85lebaront2

Not in my truck, but on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible I used spray-on bed liner (the kind that hardens).

If it had one it would probably be where the factory EFI or hot fuel handling package had them, on the heater air duct, just to the right side on center.

FWIW, I have one of those "little 4 cyl. cars" not as little as some as the basic car was a 6 passenger sedan that caught on and led to what was referred to as a Super K. It is a 1986 Chrysler Lebaron convertible, 2.2L Turbo II (turbocharged with an intercooler and running a Shelby designed 2 piece intake) at 14 psi the engine puts out roughly 200 HP and will leave one of the Fox Body Mustang GTs in it's dust. Younger son had the 1985 the engine was saved from after being totaled to 121 MPH near Washington DC and it was still accelerating at that speed. As a result, T2K-CAR (VA license plate) MKII has rear disc brakes in place of the original 9" drums, front already had the bigger brakes from the factory. As for tuning, Chryslers are interesting, between 1984 and 1990 there were 3 different computer systems, 1984-1987 a 2 piece with a logic module and a power module, essentially brain and brawn. Logic was the control and power contained the high current devices needed to run the coil, injectors and solenoid valves along with having a relay to power them and the fuel pump. 1988-1989 the two pieces were mated in a common case called a SMEC for Single Module Engine Controller. 1990 on it was revamped to an SBEC for Single Board Engine Controller. The LM-PM is the easiest, you remove the factory IC chip, replace it with a socket and burn the tune you want onto the correct chip and plug it in. The LM is inside the car, so is not sealed. On the SMEC and SBEC, the procedure is similar, but you have to open the case, cut the potting away and remove the factory chip, install a socket then burn your tune onto a chip and plug it in. There was one man who found that the SBEC motherboard had the capability of taking a 32 pin socket and he developed a "flash module" allowing you to quickly change a tune. Ford EECs up through the EEC-IV are not capable of being reflashed, they can have a device or internal board plugged in to the J2 port (generally a rubber plug in the back of the case is removed for access. The EEC-V ones can be reflashed with the proper hardware and software (which I have) by using a "token" to break the "lock" Ford has on them.

Two things right off to check, vacuum and centrifugal advance in the distributor (FWIW the under the breaker plate is the same stuff as a DS-I or DS-II unit.

Chad, not having a small set of rear brakes I can't say yes or no on application, but I will throw some insight from my experience installing a rear disc brake conversion on a friend's 1995 F350 dually. He ordered a kit from EGR Brakes that used deep dish rotors from an E350 which I believe has a Dana axle. There were a number of fit-up and clearance issues partially due to the GM calipers and parking brake actuators. The original rotors sent with the kit, might have worked on a single wheel rear. I assume on the electric parking brake you mean electric release like a lot of newer vehicles are coming with. Definitely an improvement over the convoluted routing of the mechanical cables! One thought on that, please try to incorporate a means of release in case of a dead battery.

Looks good! It really does bring back memories of working on boat engines. Most fun was a pair of Gray Marine straight 8s in a big old cabin cruiser that belonged to the family that owned the Dodge/Mercedes/Jaguar/MG dealership I worked at. As near as we could tell they were Packard Super 8s and had a tach drive where the distributor would have been. Dual Zenith updraft carbs, starboard engine had them inboard and they weren't too bad, port engine they were outboard and you had to lie down and slide back and forth to adjust them. Distributors were on the aft end, which was actually the front of the engines, flywheels were partially exposed so you had to be damn careful if they were running.

Looking over everything, it sure looks familiar, my second department manager had a boat, same Mercruiser stern drive setup, 188 HP engine. It was a 302 with a hotter cam and 351 heads. Suggestion from someone who has worked on a number of marine engines. See if you can get the exhaust elbows off and inspect them and the manifolds for leaks. At least with a Ford engine you don't have head bolts into the water jacket like those "French" engines do.

Thankfully we got rid of Ralph Northam as our governor here on the East coast (VA) as he wanted us to follow California's policies. I am hoping it did get eliminated. Our current emission inspection consists of a visual check, inspector is not even to "thump" the cat to see if it's been gutted. We also have (had?) an update/backdate rule that allows a newer engine to be installed in an older vehicle and it only needs to meet the requirements for the vehicle year. As for EVs, if I still lived in one of the cities (like I did for most of my life) I would consider an EV or hybrid, but living where a trip to one of the warehouse stores is a 1.5 hr each way excursion and close to 160 mile round trip I would be a little hesitant to trust one in temperature extremes. At least Royal Farms has installed Tesla superchargers in their facilities.

Let me weigh in on this with my thoughts (1) timing, have you checked that the balancer hasn't slipped, we are talking about a nearly 40 year old part second item would be timing chain jumped, had a customer with a Pontiac, similar case, only ran decently with the timing way advanced until it finally got so far off it wouldn't run at all. (2) lack of power, see #1. (3) hard starting hot, also see #1. Other causes, catalytic converter failing, ie, internal strata breaking apart or just clogged. I had a Plymouth Horizon that would periodically not be able to get out of it's own way, hit a bump and it would take off, I got under it with it cold and thumped the cat, rattle, rattle like a can of rocks (BTW, only vehicles I have ever had cats fail on have all been Chrysler products). Hard hot start, flooding, both could cause this, or as has been mentioned the TFI module which on yours is on the distributor. In 1990 Ford started putting them on the left inner fender near the EEC to alleviate the heat issue. If you need wiring diagrams, I do have AllData Pro which has most of them.

Looks good sir!

If you look at the diagram, you will note there are two flashers, one for turn signals and one for hazard. Turn signal one is fed through the ignition switch, hazard direct from the battery. Fuse 5 feeds the turn flasher and fuse 1 feeds the hazard flasher. The two flashers are one in front and one behind the fuse panel. Tip, if your brake lights work, then fuse 1 is good.

The configuration is similar for a lot of the 2150s, more important for you is the venturii size marking.

Jim, Darth has the "Super Engine Cooling" which is simply an auxiliary transmission cooler for the C6.

If it does, we will need to start collecting DOA DS modules, even aftermarket ones, although if I could find a good reasonable source for some Lucas Constant Energy modules it would be faster.

Bill - I rescued this yellow-grommet module from the stuff going to the show. Seriously doubt anyone would buy it, even for a buck which is what we'd be asking, so it would get tossed at the end of the day. As you can see, two of its connectors are broken and being a yellow-belly no one wants it. It is now with the other stuff coming to you - some day. That's perfect, because if what I am wanting to try works it will allow the underhood area to look stock while having the benefits of an HEI without the clunky Chinese unit. It will clear the front of the 460 intake nicely.

Thanks Gary, I knew it came off one of those old SD gas engines as I rebuilt a few for the cities of Hampton and Newport News VA.

What that Mercruiser had originally was a 302 two barrel intake with an adapter and a Rochester 2GC marine carburetor. My department manager at NNS had one. Engine should have 351W heads. The D4HE prefix is 1974 model year for introduction, but could easily be later. If you could find someone with a big truck that used the SD engines and needs a carb it would be great.

Looking at the carb, he only has pictures of the choke side. One thing jumped out at me, the lever with the ball on it. I will bet that carburetor came off a Super Duty truck engine (401, 477 or 534) those have a centrifugal governor that is mechanically linked to the throttle shaft. All the Marine Holleys I have seen had either a linked pair of vents or vents that "looped" so the open end pointed down. Here is a link to 4 barrels: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/marine_carburetors/ Ignition systems were generally sealed somewhat, many were Prestolite. On a side note, I have an idea for a good high output ignition system that hopefully can be triggered with a DS-I or DS-II distributor (it would still need the large cap and rotor but use a E-core coil and no ballast resistor. If you or someone else has a DOA DS-II box (can even be aftermarket). The issue will be if a DS-II pickup will trigger the module, I know a Chrysler pickup will as that is what is used on MGs and Jaguars.

As far as a rebuild kit, other than 1957 models one size fit all CT499D from Ford, 902-857D from Carter, 77-857D from Standard I think was the 3rd one I stocked (needed that many sources to keep up with the demand). Numbers may be higher up the alphabet by now.

I have seen some decent reviews and some bad ones on the Chinese knock-offs from Amazon. When right they are apparently an excellent replacement, but I can't determine the venturii size. They are only listed as fitting up to 351 ci though. I need to make a run to my favorite junkyard, probably next week as traffic is going to be worse than usual on I 64 across the James river and into and out of Hampton due to a scheduled vist by Kamala Harris to Hampton University Thursday. I can ask if he's got some carburetors stashed in some of his buldings and if so maybe find you a 1.21 or larger rebuildable 2150 (Maybe a 1.33?).

Jim, unfortunately neither is a real good test, Weber rates theirs at I think it was 0.5" depression so their flow rates can be way higher if tested like most other carburetors.

Ok. 1.08 venturii size = 302 carburetor. Partial on L Front flange is EA which would be the last part of the PN, example could be D1TF-9510-EA where the 9510 (basic number for carburetors) is understood. Sizes to approximate CFM: 0.98 = 190 CFM 1.01 = 240 CFM 1.02 = 245 CFM 1.08 = 287 CFM 1.14 = 300 CFM 1.21 = 351 CFM 1.23 = 356 CFM 1.33 = 424 CFM As you can see, even working perfectly it is not an adequate size carburetor for your 400 engine. The other gem is the screw holding the throttle lever on the shaft (wonder if it was one of my old cores?).

That was why I mentioned it. If the rebuilder did not grind it off, the Ford PN was stamped on the side of the base next to the left front mounting bolt. There is also a cast in venturii size on that side of the float bowl. I would expect the size to be maybe 1.21-1.23 as that was what the 390 two barrels were, the biggest factory I believe was 1.33 used on the 429 two barrel engine.

Glad you found it and it was apparently rather obvious once you started looking.

If it is the original carb, it will be an Autolite (maybe Motorcraft by 1982) 2100 or 2150. Kits used to be extremely plentiful for them and were pretty universal (Carter 902-857D, Standard 77-857D, Autolite or Ford CT499D were what I stocked along with one in a plastic bag I used in the shop that was the same quality, just only cost me $2.00 each) Stay away from Tomco, their gaskets are soft and their inlet needle and seat is a POS. It is one of the simplest 2 barrel carbs ever built, two castings, a choke assembly and a cluster. I can almost build one blindfolded. Biggest issue I can think of on a 41 year old carburetor is wear on the throttle shaft and main body casting. Depending on the return spring layout either the front side or back side of the shaft and bore will be worn, this leads to sticking when returning to idle. Other than putting bushings in as the remanufacturers do, there isn't a good fix. The reason I don't recommend reman carbs, I know what I was selling to a core supply house 40-45 years ago, junk that was either stuff throw together or just flat worn out, I doubt the quality has improved since then.