85lebaront2

Gary, the low side definitely seems a bit high. First what condenser are you using? Darth has a 1994-1997 gas engine one. Second, what orifice tube is in it and what evaporator core (again I have the 1994-1997 one). Third, accumulator, when Darth is running the accumulator frosts up on low fan, but will go to just wet on higher speeds. Discharge temp is around 40° F at low fan (remember humidity here can hit 100%) climbing to maybe 65 at high fan. I test with a large fan blowing on the front of the vehicle to simulate driving speed.

Three items: (1) pressure too high will cause a fair bit of compressor "hum" (2) pressure too high can cause the clutch to slip and squeal or chirp on engagement (3) pressure too high can and will result in poor cooling FWIW, I can darn near hang meat in Darth with twice the cabin area BB has, but, I did a fair amount of insulating under the carpet, on the firewall, and the 1996 doors have insulated cards or panels whichever term you prefer.

It definitely sounds like compressor noise. Have either you or the shop tried the old screwdriver stethoscope trick? I was looking to see if the idler/tensioner was bouncing in the second video, it isn't. What do the pressures look like? Are they reasonably steady or noticeably pulsing at lower rpm?

Yes, in all of them, I was driving. BTW, picture as it sits now, is from the current owner, located in Sydney NSW Australia. Yes, I miss it, but it was a case of 3 kids and needing the money.

And to spice up the mix, here are some more Shelby related pictures: SFM6S2050, the GT350 I owned for 11 years and collected a number of trophys with. Yes, in the last picture there are two 465 cfm Holley four barrels under that air filter. Now for some action shots: The first 2 were taken on the runways at Suffolk VA airfield at an SCCA SoloII event, fast enough I was into 4th on one portion. first one is rounding "Corvette Corner", named because 19 of the first 20 cars spun on it (#20 was another Shelby), second one is entering the slalom after Corvette Corner, note the attitude of the front, it was rasied from the power as I was in 2nd with all 8 barrels open. 3rd one is a parking lot autocross behind a now gone shopping center. And now, what it currently looks like fully restored to the "as built" condition: Here it was as the page head picture on the Facebook United '64 1/2 - '73 Mustang Enthusiasts International Forum hosted by Shasta Mustang Supply:

Gee, Gary who told you about the issue with the EFI intake?A few interesting items, first go back to the early 80s, Lee Iaccoca, the father of the Mustang, was fired from Ford because he was felt to be getting too powerful and wasn't part of the family. When he was fired, all the projects he was working on were scrapped, one of which was a new, smaller FWD sedan. Iaccoca took the concept with him, but since Chrysler, who promptly hired him, didn't have any decent small engines, neither 4 nor V6, and even their small V8 was a porker compared to the Windsor family, so much so that when Chrysler bought Rootes Group, the 273 was so much bigger and heavier than the 260 it wouldn't begin to fit in the Tiger. First item was to crash program a larger 4 cyl than the 1.7L VW sourced engine for the Omni and Horizon, but smaller and lighter than the Mitsubishi 2.6L. This became the 2.2L, angled back with rear mounted manifolds like the VW and ultimately the 2.5L replacing the Mitsubishi 2.6L in 1986.Iaccoca put together a team of engineers who understood turbocharging and EFI systems, then called in a favor from a friend he had helped out by selling him 260 and 289 V8s for his Southern California hod rods, the AC Cobras. Shelby's crew took the basic Dodge Omni and first raised to compression on the 2.2L engine giving it 110 hp carbureted from 122 ci. Later with further work the 142 hp turbo engine was raised to 172 hp. These Chrysler engineers not only got the power, they made these engines very reliable, one of the tricks was thermo-syphon after cooling of the turbocharger bearing housing. In 1990, Chrysler started using Mitsubishi 3.0L V6s and slowly phased out the turbo engines as a basic "higher output" option on almost every car except the L body (Omni and Horizon), joke was they built one platform with sliding side rails.Fast forward to 1998, Daimler-Benz and Chrysler Merge, Daimler-Chrysler lets most of the engineering staff that made the turbocharged engines super reliable go. Any guess who Ford hired?You can ultimately thank Lee Iacocca and Carrol Shelby for the EcoBoost system, the variable vane turbos on the Powerstrokes (it came out as the VNT on the Chrysler turbos).

If the TPS is holding the throttle open, then something is wrong, TPS, the drive tang on the shaft for it, assembled wrong, or even bent.

Do you have a volt meter? Check your voltage on the battery side of the starter relay. If it drops to near 0 when you try jumping it, then you have some bad connections.

Jim, there are real problems lately with cam and lifter failures, particularly on flat tappet cams. However, even roller lifters are having issues. Say what they will, when I see rollers spalling after only a short operating time, my immediate reaction, based on experience from work, is poor metal and or heat treatment. Does the term Chinesium for the alloy give you a hint?

If you remove the spark plugs it will turn a lot faster.

I have one on #5 on Darth, but once everything is hot it stops. I have a pretty good inspector here, he will try to get me in while everything is hot.

Rene' 1" might be long enough to bottom in the holes. From your video it is very hard to say which is the source of the noise. One thing to look for, an exhaust leak will give a carbon trail at the leak where a valve train noise will not. One other item, make sure all the spark plugs are seated properly, a loose plug will also "tick", and I know the right (passenger) side is a pain on those engines (son had a 1986 F150).

Rene', 3/8" 16 threads to the inch. Many headers used a 12 point head with a washer face. Here are a bunch of different styles: https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+header+bolts&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCQgAEEUYOxjCAzIJCAAQRRg7GMIDMgkIARBFGDsYwgMyCQgCEEUYOxjCAzIJCAMQRRg7GMIDMgkIBBBFGDsYwgMyCQgFEEUYOxjCAzIJCAYQRRg7GMIDMgkIBxBFGDsYwgPSAQ8xOTM5MTA3MTQxajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#oshopproduct=pid:15582600736614592848,oid:15582600736614592848,iid:13440133994599715655,pvt:hg&oshop=apv&pvs=0

I would see about a different brand, possibly someone on here has experience with some that fit and seal well (I personally don't want headers on Darth, past experience on two cars and fighting leaks). I had Hedman Headers on my 1964 Falcon, and when the original ones on my 1966 Shelby turned to Swiss cheese I put a set of their large tube ones on. Be careful in ordering, some companies list the same headers for 289/302 and 351W, the 351W exhaust ports are a bit larger, which means the headers have less metal around the ports to clamp the gasket.

Thank you sir! I stopped by the Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram dealer in Salisbury and ordered a 6100997 dowel pin that is used in the end of the cams to align the gears to them, $4.00. I picked it up in April when I went back up. I drilled through the spacer washer and a short distance into the slot on the 2.5L gear then drove the pin in so it locks the two gears in alignment. In disassembling the short block, I found some interesting things, on the rear pan rail there is a letter stamped in line with the connecting rod big end, this one had D,C,C,C front to rear and after a preliminary cleaning of the pistons found the same letters there. I posed the question of their meaning to Dave Zatz on AllPar, and he asked some older Chrysler workers. They are what I suspected, piston and bore size grades for a closer fit. He took my pictures and in a section called MoTales, he did a write up on it. https://www.motales.com/engines/misc/piston-matching.php Now I am trying to decipher the exact size (they are oversize) the Venolia forged 2.5L Hybrid pistons are so I can order rings for them and have the block bored. They are at least 0.50 mm over and may even be 0.75 mm over. Problem is Venolia is out of business and information is very hard to find.

I was looking at the very small sealing area on those headers, not a good design. It looks like several of the bolt holes are actually into the port area. One item, on those gaskets, the composition side goes toward the head and the metal side toward the header.

Rene' there is a major problem with lifters, both flat tappet (yours) and roller lifters. The problem seems to be a metallurgy issue where the lifter base or roller essentially disintegrates. My feeling on is it is caused by outsourcing to China. I did find that the OEM lifters are all coming from one source, so the problem is showing up on all manufacturers, Ford, GM, and Stellantis here. Go on YouTube and search for lifter failure or cam failure and you will see a load of them. One shop has a number of older stock, new lifters that they are using rather than the ones that come with new cams.

So the duty cycle solenoid can certainly add air and that would speed up the idle. However, I don't know what to do about that. Bill? The only picture I could find quickly is a bottom view, but it does have the two control items on it along with the TPS (throttle position sensor). I do not have the 1984 manuals, so had to use my 1986 one for a reference. The two control items are ISC (idle speed controller) and the mixture solenoid. On the left side is the TPS. The ISC is a servo motor and also contains a closed throttle switch. The switch tells the computer when the throttle is closed at which time the idle speed control is activated. This can be seen and heard, seen in the fact that the plunger will move in or out to reach the desired idle rpm, heard as a whirring noise from the motor and gears inside. The mixture control is a duty cycle solenoid and as has been mentioned, will make a ticking noise and if you put a finger on it you can feel the vibration. The wiring diagrams for this system are on pages 56 and 57 of the 1986 EVTM. I just went back and read your description of the carburetor internal condition. The pump diaphragm in these is a dual function part, the top side is the accelerator pump, bottom side is the power enrichment control for the metering rod. A hole in it and raw gas is being drawn into your intake manifold constantly. One of the issues with this system, is the lack of a malfunction indicator light. The test connector can be used, but requires a proper scan tool, that parts stores do not have. Running pig rich may have loaded up your O2 sensor to where it isn't reading the mixture. This puts the sytsem into "limp" mode.

On the 16 pin plug, there is one pin that shows two different color possibilities, pin #12 can be either a R/LB or W/PK. I believe that pin #12 should be the start feed from the ignition switch, but it could be pin #4. Disconnect the injection pump power as a precaution so the engine can't start, separate the 16 pin connector and take something and jump pin #4 to pin #12 on the body harness side of the plug. With this done, see if the key will work the starter, if so, the problem is in the transmission harness or neutral safety switch. If it will not see if the wire from the switch is properly connected and if you have a test light or voltmeter, see if either wire is getting power in start. If you narrow it down to possibly being the neutral safety switch, plug things back together, but leave the injector pump disconnected, with the key in "start" try moving the shifter a bit,push toward park put it in neutral, try reverse. If it cranks doing this, then the neutral safety switch needs adjusting or is bad.

I saw it and wasn't sure what it was.

Never had a Ford 6.9L Diesel, owned 3 GM 5.7L Diesels, spent 3 years at a Dodge and Mercedes-Benz dealership so am quite familiar with glow plug systems (turn on the key, pull the start-stop knob out and then to the first detent, watch the glow indicator on the dash until it is bright orange, depending on temperature, wait up to 3 or 4 mins, maybe longer then pull the knob all the way to engage the starter). Starting procedure on older MB Diesels and BMC high speed Diesels. At the time I was there Dodge had a Nissan 6 cyl Diesel. If your ignition switch has 2 positions before start, it could be the problem, I believe the 6.9L Ford used the same style glow plug controls GM used. It does look like it, 5 pins, what looks like an extra starter relay for the glow plugs and an indicator light. Have you looked at the 1986 EVTM on here? It looks like Ford only used one ignition switch on these trucks, I know on the gas engine models the front harness was made "universal" so that every system from the DS-II through the EFI and feedback carburetors was basically plug and play. The loss of your glow plug indicator could be a coincidence, like a burned out bulb. Are you getting glow plugs, as dash lights dim a bit then brighten when the relay cycles.

Rene' when the truck sits, the torque converter will drain back into the pan over time raising the level until it will leak. When the tube is out, check where the level marks sit with the dipstick in it.

It's not wrong on mine, it is exactly how mine connects at the switch. Part of the issue may be how the E4OD was originally added. Purple with Orange, function is completely different, one feeds the backup lamp circuit, the other feeds shift solenoid #2. Big issue is it looks like the previous owner jury rigged things. If it was mine, I would start by going underneath and unplugging the transmission wiring at the solenoid body plug (right side of transmission near the back) and the manual lever connector. I would verify the the manual lever switch is set correctly as it is adjustable. With the transmission harness laid out, I would check that the wiring does at least match the diagrams, if in doubt, at least note what wire up top goes to what pin on the bottom. Ford moved things around up top depending on year (1992-1997) and what engine was installed. On the 8 pin, if you look, 4 of those are O2 sensor wires which you obviously do not have. First is C103 which is the 16 pin square plug normally located on the left side inner fender. If you look, there are a couple of different colors, main one is the start control 32 R/LB and 33 W/PK at pin #12, function was the same, start circuit. Next are the two P/O, one is a small one at pin #1 the other a larger one at pin #10. Small one is back up lights power, large one is SS#2. Next is C110 which on your truck is only 4 pins (actually a different C number) on the diagram, pins 1,2,5, 6,7 & 8 are for O2 sensors, 3 is 12V power (circuit 361, red wire) 4 is sensor signal return to EEC, so only one wire is really needed and could be moved to an not needed location on C103. C1048 is the transmission solenoid plug, and there is an error in it's legend, the last two descriptions are reversed. Circuit 316 R is power and circuit 925 W/Y is EPC control. Those wires, other than power and possibly circuits 359 GY/R and 923 O/BK are the ones to your Quick 4 controller. Last is the manual lever switch plug, C1012, my diagram and your diagram have two pins reversed, 1 & 4, on mine 1 is circuit #57, B which is ground and 4 is circuit #463 which would go to a shift on the fly module. yours shows the same function, so it may not make a difference, but, the MLP sensor has a batch of resistors that the EEC uses to know what gear the shifter is in. If your Quick 4 uses this information, then it could be important. The sense circuits will be 199 and 359. I had to go through this with Darth when I went from a carbureted 460 and C6 to an MAF/SEFI 460 and E4OD.

Ok, here is a diagram of the transmission switch connector. The 4 wires I would say you need (unless your controller needs input regarding where the shift lever is) are on pins 5 - 8, 5 & 8 are the neutral safety switch, 6 & 7 are backup lights. The other wires that go to the solenoids are the other wires in the 16 pin and 4 or 8 pin plugs. Red is ignition power and goes to two places on the solenoid plug. Hopefully your controller instructions included the remainder of the hookups as there are 2 shift solenoids, a coast clutch, torque converter clutch and electronic pressure control. The EPC is fed by a red wire and the solenoids by another red wire. If you do not have power or control to the EPC, it defaults to maximum line pressure to avoid burning up the transmission.

Gary, there is still a horn relay on the later trucks, it is just in the PDC underhood. You are correct in the fact that the resistors and switches in the horn pad are the same, the changes were all cosmetic on them. One item we discovered is the difference between a car and truck cruise control module when you tried my Taurus spare in Big Blue.