85lebaront2

Sounds good. Let me know how it turns out. I need, time, space and strong backs with weak minds to help get this installed:

The primary side of a Thermoquad works like an AFB or AVS, the step up or metering rods can be changed to increase or decrease the enrichment level. They work more like the older WCFB carbs as they have a mechanical lift mechanism that limits how far down the piston is pulled by manifold vacuum. A wideband O2 sensor would be very beneficial, I used to have to read the plugs for fine tuning (that's almost a lost art these days). The TQ, like a Quadrajet, is a quite flexible carburetor due to the small primaries, large secondaries design. One issue on these, Qjets and Holley Spread Bores, air flow needed at high speed cruise conditions. The GM powered motor homes, 454 ci engine, primary air flow on the Qjet wasn't adequate to cruise at 55 mph and once you crack the secondaries, the dashpot diaphragm would be trying to hold the air valves closed. End result, a rich condition and 4-5 mpg if you were lucky. Point of this is, figure out, or have a dyno session with your planned engine and see what it does and at what point the secondary "tip-in" occurs, the TQ does have a system to weaken the air valve dashpot vacuum at partial secondary opening as Chrysler and Carter were aware of the issue on Qjets and did this to alleviate the problem. FWIW, I had acquired a 1974 Lincoln TQ and actually ran it on my 1970 1/2 Falcon wagon 302 (I had 1965 289 4 barrel heads, 351W exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust on the car) for a while, the needed adapter restricted the flow on the secondaries so it came back off.

With or without looking at it? Just joking, yes, I can tune them, as for size, that link I thought had CFM ratings in it. Ok it wasn't that one, I will look again tomorrow as I did find a list with CFM. Holley Spread Bore, you'll give Gary a heart attack. They do well if matched up to the engine. Here is the link with sizes: https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/tq-specs/

First, it depends on which of the three styles of Thermoquad you have. The original TQ was an aftermarket only performance carburetor, offered in 850 and 1000 CFM. numbers are 4846S or SA for 850 CFM and 4847S or SA for 1000 cfm. The difference in the S and SA, the S models had pressed in jets, the SA had screw in jets. These were part of Carter's Competition series of carburetors. The first batch of OEM TQs were referred to as "air bled" as the metering system used air bleeds to help emulsify the fuel better, they were later changed to "solid fuel" versions. These OEM TQs were primarily Chrysler corporation applications (link below has the numbers, kits and jetting information) Ford used a TQ on the 1974 CA spec 460s and IHC used them also. The first versions had a vacuum only controlled metering (or as Carter called them step up rods), with the OEM applications, a cam in the throttle body and a long adjustable rod in the step up piston were added. This was particularly needed on the lean burn Chrysler engines as they ran on the ragged edge of lean misfire. Some very important items, bowl is plastic, a stuck primary main jet can ruin it trying to break it loose, under the main jets, are two little channels that fuel flows through between the jet and the metering passages in the bowl cover/air horn. These have small covers that are epoxied on from the factory. The sometimes leak. Last, the seal between the bowl cover primary metering wells and the bowl was originally an O-ring, due to leaks it was superseded by a molded two sided lip seal (you should have seen the Chrysler Newport wagon with the seals missing from the factory according to the dealer who towed it by the back bumper 30 miles to my shop) gas tank was almost dry, dipstick showed oil was way up it. https://carbkitsource.com/tech/Carter/pages/tqguide-Vaanth.html#:~:text=The%20Thermo%2DQuad%20was%20available,rated%20at%20800%2D850%20CFM.

Your sound system sounds like a nice setup. On rear speakers, the later trucks have a speaker location inboard of the door post. Maybe the later Broncos had something similar. I have done something similar on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible, a six channel amplifier from a later Sebring convertible that incorporates a top down equalizer mode.

To quote a friend "If all else fails, read the instructions." The large plastic cone shaped retainer for the wheel, is "universal" once you figure it out. On 15 and 16" single wheel rims, the point goes down through the center hole over the long carriage bolt (1/2 - 13 if i remember) and is tightened to secure the wheel to the carrier bar. On a dually rim, the dish in the wheel goes down and the cone goes large end down as the scalloped base just fits in the center of the rim. The wrench will fit to tighten it. Cone: Carrier with guide bolts: Spare on carrier: Cone installed to hold spare in place: Bottom view with carrier in place: View from right rear of spare, carrier and V5 receiver: I did find, as I had heard, that with a receiver hitch and possibly even a regular hitch, the tube has to be shortened. As for using the jack to lift the wheel and carrier, works fine on Darth, just slow.

I thought Steve was going to used the beefed up 4R70W as it is (a) already set up for 4WD and (b) more compact than an E4OD.

Buy complete wheel cylinders for the rear brakes.

The in-tank pumps are centrifugal so carefully blowing back through it should be possible. The other possible problem with these is the 6 port motor operated selector valve next to the front tank. If it is not moving into position completely it may be causing a problem. Pressure spec is 5-7 psi. I thought I had the flow rate also, but can't find it right now, it is probably only in the service manual.

I would think similar to how you did suspension, Break it down with tabs, Bezels, and the variations on them. I believe the fresh air vent option and the AC may be the same, but it might have varied by year. Then Gauges with the options, at least as far as I know the only real variation is with or without tachometer. Finally wiring, I am not sure my AllData has the connectors for the cluster on the early ones. What I do, is like the EEC connectors, an Excel spreadsheet with the pins identified as Ford did, then circuit numbers and colors. The OD cancel switch is the same one you have, it came from "Big Ugly" the 1990 F250 parts truck. Look up the bulb for a 1990 F250.

I can probably help you with it, at least some of it. Isn't it fun how this stuff evolves, at Least Ford is reasonably consistent on circuit numbers and colors on wiring, problem I usually run into is the change from dots and hash marks to stripes. I was sorting through what seems to be a 1987-89 5.0L engine harness I found while searching for pieces to send the Steve for his "Feep" project. I know it is a 5.0L harness due to the presence of a knock sensor plug, I know it is 1987-1989 due to the obvious TFI and SPOUT jumper plug near the engine front (remote TFI started in 1990) and the 4 8-pin plugs as that was only used 1987-1991, 1992-1997 has the 40 pin square plug next to the PDC, 1985-1986 5.0L EFI had the two part harness with the EEC and EEC power relay under the dash. Let me know what you would like done.

True, I got lucky on Darth, just no accelerator pump on the Holley carb due to improper assembly of the front float bowl. Oil filter adapter loose (my 1987 Horizon definitely wouldn't rust after being towed behind Darth), both rear fenders broken (part of one was in the bed). Heater return swivel fitting brazed together, timing set at 10° ATDC by the 3 day a week part time "mechanic" at the dealer in Gordonsville VA. Rear tank fuel pump DOA, front tank - "don't fill it more than 3/4, it will leak" rusted through under the not needed heat shield (installed as a blanket recall on 460 powered trucks due to ambulance fires from exhaust heat boiling gas in the front tank), Darth's went in the trash when the "new" 1990 tank was installed as that extra 35" solves the heat issue.

Not surprising, I got Darth's whole setup from junkyards. It was loads of fun to get everything to fit between the dually rim, rear tank and V5 receiver hitch.

John, the constant tension clamps are the ones that are a bear to R&R unless you have the proper pliers to use on them. Here is a website that carries them: https://belmetric.com/clamp-full-tab-constant-tension-9mm-50mm/?sku=CTC44BAND12&gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMoemhVJ_sBqPYcyeN6qWoBTlT0jzymkmxwISKcErRtE4jpXR5iRUuT4aAoobEALw_wcB I started using them on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible as I kept getting a lower radiator hose leak.

Rene', new weatherstrip and possibly new strikers (pins) for the latches will probably cure the door rattles.

The only question I would have is which side of the manifold feeds the larger portion of the intake ports?

Same thing, the "Powerglide tail". A spacer will solve it.

I do know that the vent/evaporative system in 1986 had a very small line from the tank(s) to the canisters up front. This is why I used the 1990 parts on Darth as the EFI system returns hot fuel to the active tank and the 1990 has 3/8" vent piping.

Ray, probably not on a Diesel, you should have a mechanical vacuum pump so it just pumps faster as the engine speeds up, just like my two Diesel GM cars.

That is probably because Holley decided a number of years ago to put "universal" (Chevrolet style) throttle levers on their carbs. The "Powerglide" tail hangs down in the way on an in-line engine.

I have an idea where it is, but it's not easily accessible as it is in a large container in Newport News VA. As I am not planning on building the 2.5L DOHC hybrid right away, it isn't super critical. The other item I need to figure out how to make is the spacer for the water pump pulley, or find one of the old fan spacer kits. It needs a bore on the pump side for the small pilot section of the shaft and a matching pilot on the pulley side. Probably right around 1/4" thick. I still have to figure out mounts for: AC compressor - probably front side PS pump - with a remote reservoir where ever it fits Alternator - need to get a later model one, smaller, higher output Belt tensioner - once the others are located

Haha, that's what forums like this are for...too ask questions! I can't take credit for the idea...I went to a local shop that does custom wiring and puts together ambulances and police cars, etc...and they told me to do that. I've done it on the last 3 Ford trucks and it works like a charm. The auto parts shops usually have a pretty decent selection of different length pre-made cables. FWIW, the newer trucks, the negative cable goes directly to the lower starter bolt on the V8s and the other ground is just an 8ga wire to the ground stud near the battery on the right fender near the radiator support attaching point. You really don't need a number 4 or 6 cable going to the frame as there really isn't anything that grounds though the frame, lights, HVAC fan etc. all ground at body grounds along with the head lights. If you look, there is a ground from the back of the engine to the wiper motor mounting area, and frequently another one to the firewall.

Ok, did a careful setting of the cam gears, and the crank ends up 1/3 tooth advanced, or 5.714° which converts to 2.857° retard at the cams. My TDC mark that I made on the crank seal housing using the timing marks that the cam and intermediate shaft are set to the crank so are not an absolute value so much as a setting (like cam and crank on a Ford V8). Unfortunately my degree wheel is buried somewhere in a container in Newport News. I will need it, a piston stop (easy with the head on as the plugs are centered and vertical) in order to figure out exact degrees. Here is the tensioner setting after turning the crank 8 - 10 revolutions: I got the early water pump in today, had the housing since Saturday and had already found a Ford Thermactor pump pulley for a six rib belt (probably off "Big Ugly" the 1990 parts truck). In doing a rough measurement of ODs on the original crank pulley grooved portion and the clockwise rotation water pump grooved pulley then doing the same for the VW balancer and Ford Thermactor pulley, my setup will spin the water pump 18.92% vs the original 18.18% faster than the crank so water flow should be good. I will have to make a spacer for the Ford pulley to line it up with the balancer grooves. This will allow me to use my spare FS10 compressor and either a Ford remoter reservoir PS pump or a Saginaw pump and an alternator with a 6 groove pulley and a tensioner on the return side of the serpentine belt.

Welcome. Ask away on equipment. At least two of us have had slide in campers in Ford trucks.

If you look at the head face of the intake, unless they have changed since I had one on my 260, the ports are roughly 1/3 - 2/3 with a divider across them. On the V8 ones the primary barrels connected to the smaller passages. Here is a picture of one with a Holley (unknown size) on it, note the primary barrels are outboard.