FuzzFace2

If you have gas leaking out between the throttle shaft & carb base plate a rebuild kit will not fix this. There is wear on the shaft and / or base plate and I see this as something beyond the normal person. Even I would not try to fix as bushings would need to be installed and the shaft turned and if you dont get the blades back in the same place you can have even more issues with the throttle sticking. Then add a choke not working right I would look into a new carb. I did not say rebuilt as rebuilds may have the same issues with the throttle shaft. So a 302 with a stick so you dont have to play with auto kick down linkage and that is good. Check with local parts stores and Rock Auto for new carbs and prices. If you dont have smog check you may want to look into Holley 2300 carb. It comes as a 350 CFM and a 500 CFM and should be a bolt on to your intake. You will have to deal with the gas line as it may feed differently and hooking up the throttle cable, may need a ball it snaps on to on the carb. I have a 500 CFM on a AMC 304 to replace a Motorcraft carb and it was the best thing I did to the car. With a new carb the choke should work,may need a little adjusting, and no more gas leak at the throttle shaft and should run a lot better. Dave ----

Me too. I could not test it this morning as I left the truck at work and brought home the work truck with a load that had to be delivered at 7am 3 hours away. It also was still to warm buts Temps are dropping. Dave ----

Weren't some of the heads tapped for 7/16 threads but the bolt he has 3/8 thread? I w ant to say Ford used a insert to change thread sizes? Dave ----

I was wondering if NC used a different plate in 1981 but never really looked that much into it. If you dont mind could you post up that 81 plate? I do under stand if you dont want to just like to see what one looks like. Dave ----

Kurt, I have not looked over either of the links but what you posted the "B" sounds like the way to go. Now for the other On a diesel how is the glow plugs set up to run XX amount of time? I never looked into that when I had my diesel only if the plugs were getting power. Not that it helps you but the diesel used a temp sensor so the glow plugs would not turn on when warm / hot. So anyone know how the glow plug timer works? As Gary said being you are starting with a carb. the only time you would need to prime / fill the bowl is if it sat for a bit, I find about 1 week in the summer / hot out that you may need to prime / fill the bowl. What EFI system are you looking at and how do they "prime" the fuel system? Any way to find that out? Dave ----

I did a parade yesterday with a few of the car club members a few towns over. With the windows down on the ride home I did not hear anything from the tail pipe so I dont really know if it sounds different or not? Today I looked into the choke and why it was staying on when it was 27*f and took a long time to open if at 45*f. Any thing above 45*f the choke works pretty good. I moved the cold air side of the hot air tube in closer to the motor / manifolds. I also wrapped header wrap around the manifold & copper tube to help it get more heat as I am sure why the choke was not opening when 27* and was slow at below 45*. I know the choke cap is getting heat from the electric side as it got hot. The hot air tube is also getting hot and a good temp now. Thing is it was about 70* out and I dont know when it will be cold again to give the choke a good test? I changed out the oil psi sender as it stopped working a week ago, all good now. I wanted to swap the temp switch? in the air filter so I could get the flapper in the snorkel to open when cold to maybe pull warm air into the carb but found the flapper valve is no good, I have vacuum to the valve. When I had the air filter apart it was full of milk shake The PVC was working but I did not get any suction on the fresh air side of the system I did not have any blow by that I saw but that would be why I have a milk shake in the dip stick tube and oil fill cap. I washed the breather but need to replace the air filter and want to replace the PVC. Till the air filter is replaced I cant do anything with making it run leaner. with out the filter at idle I had AFR of about 15 and with filter down to low 13's But the truck looks pretty Dave ----

There might be and I meant to look to see what all is in the box as I have yet to do that But I have an up date: I spent some time on the choke today. I wanted to swap the temp sensor in the air filter that works the snout hot air valve. I did that but I think the valve is no good as I have vacuum at the valve I routed the cold air side of the hot air asst. in close to the motor & manifolds. I think with it kind of out it the open it was getting too cold and any heat picked up after that point was just not enough. I was going to add to the copper and make a few more loops around the exh manifold but I did not have a good way to join more tubing to what was on the truck but .......... I picked up header wrap the other day and wrapped 7.5 feet of 15 feet around the manifold and tubing. I can tell you the hot air tube dose get HOT at the choke so I am happy on that. In testing the tube was getting hot and so was the electric cap as I could feel that getting hot so both are working as they should. I also know the choke is opening all the way even before I started the mods as I had the air filter off as I was checking for oil leak after I changed the oil PSI sender. It was also 70*f out and the choked worked good if the temp was above 45*f, I just dont know when it may get below that temp again for testing? So till it gets cold again I will be using the truck as it is now. Dave ----

Yep thats what I did. Off the truck, test fit and fix why it will not sit right. I may have drilled the 4 holes at the defrost after it was glued on from the back side. Dave ----

No, mine is on a 5.0 with ceramic coated Tri-Y headers. I think the copper tubing out in the open may also be part of your problem. Copper heats up fast, but it also loses heat faster than aluminum. The [aluminum] choke stove "dome" in the kit will help the copper tubing retain heat. And the insulated hot air tube sleeve will help keep it hot until it reaches the choke cap. I do have the insulated sleeve on the hot side of the tube. Think one of the pictures shows it. When I was checking it fast the last time it was pulling a vacuum it just took a long time for the heat to reach the choke. I did buy some header wrap the other day but I have to check into this more. I did lean it out last time and that helped a little but it also got warm. Tomorrow its going to be the last day in the 70's before getting cool again (50's & 60's) for the next week so I dont know if I do anything will help when it gets down below 45*? Dave ----

I think I got mine from harbor freight but I cant find it on the site? I also dont know if its marked who makes it. I am onthe high side of 260# and I feel it is safe for me. The other day it took me 10 min to find it, it folds up and it was tucked away and hard to see. Dave ----

When I was putting my truck back together I did replace the 2 sending units. As you would know a few months after the truck was on the road the rear tank sender stop working. The new float sunk so I used the old sender float and been good for 2 years now. I did not replace my fill hoses but then again they dont make the rear one for my truck as it never came with a rear tank. As you would know it that is the one the leaks when filing Some day I will look into fixing it. Dave ----

I built mine through https://www.buildasign.com/license-plates Dave ----

As for priming what dose it on our year EFI trucks? I thought it was getting a signal from the computer when the key was turned on and that cant happen with you (yet?). Why not pick up the power when cranking at the solenoid / relay on the fender? It would be getting power as soon and you started turning the motor over where the PSI switch would not send power to it till the oil PSI came up to close the switch. Now I said yet? do we know how the after market EFI system deals with this? Dose it's computer do this like the factory one does? Have you looked into how that system gets wired and maybe you can use most of it with a jumper or 2 to work with the carb till then? Then pull the jumpers and wire it like the EFI system wants? Sorry if I am throwing a wrench into the gears Dave ----

You have to watch as the openings maybe off set between motors. This I think was for a 90's truck with a 300 six that I found was close to the one I needed for my 81 F100 with a 300. I had to trim about a 1/4" off each side for it to sit down on the core. I would say stay with a v8 shroud so the opening stays some what where it needs to be. Dave ----

I had 2 pads to work with and took the worst to try and fix, like 3 times as nothing I tried would fill the cracks and sand smooth the way I liked. I picked up a cover and on test fits thought it best to remove some of the edging that would show. That was a BIG mistake as the cover did not fit or look right. I have bought the fiber glass rosin and fleece blanket to recover it like on YouTube just have not gotten to it yet. I ended up putting the cover on the other pad and like Gary said did in off the truck and used clamps & heavy things to push it into place. I am pretty sure I used the RTV that came with it and so far no issues. I did wash the old pad many times before I installed the cover. I then used SEM paint and painted it to match the rest of the panels inside the truck. I think it came out pretty good. Dave ----

I will see if I can post a video will have to see if there is a "how to" on it. Yes I did take it out today. First outing was the weekly trash run. You only hear (inside) a little deeper note nothing big. A few of us in the car club I am a member of went a few towns over for a parade we put our cars / truck in. Antlers & red nose on the truck and a Santa's for me. With my gray beard the little kids thought I was Santa LOL There were a few that yelled nice truck. Driving from the parade to lunch then home I had the windows open and I did not hear anything different than with the windows up on the noise. Cant say what it sounds like on a drive by? Maybe I will have my son do that so I can hear? Other wise I am happy as I cant have it to loud when I leave for work at 12am to 3am at times. Dave ----

I replaced the exh system on my truck today. The round muffler inlet pipe was pulling out of the body and why I replaced it. I could have just replace the muffle with same and been done in no time. I am running EFI manifolds with Y pipe no cat. The factory pipes are 2" and the Y pipe is 2-1/4" So I went with 94 system as it is 2-1/4" but went with a performance muffler. I had to make some mods like the hangers on the tail pipe, I cut them off. At idle I got to say it dose not sound like a six but more like a SB. I have not taken it for a drive yet but I think it will sound pretty good. Dave ----

Wow July was the last up day ..... what a slacker On the turn dash lights flickering, only see it in the dark, I found when it happens but I have not looked into why? It happens when the AC compressor kicks on and off a bunch of times after each other. The outside temp is not too hot but need the AC on so fan is on low and the temp control cut back some. If the compressor was to stay on like when really hot out and fan on full and the compressor stays on there is no issues? I am not going to look into this deeper for now. Most of the summer I was hitting some of the local cars & coffee meets and some shows as they started back up. I also joined a local car club Southland Car Club. I had been tagging along to shows with them and even helped out at their show before I was a member. A month or more I was given a spare tire and brackets. A few weeks back I after cleaning & painting I went to install before a show and found the nub that you put the lug wrench in to help lift it hit the side plate for the trailer hitch. So another weekend I took the hitch apart to swap the side plates and I also was able to set it back under the truck more as it stuck out a little to far for me. It has gotten a little colder here and I took the truck to work 1 morning when it was 27*f and the choke would not open all the way. I marked the cap and turned it lean a little and it seams to be pretty good. I am still working on it to get it just right but I have not had it out when that cold again to see if ok or not. I have been hearing a EXH leak and checking it out found the inlet pipe to the muffler is pulling out of it. I am running EFI manifolds and Y pipe into the parts truck system on back. Because the Y pipe is 2-1/4" (1994) and the rest of the system 2" (1981) I am replacing the full system with the later 2-1/4" (1994) system. No one stocked the parts so they have been ordered and should be in Friday so maybe I will do it over the weekend? I do have a Christmas Parade Saturday morning I can go to so the system may wait till later. Dave ----

I think you are obviously wrong. You have a problem with your choke not getting hot enough with numerous loops around the manifold. I do not have this problem at all, and I am running the Choke Stove kit with the half can and tube passing through it. But hey, good luck. Maybe you will hit on the magic number of loops around your manifold to finally get the choke hot enough to work correctly. Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds? I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see. I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time. It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp. Dave ----

I don't have a duct to front of grille and no vacuum to the air cleaner door in the air cleaner snout, so it's probably getting a good amount of reasonably cool air. I think you may have too much cool air to the carb. I would get the door working and add a hose to the bottom pointed to the exh manifold to pull in some heat. Guys how dose the intake manifold cross over heat work? Is there a vacuum valve on 1 of the exh manifold outlet to force hot gasses through the intake? This should also be working right to help heat the manifold and keep the air/fuel in a A/F state. If the intake and the air is too cold the fuel will drop out and act like the choke is set too rich. And, assuming it is a 2150 it'll have several critical adjustments. One is the set point on the heat stove, the black round thing. You probably need to dial in at least one if not two more "notches" on it. That setting determines how much choke you have on initial startup. And it sounds like you don't have enough choke or it would start easier w/o the three pumps. Another is the vacuum pull off, which determines how much choke you have when the engine starts. And it sounds like you have too much pull off or the engine wouldn't die after startup. Go easy if you turn the choke cap as it may not take much to make a change. If it is not marked mark it before any adjustments. My Carter v1 was not marked so I marked it and only turned it a little and it made a change. On the pull off I thought it only moved the door and not the fast idle cam? My carb dose not have a pull off and I dont know if I have any that do that I can see how it works and why I asked. The following link is specifically for a 1 barrel Carter, but the idea is the same for others. The need for seasonal adjustments are not uncommon. I will have to check out the link as I am messing with my Carter's choke on my 300 six motor. On cold mornings the choke would not open or pull off. I have a 2 mile drive to the high way then it's 65 to 70 MPH for 45 min. and even after the 45 min drive the choke still did not open, fast idle was still and and the AFR gauge was way rich! This setting worked good during the summer but not so much when it got down to 45* or lower. I only turned the cap a little and it helped but I am still checking stuff and fixing as needed. Dave ----

Spring time I replaced the pump on mine as the gas part was now running good, new carb. So I don't have to replace it again I need to get some pump saver to run through it before it gets really cold. Dave ----

Did you read my post? The aftermarket choke stove kit works great on Lucille, and I didn't have to wrap the copper wire around and around the header. The "half bucket" acts as a hot air chamber to solve the problem you are having. You do not have to pull "dirty" air if you simply drill another hole on the other end of the "half bucket" and route the tube back up to the fresh air port on the carburetor. That will be much simpler, neater, and more effective than the way you are doing it. I did but on the EFI manifolds there is not really any where to mount it. I also think the loops around the manifold would be getting more heat than that half can and the tube passing through it. I needed to pick up a new oil psi sender and when at the parts store picked up some header wrap. I will make a few more wraps of copper and them the header wrap to keep the heat in. And dont you know this week its going to be in the 70's and dont need a choke Dave ----

As I thought true duals. As for the mufflers did it have normal mufflers? Out back you could see what looked like glass packs but could have been resonators? Dave ----

But I think that was 3 into 1 pipe and true duals all the way to the rear. They did not sound bad at all but would that sound fit a truck I have some time I think before I have to replace it so I can start looking for a nice sounding setup. Dave ----

I can tell you you don't want the top of the dash to shinny or the sun just glares off it. Door panels not so much as they are not in line of sight. Dave ----