85lebaront2

Jim. the OBD-II has two modes for EVAP. one is the pretty standard CANP valve, these in OBD-II usually have a small vacuum operated air pump that applies pressure to the tank(s) and pressure transducers in the tank(s) to measure this. If it doesn't see the pressure, it sets a code. The second system uses what is called a VMV, or vapor management valve. This is teed into the line from the tank(s) to the canisters and is operated by manifold vacuum through a PWM solenoid valve, this adjusts the flow into the PCV line much as the carbureted snake's nest of hoses and valves did, except the snake's nest fed the canister vapors directly into the front 4 cylinders on the intake, the VMV feeds into the PCV line that goes to the rear of the plenum.

Gary, if you have the same tank setup Darth has, my tank vent lines are 3/8" going to the dual canisters and a 1/4" (I think) going to the nearest frame crossmembers to the tanks. I found that the later trucks all have larger vent lines, probably to allow for the heating of the gas in the pumps and from the engine as it returns to the tank. If you are going to do away with the canisters, I would definitely recommend the later, larger vent lines. BTW, without the canisters, you are going to have gas fumes, especially in warm weather, and the HD (over 8500 GVW) system is no closed, it does vent to atmosphere at the rear and cab rear crossmembers.

The real issue with it, the 2G goes full output with no place to really load it down, if it doesn't fry every electronic piece on the vehicle, it can still set itself on fire like a Vietnam era Buddhist monk.

Ok, here is what I did, I had bought a 1990 F250 as a donor vehicle for the EFI engine and E4OD. The engine to be rebuilt and using the F3TE heads, mild cam and a little more compression. I took the top of the 1990 engine and installed it on my 1986 short block. At the same time I had already decided to change the dash and wiring to a newer configuration. The first change was to mount the polygroove belt system and FS10 compressor along with the 1990 C2 pump with metric fittings. The alternator was still the 2G in 1990, so since I had a pair of them, and the 1990 had the plug changed to a permanent connection I used it initially. You will note that the alternator sense wire and charging output are all tied together at the fusible link rather than separated by the ammeter shunt. I bought an uprated 3G, 160 amps from someone on FTE who needed the money, I installed it using the huge wire he had with it and used a 200 amp mega fuse in place of the fusible link, other than the M8X1.25 hole in the small lug it fit right in place. I did have a problem with it slipping the belt, but after looking at the 130 amp 3G on my 1994 Taurus, I found the pulley that came with it (which was the same as the 2G had) was quite small. I put an extra Taurus pulley on and never had any more problems. I did drill out the hole and tapped it for the 3/8-16 bolt the 2G used. It is essentially identical to the Taurus 3.8L 130 amp unit. Since both the 1990 and the later 1996 wiring use a voltmeter rather than an ammeter and I had the 2G wiring, when my son's 1986 F150 ate the 2G alternator we installed the 1990 one, no charge still. Went into the 1986 wiring and found the portion where the alternator feeds in at the junction of the two fusible links that the BK/O wire from the alternator feeds into at splice S202 was burned, we were seeing 18 + volts at the alternator, but the regulator which is connected on the other end of the shunt, was only seeing the battery voltage, or about 12V. I am sure the intent of this wiring was to have the alternator keep the battery up to 13.8-14.2V, but any interruption of the charging output causes the alternator to overcharge. Since the feed into the main electrical system is the other end of the shunt, this can cause burned out lights among other things.

No problem, if you look at the "profile" link, you will see what I did for a few years.

The gas fumes will still collect inside the air filter. You do need to cap the fitting as the valve will stay open without the linkage.

Same experience here. Rock Auto is often half the price of local in Canada, and sometimes only a third of the price of local. Shocking really. I even find that their shipping has gotten faster in the last while. I can order as late as Sunday afternoon, and still have the parts on my doorstep by Thursday. That's impressive. They often ship to me from a warehouse in Upstate NY, but I recently had a part shipped from California (the opposite end of the continent from me in NS) and I still had the item in 5 days. I've ordered thousands of dollars worth of parts from them the past few years and I haven't had anything wrong yet. The way I see it is if (when?) they do me wrong, it will probably have been worth it. Still, all good things come to an end...lol, so they will eventually sent me a wrong part. I ordered a rebuilt ZF power steering pump for my project car, the old one was completely shot. The rebuilt didn't work either so I notified them, they required I pre-pay for the replacement, and as soon as they got the defective one back and the rebuilder (A1 Cardone) verified the defect, I would receive a credit. They did, Cardone verified it was bad and the credit was issued. I still have the core as the return shipping is more than it's value and RA essentially said it wasn't worth returning. I have gotten a number of parts for the Chrysler from them, valve lash adjusters, injectors, Champion spark plugs, hoses etc.

It opens the external (fitting) bowl vent at idle, then closes it as you come off idle. Eliminating it will actually cause the carburetor to possibly run rich at cruise and definitely at WOT. Capping the fitting will eliminate that, but as someone else on here discovered, hot restarts due to gas fumes inside the air cleaner can make them a problem. Truck will run super rich for a bit until the fumes are purged. My personal recommendation is this: the evaporative system is a "neutral" emission device, it doesn't harm nor really affect the engine unless it is totally screwed up (GM has famous for the system on the feedback carbs having a valve that when it failed the engine would barely run). The system, unless it is completely removed (tanks vented to atmosphere) will simply keep you from smelling gas fumes even in a closed garage. Therefore, leave it in place and functional. Air pumps, EGR valves, Catalytic converters all can and do affect engine performance and if you do remove them keep in mind in some areas, it is against the law to remove or defeat them, your call on that.

Looks good so far sir. Voltmeter vs Ammeter - Voltmeter displays the system voltage as available at the ignition switch, normal is 13.8-14.5 for a good alternator, battery voltage at key on should be a bit over 12 (keep in mind (a) these are approximate and (b) these gauges are not precision). Once the engine is started the voltage should come up to above 12, preferably around 13, depending on state of charge, amount of cranking and on a Diesel how long the glow plugs were/are on, the voltage will drop each time they cycle the voltage may not jump up at once. Some alternators have a "soft start" regulator to keep from slipping the belt due to a sudden load. If the belt breaks, alternator stops charging or a fusible link or fuse protecting the alternator fails, the voltmeter will show a drop in the voltage (at night your lights will get dimmer). Ammeter, in the real world an ammeter would show (and Chrysler's did) power into or out of the battery, however, high loads such as the heater/AC blower on high will show as an increased charge rate, but it isn't, it is showing how much of the alternator output is running the blower. On older vehicles with generators, you would see the meter go to discharge at stoplights, and if the voltage regulator stuck, it would go way into discharge. Because alternators will charge fairly well at idle, automakers decided that a voltmeter is a better indicator of correct function than an ammeter, however for most uses, the simple "charge indicator" light is adequate, because if it stays on, you have a problem, but on some vehicles a burned out bulb can result in a "no charge" condition.

I could probably do something like that. I've already written up an overview in this thread on FTE. I'd want to rewrite some of it because I've learned more since then, but it gives me an easy starting place. I'm not sure that I can promise much on pictures, diagrams, links, videos etc. though. I have a few links to other people's videos and explanations that I think are pretty good, so I can use those. But that's not a lot, and I'm not promising that I'll dig enough to find a lot more. I just looked at that thread on FTE, interesting. I have only had personal experience with the Ford Traction Loc (in Darth) and a Detroit "silent" locker (in my 1966 GT350) That was interesting to drive until you got used to it. It drove the slower turning wheel and the faster one was prone to unlock with a "bang", straightening out under power, another "bang" coupled with a "tail wag". Straight line, dump the clutch and the car would actually lift the front wheels slightly off the ground (I didn't believe it until a friend who drag raced showed me). The locker plus the ability to lift the front wheels meant that in first you better have the hood pointed where you wanted to go. The friend did take the car to our local drag strip as we were building an H-modified Chevy Nova with a Clifford built 292 Chevy truck engine and he wanted some seat time in a reasonable fast car (Shelby went mid 12s). It's amazing what nearly 400 hp in a 2800 lb car can do. We also a number of years later found that at 137 mph the front end got light enough to be scary.

Your experience with a Walker tailpipe is reminiscent of my experience years ago on my 1971 Colony Park. It wasn't Walker but I believe it was Goerlick (don't remember the spelling) who make the mufflers for Midas. I needed a tailpipe for the big beast, only engine options for the 1971 Colony Park were, 351 2V, 429 2V and 429 4V. Car had a 429 2V when I bought it to replace a 1970 1/2 Falcon wagon my oldest son destroyed (hooked a bumper on a parked car with the right rear wheel well, ripping it open into the spare tire well). The Colony Park, even though it is a Mercury, is on the Ford wagon body/chassis so is shorter than the Mercury Sedans. Some marketing genius decided to consolidate the tailpipes for the wagons. As a result they now only had a 1 7/8" tail pipe. If my memory on it is right, the Ford wagon with the 240 engine had a 1 1/2", the 302/351 engines had a 1 7/8" and the 390 and 429 had a 2 1/4". This would cut my exhaust cross section down by almost 3/4. When I asked how it was supposed to fit in a muffler made for a 2 1/4" pipe, I got you'll had to use an adapter. I went to the shop right next to the parts store and had them put duals on it.

If my garage was brick or concrete block instead of steel, I might add a propane furnace (no natural gas here except cow farts). I will eventually have one portion with heat and AC, the office, bathroom and wood shop area. Since it got up to the mid 40s yesterday and mid 50s today, I got my audio system sorted, had a couple of same color wires in the wrong place and Friday I had decent sound on the left side and since I had the battery charger on low a hum on the right side. I went back through the harness plugs and tried it today, that 2001 Sebring convertible 6 channel Infinity amp sounds terrific! Ground the orange top down equalizer mode wire, sound shifts more toward the front and seems to have more depth to it. Crutchfield gave me a good package on the speakers, fronts have to be shallow due to the window coming down right behind them, even the little ones on top of the dash are coaxial. The rear ones were originally open into the top well area in back, they provided some nice molded foam enclosures for them.

Did you know that they are now making kits to make LS platform engines look like older GM engines for retrofits? I wont flood with a bunch of photos but heres a couple of the items that are offered. Such as this late 50s early 60s Rochester fuel injection setup Or the Mark IV big block look Or the 348/409 look Some of the other things they offer are the lifter valley tray with a oil fill/breather tube, a mock distributor that bolts on the back of the engine and you mount your coil packs down low on the frame rail and the coil wires run up to the distributor on the inside then you have traditional plug wires from the distributor to the coils themselves. I dont know why Ford hasnt done anything like that to make their late model engines look more retro for people that are installing them in older vehicles. Me I am doing it the old fashion way by going with a newer block but back dating everything else to look early 80`s when internally its late 80s and newer. Rusty, they have a kit to use a distributor on an LS if you don't want the computer and individual coils. The humorous part, it's a Ford distributor.

I know all about GM's Turbo-Hydramatics, having owned a few and modified a couple of Chevy ones to use the switch pitch converters that Buick, Cadillac and Oldsmobile used. One was a friend's Corvette autocross car, I just put a toggle switch on the console next to the shifter, put a valve body kit in that made it act like a Ford (1,2 the D) so it could be manually shifter in 1 and 2. He would leave it high angle 1 or 2 for a parking lot event, and use all 3 on our Solo II events at an unused airfield. At high angle it had roughly a 2500 rpm stall speed, low angle was around 1500. Gm had them set up so that the car idled in high angle to reduce creep, went to low angle as soon as the throttle was touched, then back the high angle shortly before kickdown. That was the "click" you were listening for.

You also smell like burned kerosene and it gets in your clothes.

Stuart Layne, the Holley Tech Rep, walked into Preston one day as I was attaching a 1966 Buick Riviera throttle lever (Early Q-jets were conceived as universal with the throttle lever held on with two screws and two little posts for positive location) to one of the new that year 650 double pumpers, I had already installed an automatic choke on it, saved from one we put a manual choke kit on. He hung around and watched me get it installed, adjust the stator/kickdown switch for the TH400, make a choke tube from the right side exhaust manifold on the nailhead 425, and fire it up. Damn thing would smoke the tires with no problem, but nailheads had lots of low end torque.

Since it has been colder than a well diggers posterior here, I haven't done anything in the garage, even though I know the torpedo heater will bring it up the tee shirt temperatures at 10° ambient, I just didn't feel like subsidizing the local kerosene dealer. I spent some time making a fuse box chart label for the inner lower left side of the dash. The area is covered with an external panel with twist release and a snap clips. There was a black on white plastic label for the 16 slot 1989 fuse box, I wanted to use the 1990 one as it came with the wiring harnesses and has each low and high beam headlamp circuit individually fused. Don't pay too much attention to the fuses in it, I just was snapping them in to any active slots for an idea of how many I needed. Mirror is for the automatic day/night mirror as it uses a photocell to tell it when to dim.

I will warn you, if the Carter/Weber/Magneti Marelli lever is as hard as a Holley one, have fun drilling and tapping it. I think I remember the Holley rep telling me they were case hardened. Interesting Story, either when I owned Preston or was still in partnership with Fred Pennington, the Holley rep came in one day and said "I have a present for you" and handed me an NOS in the box R-3259-1 carburetor. That was the OEM single 4 barrel on the 1966 GT350s. I asked what he wanted for it, he said, "nothing, I think it's fair payment for the ideas I got from you". My ideas, Holley got, the add on automatic choke kit, the add on linkage adapters for MoPARs, the Ford kickdown linkage throttle shaft (I would steal them from scrap cores).

Well, labor is real cheap in Mississippi, hope they can find qualified workers there.

Jim - Hadn't seen that. Where on the east coast? I would suspect near Charlotte as that's where most of the NASCAR teams are. Another company bailing on California.

Probably now owned by Stellantis along with Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram, Fiat, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Peugeot, Renault, and probably some others. Does that mean Gary has a Fiat instead of a Ford?

Gee, Gary, I thought you said that was an Edelbrock carburetor, but the bowl say "Magneti Marelli" the makers of Fiat electrics, who are somewhere below Lucas on reliability. I would gather that since the speed control now works nicely that you were correct in the assumption that the cable was the problem.

I used to keep a few in stock at Preston, the kickdown lever was the piece you had to have for an automatic transmission Ford.

1850-3 is a later version of the old R-1850 600 cfm, originally used on 1958 Lincoln and Mercury 430 ci engines. The 1850-3 was a hand choke version with a "universal" (read Chevrolet) throttle shaft.

From a nipple on the inlet hose behind the MAF sensor. Jim, the MAF system has to see all air that enters the engine, even the older EEC-IV systems did this. The PCV valve is a small "leak", but at idle is a noticeable percentage of the total volume.