FuzzFace2

Thanks for confirming that the BK/PK wire is backup. I couldn't find that on the EVTM. I think my license plate bracket will be OK once it gets a little TLC. But, yes, I did see that Reamer was reproducing them. I had to make the tail light harness for my flare side as I had nothing. I started with a style side harness and cut it to work for the flare side. I also had to make the plate light harness from a pig tail of the socket. I was able to get new Grote tail lights think off Ebay as it has been years since I built the truck. I was able to get the plate light bracket off Ebay. Plate bracket I bought from Reamer. BTW the inside of the tail light housing were painted white from the factory IIRC. I had to paint my after market ones. As for light grounds I have a metal ribbed floor from a style side on my flare side so I never had a problem. Dave ----

I will be following the build. At one time you could buy that rear sill panel dont know if you still can as I have not looked in a while. On the broken braces they are for the front & rear lower of the fenders. The step should have it's own support bracket. It uses 2 carriage bolts thru the step to the bracket and IIRC the bracket bolted to the front sill. I did a different floor than wood so the front sill and rear sill I had to make changes to work. Also my bed was so bad I dont know how the factory had the step brackets to the sill? I also would never use the steps to access the bed as I would mark them up Dave ----

Oh if you have all the under hood parts for AC on a 300, compressor brackets, compressor or manifolds bolted to it, hoses and pulleys / water pump and think crank. Even if you dont use them you can sell them as they are getting hard to find for a 300 motor, V8's not so hard. Dave ----

Sorry late to the party. As Mat said it looks like that truck is made up from a few different ones. Is the rest of the speed control under the hood of the truck? If not then I would say something happened to the steering column and that one with the shifter was swapped in. As for the AC, yes I added factory AC to a non-factory truck but not everyone or is that anyone? Would do what I did and take half the AC firewall from an AC truck and graph it in to a non-AC truck. They say you can cut the 3rd large hole, a few bolt holes and the heater hose hose to fit the AC box to the non-AC firewall. Also as said the AC dash has the vents and the duct work needed to get air from the HVAC box on the firewall into the cab. The full dash / duct work will swap without issues. There is a AC harness that plugs into the non-AC trucks harness. You unplug a "loop" and plug in this AC harness that then plugs into the AC fan switch and blower motor. You will also need the HVAC control but if you swap over the AC dash you will have the HVAC control, AC fan switch and duct work. When I did my AC swap I also took the parts truck full wiring harness thinking the AC harness was built into it and then found it was a add on. But it did work in my favor as the dual fuel tank is built into the trucks main harness and I added duel tanks to my flare side. So in short the AC HVAC box on the firewall, dash with vents and duct work and the AC jumper harness. Dave ----

When you checked / set timing did you remove and plug the vacuum at the dist. Also what was the idle speed set to? Because the 300 uses timing gears and not a chain it will not have play in it that can make the timing jump also. I also have not seen a electronic dist. wear out the upped bushing like the points dist. did as it dose not have the points pushing the shaft to 1 side. But you can try and move the shaft and see if there is any movement. Now that I think of it I dont know if there was shaft play if it would change the timing like it did with points? You may want to check the plate the pick up coil is mounted to to see if it only moves to advance the timing with vacuum. Last I might try a different DSII box. If you need to buyone buy top of the line one, you get what you pay for. Dave ----

I washed the truck for the first time in months. I drive the truck for weekly trash runs and some of them were in the rain then add pollen that turns everything yellow even when parked in the garage. After washing and drying I took the truck to a show when other members from the car club. Told the club had 12 to 15 cars there. Tomorrow the club is holding a cruise in and swap meet and I get to pull the clubs support trailer that I store at my house with the truck. Dave ----

Kurt I did read you used the 95 mount and all was good. That is even better than the 85 being the 85 was bad and would have needed to be changed out if it was fit too. Dave ----

Now I see what you were talking of but I also knew that when talking not I see it on my laptop. Good to hear you got a "fix" for the problem. Is it just that 1 RA mount that is off or both of them? I know RA has different level / price / options for parts listed are the mounts done that way also or do they only offer the 1 option? Dave ----

I dont know if the member has posted this yet or not but figured I would throw it in here with the brackets. The member has a 85 F150 with a 300 and think granny 4sp, he is the 2nd owner and nothing has been messed with before he bought it. When the motor was pulled he found the right side motor mount was in bad shape. Mote this for later. He rebuilt a 95 300 to drop in the truck and ran into a little problem. He bought 2 new rubber motor mounts. When he went to drop it in the left side mount fit the frame bracket like it was made for it as it was and the motor / valve cover is level. The issue is the right side. He side the angle between the motor / rubber mount and the frame bracket . I for get what the angles where but it was not even close. He was wondering if that is why the motor / rubber mount went bad on the factory motor? He did some checking the motor / rubber mounts fit a bunch of different years and models, I forget them ATM. This mount is what bolts to the motor, no brackets on motor and frame and a rubber part fits between them. The only thing I ask him to try was to bolt the old mounts from the 85 motor onto the 95 motor and see if the angle is fixed. I also said maybe pick out a different brand of mount and see if that changes anything. Thinking the mounts are for a Ford six as they bolted to the motor but maybe a car making the angle different and was boxed wrong? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/300-motor-mount-td151182.html It is always something. Dave ----

That puts a wrench into the system I still think I would work with him to get this running as he can learn from it none the less. Where is that leak tanking the block? For S&G what if you were to grind that crack out and clean the area then heat it with a torch and stick weld up the crack? You cant cant loose anything but some time to try. Even if it still leaks what you have to go thru just to get it to run he will learn. Dave ----

If you dont mind who do you have for insurance? If one of the classic car ones was it agreed value? If you dont want to say that is OK too. BTW yes I do have classic insurance and agreed value and I get to keep the truck if anything happens to it. Dave ----

On a manual transmission I was tought to ALWAYS push in the clutch when starting and let the clutch up slowly once running. No need for a stupid switch to save dumb people Also to push on the brake pedal before turning the key to make sure it has brakes. Now on a auto I can see a NSS as you dont have a clutch to let up slowly once running. Dave ----

As Mat said drive the truck with the 2.47 rear gear to see how it goes even with the ZF5. My 81 F100 parts truck came with a SOD 3sp OD and a 2.47 rear gear. I never drove it, no motor and was rolled over, but my 81 F100 flare side has a NP435 granny 4sp, Advance over drive and a 2.75 rear gear and on the high way at 70 MPH is 1800 RPM. 1800 is the sweet spot for power on the 300 motors. Oh tire size is 235 / 75 / 15 and is a 4x2 truck. Dave ----

I should add, I went to JBG and found one for the same price as DC--I think those around $45 are DC original products. JBG ships it for less than DC. Then I thought what the heck and went to NPD--they have 2--a thin cheap one for $20, and the DC one--which is thicker and more like oem from the reviews. $46 at NP but shipping is $12, so I may just get it there! Thanks for the idea! I got my shroud for the 300 from NPD and happy with it. It was cheap enough back then that I bought 2 as I was thinking I could make one to work out of the 2 of them as LMC wanted you to use the number off the old shroud and I did not have one for the number. Turned out just needed to trim a 1/4" off the flange and it was a bolt on Dave ----

Yep that is where I have seen them come loose also not the carb to intake manifold. Dave ----

I feel your pain of not returning back to center and I also have wondering My 81 F100 4x2 has been like that since I got it back on the road. I do know the pins were way to tight but have loosen up a bunch in the 28K miles since. Box is a red head, that took the play out of the wheel but nothing about the returning or centering. Everything was with in spec when checked but did not get a read out, he got it in last min. before closing and cut the price if no sheet. I bought a set of toe plates and when I have the time will check what I got. I am thinking it may need a little more toe as it feels like the wheels are pulling it side to side the return to center I can live with. Dave ----

Oh wanted to add about the oil flush. As part of my trucks rebuild I had to replace the valve, side cover and oil pan gaskets so they were cleaned when off and were not really that bad. I would have used diesel fuel or kerosene to pour thru the motor. You could filter it and reuse till happy with the way it came out the drain plug hole. Motor oil I think would be a little to thick and not flush too good? When I do my oil changes I add 1 qt of ATF to the oil and start the motor and let it idle as I get my tools together. this way it gets heat in the motor as they say oil should be hot when changed. I dont feel good on driving it with the ATF in there and why I dont but others have with out issues. I think doing it this way if there was any "chunks" not that my motor dose, would only be in the pan and not get sucked up into the pick up screen and cause issues. Being the oil is hot the chunks should flow out when drained. BTW the other day when I checked the oil I could not see the level on the stick as it was that clean and I got to have at least 2000 miles on the oil. Dave ----

Welcome I did not see it asked but where is home and do you want to be added to members map, city or area code will work. If you have the tools (welder) replacing the floor pans, rockers and cab corners is not that bad as I had to do that on my 81 F100 flare side. Being it turns over I would for go the compression test and see how it runs. Then if there is signs of it running poorly than do the test. When I road tested my truck it had a miss first thing I did was a test and found compression was good. Did a tune up and motor ran great I then started pulling the truck apart for a 4 year cab off rebuild. I run my motor off a small gas can set on the inner fender as I did not want gas sitting in the tanks as I did other work. I would say just think about replacing the tank(s) and sender(s) as it is not worth the work to try and get the bad fuel and rust out of them. My parts truck have the OD trans and 2.47 rear gear. I never drove it as it had no motor and was rolled over. My truck has a 300 and NP435 granny first transmission and 2.75 rear gear. I did add a Advance Adapter over drive and is great as it only spins 1800 RPM @ 70 MPH and no one dose 70 here Dave ----

I've spent some time in this area and absolutely love it. I'm jealous;). I've been to the Wheels Through Time Museum, which I seem to recall being in Maggie Valley? The day I arrived, somebody had just done a burnout in the building a little earlier and you could still smell the smoke. I usually stayed in Robbinsville or Deals Gap when in the area. Beautiful, absolutely love it. PS: Love the Flaresides too. I've had three Bullnose Flaresides and one '94 Flareside. A little late but welcome to the FOG (Flare side Owners Group) You are only 4.5 to 5 hours from me as I am out by Raleigh LOL I dont think I can make the show this year but maybe next so keep us posted so I can plan the trip. I dont think your truck will be any worst then mine was. When I got it home and started going over it and hour later I started pulling it apart for a 4 year cab off frame rebuild. When the wive came out to check on me after 3 hours and saw what I was doing was not too happy. Till I got paint on it did she then under stood why I did what I did. Dave ----

The seat looks good. That is one thing I need to do to my truck, redo the seat. It had a rip when I installed it, came from part truck. There is now a 2nd rip starting close to the first, age and dry seat base. A few days ago I did some work on the pickup. The AC stopped working again and it is getting warm. That and we have been getting a lot of rain and the windows fog up with out AC. The low PSI switch stopped working a while back so it was jumped out so meant the system is low on charge. Replaced the switch and put 3+ can of 134a in it. The switch worked at the on / off PSI based on the fast fill gauge setup I was using. I also used my black light but did not see any leaks but it was bright out so who knows? If I had the money I would farm this out and the next time it stopped working send it back to them to fix right as I am getting tired of it! I also had a clunking when rocking the steering wheel back & forth or going out the drive. With help found the 3 tie rods that were removed and installed for the rebuild loose. Not bad tie rods but the nuts loose and they had cotter pins in thank the man up stairs. Got them tight and no more clunking. Also felt the choke was staying on a little to long so leaned that out some and seams pretty good but may want to lower the fast idle speed as I feel that is to high but we are still testing. I got a drip from a PS hose at the box and was able to take up on 1 of the fittings. The other was tight and could not budge it. Hope that takes care of it as I want to de-oil the under side for show season Took the truck to work last 3 days, 40 miles each way, been running great. Dave ----

What about an industrial belt from say Grainger? When I worked at the hospital all the fan units used industrial belts. They come in different V widths to fit the shives. The fan units could run 2 to 6 belts and any over 3 they were mat belts as even matched sets did not fit right. Dave ----

When you are a kid you could get 3 to 5 hp motors for go karts and mini bikes. I got into racing go karts that use 5 hp motors. After blowing one up dad bought a new motor a HD rod and a gasket kit. Pulled a new motor apart to install the HD rod, lighter flywheel and other safety gear and went racing again. I would like to build a racing tractor, not a puller but a circle track one In the fall some of the car shows also have tractors and the garden tractor pullers show up. When 1 starts everyone goes to it. Dave ----

I found a picture of my parts truck with the towers bolted to the frame. The picture of the ones for sale. Dont know if this will help? Dave ----

Dave is in the house ............ but I dont know what help I can be I did not know there was a running change on the mounts so I dont know what the change might be? Could it be where the rubber mount stud goes into that part is now a tear drop and not a round hole? Cant say I think I saved the set off my parts truck frame before I gave it away just so I would have them for another project. The truck was 02/81 so before the 1982 change date. If you can wait till the week end I should have time to dig thru my bins and maybe get to the car that is a shelf as they may be on or by it. If I can find them I can take pictures and maybe we can see what is different? Also if it may help my truck is 11/80 making it a 81 truck. The motor is newer and think from a van from what I have come across in the rebuild. I dont know what rubber mounts they used, the 80 / 81 from the truck and bolted to the motor or the van mounts or even something say from 85>? This gets me thinking, look up the rubber mounts for our trucks and see if there is a early / late 82 split and if van mounts are different than ours? If there is no split then maybe the change is on the frame side of the mount and if I can find mine we can see if the ones you posted a picture of are different. Dave ----

I have heard of the dressing but never used it. When I was part of a street stock pit crew racing at Waterford Speedway I dont think they even used it. If they did it was kept from me and the rest of the crew and we had 2 cars so I would think someone would have slipped at some point LOL Is the Gunk a powder? You wet the floor, spread the powder and scrub it in and rinse it off? If so I have used that before, school or buddies shop? Dave ----