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One of the issues, which some other people have found out the hard way, is the MAF for the 460. The smaller engines use an 80mm MAF which is easily found on cars with the MAF/SEFI systems. The other is the intake system, the Ford truck engines use a dual throttle body which means the large single hose from the MAF has to branch to connect to the dual throttle body. On the 302 and 351, the intake manifold has a large upper plenum with tuned length runners. This sweeps to the right and sits over the valve cover on that side with the throttle body in a vertical position on the front, it is angled toward the left so the air inlet hoses can connect without too much of a bend. On the 460 EFI system, the lower manifold is basically a aluminum 4 barrel carburetor intake with holes for injectors and sensors. The upper plenum is a question mark shaped piece that points the throttle body straight forward and the IAC valve sits on top of the lower portion. The throttle body on the 302 and 351 engines has the IAC on one side and water for anti icing running through it, the early 460s had this, then it was eliminated. Due to the location of components and the physical size of the 460, the air inlet ducting has to pass over the A/C compressor further complicating things. I had an extra 1995 Lincoln Continental 90mm MAF, and in doing some research found that it and the 460 MAF are listed by rebuilders as the same part. Now came the fun, no MAF 460 stuff anywhere, so how to make something work. I found a 302/351 MAF air filter missing the MAF at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. Using that and the inside mount portion of the extra Continental air filter I was able to build an air filter with a 90mm MAF attached, now how to get it to the throttle body? On the 460, the IAC air inlet comes off the bottom of an H in the air hoses, this also has two restrictor horns, probably to eliminate the "drone" of the 460 at larger throttle openings. First thing to go! After that, I took a 302 wye for an MAF system, a 4" PVC elbow and a section of 4" conduit, one 1/2" PVC street elbow and a short length of 1/2" CPVC pipe and built a 90° inlet for the throttle body with the IAC and crankcase closure hose connections (on an MAF system ALL air going into the engine must pass through the MAF). I found some nice silicone 4" bellows hoses at a truck parts place that are for intercoolers. Now I had the parts to build the MAF system! I built it and used this as my air inlet while I worked on the electrical changes. When I did the initial harness for the engine, since I was planning to go to MAF/SEFI, I had done the engine part with the injectors wire individually and used the chassis side to gang them for bank fired, I did some playing around and regrouped them from the normal truck configuration of 1,4,5,8 and 2,3,6,7 (end 4 and center 4) to grouped like a 180° manifold, 1,4,6,7 and 2,3,5,8 which is how a TBI system would work. This made the engine idle smoother and I hoped would prevent the #5 cyl problem the EFI 460s have. Since I had updated the wiring to the 1992-1996/7 design, I essentially built two front harnesses, one for a BF/SD EEC-IV and one for an MAF/SEFI. I had my local muffler shop install two O2 sensor bungs, one on each exhaust pipe just below the flange and plug them as with the EEC-IV I was using the single O2 sensor near the transmission mount. I found the longest O2 sensor leads listed and ordered them and still had to use an extension on the right side to reach. When I got ready to switch, I took the old harness off, installed the new one (OBD-II port was already mounted and wired) and installed the dual O2 sensors, put one of the plugs in place of the single sensor and installed the new harness. This took maybe an hour. Adam Marrer provided good support for the "teething" problems and Darth does quite well on the MAF/SEFI system and I can make changes to parameters such as spark advance, fuel under open loop, EGR levels and shift points along with lock-up converter lock/unlock points. I have the unlock set at 80% throttle (let the 460s torque do the work) so the transmission doesn't overheat and boil the fluid.

One of the issues I ran into as I was going through my EFI change, first I wanted sequential, not bank fired EFI, second, due to some research, I wanted MAF control not the speed density system. The reason is the MAF is more "tunable" for cam changes as it does not depend on manifold vacuum for part of the control. Ford introduced MAF/SEFI systems on the trucks starting in 1994 on the 5.0L engines and 1995 on the 4.9L and 5.8L, it was used on the 7.5L engines, but only 1996/1997 and almost exclusively in California with automatic transmissions. On the East coast, hen's teeth are more common. I had previously joined a couple of Ford EFI tuning groups and found that I could use an EEC from a 5.0L or even 5.8L as long as it had the E4OD circuits. I had several suggestions of "use a Mustang A9x for it" one big problem, no car ever came with the E4OD, it is strictly a truck transmission. In order to run a Mustang computer, I would need a second computer for the E4OD, at the time that was around $1500 by itself. A contact on one of the EFI groups found me a WAY1 EEC from a 1995 Bronco 5.0L with E4OD, the other group I had joined, TwEECer, is a group for use of a piggyback tuner for the Ford EECs. I was good to go, or so I thought. Wrong, the 5.0L E4OD is set up for a small, higher revving engine than the 7.5L, I really didn't want to be buzzing a 100,000 + mile 460 up like that. After asking numerous times, I was contacted by Adam Marrer at popsracing and he offered me a very comprehensive package. It was to go to an EEC-V system (OBD-II) and use Binary Editor software and a Mongoose pass-through cable to direct flash the EEC-V box. The package included a compatible EEC-V from a 5.8L truck. All I really needed to get another one was the hardware code, ML1-441. I will document the rewiring and adaptation of the EEC-V and MAF in the next update.

1995 California trucks were sequential and MAF, 1996, all are. The one thing on the 300 EFI, early models had a cooling fan that runs after engine shutdown to blow air over the injectors, later engines Ford raised the fuel pressure so it couldn't boil in the fuel rail. I don't have a 300 EFI engine to look at, I am not sure if the injectors are in the head or manifold on those. I do know that the intake is a royal PITA to work on, even worse in a van!

That's true, there is also the pump overtravel spring and if he puts the 2150 throttle shaft in it may have a return spring built in, most of the newer carbs do (government mandated).

If you want to change the throttle shaft, it is a good thought, it would remove having two springs pulling back on the throttle shaft, which, since Ford did not use bushings on their throttle shafts, will wear the aluminum on that 50+ year old carburetor. Some of the rebuilders do bush them during remanufacturing.

Pretty, yes, delicate on mine, not hardly, these are the Alcoas and are roughly 1/2" thick and are rated for the truck's capacity. The 1996 owners manual only cautions about keeping a check on the pressures and cleaning them, no mention of decreased load capacity. The way the lawyers think, they probably increase it as they are lighter than steel rims.

Gary, those are not original until 1994, and they were a pretty pricey option then. Those are the ones Donnie Medlin at Pete's Towing gave me (Pete also said if I wanted them, tell Donnie he said to give them to me).

I am rather partial to these: Front

Yes, good luck with it. One of the biggest problems is the Iowa corn farmers fuel we are forced to buy. Once it sits a while the ethanol absorbs enough water to make a nice corrosive mixture. The Chevstang I am trying to resurrect for the family sat with an almost full tank of that stuff. The tank is supposed to arrive back here later today. It was so full of rust in addition to the dead gas that it had to be cleaned and coated.

HV is the designation for one with a choke pull off, V = vacuum. Rochester designates a basic design, such as B, H 2G, 4G, 4M etc where any number in front is the number of barrels, with one being understood. H is the Corvair carburetor, H being the basic or a manual choke. 1960 and 1961 carbs were H, 1960 had the central choke and 1961 manual chokes. HV is the style used with the choke thermostat underneath on the exhaust manifold. Yes, they are from a 1965 140 HP model. All the Corvair engines except the 180 hp turbo model used 2 HV carbs, 140 HP models used 2 additional H carbs that are like the end carbs on a tri-power 348, partial, no choke or idle circuit.

Nothing to Darth, but spent the last two days working on a set of Rochester H and HV carbs for a friend.

Gary, please read what I posted previously on the bank fired injection. It is 4 end then 4 center cyls. they are grouped 1,4,5,8 and 2,3,6,7 not 1-4 and 5-8. On upgrading the system, a 1987 up bank fired, speed density system has more capability and does away with some of the problem areas on the 1985.5 and 1986 systems. EGR goes from two solenoid valves to one duty cycle valve, TPS is no longer constrained to having to be right at 1.0 volt at closed throttle, knock sensor is moved to the rear of the block and O2 sensor is moved to beyond the Y in the exhaust pipe and is heated, solenoids are moved from the right front fender to the left valve cover area, air filter is located in left front behind the coolant and washer reservoir unit, MAP sensor is moved to the top of the underhood A/C casing. If these location changes are done and the engine harness modified to connect to them, then any later EEC-IV computer could be located in the original position but have better capabilities.

That speed sensor will work fine, on the 1992-96/7 models the PSOM (module in the speedometer) converts the pulses from the tone ring in the rear axle into a speed signal that the EEC and cruise control both can use. The 1992 trucks still used the vacuum cruise control.

Yes, and the harness is in the trunk of a Lincoln Continental a friend is storing for me at his salvage yard in Newport News. I need to get over there sometime anyway as I need to get some parts off a couple of vehicles for my project car.

Gentlemen, the BOO referred to on the EEC pinouts is the brake switch on the pedal. The electronic cruise system monitors it to kill the cruise. The hydraulic switch on the MC is a fail safe, it interrupts the power to the magnetic clutch inside the unit. This connects the gear train to the cable pulley. Other than the speed sensor input that is shared with the EEC, there are no electrical connections to the cruise control from the EFI system. Ford's cruise controls, like later GM ones are a stand alone system. As for the EEC, it monitors the BOO (Brake On Off) switch for the A/T, but it will set a code if it isn't connected and since it is needed for the cruise (either type, vacuum or electronic) it shouldn't be a big deal to tap into it (just like the trailer brakes). Chrysler cruise controls from 1987 on use the ECM for operation. The older mechanical one does not.

Gary, any 300 6cyl with Duraspark, it was not used on the FBC or EFI engines as they have the TFI system with the shutter and Hall effect pickup.

Gary, all 8 cyl bank fired truck EFI systems are grouped 4 end and 4 center cyls. So Injector 1 circuit is 1,4,5,8, injector 2 circuit is 2,3,5,6. If he has a leaking #8 injector the O2 sensor on the 1985-86 302 will not detect it as it monitors 1-4 only (right side). That is why starting in 1987 Ford moved the sensor to beyond the Y in the exhaust. The 1985-86 O2 sensors are not heated so have to be close to the exhaust ports.

Now that the axles were ready it was time to (a) remove the surplus single rear wheel housing and (b) get the replacement with the traction lok and ABS sensor installed. The top plates on the springs were rusted through in a couple of spots. When I had bought the axle from Pete's they had cut one U bolt on each side, leaving the other one and the spring plates along with the brake cables attached. I found that like a lot of items on the truck, the U bolts are metric, M16X1.5 if I remember correctly. This is close to a 5/8-16 so that will give you an idea. Since mine were a bit rusty, I bought a die nut from MSC Supply so I could clean the threads as much as possible. At the same time I started soaking the nuts with PB Blaster. After managing to get all eight of the U bolt legs clean and doing the same on the extras, it was crunch time. With my 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a deep well socket it was time. I jacked up one side and removed both wheels, slid the socket over the nut, put the breaker bar on and pulled, nothing, no squeak, pop, or anything. Ok, time to get serious, I grabbed my "multiplier" a piece of exhaust pipe about 4' long and slid it over the end of the breaker bar, this time I got a loud pop, and it started to loosen. I did the other 3, just breaking them loose and reinstalled only the inner wheel with 4 nuts. I repeated the process on the other side. I got my cherry picker and lifted the "new" axle off and lowered it to where I could put the other 2 wheels on with 4 nuts and sat it on the ground with a block under the pinion area. Now, I removed the brake hose to the old axle and the brake cables. I slid a hitch bar in the receiver and used the cherry picker to raise the back of the truck, then released it and finished removing the old retaining nuts and spring plates along with the factory overload leaves. At this point I was ready to play "musical axles". The brake cables are different on the later axle, not a large amount, but enough that I had already obtained the parts. The 1986 E-brake uses a spring loaded equalizer and a return spring to keep the cable snug when released. The 1992-1996/7 uses a simple bridge equalizer and from 1994 up a self adjusting pedal assembly. The front cable also changed from what I think was a chassis specific cable (length varies with the wheelbase) to a two piece cable with a short pedal to frame cased cable then an extension cable that varies with the wheelbase. Now came the fun, with the old axle just sitting under the frame and the springs sitting on it, no rear fuel tank in the way, the last thing left was the load compensator linkage. Rather then take the lever off the valve and having to readjust it without the gauge, I opted to remove the bracket and linkage from the back of the axle and swing it up out of the way. With the frame raised high enough to clear the tires, I rolled the old axle until it was parallel to the frame then rolled it out to the right and over by the fence. Now I started saying some crude and rude things about the Traction Lok, the "new" axle was a royal PITA to get positioned correctly as both sides wanted to roll together making it almost impossible to "slew" it enough to get it positioned side to side. I finally got it lined up and lowered the frame enough to get the aligning bolts on the springs into the pockets on the spring seats. Once I got both sides in place I released the cherry picker and moved it back. I used some small ratchet straps to pull the axle as far back under the springs as it would go and put the overload springs and "new" upper seats back on and hand tightened the 4 nuts on each side. Then it was big torque wrench time, specification is 150-210 ft-lbs, I have an old 250 ft-lb Craftsman torque wrench that was my dad's, so I torqued them in 50 ft-lb increments to 200 ft-lbs. Now it was back off the ground and do the rear brakes. I had removed all the pieces from all 3 axles as I was preparing things and sorted them fairly well (I thought) I knew that Ford had increased the width of the rear shoes from the 2 1/2" 1986 brakes, I assumed it was to 3" so I used the excellent condition set from the 1990 axle, then when I started looking at the drums, found I had to used the ones form Pete's as they sat deeper and the 1986 and 1990 ones didn't reach the backing plate. I set everything up, sanded the devil out of the biggest drums and put them together. After I had a wheel cyl leak later I found I was only using 3" of the 3 1/2" drum surface, so it was new shoe time anyway. End result, when I step hard on the brakes, it will nearly put you through the windshield!

I wish I had a nickel for every big block MOPAR I got in my shop missing on #7, plug would be an original complete with paint, and usually it would need wires and frequently hotter than a damn firecracker. Burned hands anyone? No excuse for plugs under exhaust manifolds in a tight engine compartment!

Since when did Detroit, or any manufacturer care about serviceability? Some examples, 1959 Desoto, the upper control arm pivot bolts on the left side required removal of the power steering gear to get the rear bolt out. Shop manual says "direction optional", guess which way it went back. 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L V6, alternator lower bolt, in order to remove it a long brace attached to one of the exhaust manifold bolts has to be removed so it will slide out. It will clear the strut tower, so guess how it went back in. Pinto 2.0L, to remove the starter, the right motor mount has to be unbolted so the starter will clear the frame. GM, don't get me started on them! The Chevette takes the cake, with A/C the compressor has to be removed, swung aside then the bracket removed so the distributor cap can come off, if it has power steering, that isn't possible. For a low buck entry level car to take 2 hours to do a 4 cyl tune up is asinine!

What vehicle?

It makes sense from the assembly line standpoint, one less piece per side, simpler operation, possibly done by a robot. Detroit doesn't give a crap about long term serviceability, they are interested in how fast they can build them, If I had gone to the dealer or possibly even an exhaust shop, they would have wanted to replace that next section of the exhaust. A little anti-seize on the CRES nuts onto CRES studs would have gone a long way toward serviceability.

I drilled through and used bolts and nuts to reassemble it. Ford uses a lot of these on newer vehicles, they used to use bolts and nut plates (nut in a tabbed plate so it won't turn) these need only a nut put on them, and it's not the first set I've had a run in with (great niece's 2005 Escape had four at the catalytic converter to exhaust pipe joint).

Here is a better picture with both bolts. The left one is the one that broke on her, right one is the one that broke trying to loosen the nut. These are headless bolts with just a thin head like the flange on a flange head bolt or flange nut. They are put through the exhaust flange and welded to it.

Not on a Ford, but just did the ones on my LeBaron rear suspension, replaced them with Poly Bushings that a fellow in Seattle area makes. Same thing, keep the shell on each side and the flanged bushings are pushed into them.