85lebaront2

Should be on FTE and possibly on FB. Here they are:

Gary, unless the wiring on Big Blue has been intercoursed like the rest of the truck, the side markers in front, with the lights off, should blink with the turn signals, with the lights on, they blink in opposition, ie, when the signal blinks, the marker goes out. They are wired across from the park light circuit to the turn signal so ground through the turn signal filament so when the lights are on, they lose their ground.

Look at my pictures of the new engine for Darth, factory HD model (deeper gasket groove and screw in PCV valve) cleaned and painted with chrome paint. Lower plenum matched my EFI heads fine, doesn't match the carbureted heads, upper plenum, is pretty well wide open, just not real fancy. FWIW, I have never found any aftermarket EFI 460 valve covers, they are center bolt. Be sure you get the correct gasket for the covers, the standard ones will leak in the HD covers (ask me how I learned that one). Your carbureted headers will not fit the EFI heads, rectangular vs oval ports.

I am not a big fan of Chinese Chevy distributors, knowing what decent parts for an HEI cost, a whole distributor for $50 scares me. Do what was mentioned earlier, DS-II distributor and use a GM 4 pin HEI module and either GM or Ford E-core coil. You will still have to do some wiring to use that, HEI is a current hog and doesn't use a resistor.

A little widget called a Hilbert_Cube_a which is a complex bunch of various angles. I will get a picture of it sometime. The software gives 3 levels of build, fast, standard and fine I think is the other. Apparently the speed and layer thickness are the variables it does have a temperature setting and material tabs. I do have some ABS along with the PLA filament.

The software with the printer does allow for different materials and heat levels. I joined a FB users group so I can ask further questions there.

I have not seen view more either.

A good friend has a cartoon posted on his refrigerator, it shows a guy sitting bolt upright in a hospital bed and it reads "What do you mean, a Lucas Pacemaker?" Then do you know why the British drink warm beer? All of their refrigerators are made by Lucas.

Dyn, British and electric, not a good combination. Just remember, "Joseph Lucas, father of the intermittent wiper" or the three functions of Lucas electrics, Dim, Flicker and Off.

The last post I had made previous to the problem one was fine. I just couldn't scroll down far enough to see the latest post, all I was getting was a slice with the top part of the avatar and maybe two or three lines of the post. It seems normal this morning.

Ok, now I have another weird occurrence, the last post in a long thread isn't completely visible, it is reminiscent of an old TV with vertical hold issues, don't know if it is from some updates or what, it was fine earlier.

Chrysler electronic ignitions were so reliable, you carried a spare module and double resistor in the glove box along with the needed tools. Just wait till you start on the Bee, I want you to take off and measure #7 plug wire, the one that crosses the front, runs down the inside of the left valve cover and around the back of the exhaust manifold to get to the plug. I wish I had a nickel for every HEI distributor I saw with a hole blown right through the rotor. generally caused by the wires being bad. On the Fords, I had more troubles with aftermarket DS-I and II modules than the factory ones, TFI, only ones I have seen with real problems are the distributor mounted ones, heat does kill them. Again, I stick to OEM on them rather than aftermarket.

Jim, you are correct on the OD of the cup, I went back and looked at the picture again and corrected it.

Ok, I hope it does solve it. Since I went to Edge it has been better. I actually set my Edge home page to here.

Suppose I just mail you one of the good ones? That way you will have the actual piece for measurements. I can also send you a copy of the software it uses so you can see what format's it accepts.

It printed from the bottom up. BTW, here is what I need to make:

At Gary's request, some close up pictures of the "mouse cup".

I would say this qualifies as a new tool. My awesome wife got me this for Christmas, a Flashforge 3D printer. Now maybe I can make the NLA trim clips for the LeBaron.

Ok, guys, got a new toy for Christmas, a Flashforge 3D printer. If I provide a good sample can someone make me the needed file so I can manufacture some trim clips for my convertible? There are 10 of them NLA from anywhere except one company says maybe, but at $14.58 each that is $145.80 = shipping and maybe tax. Even for a spool of the high priced filament it will still be cheaper.

Merry Christmas to all! Peace and Goodwill!

THANKS! That is a great help. It tells me what way the seal gets installed and the picture shows the names of the parts. Other site had numbers and then had to go look them up someplace else. Only thing not clear is where the shims go. It says to measure it at the top then install that amount but at top or bottom? I say bottom because another site (48-56 trucks) said the shims go above the bearing that is on the bottom. I hope when I take apart what is on the truck now I can see where the shims go. Thanks again Dave ---- Dave, shims, if used, go on the top. The 48-56 models I believe had the bushings in the axle and the pin swiveled with the spindle. The two styles were called "Elliot" and "Reverse Elliot" and I don't remember which was which. The bearing is what actually carries the weight, the shims take up the slack. If you read it carefully it says to measure the clearance between the top of the axle and spindle which tells me that is where the shims would be used. FWIW, those pins are 7/8" OD and mine are still the original ones, if they are lubricated properly they will damn near last forever. Merry Christmas!

Will the information on a 1986 F350 help? Assembly is probably the same, just a lot bigger.

Yes, I actually have a copy of the manual Ford used for training and have the low vacuum Magnahelic gauge needed to set the venturii diaphragm. I ran a non-feedback one on my 312, got 23 mpg with a Borg Warner 3 speed + OD in my 58 F100.

Using the HEI module, good idea, would he need to go to an E-core coil? I would suspect not as the Lucas conversions I did at the dealership were from the OPUS system to the "Constant Energy" system, which was a GM HEI module in a nice aluminum heat sink box that the coil was bolted through with longer bolts. The replacement distributor had a Chrysler pickup and 4 vane trigger wheel. Ran great! If you can find an MG B or Midget with either the conversion or original (also Jag sixes) grab the box and wires.