85lebaront2

Gary, the humorous part of this is my Chrysler Lebaron. Most of the K-cars and their "offspring" use a Saginaw pump. On a 4 cyl engine it is a big beast and is a royal PITA to remove or replace without taking other parts off first. The J body Lebarons seem to have, at least on the turbo models, used a ZF pump that is considered "non-serviceable". They are available rebuilt and are fairly easy to convert to a remote reservoir if desired. The other nice difference is belt tension adjustments. The Saginaw has a tab with a 1/2" square hole so adjusting the belt tension is a two handed job, the ZF has a nice threaded adjusting link so it can be easily done with one hand.

If you find a picture of a 1964 Thunderbolt, the hoses went where the high beam headlights would normally be. Oldsmobile had scoops under the bumper that went to the air cleaner.

The angle of the transfer case output and the rear axle pinion need to match. The primary reason is the u-joints do not produce an even rotational speed when they are not perfectly straight so the speed-up/slow-down has to cancel out at the end of the drive train (this is why your front drive shaft has a double joint, called a constant velocity joint at the transfer case as that part is always at an angle). If the problem did not start right after the lift was done, I would start with the axle to spring attachment and look for any signs of movement (shiny areas). If anything is found there, then it needs to be fixed first. As for measuring the angles, I picked this up, I think it may have been a Facebook ad, or may have show up on Amazon: It works quite well and has a magnetic base.

I would say yes you should be able to use them. I would replace the receiver/dryer (tank in front of the underhood case) as it is probably bad from exposure to the air. The orifice tube is also suspect so change it. I converted Darth to R134a back when it was first being done (second conversion, first was our 1990 Lincoln Town Car). Even with the smaller compressor (6ci vs 10) and R12 condenser, it still cooled the crew cab adequately.

Considering all the other things did, I'll bet he violated the warnings regarding taking the arm off the load sensing valve. If so, I am pretty sure he didn't have the setting gauge. That's why when I swapped rear axles in Darth, I took the bracket off the axle and swung everything up, out of the way until the "new" axle was in place, then re-attached the bracket.

It looks like a cross between an Oldsmobile W30 and a 1964 Thunderbolt (just only has one carburetor instead of two).

There was also a bigger box labeled EEC Monitor I thought I shipped to you. I know I have the transmission one here. That one is for all electronic ignitions. I know I sent you a DS-II tester once I converted Darth to EFI.

Gary, don't you have my EEC-IV analyzer? You need to put it out for the show so people can see what it took for the dealers to be able to diagnose the systems.

Here is what a slipped balancer looks like: This was in 2011 when I was converting the truck to MAF/SEFI

Gary, do the 351M/400 engines develop slipped balancers like other Ford engines? I think I would start there then check for timing chain slop. We are talking about a roughly 41 year old vehicle.

Sounds good!

I wish you had asked that Monday, I was at my favorite junk yard Tuesday and probably could have scared one up.

You can, some pins have a head on them and have to driven out toward the head. You will need to secure the shifter bowl in the Park position, or the lock will not come all the way back for key removal/accessory position.

That would even do more damage than Darth's hitch. It totaled a Geo who was following my son, Geo ended up wedged under it, receiver against his firewall, top of his engine destroyed. Total damage to Darth, Ollie North bumper sticker scraped a bit. They had to lift Darth by the 5th wheel hitch so they could drag the Geo out from underneath.

I didn't do anything on Darth until I added the 3 lights under the tailgate. I had to lower the bumper about 1/2" I believe so the lights would clear the tailgate when opened (holes were there, just no lights). I even got the spare tire and carrier to fit.

I wasn't going to mention Darth's V5 receiver setup. Since the receiver is welded into the center well of the step bumper, the bolt count to the frame stands at 10. Here is the left side with the side plate removed so I could get the rear tank out: Here is the inside of the right side frame showing where the 3 bolts go on the side plate: Here is what it looks like in the back, disregard the stickers, they were from over 10 years ago: If you look closely, you can see the weld beads where the receiver is welded into the "step". I have no idea what brand of hitch it is, it and a 5th wheel hitch came with Darth when I bought him in April 1994.

It's been talked around here, but the Ford 9" doesn't have a cover. Instead you pull both axle shafts and the driveshaft and then remove the third member. And with my 9" that's been rotated up to compensate for the suspension lift on a short wheelbase early Bronco, there's a substantial amount of gear lube that won't run out, so you end up having to sop it out with a rag or something. I don't have a drain plug on mine, but I wouldn't describe it as a mistake in my case. I hit the diff on enough rocks as it is. I don't want to do anything that would cost me any ground clearance there. Here's what I did on my friend's 1995 F350 10.25" Sterling. Center section is a casting so is pretty thick. I just drilled and tapped for a 3/8 NPT plug and used a hex socket plug that is screwed in almost flush.

Looks nice! Well thought out and executed.

First question, does your truck have the "hot fuel handling package"? It consists of two 6 psi in-tank pumps, a 6 port motor operated tank selector valve and a vapor separator on the fuel line in front of the carburetor. The original "fuel filter" was a fine mesh screen in the carburetor inlet fitting, the Fram HPG-1 filter may be too much restriction for the system as the pumps are only specified for 4.3 psi. The other item, the suction "socks" in the tanks may be clogged or collapsed after 37 years.

Larry, I know this is late, but, I was able to locate a set of both large and small adapters still in the package to complete my set. I still have the extra parts and carrying case that I can send you for the shipping cost if you are still interested.

Very likely. The gentleman who gave them to me thought that due to the peeling areas they were only good for scrap. Interesting back story, I was helping his late father with his "Chevstang" A 1967 originally a bare bones 6 cyl Mustang convertible. Pete had basically turned it into a 1967 Shelby clone, but with a late Chevy LT1, 4L80E and other GM running gear. He had bought a painless wiring kit to integrate the GM engine and transmission controls. He was having an issue with the anti-theft bypass aand his son, Donnie asked if I could help him. While I was working with Pete, the 1996 Centaurus dually was hauled in and when I saw the Alcoas I asked Pete what I would need to do to get them. He said "tell Donnie I said you can have them." When I went to get them they were no longer on the truck, Donnie had his crew remove them, take the tires off and put the wheels for scrap. I recovered them from the scrap pile and after they came back from LKQ, went to Pete's and showed Donnie what they looked like now, he was amazed. Here they are on Darth:

Yes they did. I don't remember what the cost was but it was the last major order my son set up before he left LKQ. He shipped them but had them returned directly to me. They stayed in the boxes until I needed front tires and then rears.

Good points Chad. When I rebuilt my friend's 10.25" Sterling, I put a 3/8" NPT hex socket pipe plug in the bottom. I should have done it when I swapped the housing and installed the traction loc on Darth.

I sent mine to LKQ's wheel reconditioning facility. Here are some before and after pictures: These were on a Centaurus custom F350 that a local yard bought for the engine, a 1996 Powerstroke. Owner had his crew remove the tires and was going to scrap the wheels due to their condition, he gave them to me as sort of a Christmas present. Here is what they looked like when they returned from LKQ: Here is the first one mounted when I had to replace a tire that blew out on me (Left outside dual) I went ahead and bought two new tires for the front. These are Ford factory option wheels manufactured by Alcoa in Richmond VA and are rated for the capacity of the trucks. I had to get all 4 center caps, the fronts weren't in good shape and the rears were missing (due to the thickness of the aluminum wheels, the front and rear ones are made differently). Notches in the center are where the caps snap in.

From your description it sounds like it is wired to power the relay in "start" and "run" and the relay is providing a low resistance feed to the HEI system. Other than the lack of a shell on the relay and the twist connections it sounds like what I would do to power an HEI system reliably.