85lebaront2

Probably not, only difference might be where it's made, and there's no longer a guarantee the Motorcraft one isn't made there too. I guess I might want to get one in case I find another YC2F unit (this one has to go back on the E250).

FWIW, I have my wideband O2 sensor on Darth where the factory single O2 sensor on the OBD-I EFI 460s is. With the E4OD it is back just in front of the catalytic converter flange.

Gary, Motorcraft WPT-1091 is the 6 cavity MAF connector. This will allow either the XL3F or the F5OF to be used, just parallel the IAT sensor leads so either can be used, or just don't use the one in the MAF.

Price is a major determining factor but that price point will come down. When Holley introduced their aftermarket EFI that system was pushing $4,500 - $5,500 for the setup. You can now buy a Sniper or Sniper stealth EFI system for under $1,500 or you can buy their Terminator for roughly $1,500 that will plug and play with the OE ECC IV system but replace the Ford computer with the Holley computer that allows for easy tuning. If my sniper Stealth doesnt provide me with what I need I may very well replace the unit with a Foxbody era factory EFI intake system and swap over to the Terminator wiring and computer system. I avoided that because for me it would end up being more work but I didnt triple check so I may have more work for myself anyways as far as throttle and kick down rod goes for my application which I wanted to avoid by going with a carb like TBI setup. Rusty, the Holley Terminator, does it provide transmission control functions? I ask for two reasons, Rembrandt is planning on a 4R70 or 75W which is computer controlled and I have an E4OD in Darth. With the EEC-V systems the computer can be tuned using the correct software and hardware.

First item, the XL3F-12B579-BA was also used on Mustang GT 4.6L, Trucks with the 5.4L (I one sitting here from my best friend's 2003 E250 5.4L). The XL3F has the IAT sensor built in, but I see no reason it could just not be used and keep the existing air filter mounted one. In the event the XL3F MAF doesn't work well, then switching back would be easy. Since the connector on the MAF has the four pins for the MAF in the center, and if the IAT is in it, the two unused end pins are installed and the harness connectors have provision for six pins with the two end ones blanked if not used. The E250 unit is inside the air filter assembly with an external round eight pin plug for connecting to the vehicle harness. The tuning software has the provision to import a different MAF table. FWIW, the used F5OF unit I purchased on eBay is plastic but has the same actual sensor as the metal one. I am going to look for a connector for the MAF sensor with the built in IAT and add it onto Darth so I can use one of those MAFs and unplug the air filter IAT.

That is not necessarily the only difference, the depth of the starter pinion into the clutch/converter housing also may vary, it definitely does on the 460s.

I got my eBay F5OF sensor (complete) in the mail today. It has the F5OF sensor on a plastic housing. Tag attached says 96 - 05 5.4L F150.

Randy, you hit the nail on the head on lack of performance. The 1985-86 302 truck heads are the worst heads Ford ever used on the Windsor engines (221-351W).

I believe my son determined that the 1990 Lincoln Town car 5.0L PMGR starter fits the 300 six and 302/351W V8s with automatic transmissions. He worked for LKQ corp at the time.

It does come in through that grille and it was a know issue resulting in a change in 1987 to a "pinhole" style. You can remove the grille carefully (lower windshield trim has to come off) and put some screen under it and reinstall the grille, works quite well and isn't really visible.

Not sure if you were looking at the Quick 2, 4 or 6, but I have the Quick 2 controlling my E4OD. I bought the controller, harness and a TPS for a Holley carb for $780 last fall, so these prices have come down considerably. I think the controller alone was about $540. I do not believe any of those were out at the time I started planning this and executing it. I purchased the parts truck in March 2006 and started the serious execution in late 2010 and as I said, at the time it would require two separate aftermarket systems at roughly $1500 - $2000 each, then I would still have to purchase an E4OD. I also had to have a pair that could talk to each other. Buying the 1990 F250 gave me a running package for $850 with the added advantage of front sheet metal and wiring harnesses. I took the 1990 rear chassis harness and added the 35" to make it fit a crew cab. After I had decided on using the 1996 interior I changed the front end from the 4 round 8 pin connectors and one round 4 large pin connector to the oval 24 pin one in the firewall. The original continuous dash/front harness was replaced with the 1996 front harness with a 76 pin connector through the firewall to the 1996 dash harness. The EEC is mounted as close as I could get it to the 1992-97 location, almost in the left air box and it's 104 pin connector is right next to the 76 pin one. Cost on a lot of this has come way down, but another consideration for me, I do not like TBI systems, they are nothing more than a pressure carburetor (WWII aircraft engine usage) and not true fuel injection.

So what does the Cardone sensor say on it "Made in China"? I guess just like the distributor. On getting the assembly, maybe they were out of loose sensors and sent an assembly. BTW, I looked at my still disassembled distributor, there is no lower bushing so the shaft does have side play at the bottom, once in the engine the shaft pilots in the block.

I looked at the options when deciding what I wanted to do on Darth, in theory I could run an AOD with adapter behind a 460. Problem is 6400 lb truck that can tow 10,000 lbs + a load. Having owned a truck with a 300 and C4 and knowing that the AOD innards aren't much bigger than a C4 I knew I needed something beefier. I found in researching things that an E4OD is a wide ratio C6 with an OD gear set in front of that and a lock up torque converter. Problem #1, E4OD stands for Electronic 4 speed Overdrive, the key word being electronic. At a minimum it requires a stand alone controller which at the time I was researching it, only Baumann controls built one and it was at that point $1500. I also wanted to resolve the issue with hard starting after sitting, hard to find in-tank fuel pumps, leaky valve cover gaskets, dual air pumps and affiliated plumbing, weak FS-6 AC compressor and a few other issues due to the shoehorn job Ford had to due fitting the 460 in that chassis. Additionally the damage where the previous owner "parked by feel". I discovered a friend had a 1990 F250 he wanted to sell, it had a problem with #5 cylinder using oil and had been told it was a problem with the cylinder head. We agreed on a price of $850 and he would deliver it from Virginia Beach to Newport News. It had good front sheet metal and the 460/E4OD combination. Win - Win. I swapped the top end of the engine over after finding no problem with the heads (they had been rebuilt) Oil consumption was caused by bad rings in #5, which is a chronic problem on the SD/BF 460s probably due to fuel rail design, firing order and heat. I swapped the C6 for the E4OD, had the front half of the driveshaft shortened and stripped the 1990 truck as much as I could use. I was going to use the steering column and dash, but found that I could use a newer (1995/1996) dash and stub column along with the newer parking brake self adjusting pedal. This solved the computer to run the transmission issue. I was digging into tuning both engine and transmission using a TwEECer and was having a problem finding anything as far as what and how for tuning when I was contacted in a Yahoo group, EEC Tuner by one of the principles in Core Tuning LLC who sold me a package consisting of an EEC-V computer, tuning software and a cable to interface with an OBD-II test port so that is what I have, and what Gary has, except he doesn't need the E4OD capability.

A couple of things, first, the earlier Ford systems are what is called "speed density" these use a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor that along with a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and engine RPM let the computer decide how much fuel is needed. The other sensors used are ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor and IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. These will modify the fuel program, richer with lower temperatures, leaner with higher temperatures. These systems were the EEC-IV (Electronic Engine Control 4) The SD truck systems were all what is called "bank fired" meaning the injectors, even though there are 6 or 8 of them are fired in banks of either 3 or 4 depending on the engine. Supposedly the F100s with the 3.8L V6 had a TBI (Throttle Body Injection) system, but like carbureted 1985 5.0L V8s, are a unicorn. The V8s all were wired the same way, 4 end and 4 center injectors, and the 4.9L sixes were split odd and even (1,3,5 and 2,4,6). In 1994 Ford started MAF (Mass Air Flow) SEFI (Sequential Fuel Injection) on 5.0L with the AOD, AOD-E, 4R70W and E4OD transmissions, manual transmission and C6 transmission models stayed SD/BF. In 1995 the same changes were made to the 5.8L engine trucks. These 1994/1995 systems still used the EEC-IV computers In 1996, OBD-II was mandated for all vehicles under 8500 lbs GVW, Ford introduced the EEC-V system which, as part of the Federal mandate, has a computer that can be "reflashed" by the dealers or anyone possessing the proper hardware and software. Prior to this, the only way to update the computer's programming was to replace it. Aftermarket companies came up with a workaround involving a piggyback tuner, examples being Moates Quarterhorse or TwEECer. The Moates unit is a board that fits inside the case and plugs into the main board where the J2 port (rubber or plastic plug) is opposite the 60 way connector, the TwEECer plugs in from the outside. One of the glitches with the TwEECer, if it comes loose with the ignition on, it can fry the computer. Advantage to the TwEECer and maybe the Moates is the ability to have multiple tunes available. Since the 7.5L engines were relegated the the over 8500 GVW trucks, other than California and some New England states, they remained OBD-I and still used the EEC-IV computers with SD/BF controls. One of the improvements with OBD-II was the change from a single O2 sensor to dual O2 sensors for the control and a 3rd one post catalytic converter for measuring efficiency. The dual, or stereo as they are sometimes called is the ability to "tweak" the mixture on individual cylinders as the system is fast enough at lower RPM to determine which cylinder was too rich or lean. Once the throttle is wide open, the system goes to a predetermine WOT program, no O2 input, essentially just rpm based using injector size, cylinder volume and a calculated air density to obtain 12.5:1 AFR (Air Fuel Ratio). On an SD system, the MAP sensor lets the computer know if the air flow is decreasing relative to the rpm as the pressure will slowly drop as the intake system approaches it's limits. The MAF will measure the air flow up to its designed limit (roughly 500 cfm for the 80mm on the 5.0 and 5.8L engines and 600 cfm for the 900mm on the 7.5L engines). Again the system at WOT runs off a set of tables of which the air density is based on what the MAF was reading, the rest are hard programmed into the computer. Other than Ford, Chrysler used SD controls up into the mid 2000s and possibly later, GM uses a hybrid system, MAP sensor for low rpm sensitivity and an MAF for higher RPM control. Chrysler only used IAT on their turbocharged and intercooled engines for a long time. Ford also had some SD/SEFI systems on cars, most went away when the Mod Motors were introduced starting in 1991 on Lincoln Town Car and 1992 on Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis.

That one if I remember correctly is composite with a steel hub so the R&R tools will work.

Shaun. there is a single groove for non-AC trucks and the double groove for trucks with AC. Apparently it was done for the fan as they only go crank, WP and PS. AC is separate, but does cross the outer groove of the WP pulley. Alternator is crank and alternator only and air pumps are run off the alternator pulley. I definitely do not miss trying to find that "matched set" for the power steering pump.

Gary, what I did won't help you. I have a 1996 column in Darth. As a result my wiring is the 1996 wiring. The wiring in the horn pad is the same and I believe if you check the electronic cruise you will find that the DG/O is a ground (speed control switch return) LB/BK is your "to speed control" that was the amplifier signal and DB of course is to the horn relay (which in 1985 was only used with speed control). In trying to dig up some other wiring possibilities, I found on a 1996 Thunderbird a "brake overtravel switch" which was a mechanical equivalent of the hydraulic switch. It was apparently in case of a brake system problem, but they were also on ABS systems.

Because it is a standardized connection, easier for Ford to build it even if the pins aren't there. If you were to connect one with the built in IAT sensor to a harness that isn't wired for it and uses a separate sensor, the system would still use the separate sensor. If you were to connect a non sensor containing MAF to a harness wired for the MAF mounted IAT then the EEC would promptly illuminate the MIL as it would be missing a needed piece of information.

I thought we had that. No? And this is one of the units with the IAT sensor in it. Right? Yes we do have it, no it is not one with the IAT in it, that is the YC2F-12B579-BA, 2003 5.4L among others. The XL3F-12B579-BA is the one I got from PNP from a V10 Excursion. The YC2F-12B579-BA was the last data I added that needs to by incorporated into the graph.

Excellent write up! Eventually I am going to have to that on Darth. He still has the original factory installed king pins at 140,000 + miles, but they have been regularly greased since April 1994 when I bought him. First time was interesting, I don't think they had been done in years if at all and getting grease into them was mission impossible. I ended up unscrewing the top plugs and filling the resulting cavity with penetrating oil and letting it sit. Axle beams were on jack stands and wheels off. After about a day the penetrating oil did it's trick and it ran out between spindle and beam. Lower side took grease well and it oozed out of the thrust bearing. I need to replace my rotors, but on a dually it isn't a fun, nor easy job.

Now all you need is the MAF transfer table for it.

My "souped up" 3G is essentially a Taurus 3.8L 130 amp 3G (which is an easy way to get one) It uses two wires, a big output wire through a 200amp megafuse and a small LG/R from the instrument cluster idiot light. I can get a 130 amp one easily (I actually have a spare) if I need it. The reason I am not a huge fan of one wire units, if your gauge, be it the original "I might actually read" unit or a converted to a volt meter one, unless you watch it on starting and keep an eye on it driving, you may not realize the alternator isn't charging. The idiot light gives a real fast "it's charging" on start up and a pretty quick "oh crap" if it quits.

Gary, doghouse is the truck front clip, with it removed, as you know getting at most of the engine is much easier. You still need the takeout from the turn signal wiring for the cruise control and the horn relay. I was cogitating on the air intake system, and wondering if I could shorten the hose from MAF to the wye and use the modified air box as I think it flowed better.

For a number of years Ford carburetors had a clamp built into the shield on the choke side that held the heater supply hose against the choke cap. This served two purposes, in cold weather it delayed the choke opening by keeping cold coolant against the cap and once the engine was warm in any weather it helped keep it open, or to reopen quickly by having warm or even hot coolant against the cap.

I may need to look into one of those, although I think when I do the engine swap on Darth, the doghouse will come off then go back on when it's bolted in. That will also allow a good frame cleaning up front to get rid of 36 years of oil leaks. Initial run in will be done without the oil cooler in the system so I can flush the lines and cooler. Here are some pictures of the original air filter I made from a 302 one for MAF. I cut the inlet "funnel" from the inside of an extra Lincoln Continental filter and carried it into the lab where we found some suitable material and grafted the parts for a 90mm MAF in place of the mount for the 80mm MAF. The aluminum angle was to regain the needed rigidity lost by removing the ribs under the MAF mounting location.