FuzzFace2

I dont have any of it installed in the truck but here is mine. I used Velcro to hold it to the back wall other wise it would move with every start & stop. IIRC that was how it was fasten in my parts truck and it rolled over and was still in place. Dave ----

From what I seen posted the early years of the 80 - 86 trucks were blue and the later years gray. The motor in my 1981 truck, not the motor the truck left the factory with, was gray and did not like that color so did it in blue also. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum from another 300/NP435 flare side owner. Dave ----

I dont know who you tried for the parts but I have used https://www.thegearbox.org/home.html for WC T5 parts for another project. Dave ----

I used the factory washers when I went to EFI manifolds. I also went with threaded studs over the factory bolts. Only issue I ran into was the intake manifold dropped to low and caused a vacuum leak I just had to raise it up and been fine for 2 years now. Dave ----

Its been 2+ years since I messed with this as part of the final rebuild. I dont remember that plastic part going in the slot. I will not have time to check into this till maybe the weekend. I will see if I can check it on my truck but I remember 1 of the moldings is not held on really good and it might be that bottom one? I have my parts truck molding somewhere and see if I can find them bottom clips and mock them up on what is left of the parts truck cab if I can make heads or tails of how it works. Dave ----

Guessing that is for a style side bed non-dual wheel truck? Dave ----

I was just being a little as I knew the ones shown were not for the FS I dont remember where I got mine from maybe LMC? I did have to use weather strip glue to hold the rubber strips, that is all they are, in. And if you are looking for something for the chains I used a bike tire tube cut to size. I have enough left over to do 3 more pairs LOL I added a hole at the bottom for water to drain out. Dave ----

Welcome Another flare side owner as Gary asked "where's home" so you can be added to the map and you can then see if there are any other members close by. Once you are "let in" Post in the main area or better under projects and we can help answer questions you have. BTW mine also has a 300 six and a 4sp, granny first gear, as they did have a 3sp with 4th being over drive, what transmission do you have? edit I forgot nice looking truck Dave ----

Your welcome glad to help before you went through what I did That is why I know first hand you cant mix n match the 2 systems that way. Unless you were to swap the whole front suspension the larger WBP will not happen As for the rear I dont know if you can just swap axle shafts to the larger WBP or if the backing plates need to be swapped also? Now that I think of it the larger WBP also has larger shoes so the backing plate would most likely need to be swapped too. So yes KISS would be the best route and just get the smaller WBP wheels. Dave ----

Yea the Ford parts info may not say but the on line parts stores do for the most part and what I went by. Look up each part for each truck on many sites taking down part numbers and sizes to compare to make sure it would work before jumping of just bolting on the booster / master. I think it works as the truck stops and at time pretty quickly when needed! One thing I just now thought of what master / booster is used with the larger brake parts like on my truck? I am sure they had power brakes with the larger brakes and at some point I may look deeper into it. Dont fix what aint broke Dave ----

I have a paid show tomorrow the next town over just going to have fun and be with car people Dave ----

On a non-Ford (AMC) the out put shaft was different so it used a different pitman arm. I want to say the power had the larger shaft. That car used a rubber "rag joint" and the same was true on the input shafts, power was larger but the wheel side of the shaft was the same between them. I cant see Ford being any different? Being the box has play you will need to replace it and the box store rebuilt one will be just as bad so dont waste your time getting one from them. I have a Red Head box in mine and love it. The other would be Blue Top. Red was cheaper and in stock when I did mine. I cant say on the pump if the box store ones are worth it or not but I think that is the way I would go, Red or Blue and rebuilt pump. Dave ----

different brake calipers, and different rear brake cylinders. I knew the calipers were different but I did not know the rear wheel cyl were Then again I may have only looked up the bore size of both the not the part numbers? Thinking if the bore sizes between all parts, power & non-power, were the same I would be ok to use the power brake booster & master with the manual brake parts at the wheels:nabble_anim_crazy: Dave ----

Did you not post it or it's not listed, but I don't see any for a flare side Dave ----

You may want to re-check all the part numbers. I cant remember if the bearings & races inner / outer are the same between the 2 sizes and same with the seal as I did not get that far with a swap when it all fell apart. Back ground I had 2 - 1981 trucks to make 1 good truck. The truck I wanted to put on the road had the large WBP (wheel bolt pattern) of 5.5 x 5 The parts truck had the small WBP 4.5 x 5 The road truck had frozen king pins so the plan was to take the front suspension from the parts truck and bolt it in to the road truck. Once it was in and I wanted to roll the truck around is when I found out about the WBP. I did not have wheels that fit the small WBP so I went to install my after market wheels and would not fit. My plan was to swap rotors so I could use the wheels I had but then found out the rotors did not fit the spindles. IIRC there was a off set and the rotor hit the brake caliper mount. That is when I did more digging and found the kingpins are different sizes so I could not swap spindles to the beams. So I had to use my old frozen kingpin beams & spindles after new kingpins. With the beams and spindles for the large WBP bolted in the truck I was going to use the parts truck calipers as I was going to use the the power booster from the parts truck. That is when I found the calipers are different between the 2 trucks and why I say check the part numbers again. Oh the front brake pads are different between the 2 trucks too. So in short what I found is from the beams on out to the tip of the spindles are totally different between the 2 WBP and no parts inter-change between them. You can swap the whole suspension as it will bolt in. It may not be what you wanted to hear but its what I found with my project. If you need more information let me know. Dave ---- BTW the rear drum brakes are also different sizes between the WBP. IIRC the front pads and rear drums are larger on the 5.5 x 5 WBP Now in my checking of the brake system to change from manual (5.5 x 5 WBP) brakes to power (4.5. x 5 WBP) the caliper piston sizes, the wheel cyl sizes as was the master cyl bore sizes were all the same sizes between the trucks. I did not check on the stroke between the 2 masters the brakes work. The brake pedals are different between them. Where the master rod hooks to is at a different distance from the pivot so I had to swap in the power brake pedal when I did the power booster for power brakes. Dave ----

You may want to re-check all the part numbers. I cant remember if the bearings & races inner / outer are the same between the 2 sizes and same with the seal as I did not get that far with a swap when it all fell apart. Back ground I had 2 - 1981 trucks to make 1 good truck. The truck I wanted to put on the road had the large WBP (wheel bolt pattern) of 5.5 x 5 The parts truck had the small WBP 4.5 x 5 The road truck had frozen king pins so the plan was to take the front suspension from the parts truck and bolt it in to the road truck. Once it was in and I wanted to roll the truck around is when I found out about the WBP. I did not have wheels that fit the small WBP so I went to install my after market wheels and would not fit. My plan was to swap rotors so I could use the wheels I had but then found out the rotors did not fit the spindles. IIRC there was a off set and the rotor hit the brake caliper mount. That is when I did more digging and found the kingpins are different sizes so I could not swap spindles to the beams. So I had to use my old frozen kingpin beams & spindles after new kingpins. With the beams and spindles for the large WBP bolted in the truck I was going to use the parts truck calipers as I was going to use the the power booster from the parts truck. That is when I found the calipers are different between the 2 trucks and why I say check the part numbers again. Oh the front brake pads are different between the 2 trucks too. So in short what I found is from the beams on out to the tip of the spindles are totally different between the 2 WBP and no parts inter-change between them. You can swap the whole suspension as it will bolt in. It may not be what you wanted to hear but its what I found with my project. If you need more information let me know. Dave ----

Yep just like that as he asked or said he had to look into how it was wired. I think before I would call that starter warn out at just, what was it 150K+ miles? The next time it is slow cranking when hot pull the coil wire from the cap and ground it and see if it cranks at normal speed. If so its a timing issue, if still slow then starter. BTW 1 got 255k+ on the starter in my 02 Dodge and it still works great. Dave ----

I am with Gary that not all carb cleaner is made the same and why I go for the non-planet safe stuff. Now if you find nothing really works what if you try and back it off / out? I dont think most of us have ovens in our garages and you dont want it in the house oven. It will stink the oven & house and really piss off the wife. So how about the grille you cook your burgers & dogs on? Full tank of gas and let it cook! Dave ----

Sunday I put about 70 miles on the truck running back n forth a few towns away for a fund raiser for the pet foster group we are members of. I had 3 canopies and some folding chairs they needed to use. I have a show Saturday next town over, its the next street over from where I bought the body supplies & paint for the truck, that is if I dont have to work. Before I used the truck Sunday I gave it a quick wash so I will not use it this week before the show if I can help it. As for use or not and how fast it rusts I think it depends where you live and when it is driven. I had a car that went into inside (non-heated) storage just before Halloween because of egging and did not come out till after the snow season (April) was gone. I would use it a little on the street then went on the car trailer to go drag racing on weekends. I would wash the tow truck & car the night before, to to the track 2+ hours 1 way, race and 2+ hours back. It then sat till the next weekend to do it all over again. There is not a lot left of the car, a lot of rust. I think this is because water would sit in the body panels and do its thing. If you wash your car or truck and then drive it every day the air moves around to dry it out. On my truck the only really place the water can sit is in the doors and I know the drains arebig and open and I drive it right after its washed. It is also a lot hotter down here and that helps bake any water that may be hiding so I fell better it will not rust here like thecar did. Just my .02 Dave ----

I am with Gary and I know other have installed new tanks and never "sealed" before install and had no issues. This is music to my ears. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n106202/IMG_0660.jpg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n106202/IMG_0661.jpg The nice part about the aft tank is it is made in Canada. Didn't check where the mid tank is from. The hole I was most concerned about was the one for the fuel pump/sender, which is the large one. The bottom photo shows the fuel-fill hose connection and there is a "pipe" just inside. It is very difficult to feed the siphon hose into the tank and this is why. Still have gas to remove and siphon out. That inner part is what hods the plastic vent hose. There is one at the top inthe filler neck to hold the other end. How much fuel is in the tank? You have electric pumps in the tank? Why not feed that into a container and just the relay out so the pump run to empty the tank? Its so easy its hard Dave ----

You haven't replaced the DSII module with an aftermarket one, have you? I installed a PMGR starter on my 1980 when I built (or rebuilt?) it. It was a starter I snagged off a 1996 F150 at the junkyard a couple years prior...a fairly fresh Napa reman unit, so I grabbed it as a spare for the '84, and then didn't install it until I needed one for the 1980. The only downside I would note is the installation of a non-original part, and somewhere, someday years from now, when somebody else orders a new starter, they might get a surprise when/if they try to connect that large live lead to a non PMGR starter...lol. As Cory pointed out and someone on that other forum the later factory PMGR starter would be the way to go for off the shelf parts when needed. As for the re-wire it is cake! Move the large cable that goes to the starter at the relay over to the other side of relay with the battery cable. That cable goes to the large lug on the PMGR starter/ Then run a 10 ga wire from the now open large lug on the relay and put that on the small lug of the PMGR starter. The relay now is not running mega power through it and you could run a cheap one but I would not. Dave ----

On the 2 new trucks I bought I also ask not to have stickers put on but they did put plate frames on and on the Dodge they put their hitch plug on and I was ok with that. Now on the pickup the rear flat glass had stickers on it so I left them other than the NRA, wife had me remove it and I was not happy. I did put that other forum sticker on the glass. I should send in my request for this sites one. Dave ----

I was a kid when I went pheasant hunting with the shooting club I was a member of for small bore target shooting. I dont even remember the ga. shot gun I used? The older members that hunted would bring their dogs out for the hunt for all the kid members. When not on the hunt we shot skeet. It was a lot of fun. I think some dogs were still in training as I remember some of them chasing the birds and everyone yelling not to shoot! We have a Black & tan coon hound / lab mix. She has a nose and I love to watch her "work" when I throw some in out in the yard. But a gun shot, fire works and thunder and she is in your lap, 70 lb dog, shaking like crazy. I dont hunt so I am not even going to try and get her to not hide LOL Dave ----

Welcome to the forum. Do you have any paper work, title for the truck? If so the VIN would be an that and with the VIN you can get a report of how the truck left the factory. I think just a good cleaning it would look a lot better. Dave ----