85lebaront2

Merry Christmas! I see you are learning Southern, now you need to work on your drawl.

(a) what window handles? (b) note the window switch almost directly under the lock button. © note the lack of a window divider Those are 1996 doors, they bolted right on, and I had the inside cab wiring also so it was just a matter of drilling a hole in the pillar for the wiring harness. Since then, I scored an extra set of chrome door handles so all 4 match.

Just get a magic 8 ball, it'll do the same thing and is more fun.

Exactly what does that have to do with AC compressors? I won't go into how many Briggs & Strattons I have seen with thrown rods. My 1972 Craftsman HH100 (Tecumseh built) is still going strong.

If I remember correctly York compressors are cast iron, Tecumseh ones are aluminum.

Gary, I show circuit 67 as being on pin #21 for 1988-1990 5.8L then from 1991-1995 and 1996 over 8500 lbs, it changes to circuit 264. The other side of the ISC is circuit 361 12V power from the EEC power relay. This is still the power source from 1988-1995. I will be gone most of tomorrow so will not be able to contribute till later in the afternoon/evening.

I put rear speakers in my crew cab by using a 1996 interior and rear doors. I had put them in the original 1986 rear doors.

You know, we had the same storm (it just traveled up the coast) here. I put Mary's 2011 Flex in the garage (referred to by the county building inspector as probably the safest place in the county in a hurricane) and parked mine between the house and garage. We got about 5" of rain, winds around 15 mph with gusts to 25 mph. Some flooding, but it generally drains fast due to the rather sandy soil. I'm glad things are looking (and feeling) better for you!

Is there any sort of ID tag on the engine, either a label on the valve cover or a tag on the intake manifold? The F250 over 8500 lbs and the F350 were a different emission class than the F150. I also wonder if it could have originally been a CA spec truck.

It has a hump.

One big item, what engine do you have? AOD is good on a 302, there was one offered behind a 351W and also a 300. Neither held up very well. The 351 version had more clutch discs and I believe I remember a bigger OD servo and band (I had one years ago for a project that never got built so I sold it).

They should be, the basic column is the same, mount to the dash support and ignition switch are different. You might also look in older cars as a lot of the parts were the same. The tilt mechanism on my 1970 LTD and 1971 Colony Park was the same design, push the turn signal lever forward to tilt and the same double row arc shaped plug.

Depends on the model. My 1986 F350 crew cab has a removable cover and was built with a C6.

Yes, and hot, let it heat soak for 10-15 mins and check again. Measured from pins 25 and 37 to pin 46 sensor signal return.

With the engine cold, both should read the same resistance value within the tolerance. That is a sanity check. After running it and shutting it off, once everything has heat soaked for a bit they should again read the same within the tolerance.

Yes, but look one column over, 1990 it becomes circuit 743, ACT or Air Charge Temperature still the same function. If you look at the resistance charts I sent you the ECT and ACT are the same values for a given temperature.

Rene' the 1985/86 truck EFI pinouts are different from the 1987 up ones.

How many do you want??

Gary, my experience has been, if it is a real computer, ie, desktop or laptop, not a tablet, I have not had a problem, even on my Intel CPU MacBook Pro Dual boot. The only issue I have had on my Mongoose was the USB connector not making good contact and it wasn't being recognized by my computer. Once I cleaned it the problem went away.

I think the Dodge setup is different than what you are imagining. I don't know what part would be a "parking brake screw". The Dodge setup is just a levered wedge of sorts, completely divorced from the hydraulic system. I don't see how anything on it would have the capability to cause a leak on the hydraulic side. That would be my choice, Jaguar had a similar system, except the rotors, calipers and E-brake were all inboard right at the output shafts on the differential housing. Here is a shot of the caliper with the parking brake screw:

1. My 1986 owner guide simply says "underhood light (optional)" 2. If I remember correctly, you have to take the plastic cover off the center, remove the screws and take the light assembly off to get to those bulbs 3. On the crack, possibly, it is a common problem. The screws hold the plastic parts onto the metal frame. The entire dash is a built up assembly. 4. If there is play in the hinges, I would replace them as the replacements will probably be the later design. 5. Can't help you on that, I've never owned a 4X4 truck.

On the bigger stuff, I believe the E-series 350 with dual rear wheels might be a good source. The kit my friend bought was from EGR brakes and it was real nightmare, nothing fit, it uses GM calipers with the discs being used for the E-brake and parking. I have lots of pictures and a write up I sent to EGR brakes. The bad things for me were (a) for a DRW truck, you need the E350 DRW rotors which are quite deep (b) these are designed to have a drum E-brake and parking brake inside the rotor (like my Lebaron has). Mine main objection to the combined hydraulic and mechanical caliper I just went through on my 2009 Flex, the seal around the parking brake screw started leaking on the left rear caliper, and it would sit there and drip without the brake being applied and would pretty well drain the R front/L rear circuit overnight. It is just a leak waiting to happen.

Just for S & Gs, do you have any kind of contact cleaner? If you do, spray or drip or daub (whichever works for you) the Mongoose USB plug and plug and unplug it several times. That was the problem with mine. It would not show up in the Device manager except as an "unknown device".

You are correct, I misidentified the banks. So the WB o2 is in bank 1, not 2. So apparently the misfire event occurred in the bank without the WB o2. The sensors on your Flex were dual band of some sort, you are saying? I'm pretty sure WB 02 was a thing by 2011, but I'm relatively certain that anything from the 80's to mid-90's was a narrowband. I'm familiar with NB and WB sensors, but I'm not sure what a "dual band" sensor is. I'm not sure what you mean by "have the sensors crossed". Are you referring to the possibility that I have the wrong sensors? I am on my 2nd set of sensors from different brands. The first set -may- have been dead but I doubt it. The second set (the TRQ set I referenced) I bought from PartsGeek and their website definitely shows that product as compatible with 89-95 Taurus SHO. I guess I will throw in the Denso 234-3002's I have (brand new) and see if it makes a difference but I am am giving that about a .01% chance of making a difference. Thanks for the reply. Bank 1 by SAE standards is the bank with #1 cylinder, bank #2 is the other bank. You correctly identified them in this post. The Flex sensors have 5 pins but 6 wires and the NTK catalog I have shows them as having two sensors in them. I used the Motorcraft as they were actually reasonably priced. The real fun, in 2011 there were 3 different upstream O2 sensors depending on when it was built. Basically you need to be sure that bank 1 has O2 sensor 11 and bank 2 has O2 sensor 21 Those are the standard numbering system for more than 2. with only 2 they may be designated as 1 and 2. The normal O2 sensor is a narrow band and is only effective in the 14.6 to 14.8:1 A/F ratio, or a Lambda value of 0.99 to 1.01 if your mixture as measured by your wideband is lower or higher, the sensor will just be stuck at it's range limit which seems to be what you are seeing. Here is something I found that may help: What is the difference between a wideband O2 sensor and a narrowband O2 sensor? Narrowbands are excellent when it comes to finding 14.7:1, but they aren't nearly as accurate when air/fuel reaches either side of this ratio. Wideband sensors are built for pinpoint accuracy. They send voltage to the ECU on a scale of 1 to 5 so that it knows exactly what is required to maintain target air/fuel ratios.

First, in any EEC system reference bank 1 is the side #1 cylinder is on, so on a Taurus bank 1 is the rear bank and cyls 123 are there, bank 2 is the front bank and cyls 456 are there. I never had a bad O2 sensor on my Taurus, but have had to replace both upper (11 and 21) on my 2011 Flex. FWIW, these are a dual band sensor of some sort. If by chance you have the sensors crossed I know you will get some very strange results. I have run into some issues with Bosch O2 sensors not working on Chrysler products, I don't know if maybe you are seeing something like that. Good luck with it