FuzzFace2

I was talking of boxing in the opening to the inside of the frame making like a pocket the case would fit into like it dose now. Think of it like the 460 oil filter notch on the frames to clear the filter but a little more square. I think this would add back some strength to the frame. Then the skid plate from side to side to add more strength. Not knowing just what you have going on there on the skid plate & edge of frame maybe you could add angle iron welded to the outer edge (could point down) that maybe the bolts would go through as that should also add strength. The Jeep YJ mounts the trans / transfer to the skid plate that runs side to side and is bolted to the bottom of the frame. The only thing they did wrong was use nut certs and years later when you have to drop everything the nut certs would spin so you would then need to cut the bolt(s) off and figure a way to bolt the plate back on. How do I know this you ask? My son went through this on his. I also told him once the nut certs were out to make the holes bigger so a normal nut would fit in the hole and weld it in place. Then when putting it back together to never seize the bolts. I think he only did 1 like that dont remember what he did on the others? Dave ----

It might be to late but what if you took the part you cut out and flipped it top to bottom and turned it 180* and welded it to the top & bottom then make plates to fill in the ends to close it off. Is that what you were saying Gary? Sometimes I have a hard time seeing what someone is saying on things like this. Dave ----

Ha! That's a great idea Jeff, very creative. That will get people asking questions at car shows and wherever else you stop and get people looking the truck over like they do! Can't wait to see the finished product. I like special touches like this that are unique, but still look factory-ish. In any case, this is a cool project that Jeff has going. Can't wait to see the end result. That is vary cool kind of like the rear dual tank on my 81 flare side using all factory parts so it looks factory. Same with my metal ribbed bed floor. looks factory. That tail gate panel where did you get that from or dont we want to know Dave ----

Its grounded through the metal brake line. I would wire it up as was posted from Etrailer. That blue out put wire to the trailer brakes I would install a breaker on it as I would the power in wire. That power in wire should go to the battery NOT the hot side of the brake light switch. The 3rd wire to the brake light switch dose not need a breaker. Now that controller IIRC (been a long time since I played with that controller) dose not have the sensitivity for loaded & unloaded trailers so a adjustable resister needs to be added to the blue out put wire. This resister looks like 2 large springs with a metal bar between the springs that slides up & down the springs. This is mounted under the hood. With the campers we pulled they were loaded all the time so once set it did not need to be adjusted. But if you have say a car trailer were the load changes all the time you would need to adjust it. I do think it has "ramp up" adjustment by turning the knob. That would change how far the knob moveds with the pedal. Little pedal little controller or little pedal a lot of controller. Because itis tied into the brake lines the line where it ties in to the controller has to be bleeded for it to work right. And like a wheel cyl. it can leak, but I only remember 1 ever leaking. I dont think they sell that type of controller and that I believe it is because of ABS systems on new stuff. Back in 86 I dont think I could get this type for my new 86 K5 Blazer so I have been using the newer types. Dave ----

So if I understand you right you have swapped out the feed back carb & dist.? If so then the mirage is fine and should last LOL On the carb once the motor is up to temp and the idle speed set check each vacuum port on the carb to see what ones have vacuum and ones dont, make note of them. Now bring the RPM up and check the same vacuum ports again noting what dose and dose not have vacuum. 1 of the ports should not have vacuum at idle and then have vacuum with the RPM raised up. This is the timed port that should go to the dist. As for checking the timing with a dial back timing light mark the "marks" for TDC and 10* BTDC if that is where you want to set it. Motor up to temp, idle set, vacuum disconnected & plugged. Turn the dial back knob to line up the makrs to TDC. Where the knob points is what the timing is set to at that point. You can then turn the dist. so the knob will point to 10* BTDC Or you can set the light to 0 and turn the dist. so the marks you made line up at 10* BTDC. To check that turn the knob so the marks on the motor now line up to TDC and the knob should be at 10* BTDC. Dont forget to hook the hose back up to the dist. and take it for a test run. If you get pining pull the hose & plug and test again and let us know what is going on so we can help more. Dave ----

WOW is all I can say of the brakes on the truck! I have to relearn them they work so good. The show was more of a club get together than a show and maybe get some new members. It was cold and not a lot of people out so we all packed it in early. And like I did not have enough of the cold met up with the wife and it was all out side Good thing was they adopted out 9 dogs and wife said dont know how many kittens / cats so that was a good thing. This was the first time having this outing for this place, winery with other groups like ours, so when it happens again the turn out should be better we hope. All in all a good little outing Dave ----

The test is tomorrow when I do the weekly trash run. Then home to wash the pollen off the truck and blow out the inside as I got a show a few miles away. After the show meet up with the wife at a big pet adaption event about 30 miles away. Dave ----

Welcome Ian Yes I bought my 81 flare side to haul the weekly trash to the dump. Thing is as soon as I got it home and checked it out a little better I ripped it apart and did a cab off frame rebuild. From this To this in 4 years almost to the day and loaded with some trash LOL Dave ----

Sorry I did not get back sooner I just check my phone (Android) and it also does the same thing, will not make post as read but .... If the thread has a low number of replies, 1 had 4 total, it marked it read. If someone made a reply to a post with a higher number (27) it did not mark it. On my "classic" lap top running a "classic" OS and Chrome I thought it was on my end but now I guess not? I wonder if the site / software has a limit of users or data it can support? Dave ----

We have brakes! I went in early to work so I could work on the truck when I got home took a little nap and hit the garage. I have to have music and when I hook my phone to the speakers and set it on the shelf what did I put the phone on??? Yep the master bleeder tubes. Being the master was already installed I did not use them. On the way home I hit the hardware store for a valve & barbed fittings to hopefully fix my home made pressure bleeder from making a mess when I removed the cap. Installed version 1.2 put air to it and the cap is spitting fluid out all over the inner fender soaking the rag I had down. Used 3 clamps to hold the cap on but it still dripped but was able to bleed the brakes. I got a lot of air out the right rear and a little out of the left rear, nothing out the fronts. I also pushed clean fluid through even that what came out was only 2 years old looked a little dark. It has a great pedal just moving it in the yard as I had other work that needed to be done and a storm was on its way. I put a small can of 134a with sealer in the AC system as the compressor was kicking on & off, sign of low on charge. It is still low but it is staying on and I can now check with my black light where it may be leaking from (I hope) and fix it once and for all! Last thing was to my 02 Durango. It has the SS covered lug nuts that some of the cover came off and the dealer would not pull the wheel to check brakes or rotate tires because of them. They also wanted $300 to change them all out to the same type that when they use the impac guns on pops the covers off. I picked up 24 of SS lug nuts (non-cover type) and with help from my son got them all swapped out before the storm hit. Dave ----

Yes with no change that is why I then bleed the system. It also will not pump up like it would if it had air in the system but I dont see how that could of happened as I had been driving the truck for 2+ years. From the time I installed the booster / master it never felt right but it stopped. I want to say the booster / master were remanf. from Auto Zone IIRC All 3 hoses were replaced as part of the brake system rebuild. The wheel cylinders are new & caliper are think remanf. again as part of the brake system rebuild. The wheel cyl. are the 2nd set on the truck. I had the brake system working so I could move the truck in & out of the garage for cleaning and I found fluid leaking out of the right rear drum. When I pulled the drum I found the new cyl. a name brand, leaking so I replaced both of them a 2nd time again with a different name brand. Being the pedal dose not pump up after I been using the truck for 2+ years it has to be the master. Wednesday I have a CDL eye test late morning so I am going to tryand get the master changed out before then, fingers crossed. Dave -- New master is in but ..... I could not find my bleeder tubes kit and the new master said it came with a bleeder kit 2 plugs. You filled it up let some drip out to "lube the pistons" then install the plugs. You then stroked the piston till it got hard? Well could not get any fluid to leak out so with no plugs I stroked the piston till I got fluid out of both ports and no bubbles in the bowls. Installed the plugs till I got the master bolted to the booster and was ready to get the lines bolted up. Well the pedal test was not great as it went to the floor again but it did pump up that it did not do before. I have a doctor CDL eye test and if I can see after I will get my pressure bleeder hooked up and see what that does as that was the only way I was able to get a pedal before. I have never had so much problems with getting a good pedal than with this truck Dave ----

We can always make a straight decal or somethin. I don't really see how I could do a round one on that. My '82 has a round housing, which I'm led to believe is original based on the rest of the truck. I dont know if mine came with that filter housing as the truck had one of them cheap 3" round after market ones. I had seen some pictures of the tear drop ones so went with that. Dave ----

You know what they say dont you? "No pictures it did not happen" Now you have to do one for the later radiator that uses bolts on the side of the tanks up top to your 5.0 radiator Dave ----

Yes with no change that is why I then bleed the system. It also will not pump up like it would if it had air in the system but I dont see how that could of happened as I had been driving the truck for 2+ years. From the time I installed the booster / master it never felt right but it stopped. I want to say the booster / master were remanf. from Auto Zone IIRC All 3 hoses were replaced as part of the brake system rebuild. The wheel cylinders are new & caliper are think remanf. again as part of the brake system rebuild. The wheel cyl. are the 2nd set on the truck. I had the brake system working so I could move the truck in & out of the garage for cleaning and I found fluid leaking out of the right rear drum. When I pulled the drum I found the new cyl. a name brand, leaking so I replaced both of them a 2nd time again with a different name brand. Being the pedal dose not pump up after I been using the truck for 2+ years it has to be the master. Wednesday I have a CDL eye test late morning so I am going to tryand get the master changed out before then, fingers crossed. Dave --

I have not looked into what you guys are talking about but to keep either the bolt or nut from turning what if you were to weld it to flat stock with a hole in it for the threads to pass through. Fish that in where it has to go and once the threads are cough the flat stock would hit the sides of the frame and keep it from turning. The flat stock would also act as a washer to spread the load out more too. Dave ----

The pollen is so bad you cant tell as it covers EVERYTHING! I have never seen it so bad as down here. When driving down the road you think someone is burning leaves / brush because of the smoke. Then when you get to the smoke there is no smoke or even a smell of smoke! Down the road a little more you see the same thing and think what is going on???? It took me a little bit to figure out it was pollen blowing across the road in the air. Yes it is that bad! When home we keep the garage door up as we use the door in the garage to get into the house. Everything in the garage is covered in pollen. It is so thick on the floor you can sweep it. Pulling in & out leaves tire marks in it. So thinking the pollen would show where the leak is just dose not work like you think it would. Beside the dye had sprayed all over so it had to be cleaned. As for the weather they say we only have maybe 3 months of winter. Cars & Coffee runs year round only rain, snow / ice and really cold will stop it. Because I do LP gas when its cold I cant make weekend shows so I am making up for it now LOL Dave ----

The local parts store had a new master in stock sent the son to pick it up and a bottle of fluid for stock as I have one I will use for the change out. I have to get brakes back on the truck by next weekend as my car club has a member ship drive at a members store front just up the road. I forgot I backed off the vacuum advance 1 more turn today. Yesterday on the way home from the show I was getting pinging. I have not taken the truck for a drive as I did the cables and then the master went south. Dave ----

Well I have hit a few shows and cars & coffee this year so far. Have something going on just about every weekend now till think June! Being its getting warmer and the AC stopped working AGAIN I had to clean the dye off where I think the leak is. Cleaned that Friday evening and hosed the truck off and dried for a show Saturday. Pollen is killer this time of year is a loosing battle to keep the cars & trucks clean. No did not get anything this time but was good just to hang out with other club members and people at the show. A while back I ordered new rear Ebrake cables as the ones I installed did not fit right and the brake did not really hold. Before this last set I ordered a set also and checking part numbers found they were for a van IIRC, this set are the right ones. So today I figured it was time to get them in the truck. My son helped pull 1 side apart while he & I tried watching a 3 year old (grandson) son had issues to get it back together so I had to do it and the whole other side. When he went to hit the service brakes to center the shoes so I could adjust them the pedal went to the floor? Even after adjusting the drums it went to the floor. When he went to check fluid level he said as soon as he undid the wire cap hold down fluid came out? So we did the 2 man brake bleed on the rear only, pedal still going to the floor? When bleeding the pressure looked good coming out the rear bleeders but when I moved it in the yard only the fronts would lock on grass? Son & grandson went in so I used a shop air powered vacuum bleeder on the fronts wheels and that also did not help? And yes I did pull the pin out on the valve before bleeding. I am at a loss why this happened. The pedal was not great but did not go to the floor like it dose now. I popped the master off the booster and checked the push rod measurement and it was a little short so I adjusted it with no change of the pedal, still to the floor. The booster & master were new to me (rebuilt? I dont remember now) as I replaced them little over 2 years ago when I got the truck on the road. But it feels like half the master is not working. Like you loose a brake line and the pedal goes to the floor but it will stop just not good. On the cement drive I can not lock up any of the tires. On line the parts store shows a new master, not a remanf., in stock for about $60 so think going to give that a try. Oh the Ebrake cables fit as I had to remove a part I used to shorten the front cable. I have a lot more threads for adjusting down the road and it feels like it holds better but I did not really test it after the no brake pedal thing. I also adjusted the clutch as it was grabbing a little to close off the floor for my liking. 2 steps forward 1 back I guess is not to bad and I did nothing on the AC Dave ----

OUCH that hurts Someone said something about the tear drop filter housing AFAIK they did not have anything on them. I also dont know if they would take to anything on them because of the shape? I dont know when they went to the round housing maybe around 83? Dave ----

Yep the carbs like to come loose I think I would have tighten it up to see if that fixed it and gone from there as it could save you some coin. Dave ----

My phone looks to be doing the same thing Maybe its time for a router dump / reboot? I did not try the phone when not on WiFi will try it when I think of it. Thanks Gary for letting me know Dave Grant

Another from the PITA The last few days I have seen where you check a post out be it "new members' or projects" or what ever when you move to a different post either with in that area or different area it dose not mark it as read. Let's say Friday I read all the new postings so they should have changed from (in my case) blue to maroon so I know I have looked it over. Then when I come back like today (Sunday) I know where I left off as I can see the maroon old posts I have read and the blue new posts that came in after the last time. I have logged off and back on a few times and even not had the site loaded for a day or 2 and the same thing. It just makes it hard to figure where I left off with in a post to catch up. Now typing this I just thought I have not checked if this happens with my phone, On my PC old windows and chrome, and will give it a try to see but it is hard to follow this site on my phone and why I have not checked yet. I just did not know if something was "upgraded" and why this now happens or if on my end with this old laptop. Dave ----

Yes it dose. The front wires / sender are for feed back to a computer, feed back system on the truck at 1 time? The gauge sender should on the block, right side rear under the manifolds. Should have only 1 wire, dont know the color soory Dave ----

So your truck hasn't been started since October and it fired up with only one single pump of the accelerator 3 - 5 seconds later? That is incredible. Lucille will fire up with one pump and within a second or two or two if driven every day or every other day. But if she sits for a couple of weeks, my starting procedure is quite different than 66gtk's. Why is that? Is that because of the EEC-III computer controls on his truck? My 81 F100 with a 300 is the same, run everyday or other day and half a pump to set choke and tap the key and it is running but let it sit a week or 2 like today for the trash run and you have to pump the pedal like a crazy man while cranking the motor for it to start. The gas in the carb evaporates and why all the pumping till gas fills the bowl. Dave ----

Yep that's blue Dave ----