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There is a picture gallery on the site. If you go there pictures of a number of trucks are there including Darth.

Probably the pitot tube Airbus incident where insects got into the tubes so they were plugged and the pilot never looked up and saw they were plugged during the walk around.

BTW, if you're a Horrid Fate member their big transmission jack is 'on sale' (like everything in the store, all the time! 😉) The E4OD is a beast. You could probably buy this for one time use and flip it on marketplace when your done. At least there would be no pressure to get it back like a rental... Looks like a cheap copy of my Walker one.

Ok, first item, Ford gauges through 1986 are 5 volt King-Seely gauges the design of which dates to the 40s. When the electrical systems on Fords went to 12 volts in 1956, a resistance wire and a regulator (called an IVR) were added to allow the same gauges to be used. Ford finally switched to the balanced coil design in 1990. On choke heaters, the alternator stator is tapped to provide 7 volts to the Ford choke cover. If you insist on using a Chinese one wire alternator, then you need a switch and possibly a relay to provide power to the electric choke. Both Holley and Carter have 12 volt choke covers, Chrysler 2.2L carbureted engines used a 2 or 3 terminal switch. 2 terminal was normally open, closed with pressure, 3 terminal added the idiot light circuit.

Jim you might be thinking of Darth.

Welcome sir, glad to have you on board!

First thing we would ask is that you go to the new members area and introduce yourself and where you are from and then I or someone else familiar with the PGMR starters will be very happy to help you. A bit of information on your truck in your signature will always provide that in the future.

Jim, I did a 10.25" dually rear for my best friend, big pipe wrench, 5' length of exhaust pipe, long 1/2" breaker bar. If you slide the axles out of the differential you can get a pretty good feel on the drag. When I was undoing the nut, I inverted the pipe wrench and used a C-clamp to keep it in place.

Well, maybe they wanted to retain that Bullnose peculiar feature. They definitely from my experience seem to be Chevy oriented (helped install one of their harnesses on a 1955 Dodge truck street rod and debug an installation on an LT1 swapped 1967 Mustang Shelby clone).

I would recommend replacing the muffler bearings at the same time.

Welcome, sorry I didn't see this last night.

Yes, and if he is a horse's posterior it doesn't help either.

Connector Ford part no. AUVECO Motorcraft DS-II 3 pin 3U2Z-14S411-XXA 20841 WPT-601 DS-II 4 pin 20844 Try these numbers As for the modified module, (a) it doesn't need to be a Ford DS-II unless it is bad, a cheap aftermarket case will suffice.(b) If what I am trying to do works, then we will be looking for junk non-ford cases that when converted can be labeled "Garage Mahal TFI conversion", Or maybe "Preston Carburetion and Ignition TFI conversion" I think the last owner won't mind.

Damn, maybe he wasn't taught to be honest.

Aren't you glad I didn't pitch Darth's when I switched to EFI?

I agree with Jim, progress is good. Do you want to come document my konvertible wiring??

Apparently not, I couldn't find anything from you on 9 January 2024.

Gary, if someone didn't want to modify the cluster, an aftermarket voltmeter could be installed under dash or in an A pillar pod. Voltmeters are a far better indicator of charging system health with an alternator, just be sure it is connected to an ignition switched source.

The correct air filter should have a heat duct and vacuum motor. The sensor is inside the air cleaner. Thermal vacuum valves, used to be virtually everyone had them. I had a bunch of them, but I am afraid they didn't follow me to the Eastern Shore. On your flooding issue, you say you have the EGR spacer, how thick is the gasket under the carburetor? Second, heat riser valve, is it working? If not is it stuck in the heat position? Only flooding hot sounds like you may be boiling the fuel in the carburetor.

If you are doing without the computer, go back to the older non-computer systems where there was usually a thermal valve to control the minimum temperature for the EGR valve to open.

How many different relays would you like for testing?

Looks pretty good. FYI, if the L, M1 & M2 seem a little slow still, check the ground side for voltage drop. Whoever Ford had designing the wiring for these must have been hired from Ford of Great Britain, only thing missing is this:

Gary, the idea is to move the ground side of the switch to a solid underhood ground, probably right at the battery. 87a is connected to 30 with the relay de-energised so if the switch ground is through it it will have the same ground as the Hi setting. It would just be 1 more wire from switch to relay box.

Ok, one relay to get direct power to the O blower motor wire (+) and the other to ground the B blower motor wire (becomes O/BK) in high. Since you are re doing all of that wiring, I would look into using terminal 30 on the ground side relay as the ground pin, 87a to ground the switch and 87 to ground the blower motor. That way you can eliminate some of the present connectors. I may at some point mess with the HVAC wiring on Darth, but the 1996 system is so greatly improved it may not be needed.

Gary, inside the cab, near the HVAC inlet, is a pretty healthy connector, should be brown, if yours isn't partially melted I will be surprised. It carries the blower ground side connections to the switch. Also take a good look at the blower switch plug and the two lead underhood plug for the blower motor. All of these will typically show heat damage. Basically check every plug in the blower circuit for signs of being overheated and clean or replace them. For some reason Ford decided to use the ground side for speed selection (like Chrysler) unlike GM who used the power side and then a big relay with a 30 amp in-line fuse off the alternator for high.