85lebaront2

Rene' here is what I dug up quickly on Speed Density Ford systems: https://www.corral.net/threads/speed-density-camshaft.788163/ I know when we were building my new engine, the builder prefers Sig Erson cams so we placed a call to Sig Erson and his very first question was "how much tune ability do you have in that MAF system?" The cam he sent is here:

Rene' the 1990 Town Car I used the kit on, it mounts between the IAC and the throttle body. The one I drilled the holes in was my son's 1986 F150, essentially the same setup as your Bronco, just had two fuel tanks. His issue was the throttle opened far enough for a good idle would put the TPS voltage high enough to cause the EGR solenoids to "chatter" and as they did the idle would surge as the system tried to find it's best balance. Part of the issue was his TPS, he had bought an aftermarket one and it read high at closed throttle. Once he purchased a Motorcraft one the problems went away. We drilled a pair of 1/16" holes in the throttle plates if I remember correctly. Do you have the specifications on your cam? These speed density EFI systems are extremely sensitive to cam duration, overlap and lobe separation.

Do you have the emission diagram for your truck? If not I have a picture of mine.

I had that exact kit on my 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the last of the 302 speed density sequential injection systems. Same issue, inability to get the idle speed high enough without getting the TPS voltage too high. The hissing sound from the throttle body is due to the air going through a narrow opening at high speed. If you take a small hose and hold it near your ear, the same sound is in a carburetor, you have to get the hose into it far enough to hear. I synchronized many a set of multiple carburetors (SU, Weber, Zenith-Stromberg, Rochester HV, Carter YH) that way. As for the engine not wanting to run correctly below 1000 rpm. it could be a TPS voltage issue, or, if the cam has too much overlap/duration, the vacuum may be pulsing too much which will cause problems.

Usually there is some sort of anti-backfire provision in the thermactor (Ford's name for the air injection system) plumbing. On Darth there were two valves (one for each pump) that would dump to the air cleaner housing. If the valve is there and either slow to respond or possibly has a leaking diaphragm then it would probably close to quickly leading to a backfire. Darth's actually had two vacuum signals to each valve, I am surprised you only have one pump. Darth is a 1986 F350 crew cab dually with a 460 and originally a C6. When I converted to EFI there was a single air pump, but all it did was put air into the catalytic converter which is not required on a 1986 over 8500 GVW truck. Since VA has an update/backdate law, going to a newer engine, I still only need what was required when the truck was built.

It would be well under the specified values, over is usually due to major amounts of slippage internally.

EPC is normally used for Electronic Pressure Control, but I believe the usage here is referencing all the solenoids (shift 1, shift 2, EPC, Coast Clutch and TCC). There is a stall speed test for torque converter function, but as I believe I mentioned it is partially dependent on engine condition. An extremely low stall speed if the rest of the engine's performance is good, is usually indicative of a stator issue inside the converter. If the one-way clutch is slipping you won't have a torque converter, just a fancy fluid coupling. Stall speed specification is 22 - 2800 RPM, if you can't get near those figures I would definitely suspect the stator clutch is bad. One item. if it is a factory, or good remanufactured converter, there is a drain plug (Allen screw) on the OD of the converter. If so and you take it loose and get metal in the fluid coming out, or if you can possibly hear a squealing noise during initial acceleration, either would be indicative of a stator clutch problem. There is a test for them, but it can only be done with the converter out on the bench.

Pete. once you are rolling, the torque converter simply acts as a fluid coupling. If the stator clutch is slipping it will always act like a fluid coupling. There is a stall speed specification, but it is dependent on two major factors, one of which is the engine condition the other being the actual stall ratio of the converter. Since we have absolutely no idea what kind of power your engine is actually putting out that could be part of the issue. The possibility of "crosstalk" between the systems is a possibility. I don't know how those systems handle it, but Chrysler for a long time used an engine computer and a transmission computer that shared a number of inputs (TPS, RPM) primarily. If the converter clutch were sticking on, it would act like forgetting to push the clutch in when coming to a stop, but if it were starting to engage as the rpm came up it would feel like a bad stator clutch. ie dragging. I don't know what year E4OD nor what year valve body it has, but there are a number of detail changes between 1988 and 1994. then a major change in 1995 regarding the EPC protection diodes on the solenoids were moved to the ECM from the solenoid body. You need to know if the Baumann controller has the protection diodes in it or not. If it does it should be no problem, it isn't when using a 1995 up Ford ECM on an older E4OD solenoid body, but the opposite will cause problems.

If the engine feels like it is not coming up in rpm under load, and the truck is very sluggish in both forward and reverse, the problem may be in the torque converter. A bad stator one way clutch will do just that. See here for an explanation of how they work: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/torque-converter.htm Without the stator working all you have is a fluid coupling like the original Hydra-Matics had. Having driven a number of the old Mercedes-Benz fluid coupling automatics (and rebuilt a bunch of them) I know how sluggish the lack of torque multiplication can be. The ballooning issue was due to the pressure used to engage the lockup clutch, the original lockup converters were in the 50s and even the Packard Ultramatic didn't have a problem, even though their 1955-56 V8s could twist the transmission input shaft between their torque and the high stall speed of the converter.

Glad you found it! I think I mentioned that in the original thread. Now you should be able to get the rest of it sorted. On measuring sensors, you can't use the actual ground, you have to measure to the black/white sensor return circuit. I found that out the hard way on my 1990 Lincoln Town Car.

Understood.

No, it doesn't need to be running, the initial check is at atmospheric pressure, then you should be able to suck on the hose to get a response from it. ECU will have to be connected as the 5 V REF comes from it.

If the TPS is at 1 V running then you are well within the proper range. IAC you sould be able to hear it hissing with the intake hoses off the throttle body. On the MAP sensor, use the chart I sent early in this discussion in conjunction with a good vacuum gauge. I checked and it gives kPa and inHg so you should be able to check it. I would start just key on, engine not running and first see if you have 5 volts from the Orange/White to Black/White wires (same wires go to EVP and TPS). If you have 5 volts, then you should have around 80Hz at the Dark Green/Light Green wire. If you apply vacuum it should increase in frequency as the pressure drops.

Rene', with the SPOUT disconnected, timing is fixed at the static setting (10° BTDC or 12° if you changed it). Plugging it back in may really help as the rpm will probably come up. Do that check before drilling the throttle plates please.

Will do. Im still waiting for a reply back to my email asking where the radiators are produced at. Honestly I would still buy one even if it was made over seas. I already made a list of fittings for the transmission cooler to use the OE lines as well and the fan shroud, the trans cooler lines, and other things I would need when I put a new radiator in. Rusty, did you ever replace your radiator and if so, what route did you go? You were doing a lot of research on the Cold-Case radiators in this thread. I haven't done the swap yet, will do it when I pull the old damaged engine out for my new engine. I will be going Cold-Case how ever for various reasons including the life time warranty Cold-Case radiators have. I think the Cold-Case is the best drop in OE style replacement you can get as it has all the OE dimensions and hookups but being a more efficient 100% tig welded aluminum construction with two 1 1/4" cores to make up the 3" core thickness compared to the OE that were from what I could find out just over 1/2" and had three for a 1 1/2" thick core. I had a great radiator in Darth, it was a standard 2 row, a Modine, with a lifetime warranty. It developed a leak after some years and I had it replaced under warranty (since I had installed it myself, but was in a time crunch, I paid the labor). A few more years, and it failed again. Now I had a dilemma, Modine was out of business and the shop that I had purchased it from, owner had a massive coronary right after his 65th birthday. As a result. I ordered one from Rock Auto. Worst part, shop owner was a friend and a fellow Marine, we used to play who could call the other first on 10 November to say "happy birthday".

Definitely, it is pretty much a solid casting in that area. The thin flange will be mostly gone though. Once everything is fitted up, I will probably take some sheet metal and build a cover for the area to keep sand and gravel out of the belt.

One item I ended up doing on my son's 1986 F150 302 was to drill two small holes in the throttle plates. The 351 throttle body may have them in there anyway. Since you probably have more access to metric drill sizes, I would start with 2.0mm and if you can't get a reasonable idle at 1.0V, then go up in small increments until you can get a decent idle. Once you get there, go one step further so the IAC is controlling your idle, otherwise it will not be able to raise the rpm on cold starts or in gear. TPS, is not really adjustable on these, nor easy do to it's location on the bottom of the throttle body.

Cut back the front cover casting where the gear rubs. Belt runs on the outside of the gear.

I really don't want to reduce the OD, as the belt is a half round tooth. This shaft drives the oil pump so I really (a) don't want to risk it slipping and (b) DOHC head is an interference style, so if the belt gets chewed up it could get messy fast.

I fitted the modified (home made?) gear on the 2.5L short block and found that the OD of the 42 tooth gear has a slight interference fit with the front cover, I also discovered that the front cover curved area where the 40 tooth gear normally runs, is not exactly aligned with the circumference of the gear. The 42 tooth gear lightly rubs the outer edge of the curved area, but at the inner edge it flat digs into the casting by somewhere between 1/32 - 1/16". I roughed it in a bit, but will still need to work on it a bit more.

The diode, is wired as a "snubbing" device, it is connected so a voltage "spike" caused when power is shut off to a solenoid is dumped through the diode, but in normal usage it is an open circuit. Essentially and electronic check valve.

That makes sense. The contact surface is more important between the inserts and the "host" metal, larger circumference, more threads length. A larger bolt hangs better than a smaller one, and the insert acts as a larger bolt does. Not sure this hypothesis holds up, but I like it! Torque tests can be very inconclusive as thread condition, lubricant etc. can really change things. What you are trying to achieve is a desired clamping force or the point at which the bolt breaks. In the case of seat bolts that are generally loaded in shear, a less ductile grade is desirable. Ford put the seats in our trucks in with the front fasteners on a 45° angle where the rear ones are vertical. In a normal collision, the seat belts are going to take most if not all of the load, but a heavy unrestrained item behind a seat. As for breaking bolts and torque vs stress on them. In a test I performed for our QID (nuclear inspectors) I used a device called a Skidmore-Whihelm bolt tension indicator which is a hydraulic load cell that the bolt is inserted through and torqued. Lubrication is an eye opener, I was testing 5/8-11 gr 5 bolts, the specified lubricant is Neolube, graphite in isopropyl alcohol. Procedure is apply a coat to both parts, allow to dry fully, then repeat. The question was raised "what if it isn't dry?", at roughly 1/2 the specified torque, the bolts would just stretch apart with almost no effort. Dry, it is a so-so lubricant (works real well on Cub Scout Pinewood Derby cars), wet, it is slippery as goose poop.

Good point, since he isn't using the 1986 ECU, it shouldn't be as sensitive to not being very close to 1 volt.

Today I was able to get the intermediate shaft gear modified. I turned down the OD of an old 1986 square tooth gear and faced off a bit where it would press in to the deep side of a 2.0/2.4L cam gear. I used an extra washer as a spacer between the two hubs. Washer is epoxied to the hub of the 2.0/2.4L gear, then the two gears were epoxied together. I currently have a cut off stub of the 1986 TBI cam (rusted badly enough to be scrap) used with a bolt to hold the assembly together until it sets completely. I am going to see if the Chrysler dealer I will pass tomorrow has the dowel for the 2.0/2.4L cams so I can see about drilling the washer in-line with the keyway so the entire assembly will be solidly joined together once the bolts are in and torqued.

Mat, in the case of Darth, it is 168" wheelbase, 2WD so the drive shaft would be quite long. My 1977 F150 with a 6cyl and C4 had a 133" wheelbase and a single piece driveshaft.