85lebaront2

If you need any of the control valves for that system I have a complete set of the 4 from a 1986 F150 5.0L. The EGR on those is strange, there are 2 solenoid valves EGR vacuum and EGR vent and they essentially chatter when the EGR is in use 1987 up Ford went to a single duty cycle valve for EGR.

Maybe I have a year on you, I graduated HS June 1964 and used my parents two station wagons, a 1959 DeSoto shopper with the 295 hp 361 2 barrel and a 1962 Plymouth Belvedire with the polyspheric 318 2 barrel. I didn't have my own car till after I came back from my 6 months active duty in USMCR and took over the payments on the Falcon.

Gary, Matt sold "Stolen" to his cousin in Chesapeake several years ago, that's when he found how anemic the V10 is for towing. Using a borrowed trailer to haul the F150 on, he was clear down in 2nd on the 4R100 with 3:73 gears.

That isn't all of it, my first car was a 1964 Falcon my dad bought while I was at Parris Island, it was a 260 V8, 3 speed column shift with "factory air". I took over the payments when I got back in Feb 1966 and drove it until 1970 when I bought this: I finally sold the Falcon to a friend, then bought a 1963 Jetfire for more of a daily driver, it had almost every option available for that model. I drove the Jetfire and the Shelby back and forth. After I gave my late wife her engagement ring in the Shelby, I quietly told her to never tell me either it goes or I do, because I would help her pack. We had a couple of station wagons, a 1970 1/2 Falcon and a 1971 Colony Park, then went to Chrysler corp mini vans for a while. After she passed away, I met my current wife on-line and the mini vans continued until last May when I traded the last one in on a 2011 Flex Limited. In the mean time I acquired a 1985 LeBaron convertible with the 2.6L Mitsubishi, after the engine developed the Mitsubishi curse, a cracked head, I stuck something in it I had been working on for it:

That is a well-thought out (so they didn't have liability) understatement of a viscous circle, meaning that the heat increases the resistance, which increases the heat, which increases the resistance, ......... until something gives. Frequently it is the alternator, but sometimes the truck. Gary, that is where the second problem arises. The butt connectors will eventually corrode a little and under load, will cause a voltage drop, but, since the voltage sense is at the junction of the alternator fusible link and the main feed fusible link the built in regulator sees lower voltage and compensates by increasing the field voltage to correct this, under high load, (high beam lights, A/C on with high fan) the alternator ends up at full field and fries itself internally. That's what happened to Matt, the alternator harness had a bad connection and it ended up with the alternator full fielding for about 5 mins, then all the smoke leaked out. Now you know why a number of us have gone to 3G alternators. On most of these trucks a 130 amp 3G from a Taurus 3.8L V6 is a nice near drop-in as it is an axial mount and easy to re clock the housing if needed.

Same to you and your family Gary. Mary and I are going up the road to a restaurant that has a Thanksgiving buffet since it is just the two of us.

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg Dave ---- Actually on the up to 1987 2G system, the voltage sense for the POS is beyond the fusible links, look at the 1986 EVTM on the website. If it fails, or has a bad connection if the alternator has been replaced with one that has the "fire plug" permanently attached, the alternator will not charge and will promptly destroy itself. Matt blew one on his 86 F150 due to that, fortunately I still had a good one from Darth and was able to help him. I still say, I want whatever it was the engineers at Ford were on when that was designed, it must have been some "dynomite sheet mon".

Monza was definitely more of a trim package, the 1965-67? Corsa was the performance model, 1962-64 the Spyder was the top engine and car package, 150 hp turbocharged, in 1965 the turbo engine became 180 hp and was a Corsa only option, Corsa base engine was the 140 hp 4 carb version. Dad had a 1966 Corsa 180 hp 4 speed, he found a complete A/C system in a junkyard and bought it. The condenser on those sat just behind the air inlet to the engine compartment so it no longer sat over the cooling fan. He had to trim a little bit of the fins to clear the turbo, but other than that it fit and ran great. I found a 2 barrel adapter that was designed for a Stromberg WW carb, I took a Holley to Stromberg/Rochester/Carter small pattern and ordered in a small Holley that was set up to be used with a velocity governor and had a plug for the normal power valve passage and an adjacent one that passed through the governor body. I drilled and tapped a hole in the adapter and a mating one on the mounting surface so I could tee the power circuit to the boost gauge line ensuring enrichment under boost no matter what. 4th gear, 45 mph, boost would come up almost instantly. I had a 1964 Monza 110 hp 4 speed, but my son had a neat 1965 Corsa. When we got it, it was an abandoned vehicle at a towing company lot. Engine was assembled with the heads backwards and the carbs and linkage on the 140 hp engine were fubar. Pulled the engine, went through it and found, Otto OT20 cam, .030 over cylinder sets, headers and glass packs. On reassembly got a pair of auxiliary (Chavy's name) carbs and late 65 up linkage. Original transaxle was rough, got a 1966 Saginaw and differential for it and stuck everything in it. Discovered the car had "heavy duty" suspension aka Handling package. Engine was somewhere between a stage I and stage II Yenko as far as power. I jetted the primary carbs one step lean and went two up on the secondaries. Damn car would leave a 5.0L fox body Mustang and corner like a slot car as long as you remembered DO NOT LIFT in a corner. He drove it all through high school until it got a bit cranky, then used my Horizon until he bought a 1999 Mustang V6 in 2000.

They look like Weber 48 IDA 3Ps which were used on the Porsche 911s engines, the regular 911s got Solex 3 barrel downdrafts that were a nightmare, no floats in the carbs, two float chambers, one on each side fed by a single electric pump. From there on each side another electric pump drew fuel from the float chamber and delivered it to the jet chamber on each carb body where the excess overflowed into a return pipe and back to the float chamber. The only other system like that I have ever seen was used by Saab, downdrafts on the last of the 2-stroke sedans and sidedrafts on the Sonnet.

Gary, looking at the early vs late control panel, I see where the vacuum issue arises, look at the sequence on the function selector lever, specifically where Vent is in relation to the A/C selections. Makes me like my older Chrysler push buttons more, Vent was achieved by pulling the A/C button back out, which turned off the A/C clutch feed.

That is pretty disappointing, Belden wires used to be some of the best you could buy. I put Motorcraft on my truck and Taurus as they are the only "exact fit" ones available (Gary, wait till you go get plug wires for Big Blue).

They do rotate backwards to the VW engine, and loo like they rotate backwards to everything, but if you look at the rotation of most engines they are clockwise viewed from the front, or counterclockwise viewed from the rear which is exactly how a Corvair engine rotates. It allowed Chevrolet to use some components that were the same as the RWD cars and some of the same machine tools like the hypoid gear tools. As a result, the 1966-69 models used Saginaw 3 and 4 speed transmissions. As for a radiator, for a Corvair, damn hard piece to find!

Jim, the craft fair is indoors and Dec 2nd. Hope the rest of your trip went well, good to finally put a face and truck to the name.

One thing, the Q-jet primaries, other than the SD455 Pontiac ones, flowed roughly 260 cfm, so they are small. Too much cam, or too large an engine, and you were pulling fuel from the main nozzles at or a little off idle, Cadillacs with the 472 and 500 engines were a nightmare to get right, particularly if the engine was a bit weak, they would dribble from the main nozzles and run pig rich.

The secret on keeping it cool, is lock up the clutch as early as practical, let the engine do the work like it does for a manual.

So is damn near every other thing Detroit built in those years. The assumption was, as new components, bodies etc. were introduced they would be metric. Great, then how do you explain a K-car, introduced in 1980 as a 1981 model complete with a new all metric engine. Body is full of English size fasteners, particularly the splash shields. They must have had a surplus of 3/8 head self tapping screws.

Pete, the reason it isn't, our government. For all the talk about going metric, it isn't happening any time soon. One of the big reasons is fasteners, specifically the method of determining class of fit. The English system makes a tighter fit by making the bolts larger (not much, just a few thousandths on small ones), metric is done by making the holes smaller so it makes all the fastener strength tables no longer valid. I retired from a major defense contractor, Huntington Ingalls Industries, we build Navy ships, and even the newest aircraft carrier is still measured in inches, feet and yards and bolts are torqued in ft-lbs and in-lbs, even in-oz. We tried a number of years ago to get back into commercial shipbuilding and designed a metric double hull tanker, named the "double eagle", it was more of a turkey. When the first ship, built in two sections, machinery and cargo, was to be joined in the shipway, it was 3" short! I told my supervisor, I knew what the problem was, metric conversions adding up errors till in 333 feet, we lost 3". He told me that was BS, a week later everyone in the yard got a metric conversion card. I used to keep a Mercedes-Benz specification book in my desk, because it had a 10 place conversion table in both directions, English to metric and metric to English, more than once someone who knew I had it would come ask me to do a conversion for them.

My best friend put an aircraft landing light on the back of his 1975 E250 and damn that was bright! See you tomorrow in Seaford DE.

Dave, if I have the 85/86 control head, it is still in Newport News in my old dash. I didn't bring that over as I really have no need or really use for it.

I did see that that but beggars can’t be choosers when it comes to parts for our trucks. Also till I know that vacuum switch can be swapped to the control I might be stuck with what I have as I also have duel tank panel with AC. I could also go with a manual valve if I was that worried. I also have the 300 using EFI manifolds and the heater water will also be used to heat the intake manifold. Dave ---- Dave, if you use one of the Chrysler ones, they do provide a circulating loop when "off" so you can close it and still have manifold heat.

Most likely $$$$$ the oil to water is installed on the engine/transmission assembly and as a result drops on the frame as a unit, the older oil to air one required two hoses be connected, additional parts on the core support and probably cost more for the parts in addition to being more to deal with on the assembly line. I may also have been related to the change from an external high pressure pump to in-tank high pressure pumps and the resulting redesign of the fuel rail and connections.

I wouldn't want to cut up a good one. There is a thread on FTE on the repeated failure of that heat exchanger. The problem seems to be corrosion inside the "box" allowing oil and coolant to mix. This usually shows up as a mystery oil leak and occasional murky oil. Bigger issue is the oil gets into the cooling system. I did a fairly comprehensive article with pictures on there showing (a) how it fits (b) the different water pump inlet fitting size © how the oil flows in it and (d) a solution to eliminate it. The issue that really complicates everything is the need to get a filter on the engine without chopping a huge hole in the crossmember, which on a 2WD model is the attachment point for the twin I-beam pivots. The pre-EFI models simply used an adapter to rotate the filter forward and down, and if you look at the adapter there are very obvious areas of the casting that are unused, it is nothing more than an SCJ/police oil cooler adapter with the bypass valve and hose fitting portions unfinished. When the EFI engine came out, and as an option on the older models Ford simply installed the complete adapter and until mid 1990 an oil to air cooler in front on the driver's side.

Gary, if you could do like the 1973-79 trucks did, there was a small plunger type valve on the temperature lever, actually 2 if I remember correctly. on full cold in A/C mode, it operated the recirc actuator and shut off the water flow, the second one on the early models put the water in a half flow mode. It worked very well considering on mine the case and the 390 seemed like they wanted to mate with each other. If you used one of those valves, you could use the recirc to shut it off, and the panel vacuum to put it in half flow, another thought, use a 3 port solenoid vacuum valve to keep the water flow off in panel but enable it if the compressor circuit is live in A/C norm mode for temperature control. A microswitch on the temperature lever could keep the vacuum on to the water valve in full cold position. FWIW, the later system does not seem to have a problem with cooling even after a hot soak with a 460.

This is what the VA entry looks like: Plate No State Plate Type Vehicle Description Make Model Year 1704ET VA Pick-up Truck 2 axles, 6 tires, dual tires (over 7,000 lbs) = class 203 Ford F350 1986 Color Black

Chrysler used a similar one and my son had a failed on on one of the delivery trucks at AutoZone when he was commercial manger They had no listing, Ford wanted around $75 for it, he grabbed a Chrysler one out of stock, it sat upside down but worked and fit perfectly. The K-cars used one with the lines essentially straight across, bypassed the coolant when off for manifold heat on the 2.2/2.5L engines. Mounted close it would give instant heat when opened. White or black/white should be recirc door close.