FuzzFace2

Most take the lifter apart and stuff the guts solid so it will not compress. Now if I understand right the disc was sitting on top of the lifter? If that was the case did it raise the push rod up some and if so by how much? Dave ----

The other day on the way home from work I looked down to see the temp gauge, yes factory gauge, pretty high almost to over heating. Itis never much above the first line on the cold side, yes I would say too cold but it all checks out with the 192*f stat. After it cooled down I pop the radiator cap and dont see much coolant? At work a few time I had seen a spot under the truck but thought it was from the AC drain. I topped it off and checked by the heater core and found 1 clamp a little loose. I also have the heater core shut off valve in that area so a lot of hoses & clamps. Hope that was it but if not I will be taking the valve out as it dose not work when on vent like I would like it to and if I have the controls on MAX AC the vacuum check valve (new) dose not check so the air goes to defrost. I have the later HVAC control so it works a little differently than what the early ones do and why I get heat on vent. This weekend I hope to get the leaking o-ring replaced on the AC system and pull a good vacuum and re-charge. Dave ----

It sounds like you may have 2 issues going on here. First is to get the controls to work to change the air flow from defrost to floor & vents. This way when the control is set to defrost / floor / vents the air will go where it is wanted. Once that is working the AC system may need re-charging based on the need to jump out the psi switch to get the compressor to run. Now do you know if the system has been changed to 134a or still has the R12 in it? How long has the system not worked? This will tell you what you need to do to get it running and blowing cold again. If it has been changed to 134a that is good as it will be a little less work. If not you will need to figure what charge is compatable with R12 with out a flush and oil change. If been down for a long time the dryer should be changed out. I would also pull the orifice valve to see if it has any junk on it. If it does then you will need to find where it came from and replace that part or the whole system and flush out what has not been replaced. Some say you will need to replace the hoses and others say you dont? I did only because my system had been open for 4 years and was a mix & match to get the system together other wise I would of reused the old hoses. I also replaced the dryer, age & open to long, and condenser, hole, flushed the evap. Added oil as needed and pulled a vacuum. When it held vacuum for an hour I charged it, n134a, and was blowing cold. Then the first leak showed up. I have had 3 leaks, 2 caused by me and this last one I will fix this weekend a fitting I never had apart. Vacuum never showed the first leak, new o-rings, I forgot to tighten a fitting. This last leak I will pull a long vacuum and let it sit to make sure it has no more leaks as I am getting tired fixing this AC system! Dave ----

AC or NON-AC system? You may want to pull the blower motor / fan and clean out the crap that is in there and anything that may be on / near the resister (fire starter). I found a lot of junk in there and it can be blocking the cores and keeping the air from flowing. I cant see the dobbers building up that much mudd to block air flow in the ducts & vents. Dave ----

I was doing something under the hood and dash and my HVAC system was working 1 min and not the next? As Gary said the vacuum line broke inside that pass through. If you look inside in that area you will see where that vacuum lines come through. A little farther inside you will see where that engine bay lines meet the HVAC lines and plug together. With the motor running and you pull that plug apart you should get vacuum on the engine bay side of the lines. No vacuum at that plug you then will need to track down why. Now if you do have vacuum at that plug and moving the HVAC controls dose nothing, still on defrost, then you may need to look into the "broken door hinge". BTW what gauges did you use that said the AC system was charged? Dose the compressor run when you have it on AC and it is blowing cold out the defrost? Dave ----

WOWis all I can say on the before pictures If you are going to pull the oil pan why use ear plugs to plug the drain back holes? I know with the price of gas you dont want to use it but if there was something like it you could use. I would drain the oil leave the plug out and using gas pour it over the head to wash anything there down into the pan and out. It will also break up anything in the pan and wash it out. You could then filter what came out and pour it back over the head and lifter area till they car clean. Then drop the oil pan. The other thing I would do is pull each push rod and make sure they are clean and can pass oil up to the rockers. Now the lifters could be plugged but you will know the push rods are clean. Dave ----

The Offenhauser is often listed as being able to use with stock log exhaust manifold [who would do that?], so the Raso most likely will work with stock intake manifolds. Yep it will work with the factory log intake manifold. I think that is who I got mine from off ebay back in the day. Dave ----

I remember seeing post on this, want to say it was the early year axles that had this. I also think the Mustang guys had this issue? I want to say there is a fix but cant remember what it was? Different shaft that tanks a larger bolt maybe? I also want to say the hard part is getting the bolt out so the shaft can come out as all of it is harden so drilling anit going to happen. Have you tried Googling this? Dave ---- bump

Us manual linkage guys have the same issues with them plastic bushings on the linkage rod ends. Mine had been in for about 2 years and not used everyday and when the Zbar pivot broke on the motor side I had to pull that all out to R&R the pivot. Well my 2 year old plastic bushings look just as bad as the one pictured. I hit the hardware store looking for metal bushings but could not find anything close. I did find a thicker plastic bushing that fit the ID but the OD was to big. I ended up drilling the holes bigger to fit the bushings OD and hope it will last longer. If they go bad I will look at Master Carr for metal bushings I can make fit. Dave ----

The forum software is not smart enough to put it right side up when pictures are posted from a phone. It has to do with how you hold the phone when you took the picture. Most of my pictures are hosted on my web site so I dont have that issue. You have done a lot of work to the truck already and from what you posted you have a plan for a lot more LOL Lets start with a clean engine bay. You will be getting dirty before it is clean Do you have access to a pressure washer? If not a water hose will work. I would try and scrape off the heavy dirt areas first using putty knives and flat blade screw drivers. I pull the air filter and cover the carb opening with a baggie (or I just be careful not to get water down the carb) I dont worry about the dist. cap or wires as I do this at home and can use shop air to blow them dry. I then fill one of them small gallon hand sprayers with Simple green and / or Awesome de-greaser. Home Depot has Zep purple de-greaser that is really HD and you can cut that with water. I have used this in my parts washer. I have also used oven cleaner but you have to watch as it will burn you if it gets on you and could hurt the paint but works great on the baked on grease & dirt. I get the motor and transmission warm as it helps. Spray everything you want clean with your mixture of de-greaser. Using a parts cleaning brush work the de-greaser in keeping the ares wet as you work it in. I then use the pressure washer or the water hose to wash it all away. As they say rinse & repeat as needed till clean. It is a lot easier working on a clean motor. As for that plug that bubbles. Could it be liquid in the plug hole and is boiling and not a loose plug? If you have not done so I would do a complete tune up, plugs, wires cap & rotor, air / gas breather filters, PCV. Whenthe plugs are out do a compression test so you know the shape the motor is in. With the tune up and compression test done you should be good for a year or 2 before the next tune up. The carb is pretty easy to rebuild and rebuild kit are cheap, go for it. As for the vacuum lines with screws in them do you need to pass under hood smog testing? If not then I dont think I would worry about them to much. You should have 1 from carb to dist for vacuum advance. Power brake hose and PCV hose from intake to them. And 1 for the HVAC if you have AC. I think I saw the carb has a bowl vent hose going to the charcoal canisters (2 for dual tanks) under the battery. IIRC there is a vacuum line that tees into that line. Depending how the truck was set up it has either solenoid for this or a vacuum valve. Think the vacuum valve goes to the top of the PCV. The air filter also has vacuum hose going to it. It can have 1 or 2 temp switches. The line goes to 1 and then to the snorkel valve or the other switch and then snorkel valve. This valve lets warm air from the exh manifold in to the air filter when the motor is cold and then opens it to keep a steady temp going to the carb. The rest of the vacuum stuff that would be on that sticker if you dont have smog is not needed so dont worry about it, I dont Dave ---- ps replace them tires LOL Oh yes that tank you are trying to run off of is junk just replace it. Now if you want 2 tanks there is nothing wrong with replacing them with the same size for the rear or a larger on, you are stuck with the factory size for the front one. Get 2 new senders when you replace the tanks to be safe. Note the front & rear senders are different even if both are 19 gallons for a long bed truck. You have a simple dual tank system as it uses a 3 port valve on the inside frame rail with 1 wire going to it. It might be hard to find a new valve at local stores, think I got mine off ebay and I got a spare just in case. By default the rear tank is used as the valve when no power is going to it switches to the rear tank. When on the front tank you should have power to the valve / wire, if not check the fuse. When you drop the tanks note there is a plastic hose inside the filler neck, this is the vent for when you fill the tanks to let air out. This hose kinks, falls out of the holders top or bottom and comes apart and you cant fill the tanks at anything more then a dribble of gas going in. Put this vent hose back the way the factory had it and pump as fast as you want! Dave ----

The forum software is not smart enough to put it right side up when pictures are posted from a phone. It has to do with how you hold the phone when you took the picture. Most of my pictures are hosted on my web site so I dont have that issue. You have done a lot of work to the truck already and from what you posted you have a plan for a lot more LOL Lets start with a clean engine bay. You will be getting dirty before it is clean Do you have access to a pressure washer? If not a water hose will work. I would try and scrape off the heavy dirt areas first using putty knives and flat blade screw drivers. I pull the air filter and cover the carb opening with a baggie (or I just be careful not to get water down the carb) I dont worry about the dist. cap or wires as I do this at home and can use shop air to blow them dry. I then fill one of them small gallon hand sprayers with Simple green and / or Awesome de-greaser. Home Depot has Zep purple de-greaser that is really HD and you can cut that with water. I have used this in my parts washer. I have also used oven cleaner but you have to watch as it will burn you if it gets on you and could hurt the paint but works great on the baked on grease & dirt. I get the motor and transmission warm as it helps. Spray everything you want clean with your mixture of de-greaser. Using a parts cleaning brush work the de-greaser in keeping the ares wet as you work it in. I then use the pressure washer or the water hose to wash it all away. As they say rinse & repeat as needed till clean. It is a lot easier working on a clean motor. As for that plug that bubbles. Could it be liquid in the plug hole and is boiling and not a loose plug? If you have not done so I would do a complete tune up, plugs, wires cap & rotor, air / gas breather filters, PCV. Whenthe plugs are out do a compression test so you know the shape the motor is in. With the tune up and compression test done you should be good for a year or 2 before the next tune up. The carb is pretty easy to rebuild and rebuild kit are cheap, go for it. As for the vacuum lines with screws in them do you need to pass under hood smog testing? If not then I dont think I would worry about them to much. You should have 1 from carb to dist for vacuum advance. Power brake hose and PCV hose from intake to them. And 1 for the HVAC if you have AC. I think I saw the carb has a bowl vent hose going to the charcoal canisters (2 for dual tanks) under the battery. IIRC there is a vacuum line that tees into that line. Depending how the truck was set up it has either solenoid for this or a vacuum valve. Think the vacuum valve goes to the top of the PCV. The air filter also has vacuum hose going to it. It can have 1 or 2 temp switches. The line goes to 1 and then to the snorkel valve or the other switch and then snorkel valve. This valve lets warm air from the exh manifold in to the air filter when the motor is cold and then opens it to keep a steady temp going to the carb. The rest of the vacuum stuff that would be on that sticker if you dont have smog is not needed so dont worry about it, I dont Dave ---- ps replace them tires LOL

Yesterday after my monthly eye injection and a little rest I took the bike out for a little spin. Put 100 miles on it. First 40 miles when I came to stop lights I could smell gas? At 50 miles I stopped to talk to someone and no more smell or any leaks that I could see. The 50 mile ride home no smell either. Bike ran great, got it up to 80 MPH once as a test, but most was 50 to 60 MPH with stop lights here & there. On the way home was rush hour and had more time at stop lights so I turned on the radio, works pretty good too! I may take it to work a few times next week. Got to be cheaper than any of the trucks I have with gas at $4.70 a gallon here now. Dave ----

That is a bummer about the radio. That is how I tested my radio on the bench ...... well it was on the radiator support as I did not have a battery or power supply to use on the bench. A few jumper wires from battery to radio and speakers. On the valve cover and oil leak. too many years ago I had a 318 Dodge 4x4 PU that leaked and I was using new cork gaskets. It was only 1 side I must have pulled that cover off 6 times before I found the issue. The factory bolts used washers and 1 washer cut the valve cover on the inside. When the bolt was pulling the cover down it opened up the cut and oil leaked out. I would pull the cover, cut then closed up, and all would look good. Wounder if you could have that happening? Dave ----

Like anything the later bikes did not have most of the problems the early ones did like the water pump seal & timing chain. IIRC your cooling fan is run by the cam dose it also run the water pump? I have not looked that deep into the pump seal as it dose not seam to be that big a deal on mine and they upgraded the chain area too. I have seen where guys like to make the cafe racers out of them and that UK liked them for dispatch. Here if cars / trucks / bikes are over 25 years old they dont need to be inspected. Other than the rear brake pedal having to much movement, just needed to adjust it and the shoes still have a lot of meat left. The front blower stopped working on my 02 Durango today, read no front AC and it was 97*f, so may take the bike to work tomorrow or the pick up. As for the ride this weekend I may paint the small bathroom while the wife is away. Back around the first of the year I wanted to paint it then and the wife said she would get someone to do it. It had been needing it for 6 months then and it been another 6 months and I want it done! Being small I hope to get it done in 1 day and ride the next but you know how that works out LOL Dave ----

As Gary said welcome to the garage. Truck does look to be in pretty good shape for the age and lots of factory options. Dave ----

Nice looking bike. If the bikes have some up to date work done to them then I can see paying a little more for it. I dont know if you know of this web site for the CX & GL bikes https://www.cx500forum.com/ It has a lot of good information and guys that will help with issues like the guys on here. Wife is going to the NJ shore for the weekend, girls weekend. So I am left to take care of the fur kids (5 cats ours, 1 foster cat & 3 kittens and 2 dogs) so I hope to get some seat time in. Dave ----

Welcome aboard Jake! This truck must have factory AC. They're the ones that are easy to change the heater core. If it's without factory AC, changing the heater core is quite a bit more work! Welding in a new frame horn shouldn't be a big deal. Measure twice and cut once;). I cut a set of frame horns off an '86 and welded them on to a 1995 F150 frame that I swapped under a 1980 F150. It worked out well. I measured everything 20 times to make sure the bumper would line up perfectly with the Bullnose body. Good luck with it and keep us posted on the progress! I'd like to see that frame work! Welcome to the forum. On the frame horn have you talked to a frame shop on pulling it back into shape? If you have the frame books as they may not they could out it on the "deck" and make a few pulls, little heat maybe & measurements and be on the money to bolt everything back into place. I come from a body shop back ground and why I say pull the frame. I rolled a full cage Bronco racing off road. Frame shop pulled the cage back into place along with the fire wall so a new door would fit. Added a brace or 2 to the cage and a few other fixes and had it back out racing in no time. Dave ----

That orange wire is on the radio side right? If so I believe it is for a power ant. If you turn on the radio and check that wire for power it should have power, turn radio off no power. As for that yellow light in the upper right corner it comes on when you have a station turned in for stereo. It sounds like you have the same radio I have in my truck and that light will come on & off depending on how well the station is tuned in. I dont worry about it as long as the radio plays. The tape plays on mine but the volume is pretty low so need to crank it up and it is still a little low to hear it so I dont play tapes. No the tapes are not on the dash or seat, they are in the glove box LOL I should pull them out at shows and have one hanging out of the radio and 1 or 2 on the seat Dave ----

That is a lot of riding on a bike even if not in 1 trip. 1 summer a few of us went from CT (NY line on I95) to Cape Cod for a week that is the farthest I have gone on a bike in 1 shot. Saturday after doing the last few checking over of the bike I took it for a ride to drop off truck parts down the road. Well not long after get going I knew something was not right, could not go faster than 45 MPH? Dropped the parts off and came back home to figure out what is up with it. I pulled it in to the house garage out of the sun and I went in the house to the AC, was 90* out! After cooling off & thinking about this I moved it to my garage with tools. I felt the 2 exh pipes and found the right side cool? So compression test is in order. I break the plug loose and pull the socket out to use just the socket and see the end is wet? I pulled the plug and as it is coming out thinking "where is the wetness going to go?" So after plug is out a crank the motor over and blow out some vapor but not what I think was in the plug hole. So I fire up the motor with out the 1 plug till no more vapor came out. I believe it was water from when I washed the bike. I am a member on a Honda site and someone said there is a drain hole so this should not happen. So today I check into this and sure enough the drain is plugged. Cleaned it and the plug wire, it was wet up inside, best I could with air and checked the other side and all is good now. Took the bike out for a test ride of 36 miles, most of that at 55 MPH but ran it up to 70 and still pulling just to see. Wife dose not want me up on the high way just yet, more seat time needed she said, but I know the bike will do good. It was a little windy and with the front dress / windshield I did not feel it and the bike only moved a little. The Honda site also pointed me to someone that makes decals for older bikes. They dont list them for my 83 GL650i interstate and they want the person looking for decals to check with dealers first as they dont have the time to do it and then make them if they have to and make a profit. So when I have the time I will lookup the part numbers for the decals and then check with a dealer to see what they can come up with. Dave ----

The PO of your truck was a big rig driver, they do not cancel you have to turn them off, and he liked that and took the self cancel out JK as Gary said it is broken and should turn off when the wheel is turned back. Dave ----

You cant compare your truck and that TJ as the wheel bases are different and that will make a BIG difference how they ride. They the type of suspensions front & rear, the weight of the 2 trucks, ect. I am running full poly up front on my 81 F100 2wd flare side. Out back and body I am using the old factory rubber mounts, same for motor & trans mounts. I like the way the ride is. It is not harsh and is pretty smooth both for a truck & poly bushings up front. I cant see running poly out back make it ride any different. I would never use poly for body or motor / trans mounts as I believe it would transfer too much vibrations inside. Dave ----

Yes it did and think you are right about it not seating as I checked the fixed one before I broke it and the NOS one when I installed it. I have nothing to loose drilling and tapping for 9/16 threads like you said. I never gave that a thought other than driving a roll pin in like I did. Dave ---- Up date: Back on the 11th had a show a few towns away, truck made it there and back just fine. As I was driving it it dawned on me that the clutch pivot must have been going bad for a bit as the pedal did not come up all the way before it broke, had to pull it up with your toe. Clutch worked great. Still waiting for the replacement mirror from LMC. The mirror I barowed would not adjust so its pointing to the moon LOL Cant wait for the new mirror as I drive with it and I am lost with out it Dont know if we have a show this weekend or not but its going to be really hot even in the shade and who wants to sweat in the shade? Dave ----

We have a running and driving motorcycle I had the day off from work so drove 40 miles to the only open Honda dealer close by to see if they had the O-ring gaskets for the intake to head, the old ones leaked when I tried to reuse them. There was only 1 o-ring in the whole state and it was 50 miles in the other direction from my house and i was 40 the other way and I needed 2 rings. I checked for some other parts, petcock rebuild parts & temp switch for the cooling fan, for the bike but nothing came up in his system. On the way home I hit a different hardware store and found some o-rings if they were just a little thicker would have been great. Plan B the new o-rings and a thin coat of forum a gasket. Got the carbs back on and started it up and the idle RPM is at 3000 and dont know why? And checking for vacuum leaks at the manifolds and I still have one? Then I remembered there was a vacuum hose in that area, plugged it and all was good. I let the motor run long enough that the cooling fan should have turned on and checking the switch it is not working, I bought one just in case and I knew the fan worked from testing before. I got lucky and was able to drain the cooling system and not make to big a mess and was able to pull the bottom of the radiator out to swap out the switch. Afrter refilling the cooling system I backed off the idle speed knob some more and then remembered reading something about the choke having fast idle. There is no adjustment for this and the knob was in all the way but got thinking maybe the cable was not right? I moved hold down to where it wanted to sit and give that a try. Well the idle is now to low so had to raise it some and running it to get up to temp for fan cut on. It did not so looked into that and it started to work? going to need to keep an eye on it but it was working till I shut the bike off for the day. Checked the tire PSI, they were low, still need to check the air in the suspension but need to find my low pressure tire gauge as the rear only get think 10 PSi. I did take it for a few laps around the yard, got it up to 3rd gear, it is a 5sp, and broke the rear tire loose on the grass in 2nd gear with out even trying. Before I put all the body panels back on I want to de-grease / wash it as a start to detail it and check any leaks it may have. Need to get insurance for it and then plate but think I will sneak a spin around the block or 2 before then Sorry no pictures, it was in the upper 90's here, just to hot / wet & tired and talking of 100* tomorrow! Dave ----

Thanks guys So far I think I did pretty good on the deal. I picked up a dealer brochure and from what I get from that the bike has just about all options. The large trunk out back is a option as it comes standard with a small one. It has a marine AM/FM/BT/USB radio just not the Honda line radio but that is ok with me and it sounds pretty good too! Only thing it dose not have is crash bars and high way pegs. I have given a vary quick look for them, pegs more so, and have not seen anything yet. Once on the road and know it is good I will look into making it prettier. As said the decals are shot and I am thinking of painting ones in place of them. The factory decal is a darker gray metal flake and silver duel pin stripes on a lighter gray metal flake paint. Thinking black / red metal flake with red pin stripe. Something a little different but still close to factory. You know I am like that, dual tanks on a flare side, metal ribbed bed floor both look factory LOL Dave ----

What ever they are for they look like they broke off a part? And as said they do not look like factory screwsand I have had 2 trucks completely pull apart down to every last screw For others when I pulled something apart and "bag & taged" I also put how many screws / nuts / bolts, if they had long & short one where they went on the part. That went for bolt trucks and come time to put 1 back together I looked at both bags and used the best from each baggie. Dave ----