85lebaront2

You also definitely have to factor in wind drag, 5th wheel was 11'6'' high at the front, I did have an air deflector on top of the cab which helped. The reason I asked was for information in case my brother asks about towing with his EB 150.

Gary, I will just ask one thing, percentage wise how much fuel economy does the EB lose towing a heavy load? Darth would drop 20% from 10 average to 8 towing a 30 ft 10K 5th wheel, worst was running roughly 70 into a 35 mph head wind towing said 5th wheel, got 7 that run. Had some running issues with the Konvertible last Saturday and finally got a chance to dig into it today, found a hard plastic line had come out of the multiple connector and it just happened to be the one to the MAP sensor. Fixed it and finished what I had started Last Saturday, charging the AC system, a complete R134a system with electronic ATC. While I was balancing the charge, it got a little high on pressure and my high speed fans came on, pressure dropped almost instantly. System works a lot better than the 1985 I tried converting to R134a and had to go back to R12 as I couldn't keep a compressor belt on it. The dual pusher fans work great!

An impact wrench is the best way to get the nuts off the shafts, usually the pulleys will slide off after that.

It is adjustable, but chances are the switch may be bad, There are 4 wires going to it and on my 1986 the plug was at the transmission crossmember to frame attachment on the driver's side. The switch is a curved plastic assembly and requires removal of the downshift linkage. Don't mind the backwards switch position or strange linkage, I was in the process of switching to a 1996 interior and had to adapt the cable shifter to the existing C6. Hole circled is for setting the switch, the new one will come with a pin in that hole to hold the switch in the neutral position. It is installed and the pin removed after tightening it down.

Rusty, considering the pressure the Chrysler turbo engines run (55 static, rising on mine to 70 under full boost) any leak can get messy and with the #1 exhaust port under the connection to the fuel rail, potentially a flaming mess.

One thing I will warn you, I learned the hard way on my 1985 LeBaron convertible. The worm clamps will (a) cut into the hose and (b) work loose. I was lucky, it never caught fire but was constantly leaking at the clamped joints. I found some very nice clamps on Amazon. These are for the 5/16" line Chrysler uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU0HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe it was Larry, Moe and Curly?

The use of the relay is due to Ford's wiring on these trucks not being designed to feed a full 12V @ the required current draw of an HEI system. GM typically used a 8 or 10ga wire to feed them. The ignition switches on our trucks are not designed to handle this current nor are the ignition feed wires. A Bosch style square box relay is rated 40 amps feed through on the normally open (closed when energized) contacts, sockets are available usually around the lighting and electrical areas in parts stores. Just be leery of Chinese knockoffs. Dave is correct, most of the "painless" wiring I have seen is spelled Chevrolet as far what it fits.

Jim, you are probably old enough to remember the cruciform frame GM products, I know Gary is since he owned a W head Chevy. The exhaust on those went under the frame front kickup then followed the lines of the frame with the mufflers near the front and when the exhaust system got to the rear up and over the axle and straight or angled for exit. The hangers were behind the mufflers at the front so the weight of the mufflers pulled down on the pipes. The real fun was watching a more powerful engine (348/409) twist on the flimsy mounts and bring the left side muffler up against the floor and nearly drag the right side on the ground. The point here is the further out the pipes run, the greater the movement under load. Sometime I will see if I can do a good drawing of what I designed for my 1977 F150 when I put the 390 in it. Another option is to look at what Ford did with the mid 1984 - 1987 460s where it is dual to the muffler.

I can't say if the bracket would need modifying, but on a 3G alternator, if you can use the large case (Gary has the measurements somewhere) a 1994-95 Taurus is a good source, the 3.8L ones had 130 amp alternators that fit in place of the large frame 1 and 2G models and if you get one in a junkyard, grab as much of the pigtail as you can, at least as far as the main harness across the top of the radiator.

Wise guy huh, I can ask some of my friends about the chickens. Stout bottom end is definitely correct, I ran 14 psi boost on it for roughly 200 hp from 135 ci, some of the people with these T2 engines run 20 psi or more which will push 300 hp out of them. The T3 engines were DOHC and ran even more power at high rpm, but were very hard on timing belts due to only having about 90° wrap on each of the cam sprockets and a smaller intermediate sprocket that spun the oil pump faster. Since they had a DIS system, a failed oil pump drive gear wasn't instantly obvious as it is on the T1, T2 and T4 engines all of which use a distributor. An FYI, the T4 Chrysler engines are also referred to as VNT, for Variable Nozzle Turbocharger. Sound familiar?

If you look closely at the 1st step on the crank. that is where the seal rides. It had surface rust on that area and most of the oil was coming out there. I polished it with 220 and 400 emery paper before reinstalling the seal housing. That engine package was developed in conjunction with Chrysler's engineers by a Texas Chicken Farmer who was repaying the favor Lee Iaccoca did for him about 23 years earlier. There were even special packages on some of the cars along with a batch assembled in Wittier CA (Randy, GLHS60) owns one.

Forgot to add this the other day. This is the engine bottom end with the pan off: Note the ARP studs on the main caps. Crank is a forged steel one and the rods are actually 1989 2.5L turbo ones, apparently released in 1988 for the turbo II 2.2L engines.

There is a place near NW Atlanta, Mustang Farm Restoration Services, Lee Mathias owns it. He is a friend from way before FB, he and I were both president of Beach Ford Mustang Club. I am sure he still has his 1965 Shelby GT350, unfortunately I had to sell my 1966 as I had 3 kids and needed the money. He probably knows someone who can make lines for custom applications. Just tell him Bill Vose referred you.

Thats good to know then. I was curious about it at the time, but seeing as I already talked the guy down $50 on his price and committed to buying and actually already paid for the NOS oil pan its something that I cant change now. But it would have made life easier on me putting a windage tray in but I skipped the windage tray cause I kept hearing that main studs wont fit with the OE truck pan as youll have to use bolts on the rear main as the pan kicks towards the sump fairly quickly in an attempt to act as a baffle to keep the pickup submerged at angles. Youd think they would make a windage tray kit that uses OE style bolts with a stud coming up off the head of the bolt. They use one for the oil pump pickup tube and the windage tray isnt anything to write home about structurally no different than the oil pump pickup. Its also like ARP, I would love to get the timing cover/water pump bolt kit they sell but I dont see any OE style bolts with the stud on the top I have to double check my truck but I believe there is one or two like that for the dealer A/C bracket to bolt to via a nut. The other thing I am kind of throwing around in my head lately is on the painting. Initially I had planned on assembling the motor as much as possible and using Eastwood 2K engine primer and 2K dark ford corporate blue on everything from aluminum intake to my ARP aluminum heads down to the oil pan. But now I am wondering if I should omit the intake manifold and pick up some 2K engine paint in an aluminum color to preserve the bare look of the aluminum intake. Im also wondering how I could grind the intake down to remove the 289 off the intake runner as I really dont like how the 289/302 Performer Intake still says Performer 289. Would have got the one that said Performer 302 but it lacks the extra boss for drilling into the water jacket for an extra temp sensor which I need for my Sniper Stealth, then the vacuum port in the back of the intake is right where the OE throttle bracket will go which means I cant hook up my OE vacuum tree to provide vacuum for my OE systems like the brake booster and the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Was kind of forced into running the Performer I got which sucks, I know I can grind the 289 off and in fact i could grind the Performer name off as well but not sure how I could duplicate the cast aluminum texture where I grind to blend it all in but I have time to think on this as I am still waiting on my engine stand to come in as my current engine stand is still being used for my other project and I still havent got my short block from Creb Engineering I dont know whats going on but I dont want to bother him with constant emails so I am waiting till the 30 day time frame is up to contact him and see whats going on with my build. I know its quite possible he is back logged waiting on parts, lots of parts are out of stock right now when you go looking on jegs or summit. Rusty, Summit lists the 460 pan as a "foxbody swap" item, yet in cross referencing the SPI number it is the late truck EFI 460 pan and dipstick, tube and pickup along with the one piece gasket. As for the short "kickup" on the 460s the left side exhaust pipe passes under there (which makes removing the pan in chassis a royal pain). Ford was at least concerned enough about heat to have a shield welded to the exhaust Y pipe there.

This is why Ford started changing their underhood and chassis connectors to weatherproof styles. Chrysler used similar underhood, but packed them with grease.

Damn, Spectra Premium doesn't have a pan for it? The ones for the 460s are late 90s design with the push in dipstick tube and come from Ford Racing with one piece gasket, pickup, main cap bolt with pickup stud, dipstick tube and dipstick.

Well, discovered a problem on the engine. After (a) being originally assembled 17 years ago and then sitting covered up but outside for 6 years and (b) as a result some rust on the seal area of the crank snout, I found I had a nice "rust proofed" right side of the lower firewall and floor pan. Everything came apart reasonably well until the crank sprocket for the timing belt at which point I was stuck. Chrysler decided in 1988 to change from 4 to 5 the number or 8mm bolts holding the crank pulley to the sprocket and at the same time make the sprocket a press fit on the crank. I had made a tool for doing this when I was still working, but was unable to find it when we were emptying the garage (I may have loaned it to a machine shop that went through a change of hands as they had several 1988 up Chrysler 2.2/2.5L cranks to grind). The Chrysler tool is available used from $190 - over $300! Since the sprocket has 5 bolts that screw into it, no normal puller will work, the "cheat" is to use a 3/4-16 puller bolt through the nice thick crank pulley and a nut then 5 8mmX1.25 bolts into the sprocket and something that will pass through the center to push against. The factory tool has a piece of hard bar stock the puller screw acts against. Now comes the other problem, the 1988 engine short block is a one year only oddity in that area, the crank snout is smaller OD than either the 1987 using the 4 bolt sprocket or the 1989 "common block" engines, and to compound it, the OD of the pilot for the crank pulley is larger, about 1" OD instead of closer to 3/4" OD so the nut behind the pulley requires a sturdy washer. I finally got it off so I can replace the seal after carefully polishing the seal area on the crank. There are 3 identical seals on the "front" of the engine, crank, intermediate shaft and cam. While I have all that off, I am also replacing the timing belt and correcting a small mistake I made when I built it, the intermediate shaft drives the oil pump and distributor, I did not get the oil pump drive gear properly timed to the shaft, so had to rotate the intermediate shaft sprocket to allow enough rotation of the distributor to set the timing as the location of the shutter in relation to the pickups is critical (turbo engines have a "window" in one shutter to tell the computer which is #1 cyl). Timing belt replacement requires disassembly of the right motor mount, but since the powertrains were installed from below, that mount is in two parts which does simplify timing belt replacement.

There used to be a couple of companies that made "universal" lines that used heavy wall hose and clamp retained fittings. Murray was one of them and I can't remember the other. If you have a custom AC shop in your area, or possibly a place that makes high pressure hydraulic lines they may be able to do them. The other option is look into the companies that make AC systems for custom cars. Many of these are 40s and 50s vehicles that either never had AC from the factory or it was extremely rare. They will have lines, fittings and even bulkhead penetrations.

Gary, a bit of trivia for you, an engine will stop in the same places, on a 4 cyl there will be 2 worn areas on the ring gear. 6 cyl will have 3 and an 8 cyl 4. These are where the compression of the next cyl in sequence stops the crank from turning. The other issue, as the teeth on the ring gear wear, the ones on the starter drive also wear and since it is spinning as it is forced into the ring gear (more common on Bendix inertia drives and the Ford moveable pole piece starters), it plays milling machine to the teeth on both until finally the worn down end of the starter drive gear and ring gear reach a point where they will not engage. This sometimes is evident by a grinding noise, or even a grating like a bad synchroniser makes. The other failure is the overrunning clutch in the starter drive, it can fail, or stick in the freewheel condition. This usually manifests as a whine or squeal from it. The more modern starters such as the Ford PMGR and the interesting ones some of the imports and Chrysler use along with GM, are solenoid shifted and the contacts that turn on the motor are not connected until the two gears have at least partially meshed, this alleviates a lot of the gear damage. Even a lot of small engines are going this way from the Bendix inertia drives to solenoid shifted starters, frequently with permanent magnet motors.

Now all you need is Wile E Coyote chasing the roadrunner.... The only diodes I see in that diagram are the two in the tank selector valve as part of the motor feed circuit.

There will be a voltage at T with the engine running, but it should be lower than 12V due to the resistance wire and the current load of the fuel pump. If the pump is not in the circuit due to failure or an open circuit, than you will show 12V. If you don't believe it, try this at the coil. Key on, engine off, unplug the "horseshoe" and measure the voltage on the + side, it will be 12V, plug it in and see what it reads, it will be closer to 6V. Since the wiring has been intercoursed with, I would see if the resistance wire is even there. The value is given in the EVTM. On a side note, I just found I still have the engine part of the fuel pump wiring.

Damn that pump and brackets look familiar.

Rusty, if the mechanical pump is just going to be a dummy, a couple of thoughts. Ford had a pump with an integral canister filter (it was replaceable) that might be a possibility. On using a dummy for fuel to pass through, if you can find one of the older pumps that screw together it would be easy to gut it, replace the diaphragm with a plate and gaskets and if it has the telltale "weep" hole, block it so oil won't come out.

Last Gabriels I had were OEM on the 1966 Shelby GT350s. I am using Monroe on Darth as (a) lifetime warranty and (b) Since I had Tenneco stock from when they owned NNS I do try to buy from companies I own a small piece of. I did find, when my Sears RoadHandler Performance LT Gas rear shocks wore out (also lifetime) that Monroe, who made them for Sears, had several different options, SRW, DRW, then 2WD and 4WD versions. They were replaced with new Monroe shocks obtained from Advance Auto.