FuzzFace2

I am with Gary and I know other have installed new tanks and never "sealed" before install and had no issues. Now if you want to coat / paint the outside then I can see needing to "prep" for the product to stick. That open hole can you take a picture of it but my guess it is the hole for the roll over valve. Dave ----

If you don't have that ground that may be the problem. I just checked the 1980 EVTM and it shows G701 used pretty much as it is in the later trucks. But instead of the EVTM saying it is on the firewall ahead of the radio it says it is "In harness attached to "Y" brace." So you are supposed to have a G701. And it is supposed to be grounded. As for when the change was made from it being attached to the "Y" brace vs the firewall, apparently that was during the 1981 production as the '81 EVTM says it is on the firewall. And we all know the Ford books are 100% right It has been a wile that I did the dash / harness work but what ever wires went to ground it was put back I just dont remember anything there Being it is just the dash turn signal lights when the AC compressor cycles I am not too worried ATM. Thanks Dave ----

Its hard work but you are doing a great job. Dave ----

Dave ----

Yep that's the one If you look close you can see a load of cardboard ready for the "trash run" think the trash was under it. I also used the truck to pick up a raised flower bed for the wife, I use it! They are doing work next door at work and the trucks going in & out have tracked clay down the street. Wouldn't you know Friday just as I was ready to leave they sent the water truck down the street to "wash" the road. They did not do a good job and I had to drive over it and yep it got on the truck even going slow. I should wash it but its not too bad. Dave ----

If the model glue did not work I dont think I would wast my time on fixing them I would get new ones and be done with it. I was looking to maybe replace mine and why I know you can get them. I just dont know what colors they come in as there is yellow & clear. What shape are the side markers in? I bought new front ones for my truck think through LMC. Dave ----

Try a 4 year cab off frame rebuild! I built it as a (vary nice) driver. I dont really like taking the truck out in the rain, most of what we get here even in winter, as it gets dirty and harder to wash and in winter colder! If I take it to work or out for dinner and it rains oh well. I am careful of what I put in the bed not to hurt the tail gate or the painted sides, floor has bed liner. Going to load up the weekly trash for the dump in a few. Tomorrow I am going to load up 2 or 3 canopies and my car show chairs for a gathering for pets we volunteer / foster for. I also used the truck to / from work last week 370+/- miles. Got to enjoy it wile you can Dave ----

Dig out as much of the old seam sealer you can so you can get what ever you use down in there. The hard part for me, I did not have holes, was working through the cowl opening as you need to do that side also. Mine only had the seam sealer flaking off so I got the loose stuff off and got some brushable seam sealer to get it sealed like factory. I then used the spray Flex Seal (clear) to go over that. I used a plastic straw from carb cleaner on the can so I could get it in areas that needed it. I cant remember if I painted in the cowl area but think I did when I painted the firewall. Dave ----

Besides the PSI between the 2 different pumps the GPM are also different. Is that because of the PSI they are tested at or was the PSI because of the GPM they tried to force through the pump? Makes you think dont it BTW I am running the Sag pump on my truck but it came on the motor and I did not have the brackets for the CII pump that was sitting on the inner finder of the parts truck for the 300 motor. Dave ----

Not on the early trucks. The harness is from 02/81 installed in the body of 11/80 truck and dose not have that firewall ground. The only lights I can see that dimly blink / flash are the dash TURN lights, nothing else I can see dimly blink / flash. The turn signal & 4 ways still work when this is happening. Factory grounds in place. Battery cable to top of frame rail and then on to the top starter bolt. 10 ga wire from engine to firewall, cab / body ground. Think I put the fire wall to hood wire back. I think I also ran a wire from the battery cable to the inner fender because it was there on the new cable. Being a early flare side I dont have the ground wire in the harness to the tail lights and they are grounded to the frame. All electrical works since day 1 even back up lights and inside cab lights. The other thing is I am running LED bulbs in the dash cluster and wonder if that plays into it? I would think it would be all dash lights and not ONLY the TURN lights? The noise is the compressor as it is noisy but with all going on and it short cycling it was hard to pin point it till yesterday. I think the short cycling was because it was cool, fan on low and the temp turned up to half and it could also be a little low on charge? Now that I know what is happening, AC compressor short cycling, I am not to worried about it at this time. Thanks for the help Dave ----

I would think that but I have all the factory grounds in place and they were cleaned of paint before I put them in place when rebuilding the truck. Battery cable to frame rail then to top starter bolt. there is a 10 ga wire from the block to the fire wall. Think I put the wire from the fire wall to the hood like factory and the new battery cable had a wire off it I ran to the fender just in case. Every thing on the truck electrical wise works as it should from day 1. Being a flare side and a early model it dose not have a ground wire for the tail lights up to the fire wall like the later ones do so the tail lights ground to the frame and have also worked since day 1, even the back up lights. The compressor has its own ground I think to the motor, have to look as I dont remember now but the clutch has 2 wires, power & ground. It has a new clutch as the old one stopped working and the gap is set right as per the book. I will have to see if turning on & off the AC makes the dash lights dimly blink / flash now that I know 1 of the causes. Also being I now know I may not rush in to this farther, put off what you can till it breaks I just thought of something when filling in something above. All my dash lights have been replaced with LED bulbs, wonder if that plays into this? No I am not going to swap in normal bulbs to test, to much work and I am lazy Dave ----

Plus shipping but if you want speed control and trying to find the factory parts is a no go. They do make other after market kits but go for more money than that. Sorry to say I did not get it Dave ----

A while back I posted I think in my build thread about this. Back ground at O-dark thirty going to work the dash turn signal lights would dimly blink / flash. At the same time the motor felt link it sputtered and would hear something like a electric zap. At first I thought it was the ICM as it was leaking it's guts running down the inner fender and onto the garage floor. I replaced it with top of the line NAPA one. A little while later it did the same thing so it was not the ICM but did not know what it could be? Well today again at O-dark thirty going to work the dash turn signal lights started dimly blink / flash again. Unlike before when I got off the high way, the only place it would happen, it happened on a road I could go slower. Well I am sure I found what was happening and but know why the lights would blink? The AC compressor was kicking on and off. This would cause the motor to sputter as it turned on & off, look at how much power it pulls from the motor just to run it. The same goes for the noise as the compressor makes, the zap noise. What I cant figure out is why the the dash turn signal lights blink / flash dimly? Now I think why it stopped for a bit was 2 reasons. 1 it was hotter out, the AC was on full so it did not turn on / off. 2 I think I added a little more charge to the system. Since then I had a leak and when recharged it did not get a full charge, in the 40's on the low side where it should be mid 50's low side. Also the OAT was cool but humid so I had the AC on normal but the temp up about half waybecause it was blowing to cold, so the compressor I could see turning on / off. So why the dash turn lights blinking / flashing dimly? Dave ----

18.4 is pretty good in my book as I have a hard time keeping mine in the 15 MPG range. Dave ----

I have only been to 2 shows, 1 you paid a fee and other people choice, that handed out prizes. The others I have gone to are Cars & Coffee where you show & share with other gear heads. I never go looking to win anything but did at my first show, the paid one. 2 weeks ago I volunteered at the club that has let me tag along to other car outings with them and had a look at the judging sheet just to get an ideal what they look for / at. I did ask if other clubs use the same sheets or things they judge and they did not know. I would like to see if I can look at or get sheets from other clubs just so I know what they are looking at. BTW yes hood up, if you have a car with a truck it should be open also or loos points. The sheet I saw they gave points for jack & lug wrench, if you had a display of any type. I have a photo book of the rebuild and a 1 page description of the truck & mods I did as you cant see them unless you know the trucks. Models, stuff toys and like what I have are all displays. As for them really nice looking cars on either side how often do they drive them? If it is like 1 guy I talked to at the paid show he only takes the truck out for shows after dusting it off before. After the shows he stops for gas on the way home and back in the garage. His words "I dont enjoy the truck like I did before all the work". I had more miles on my truck in 2 years than he had in 5 years since his truck was finished, it was a vary pretty truck. The other thing that shocks people is that "I" did all the frame off rebuild work, not many can say they have done the work to their rides. Go to shows to share and talk with other gear heads. Dave ----

So with that fix it makes the valve train adjustable right? If so why not adjust them when running? Back the nut off till you get a little noise, tighten the nut till it just stops making noise and then go 1/4 to no more than 1/2 a turn tighter. Dave ----

Nice pictures and the truck's not bad either Dave ----

Nice looking truck What motor and transmission dose it have? Short bed and dual tanks I like it. Dave ----

The choke may need a little adjusting but first I need to ask. If sitting over night or 1 day how many times are you pumping the pedal before trying to start it? Also how cold has it been when trying to start it? I would say if the temp has been say 70*f and you are only pumping it 1 full to the floor and let up try 2 pumps and maybe 3 then nold the pedal down just a little. The colder it is the more pumps but I would not think it should need 3 pumps. If that dose nothing even with 3 pumps and a little throttle then you need to check both the choke and if the throttle is squirting fuel when moved. If it is not squirting that needs to be fixed first then if it still is hard to start the choke. If it has been sitting for a week where you know you have to crank it a lot I crank it and keep pumping the pedal as fast as I can till it fires up. I will stop after a few seconds for the starter to cool off then do it again till it is running. My truck only needs 1 pump when it sits overnight in a warm garage and maybe 2 pumps when cold out and it sits at work for 12+ hours. I grew up with carbs and many different make cars, trucks and motors so this is nothing new to me. Thing is you just need to find what your truck need to fire up. Dave ----

Is it if you are looking for speed control I dont think it would look any worst than a dealer installed unit in my book. Dave ----

Currently helping a neighbor diagnose a crank, but no fire situation on his 1994 Ranger. Getting 40lbs pressure and fuel at the rail, and spark tester shows a dim light so tomorrow I'll be looking into the ignition control module. I swapped the coils around (8-plug 2.3) and no change, but I'll double check them as well while I'm at it. Yesterday I used the truck for the first time in a week to do the weekly trash run in my "garbage truck" LOL Well the AC was not working, it did last week, and the compressor was going on & off a sign of low charge. A few weeks before I topped off the system as it was a little low from the last fix. I was pissed so all I did was a quick look under the hood and left it. My son took a look and found when I topped it off I added 134a fitting adapters and 1 of them was loose He tightened it up, cleaned it and used a little sealer then added 2 cans and said it is bolwing cool again but may need 1 more can. I cant win with this AC system, this is like the 3rd time I needed to re-charge it I hope this is the last. Because they are talking rain here over the weekend the show I was going to Saturday has been called off till next April Dave ----

I dont know if you can pull the trans (R&R) and send it out for a rebuild. Check with near by shops what they get to rebuild the trans if you bring in just the trans. Then it is just the $$$ for the parts and the labor to bench rebuild it. A lot of the $$ is the R&R out of the car / truck. Dave ----

Nice job ......... only 11 more to do Dave ----

I ran mine off a small gas can set up on the inner fender well so I could move it under its own power when needed, like to clean the shop floor after doing body work for the day. I see something that might help you and others with the drive shaft U joints. As soon as you pull the drive shaft and you plan on re-using it wrap masking tape around the joint to keep the caps & roller pins in place till you re-install it. I take the tape under the car or truck to tape them ASAP. If I do not have tape I use a shop rag and wrap / tie it to hold the caps. Truck is looking good Dave ----

If the lines does drain back to the tank, I cant see all the fuel in the line doing this but maybe some of it. If there is fuel in the carb bowl it should fire right up and the pump would then pull the fuel from the tank. What happens when sitting a few day and more the fuel in the carb evaporates and why you need to crank and pump the throttle till fuel fills the bowl. If it sits over night it should start with a pump of the throttle or 2 and fire up and run if the choke is adjusted right. As said mine may sit for a week between trash runs and I will need to crank it a lot before it fires up. Once running I dont need to let it warm up but I also have a stick trans and the choke is adjusted pretty good. If mine is started / driven every day just 1 pump, tap the key and it is running. Dave ----