85lebaront2

This is exactly why I kept this controller for Darth: It is a Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic actuated controller, unfortunately, no longer available. Here is where it connects to my late master cylinder:

Back to something else I mentioned earlier, EGR valve, if it opens too far as the throttle is opened, it will cause a severe lean condition, to the point of probably stalling the engine. It will be more noticeable on easy throttle opening as the accelerator pump shot is very slight under those conditions. Your EGR control system is the same style that was used through the 1986 302 engines, there are two solenoid valves, a vacuum and a vent and they control the EGR by alternating to open it the desired amount. I imagine it is the same criteria the 1985/86 EFI 302s use, somewhere around 1.05-1.10 volts on the TPS sensor, the EEC commands the EGR to open, assuming the other criteria (engine temp etc. are met) the EGR solenoids may chatter when this occurs as they are balancing the EEC command against the EGR position sensor signal. EGR position is called EVP for Egr Valve Position and is a 1-5 volt range. I would try disconnection the EGR vacuum hose, plug it and repeat the light throttle test. If the engine comes up smoothly, then the EGR system is the culprit. Check the EGR vent valve filter, if it is dirty and maybe clogged it will not release the vacuum quickly when the vent solenoid opens.

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One thing to check, it will require a 15/16" socket, a deep well is perfect, but a regular one and a short extension will do. Remove the distributor cap and use the socket and a long enough breaker bar if you have one, but a ratchet will do. Turn the crank clockwise until the rotor moves, then turn it counterclockwise until it moves the other way. If you can do this where the timing scale is, it will give you a positive indication of how much slack there is in your timing chain. A lot of slack will cause the cam to be retarded, you can make the ignition timing up, but it can still make the engine run poorly. Another item to consider, catalytic converter(s), they can become clogged or the strata inside can crack and crumble, obstructing the exhaust, you are dealing with 39 year old parts.

You have to keep in mind, Ford never intended to put the 460 in the 1980 up trucks. It was only after being killed in the heavy towing market by GM with the 454 availability that they realized their mistake. Dodge was also sort of stuck, biggest engine was a 360. If Ford had done something with the 400 the 460 might not have been needed. I sent Gary some pictures of Darth's engine compartment before he bought Big Blue, his first comment was "How high did they have to drop that from to get it in?". The factory mounts on a 460 are actually so low on the engine that they block access to the center pan bolts. The front crossmember is also 460 peculiar, with an access hole for the oil filter adapter bolt (the filter is turned forward and down to clear the power steering pump and allow it to be reached from below). One item to be aware of, on the stock exhaust manifolds, the left side motor mount has a heat shield to prevent the heat from melting the rubber.

First item, there is no gap adjustment on a Ford/Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150/4100. There is (on most) a pump stroke adjustment which is done on the throttle shaft over travel lever. It is done, on one with multiple holes, by moving the accelerator pump rod into different holes. The further up you move it the larger the volume of gas delivered. The first thing I would check would be, are you getting a "shot" of gas when the throttle is opened? Choke open, engine not running (choke can be held open for this) air cleaner obviously off. Open the throttle and observe the two "shooters" a decent stream on gas should come from both. If this is good, then other things need checking, if not, then you have your cause. The question then would be, "is the carburetor still under warranty from the shop that rebuilt it?" I used to give a 1 year warranty provided a new filter was installed. One of the items that could cause issues is the timing chain and cam gear. Cam gear is originally a plastic covered aluminum gear, eventually the plastic breaks down and the chain can jump one or more teeth resulting in both the valve timing being off and the ignition timing being off. Another is a over active EGR system, if the valve opens too far, it will make the engine stall or at best stumble badly. You can temporarily disconnect the EGR vacuum hose and see if the problem goes away or at least changes. There is a way to check some of the functions of the EEC-IV system, but, the first versions do not have a check engine light, so there is no visible indication of any problems. A parts store code reader will not work on these, it is only good for OBD-II (1996 up) systems. Any codes on your truck can be read using either a test light or an analog volt meter, once the Self Test Output mode is activated, the EEC will pulse the output with the codes.

The only person I can think of who could give any in site would be Parts Guy Bill on FTE. He has actually showed up on Facebook lately under his real name.

Very good sir! Tell your son thanks for his service. I assume (no necessarily a good idea) that by the corps you mean USMC, if so, is he at Camp Lejeune? At least now the water is safe, it wasn't when I was there in 1965.

And that was brand new installed right? Sheesh! Putting an old worn out lifter back in the engine is better than that! Calling it would be an understatement. Something needs to be done here with QC. It will ruin things (and not just the engines) if allowed to continue. Chinesium, what you get when you outsource stuff to China.

I used Yukon Gears in my friend's 1995 F350, changed from a 4.10 to 3.73

If you look at the wear pattern, it is straight across the bottom of the lifter, this tells the lifter was not rotating in the bore and second, just eyeballing it, the lobe may well be flat across the top which will also contribute to failure. The lobes are supposed to have a slight taper across the tip, not much, but enough so the tip will have the load concentrated in one area, hopefully near the OD of the lifter forcing it to rotate as it lifts. As for seeing lifters like that, I have, on a small block Chevy, worn through, mushroomed to where they won't come out. A pinhole to lube the contact area as was suggested on a FB group might help, but crappy Chinesium that is case hardened rather than a good alloy steel through hardened is going to crack, spall and rapidly wear once the hardened surface is breached. Years ago, some of the early hydraulic lifters had a pressed in end cap where they sat on the cam, maybe we need the manufacturers to return to that.

Gary, if you go back up the thread a bit, I sent him 4 links to cam and lifter failure videos on YouTube. FWIW, Ford, GM and Stellantis are all experiencing premature cam and lifter failures even with roller lifters. Basic problem seems to be outsourcing to China by manufacturers of cams and lifters. The lifters are wearing through on flat tappet cams, even though some are definitely rotating (whole bottom worn in a cupped in pattern). Roller lifters are exhibiting spalling where the hard roller surface cracks and starts flaking off. Some have exhibited what looks like seized rollers, which then destroy the cam lobes associated with them. I haven't seen so many wiped out cam lobes in years, it used to be very common on Chevrolet engines. We would get one in at Preston, complaint would be missing and backfiring in the carburetor under load. Always would be a wiped out exhaust lobe.

Ok, let me try to explain what I would do (your mileage may vary). I would unplug the harness from the transmission, both sides, manual lever and valve body and from the underhood connections so you can use your multimeter to identify what wire goes to what pin on which transmission plugs. The reason I say this is no one has a clue as to what the original transmission swapper did. You have 9 wires that go to the solenoids and valve body, those are the ones your Quick 4 needs to interface with. The manual lever switch (position sensor) has two wires for the starter safety circuits 32 and 33, pins 5 and 8 (needed so it won't start in gear) two wires for the backup lights circuits 140 and 298, pins 6 and 7 (may be needed for inspection) and two that tell Ford's computer where the shift lever is circuits circuits 199 and 359, pins 2 and 3, these may also be needed for the Quick 4 to tell it what range the transmission is in. The 1986 trucks had no E4OD, small V8s and maybe a 6 cyl could have an AOD transmission. The neutral safety switch on it or the C6 was run down the frame and over to the transmission. There was no 16 pin square plug until 1992 at the earliest. 1987 was all by itself on wiring. 1988-1991 had a group of 8 pin round plugs on the left side inner fender that connected to the engine, transmission and rear harness.

That is what a number of engine builders are doing and why I offered the set that came with a cam I was given.

My thoughts exactly Jim, we're dealing with a 37 year old system, which if I remember had two cats, front was reducing, rear was oxidizing and had an air feed either in front of or into it. Air pump and associated system issues would be a dead giveaway. Matt's 86 F150 needed a good exhaust enema for that reason.

The problems I have been seeing posted all seem to start with the lifters spalling (metal flaking off or just simply wearing in one spot) the cams could also be an issue as the tip of the lobes are supposed to be slightly angled from one side to the other (front to back or back to front), this is to further force the lifters to rotate. A roller cam is different, because the roller lifters need to stay in proper alignment so the rollers turn freely, but even they are failing due to the rollers seizing or spalling, which then takes out the cam. Video 1: Video 2: Video 3: Video 4: Hopefully you can get these translated so they are understandable, it is a major problem here, where a number of engines are still pushrod valve gear.

Frame basic dimensions did not change from 1980-1997, but the perches (frame brackets) for the engines are engine family specific, and in some cases the cross member is different. First thing would be to check the VIN for what the original engine was. The perches may have a Ford engineering number which may help in identifying them. As far as I know, the 302 and 351 perches should be the same as the lower portion of the engines are basically identical. Trucks use a "center" sump pan that has a well near the front the oil pump fits down into. I don't have a 351W to even take pictures of, I do have some good pictures of a 460 pan both off and on the engine.

It does to me too. In your parts listings, do you have any way to tell if the lifters are the same from a 302 to a 460? I ask, because I have a cam and lifter package I was given for a 460 that is a bit more than I wanted to use (would be good for a carbureted engine) and the cam has rusted a bit from sitting. I believe the lifters are still ok and are definitely pre-Chinesium manufacture.

That cross member is a pretty good heat sink and is at least as effective as a little finned loop on the AC compressor

Ok, now I know what was stopping your oil pump, cam gear teeth. If you don't mind a slight whine, use a steel cam gear.

I had a 7 blade fan years ago on a 1958 MEL 430 in a 1958 Country Squire it would move some air. What it came from, I am not sure, it came with the ex-NASCAR 430 I was given (belonged to Bill Champion and came with a Algon injection setup and headers that were obviously for a "Square-Bird" body).

I broke them regularly on my 390 in my 1977 F150. Only thing that normally shears them is something binding the oil pump. A double pin (smaller one inside the normal one) may help. On a 300, if it still has the phenolic cam gear, it could be starting to fail. Other source of debris are the valve stem seals. Best to have him drop the pan and check the pump and screen and look for anything in the pan that could be getting pulled into the pump.

Sounds like it is better.

To quote my Spectra Premium parts guy (at the time I was updating Darth) he recommended the 7-4531 which is for the 1994-97 trucks and the 0233091 accumulator. I already had the 1996 evaporator and the 1990 FS10 compressor. I scored a 1996/7 set of lines at Pick-n-Pull VB and I have the largest orifice tube as that is what is recommended for a crew cab. I purged the compressor and replaced the oil with PAG then evacuated and charged with R134a The condenser is described as a multi-pass and is not cleanable if I lose a compressor. I still think what helped the most in Darth, other than using the complete later system is the thermal barrier insulation under the carpet with a double layer over the exhaust pipe area.