85lebaront2

Mine is a 1990. First question, do you have the updated switch? Ford changed the switch design due to water intrusion. Other than anything the controller needs there should be a red with light blue wire (2 of them) in the plug on the neutral safety switch. Those two are the start circuit. Only other ones you may want/need would be the back up lights. Both of these are actual switches, the other is a group of resistors to tell the Ford computer what position the shift lever is in.

Since the Ford cruise control uses the horn wiring for it's power and ground, it uses a short jumper harness that also adds a horn relay to the circuit. The horn pad is equipt with the switches which at worst case might involve a different steering wheel. Aftermarket systems were quite popular in the 70s and 80s, after that many vehicles had it as a basic upgrade with what was generally called a "convenience package". The aftermarket will usually have a piggyback switch on the turn signal lever. Adding a Ford factory system (which could have been a dealer installed kit) would involve a hole in the firewall (possibly there, but at least located on the firewall stamping), addition of one or two vacuum valves and a clutch switch if needed and not installed. FWIW, the system on my Chrysler convertible is a dealer installed kit that was available in 1987. I found one NOS at a dealer in South Carolina as Chrysler provided the circuitry and program in the 1987 up ECMs. Here is what it looked like as received: There were also 3 small parts bags for mounting hardware and vacuum fittings. If you look at the pictures of it laid out on the table, you will see several throttle cables, vacuum hose, etc. The 4 wire connection is in the 1987 up harnesses, just tied back with a dust cap over it.

Cruise control was developed in the 60s if my memory serves me correctly. The idea was very simple on the early ones, they had a speedometer cable driven flyweight system like many early steam and hit and miss stationary engines used. There was a cable or mechanical link connected to the carburetor. When the system was activated, an electromagnet connected the throttle to the reaction area of the flyweight assembly. It was set up so if the vehicle slowed down, the weights would move in and the attached linkage would open the throttle, speed up too much and it would close it. Essentially a giant sized small engine centrifugal governor, difference being rather than tightening a spring, you just "clamped" the throttle to the governor at the desired speed. The first ones were built by Perfect Circle and the brand name was a Speedostat. The next improvement was to use a vacuum servo to work the throttle, but still using the mechanical governor, which now controlled a vacuum and vent valve. Chrysler used these units until 1987 when they changed to an engine computer controlled system. Ford and GM used an electro-mechanical system with a processor that took a speed signal (pulse) and once engaged would try to hold it as close as possible. The processor controlled a pair of solenoid vacuum and vent valves. These were fairly good at maintaining speed, except on a long upgrade the vacuum would fall off and it would lose speed. Ford came back to the original motor operated control in the mid 90s, a metal unit with a motor, electric clutch and micro processor reading the speed signal pulses. These are great, and were designed to bolt in place of the vacuum servo units. Now, with "drive by wire", there is no mechanical connection to the throttle plate or plates, so the engine computer now just maintains the speed it was set at.

Ok, the 16 pin harness is from a 1992-97 truck, it plugged into the left side of the front harness just behind and inboard of the PDC used on those years. Here is the pair on my front harness before I installed it on my 1986 F350 460 W/E4OD: Black plug is the 16 pin square one, the green one is an 8 pin, of which I believe I only used 4. The wires on the 16 pin include the start circuit. backup lamps and most of the transmission control circuits. On the gas engines, 4 of the wires in the 8 pin are for the O2 sensor, either the only one on pre-OBDII trucks and the catalyst monitor on OBDII trucks. I can give you the wire colors and functions so you can get it working properly. The E4OD manual lever position sensor contains a batch of resistors to tell the EEC what gear is selected, and I am pretty sure your controller needs that same information. Line pressure is also EEC controlled.

Gee, I remember that headache. I spent a weekend in Falling Waters WV getting it solved. Maybe Gary could add that into the idle setting information.

Jeff, Jim, the 1985/86 5.0L EFI system is not like the 1987 up systems, The idle stop screw setting is very touchy on these. The EGR system starts to function just off idle (Matt's drove both of us nuts). In the right front corner behind the battery is a set of solenoid valves: Two of them are for the EGR valve, the other two are for the Thermactor system. If the TPS voltage is too high, the EGR pair will chatter and the EGR valve will try to open, which kills the idle, followed by closing where it will pick up again. The idle may be raised to get around this. One item we did discover, aftermarket sensors do not always react the same as OEM Ford ones, he had a Standard TPS and could not get the closed throttle voltage low enough. A Motorcraft one solved the problem.

Having had both, not doing rock crawling, but a lot of mud at our 960 acre BSA camp. What I have found is this, Chrysler and GM automatics always would start in 1st gear, even if you wanted to start in 2nd to reduce wheel spin. Ford, when they changed from the old dual range Cruise-O-Matic shift pattern in 1967, kept one of it's most useful features, the ability to start in 2nd gear. I found that by using 2 on a C6 I could pull a stuck pickup with my 1971 Colony Park wagon, with no wheel spin, but still had plenty of pulling power. I also used it during one of our more significant snow storms with no problems. My first car was a 1964 Falcon, 260 V8 and the Ford fully synchro 3 speed. Second car was a 1966 Shelby GT350, 4 speed. I had a Jaguar E-type coupe, and a 1961 Mercedes-Benz, both 4 speeds. First truck was a 1958 F100, 223 six and 3 speed. The automatics, can be a "set it and forget it" in mud or snow, and probably rock crawling, manual is good for control in accelerating, decelerating and especially going downhill where control is needed. Most modern automatics have lock up torque converters, but they unlock when the throttle is closed.

Easiest way is to look for (a) brake controller hook up wiring (b) extra wiring, hopefully not cut, left rear of the frame for a trailer connector, it may have two plugs that the Ford provided proprietary socket would plug into. The specific wiring and locations are in the EVTMs and both 1985 and 1986 ones are in the documentation area.

Interesting, I have 3 vehicles built in Ontario, Darth, the 1986 F350, a 2009 and 2011 Flex. Here are the labels from the 2011 Flex (odd appearance is due to the location, curved area on the back side of the left rear door opening):

Jim same here, one place in Ark VA, Stiltner alignment. He did my 1977 F150 and then I had him do Darth. He had a young man he had taken on as an apprentice and asked if I minded him doing Darth, under supervision. I told if he considered that he had potential, no problem. In both cases, his work is solid, other than a toe adjustment with new inner tie rods, nothing other than greasing the front end has been done since 1994. Place up the road I bought the tires from, 2 fronts after an outside dual grenaded on the US 13 bypass around Salisbury coming back from my son's in W VA, then 4 more for the rear later. I put the front Alcoas on when I replaced those tires and the rear outers when I did the other 4.

Mat, 1986 EVTM is complete, I scanned mine and sent it to Gary. I also have all the vacuum diagrams if you ever need one.

If you have that big a leak around a throttle shaft, I wonder if a bushing was left out? Holley used bushings on high wear areas.

I think the camp had a 44HD, The 50 should just be a bigger version. If it has "king pins" they will be cone roller bearings top and bottom and I am not sure how they are aligned. Here is what Gary has on the 1985 models, he may have the 1980 information also, but it isn't on the site yet. Darth, being 2WD has real king pins, big ones (1.054" diameter) and to align him I had to have the axles bent. The man who did him had also done my 1977 F150. Both trucks wear the front tires dead even side to side.

Ok, I guess from reading this that your truck has the twin traction beams up front. We had a 1987 F250 4WD truck at our scout camp. The left front wheel was visibly leaning out at the top and the truck would leave two dirt piles at the front wheels when it was stopped on the dirt roads at camp. I asked a friend who ran a real good alignment shop for suggestions. He told me how to align it for camber and toe using a level, two blocks and a tape measure. (1) park the truck on a flat level surface (2) using two matched blocks and a beam level, place a block top and bottom on each front rim, use the vertical bubble (one that goes across) on the level, see how far off you are. (3) take the bushings out of the upper ball joint where it goes in the axle housing, see how many degrees are on the camber bushing (in out tilt). If it is a low value, try rotating it and reinstalling. (4) roll truck back and forth to settle the suspension and recheck. (5) toe adjustment - mark each front tire with something so you can find the center line of the tread. Measure front and rear as far up as you can reach. Front less than rear = toe in, more than rear = toe out.

If the secondary throttle shaft has a stop screw like the Autolite 4100s did, it may need adjusting. Quick check, take a piece of vacuum hose and hold it near one ear, take the other end and insert it in the primary and secondary venturiis and listen to the hiss of air. If you have a loud hiss on the secondaries, then they definitely need adjusting. Holley 4150/4160 vacuum secondaries and the Autolite 4100s use a stop screw so the throttle plates don't stick closed. The old "Teapot" Holleys had a special procedure for installing the throttle plates in the secondaries. They were slightly asymmetrical, with the long side being the one that lifted up when opening. Procedure was to take two strips of paper and put them in the back side of the secondary throttle bores and while holding the shaft closed, tighten the screws. This meant the the secondaries seated against the front of the bores so they back side wouldn't dig into the aluminum and cause them to stick.

Welcome to our group, I was 62 in 2008 and still working on things today.

Isn't your engine already offset? Or is that only with the small blocks? The small blocks are offset in the trucks about 2" to the passenger side. My current truck is not a Bullnose, but I am running a Champion aluminum rad and 16" Spal low profile fan. It is dead center in the rad which is centered in the truck, but my engine is offset almost 2" to the passenger side. If my fan and water pump pulley lined up perfectly I'd only have maybe 1/4" room, but since they're offset from each other it feels like I have more room than I do. The 460s are offset to the right, probably the same 2".

Jim, according to what I found on Darth's Marti report, it is an auxiliary transmission cooler. That wouldn't apply to Lil'Red unless he started as an automatic.

On the Bullnose there are three sizes and two different styles. The Diesels are all by themselves due to the size. Gas engines have an early and late mounting style, late carried through from, 1984 I believe until 1996/7. There is one radiator size for a 6 cyl and one for all V8s, 302-460, not one of Ford's "better ideas". Reason is probably due to Ford dropping the 460 at the end of the 1979 production and then having to scramble in 1983 when it was brought back. since there is about 7" between the end of the water pump shaft and the radiator core, things are tight.

Welcome! I have a son named Jeff, he is a ways South of you, Somewhere near Austin Texas. My 1986 F350 had a factory tach, since I have updated the interior, it still does, just the newer (1996) cluster. That is a beautiful truck! My younger son, Matt had a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat 4WD, same engine and transmission as yours. A piece of advice based on his and a few others on here with 1986 EFI 302s. Carefully examine your engine harness for bare areas, cracked insulation, chaffed areas. You also want to look at the ground for the EFI system at the battery negative post, lest it decide one day to just not start.

Chad, I was putting the T-bird fan on to the driver's side to get adequate clearance to change belts. My thought was to take a piece of sheet metal to cover the remainder of the radiator, but cut some sections on the passenger side with vertical slots and cover them with rubber flaps so when the fan is running at a stop or low speed, they will be closed, but a higher speeds will open to allow more air flow through.

This is something worth noting when looking at using the shroud/fan setup from another vehicle vs the champion one. With the champion one there is plenty of clearance since it's pretty much just a 1" deep flat wall (with holes of course). With others from cars with hoods a mile long, it's a different story. Edit: just looked at that link for the Mark VIII and those don't actually look that deep The Thunderbird one is pretty thin, if you don't have the motor directly in line with the water pump pulley. Considering that the MKVIII is on the same body as the T-bird (maybe a slightly older one) the V8 one might be the same, mine came from a 1996 V6 model.

You smart fellow, exactly the same, 1.054" diameter by 6.96" long.

Several items, first, if you have a bad or cheap fan clutch on a 460 it isn't going to work, second, there is virtually no room for most electric fans between the radiator and water pump shaft with a 460 due to it's length. You have to keep in mind, when Ford redesigned the F series and Bronco body and chassis for the 1980 model year, they had no intention of continuing the 460 in them. Thus the frame rail width, front crossmember and engine compartment were designed around the 351M and 400 to be the "big" engines, length was dictated by the 300 six. Everything was fine until Ford started loosing sales to GM as they still had the 454 available. Bottom line, the 460 is shoehorned into a space that wasn't designed for it and has to share it's radiator size with a 302. Since the engine sits a bit to the right, a Thunderbird (1996 model is the one I have) 2 speed electric fan will fit, if positioned to the left of center so it clears the water pump shaft. It is a pretty powerful fan. You will need some foam like you put around a window AC unit where the edge of the fan is off center behind the radiator to force the air to come through the radiator, or a sheet metal closure with some flaps that will push open at speed. Wiring, I can use my EEC to control it, without one, you need some creative wiring two high temperature warning light switches, one for 200°F and one for 225°F, a relay if you have AC. The fan needs to come on low with the AC compressor or at 200°F and if it is on with the AC and the engine reaches 200°F then switch to high and if on from engine temperature of 200°F and it climbs to 225°F then it should also switch to high.

Gary, FWIW, the operative detail seems to be "forged axle". I believe that the 2WD trucks all went to ball joints in 1987 with the possible exception of the F-Super Duty which had a beam axle and leaf springs.