85lebaront2

Never saw that one, but Chevrolet got away with all sorts of things in NASCAR. 1963 - Mystery 427, supposed to have 50 of them, there were 25, moved from shop to shop and repainted. 1963 - Ford shows up at Daytona with the 427 High Riser engine, dual Holley carbs and teardrop hood "scoop" with air inlet screens on the back. NASCAR bans multiple carburetors 1965 - Plymouth and Dodge show up with 2nd generation Hemi, fast as all getout, I don't seem to recall them having any issue with selling them to the public, try to find a Mystery 427 Chevy engine 1969 - Ford shows up with the Boss 429 running a single Holley 4500 Dominator, Carburetor throttle size limit added, Ford allowed to run as built 1 year. Circa 1980s? - All the big 3 drop there mid size RWD platforms, GM immediately allowed to run the Lumina, Ford the Taurus with lots of protests from Chevy teams, Chrysler, no suitable FWD car aerodynamic enough other than the Imperial, Chrysler teams had to buy, gut and rebuild with no assistance from Chrysler. Every time something impacts the Chevies, Hendrick, Childress and in the past Joe Gibbs would scream until they got their way. Now with Toyota running, only Chevrolet still has a pretty well "production" pushrod V8, the Roush engine that all the Ford teams pretty well use, is very loosely based on the 351C as their only pushrod V8 is the 7.3 liter "Godzilla" truck engine, and Toyota never had a pushrod V8, just some nice DOHC 5.7L ones in the Tundra. NASCAR does seem to have finally gotten rid of the bump drafting and long strings of cars on the super speedways, I watched the World 600 and it was actual racing, and no where near the carnage that used to happen with the restrictor plates and carburetors.

I tried s bit ago on MS Edge, log in, go to post something, I'm not logged in. Now on Firefox, it's fine.

Ray, I had to actually weigh Darth to find out. His GVWR is 10,000 lbs, his empty weight (both tanks near fumes and only an aluminum camper shell on or in the truck) was 6400 lbs. That gives me a 3600 lb capacity. Now add 38 gals of gas, weight of anyone in the cab and you would be surprised how quick you end up with 3600 lbs. Just be glad we don't have Ram trucks, guy had a big slide-in camper on a Ram 3500 dually, frame broke right at the back of the cab. FWIW, Gary and I were comparing some specific details on BB and Darth. BB's rear GAWR is a bit less than Darth's but BB's rear springs are the same code (K) as Darth's, his axle is coded as a lower GAWR, possibly due to single vs dual rear wheels. I have only had the factory overload rear springs actually in contact with their pads when towing our 10,000 lb 5th wheel (8800 empty, 10,000 gross).

First, are the fusible links connected to the battery side of the starter relay? Second, are they still good? Third, how are you checking for power? Fourth, are your ground cables connected to the engine block and also frame and cab with the braided straps?

I remember the 15/16 scale Chevelle.

The reason you only have 6 wires, 2 were only for the 4WD "shift on the fly" version. If you have a multimeter, you can identify the wires using it. At the switch, pins 6 and 7 are only connected in reverse, 6 should be black with a pink stripe and that is power to the backup lights (wire should be there as the C6 used it) 7 is purple with orange, and again, should be there as the C6 used it also, that one should be powered with the key on. Pins 5 and 8 are the starter safety swich and should be connected in P and N only. Those wires should be there as the C6 used them also. On the driver's side frame, near where the C6 crossmember atached, there should be a harness plugged in that went to the C6 neutral safety/backup light switch. It should have those 4 wires in it. Then there may be one or more in the harness.

Read what the description says pin 1 - circuit 298 (Ford circuit number on a wiring diagram) backup lights power from ACC feed (through ignition switch from battery) This will be powered in run and accesory, but not when cranking. These refer to the square 16 pin connector, C103 in post #8 C110 I have also seen as a 4 pin connector. On item, Ford pretty much sticks to the same numbers and colors for years.

In my case, first, I have owned Darth since April 1994. I have updated a number of things (converted to MAF/SEFI from carbureted, gone from a C6 to an E4OD, upgraded the rear brakes to 12X3 1/2" wide, installed a later dash and steering column, installed a 1996 HVAC system, Lincoln Continental 10 way power seats, 4 door power windows and locks, rear limited slip installed). I have left most of the original factory exhaust as it is quite low restriction, retained the 3.55 gear, mounted my tires to a set of the 4 1994-97 dually Alcoa rims, replaced the vacuum cruise control with the later electronic one, installed the later worm gear wiper motor and controls. Installed a later day/night auto dimming rear view mirror with compass, installed a remote keyless entry with number pad and one touch down driver's window (same module). I have most of the newer conveniences without the "nanny state" stuff.

Go back to Smokey Yunick "it ain't cheatin if you don't get caught".

Darth's slider is a single section and doesn't have a latch, I guess with the motor and cable it isn't needed.

Gary, first, any independent racer is going to look for the unfair advantage, like I believe it was Dale Earnhardt's team that took one of Nascar's loop holes when the restrictor plates first started. They figured out a 305 ci engine would make more power than a 350 ci with the restrictor plates. Now there is both a minimum and maximum displacement. A while back, before my first wife passed away, I wanted to build a car for SCCA B-Sedan class I think it was. In reading the rules, I found that the 1987 Plymouth Turismo Matt had owned, literally slid sideways through the loopholes (a) compression ratio, allowed 1 point over stock, car had the same engine as an Omni GLH, 110 hp NA 2.2L engine 10:1 compression. (b) engine air intake, at the carburetor or factory location, factory location is behind the headlights on the right front. © ground effects, air dams, spoilers, allowed if factory provided, car is the Omni/Horizon 2dr hatchback and has a chin spoiler, small rear spoiler on the hatch, and ground effects. (d) wheels can be increased 1" in size, stock were 14" with 60 profile tires. Since the front valence us molded rubber with a big steel bumper bar in the middle, the bottom would push back at speed, so it would need some reinforcement (read closed off at the bottom with sheet metal), how much ram effect would that give into the Holley/Weber 2 barrel?

Smokey didn't cheat, he just looked for loopholes. A.J. Foyt was another, his theory was "cheat neat".

A lot of marine dealers carry battery tenders, trickle chargers that shut down when the voltage is reached. Good ones aren't cheap though.

Yes, on the back of the base, probably 6" OD. I also have 2 of the Sears ones, allegedly fully automatic, more like fully a royal pain (I think they must be made by Lucas).

There's always this one: That's what I have.

Ok, the lifter definitely has a slight crown, meaning it will definitely try to rotate when the cam is turning against it. The lobe looks like it may not have any angle, but with the lifters having a slight crown, it may not be needed. Follow Comp Cams break in procedure to the letter! To get the ignition timing very close, set the crank on 10° BTDC and with the key on, SPOUT unplugged, rotate the distributor counter clockwise until the Hall Effect pickup is between the vanes, then slowly rotate it clockwise until the coil fires, you may want to do it a couple of times to be sure of the point where it triggers. This should put you easily in the +/- 2° tolerance so you can run the engine for the required break-in time. Good luck with it!

Jeff, on Darth they did from when I bought him used in 1994. Lights off - blink with the turn signal, lights on - blink opposite the turn signal (go off when signal flashes, then resume afterwards).

Rene' the swirl pattern appears to me to be the normal look for a random pattern grinding. If you put a straight edge across them, is there any sort of crown to them (higher in the center)? On the cam, are the noses ( tip of the lobes) parallel to the centerline of the cam, or do they have a slight slope toward (one side higher than the other) one end of the cam? Both of these are things we used to look for on new cams and lifters.

Gary, my preferred source on these is clipsandfasteners.com, here is the part: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?searching=Y&sort=7&search=4258%20&show=45&page=1

With the exception of the horn relay wires, everything else goes straight through.

Only for activation. There was a slave cly type thing inside that moved the knob that moved across a resister that then sent power to the trailer brakes. I am sure that type controller went away when ABS brakes came out on cars & trucks. Dave ---- Dave, you are correct on both counts. I have had that one since I had my 1977 F150 and needed to use a friend's car trailer. The electronic ones were just becoming more common then. When I bought Darth, he had an electronic one with a pendulum in it to determine how much power was needed for the brakes. I was taking our 30 ft. 5th wheel back to the dealer for some warranty work not long after buying Darth, I was on US 17 in York County VA, at an area where the pavement is a little rough and had to stop for a light. Until that point the system worked pretty well, rough pavement + brakes + pendulum rheostat = pulsing trailer brakes to the point I was worried about damaging the brakes. I went back to my trailer specialist in Hampton VA and asked about a different controller. At that time (1994) the all electronic ones that were close to what a $60 hydraulic one in performance, were well over $300, they're less expensive now, but as long as this one (a) doesn't leak and (b) still works, I do not plan on replacing it.

Jeff, with the piece of harness you cut, that is the plug you need to mate with your steering column. Match the wires and splice them.

I can't recall who made them, but I had a speedometer gear correction box (set of gears to increase/decrease the effective ratio) that I had on my Shelby GT350.

Let me list what I have on the 16 pin Ford connector; Pin # 1 - circuit 298 - backup lights power, small P/O (from ACC feed) 2 - circuit 140 - backup lights feed, BK/PK 3 - circuit 481 - unknown, GY/Y * 4 - circuit 32 - to starter relay, R/LB 5 - circuit 210 - 4WD, LB/Y (probably not needed) * 6 - circuit 784 - 4WD LR, LB/BK (probably not needed) * 7 - circuit 463 - 4WD signal, R/W (probably not needed) * 8 - circuit 923 - transmission fluid temp, O/BK 9 - circuit 480 - torque converter clutch solenoid, P/Y 10 - circuit 315 - shift solenoid #2, larger P/O 11 - circuit 237 - shift solenoid #1, O/Y 12 - circuit 32 or 33 - start from ignition switch, R/LB or W/PK 13 - circuit 57 - ground, BK (only to ground circuit 463 for 4WD actuator) * 14 - circuit 924 - coast clutch solenoid, BR/O 15 - circuit 199 - range sensor signal, LB/Y 16 - circuit 925 - EPC solenoid, W/Y Without the 4WD and mystery wire (GY/Y), you are down to 11 giving you room for circuit 361, ignition power (actually fed by the PCM power relay) that is needed to power the solenoids.

Looks good, almost like it came that way! One item, on the 1983-86 trucks with a 460, there is a small heat shield on the passenger side that goes on the engine side of the AC harness under the casing. If you find you are getting heat damage, let me know, I will have to find it as I no longer need it on Darth since I am using a later front harness system.