for gas door parts. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum. Nice looking truck I like the colors When going over the pictures I get down to the one of it taped up and painted red / white and was like "WTH thats my truck"! then looked closer and it had too many doors LOL I like the color combo and the little red pin stripe on the bottom color line. I was thinking of doing the same thing top & bottom but after 4 years of the body off frame rebuild I just wanted it painted! Someone asked who did all the work on your truck and I am guessing you did? If so you should get a plate like this People dont believe me when I say I did all the work, even the paint, I now carry a photo book showing the work start to finish. Dave ----

Thanks guys when I have some "ME TIME" and on my PC I will check out the step by step info. My question was: Can I used the slider door latches with the push / pull pin rod / lock? I thought the pin would work backwards, push to lock, pull to unlock? I think what you were trying to do was use the slider lock / rod with pin latches and would not work? Then again being I cant get the slider door panels or the slider locks I might just swap everything over to the pin type parts? Dave ----

I do follow all the older year truck to see what they are doing and to get ideals. What I meant by what I said was this CV swap is mostly done on the pre 80's trucks as the frames where CV suspension bolts to is flat unlike ours. If you do a Google and YouTube search on CV swaps see what comes up, almost none if any for the 80+ trucks. Now that not to say it has not been done just not as many as the older trucks. Dave ----

That did not last long as it's gone! Dave ----

Thanks for the reply When I am on my pc with bigger screen I will check it out again. Thanks again Dave ----

As said looks really good It had to be hard to cut the body for the rear flares after all the work putting the body together. I saw a post if you were going to cut them or not but dont remember the answer now I know. Dave ----

Looks good Only thing I question is "I’m using the 4AN PTFE lines for my brakes, too." Do they say it is ok to use for brakes? The fluid will not hurt it and the big one with "make your fittings" is will they hold up to the high pressure the brake system puts out? I hear the brake system can get into the 1000's of PSI and why I ask. Also some of the line not made for brakes like to balloon up making the pedal spongy. That is a big thing when guys replace the rubber lines with non-brake flex lines. The flex lines are braided and have crimped on fittings. Just a FYI Dave ----

That fall apart in your hands thats what happened to the one I installed in my truck. Went to top it off and it came out about half way up, right where the level was! Are any of them sealed between the 2 sides? Maybe take your scope to the junk yard and give a look see on the newer ones and go from there, get new or used if you have to mod to seal. Dave ---- ps, easy fix is dont go so crazy off road

You say "The threads in the radiator are reported to be 1/4-18 NPT per Champion's site." and as far as I know the fitting on the radiator should be a flare fitting not a NPT. NPT is a pipe thread and will never take a flare type fitting. I also have not known of NPT to be listed as 1/4-18 it would be marked 1/4 NPT. Maybe post up what the line(s) look like and the radiator side the lines go into. If the radiator dose not have the flare part then you may need to get an adapter from the NPT to flare of the right size, 1/4"? Dave ----

That's a good question. I have theorized about bad gas causing my issues. I forgot to mention that I changed the filter in the reservoir a few weeks ago. It was the original filter. That didn't really fix any issues, either. I'm betting it sat for probably close to nine to twelve months based on the number of dirt dauber nests I found in the engine bay. Its good you replaced the filter but you were still pulling and running on old gas and today's gas dose not last long. How much gas is in the tank right now? It may not be the only thing causing your problem but something to think about. Dave ----