85lebaront2

Damn you guys make me glad I don't live where I have to deal with that. All we have is a visual, as long as it looks correct you're ok, they aren't even allowed to thump the cat (if it has one) to see if it's been gutted. Nice looking truck!

Not quite sure how to take that. Was the "something" that worked out Bill getting to use the heater core, or you having a spare when a tire went flat? Or maybe both? Anyway, that was an ugly place to change a tire. I have a small bottle jack in addition to the original screw jack, but usually don't have anything on which to place the jack. Maybe I'd better add some small pieces of ply to the tool box. The one in Darth is an AutoZone lifetime one, having the extra just makes it faster, I can swap the extra in, then take the bad one to AutoZone the next time I go up that way (nearest store is in Onley, roughly 30 min each way).

Didn't do anything to it, with it, I took the convertible to Pete's so Donnie can get the floor fixed. I did notice I may have a need for the heater core I got form Jim, I have had a bit of an antifreeze smell when the heat was on, when we stopped at the Cape Charles McDonalds for breakfast it was noticeably stronger, no underhood leaks, so I will have to investigate the heater core.

I'll never catch you, I tend to do my planning, particularly on wiring on Excel spreadsheets so I can match wire colors and connectors. Then I will do a rough layout on the area where it needs to run so I can do my take offs and needed splice locations. Then I will use colored tape to located the clips that hold it and secure the result with zip ties. I tape it much like the factory, but prefer to use wire loom to keep it all together. If I had a jig like the factories use to hold all the wires in place, I could tape it all at once. Mechanical stuff, I will test fit, then once I am satisfied, if new mounting holes need to be made, I will do that after measuring carefully to be sure I don't drill in the wrong place.

You know how those damn Y series Carters are, can't make up their minds, you have YF, YFA, YH and YS that I know of, maybe they made a YU?

Yes, I will second that, my 1966 GT-350 got around 18 mpg @ 55 mph, turning about 2750rpm, at 70 it got 22 turning 3500 rpm, this was with the original R3259 Holley with the dual Holleys it went a little better @ 55 most likely due to the 465 cfm primary carb being at a real good cruise on the primaries, 70 mph dropped a bit, but at the time we had the national 55 mph speed limit so it didn't matter.

After getting the engine running and most of the bugs out it was on to some other items, first was to get the E4OD mounted. I had built a bit of a rig to allow the E4OD cable shifter to work the C6 which of course had a mechanical shift linkage. I pulled Darth around front on my driveway as there was no way I wanted to wrestle with the E4OD on a gravel pad. I had done some preliminary measuring and found that (a) front section of the driveshaft was 3" shorter (b) the crossmember for the E4OD is a completely different design due to the size and length and the exhaust on the 460 being dual at this location. I found that the mount sits 7" further back than the C6. Ford installs the upper bolts from the top on the assembly line before the cab is installed. This makes things real interesting, I was able to use several long bits to reduce the angle drilling from below, but still had to stick nuts back on the four C6 crossmember upper bolts, put two of the E4OD bolts in from below and two I could reach from above. After getting it installed, I found the front driveshaft section I had was the wrong U-joint size for the existing rear section, off to the machine shop to have the old front shortened to match the E4OD front one. Now it was time for the running boards, DeeZee was kind enough to sell me the needed brackets and fasteners for the running boards. I went to Fastenal and matched them all in stainless steel so they wouldn't rust and weld themselves into the aluminum running boards with a mixture of iron and aluminum oxides. The original mounting on these consisted of two plates bent to fit on each side under the door area. These are attached to the bottom of the cab. The front of each board is attached with an aluminum "mud flap" that is screwed into the front fender lip where the optional chrome trim attaches. Due to the change in wheel opening contour between 1986 and 1990, I had to reshape these 3/16" thick plates. The center portion of the boards have two long braces that go from under the boards to the inner joint just outside the frame area, these were the pieces that were badly rusted. Since DeeZee no longer makes the extruded aluminum running boards, only stamped ones, the brackets didn't exactly fit and required some reshaping. The rear of the boards at the cab back I used some of the old brackets and some of the new to get a solid mount at that point. I as much as I could avoided using self tapping screws but opted for 1/4-20 stainless bolts, self locking nuts and flat washers on thin areas. All fasteners were coated with anti-seize before assembly. During the interior modifications for the dash, in doing some reshaping of the mounts, I slipped and hit the windshield, since I knew it would be a royal PITA to deal with, I removed the Lund visor over the windshield and discovered that Lund used #7 self tapping screws with caps over them. Ever try to find #7 self tapping screws? I ended up installing 1/4-20 rivnuts in place of the holes and now have stainless steel button head Allen screws holding it on. Safelite in Hampton VA was supposed to come to the house, but the day of the appointment was a drizzly day so the asked if I could drive the truck to their location. I did, but in cutting the old windshield out, their wire caught the VIN plate and half split it (no attention to detail). They started at first with the disclaimer that due to the age of the truck they could not guarantee no leaks. When they were done I asked how much rust they found (I pretty well knew the answer as I had pulled the trim first). They said almost non and all surface that they wire brushed and primed before installing the new windshield. Before I installed the bed I bought a long enough piece of square tubing, I think it was 2" X 2" with a 1/8" wall to suspend the back end of the bed running boards from as they were really wobbly the way they were mounted. Once I had all the fuel lines and the axle work done (more on that later), I got three friends over and we picked the 1996 bed up and set it on the frame, all the holes matched perfectly. I had to get 4 of the bolts from Ford, the ones LMC truck sells only fit the center set of holes, the other four require a special bolt with a shank that looks like it was stepped on. This fits snugly (in theory) in the square reinforcement tubes between the bed floor and frame contact point so the self locking nuts can be tightened from below. I had a friend who I had helped straighten out an issue on his show truck wiring do the rear fenders, I had 3, my two originals and one that came with the 1996 bed. I didn't, nor did he realize that Ford had made two changes in the dually fenders, one when the 10.25" axle was introduced in 1985 and another in 1987 when the bed was slightly redesigned. The second change was a styling change making the two fender styles completely different, components are the same, fastener locations and fuel doors are the same design, so most parts fit. Since I already had the 1996 style rear harness and the bed had come with the taillights and wiring along with the clearance light wiring that was just a matter of plugging things in. Now things were looking like a truck again!

Thanks. At least I know why it was done, but wow it ran like garbage at 6*. Gary, even though I set it at 10* it was actually sounding better the higher I went (to a point). I might try giving it a little more. I can bring the timing light in case the altitude changes cause knocking but if it is safe to run it that high I will give it a try. For operation mouse I think I'm going to have to remove the AC condenser and heater cores, blow them out with compressed air and wash them under running water. Then vacuum and wipe out the housing boxes with bleach water. I already washed out the upper ducts but I might do it again just to be thorough. My suspicion is that there is still mouse pee and feces in the fins of the AC and heater cores and that is where most of the smell is coming from. Whatever it is I have to find it. It is disgusting and unsanitary. Hantavirus comes to mind... I will probably get another blower motor to replace the eaten one, but not before the trip. I just don't have time and it seems to be working okay. Well, I better get back to it, thanks guys for the info and advice! 🙂 I believe you said it is a 1986 carburetor, does it still have any of the feedback carburetor stuff hooked up and if so is it functional? Since you have a 1981 truck, it should still be Duraspark and just time it where it runs best.

The reason for the different timing, manual vs. automatic transmission. A lot of vehicles were that way for years so they wouldn't spark knock if they were lugged down in gear.

It should be, that is a shorter direction to go than underneath.

Gary, a picture from the 1996 F-series service manual.

No, just 2 1/2, Janey's face reminds me of my sister's. The older of the two, the younger one is nearly 14 years younger.

Damn Gary, Janey looks a lot like my sister.

Gary, every York or Tecumseh compressor I have ever seen used on Fords were two cyl. either upright or horizontal, the cylinders are in line and the suction/discharge areas are on the sides. They were designed to be universal size, the only changes were if it was horizontal to know where the suction was so the oil would drain properly.

Gary, a long time ago I was reading about using a York or Tecumseh twin for an air compressor, The suction chest on those goes into the sump so yes you would need an oil separator, but I seem to recall there was a way to block the passage, since the crankcase pressure would be pretty static due to being a vertical twin and just put a breather in place of one of the fill plugs and use motor oil in the sump, probably a slight overfill so the rods actually splash it around. Get an old electric air compressor tank that will stand 90-100 psi, use a pressure switch to cycle the clutch off and on as needed once you activate it. Stick the tank outboard of the frame on the right side and you could even plumb air to both sides and ends.

No, and the strange thing was it showed me as not logged in, but let me post???

Gary, FWIW, I have been using Edge for a while now. Today we are back to strange login issues again. See attached:

Unfortunately they are already spoken for.

Do you want me to check on them? I am about 60 miles North of VB and pass through there to go anywhere but North.

Gee, I wonder where that EVTM came from??

Gary, I will have to look for it later, we are going up into Maryland for dog grooming and shopping.

Gary, SPOUT is in the front harness near the left side hood hinge, it electrically is in the wire from EEC to ICM. HO2S 21 is a catalyst efficiency monitor, that, misfire, and catalyst over temp are disabled on Darth. EGR is set to "sonic" as the required EGR tube with pressure taps and orifice is NLA from any source, canister purge is set to VMV as I found one. If it is set to purge valve then it wants a tank pressure input. On the A/C compressor, the wiring for the clutch is in the engine side of the harness and the pressure switch just tells the EEC to turn it on and adjusts the idle accordingly. Data link is the OBD-II port, wasn't in trucks in any fashion other than Powerstroke models until 1996. What wiring information were you looking for that I sent?

Ok, here is your sensor list: MIL: I'll use the existing "Emissions" light above the instruments Yes Data Link: This is the OBD-II connector Add Low Range: I'll feed the transfer case switch output to the computer Yes Ignition: The TFI module will be connected Mount on rear of L front fender VSS: The output of the sensor on the speedo output of the t-case will go to the computer Yes O2 Sensors: All three heated oxygen sensors will be used, and each has 4 wires No, rear is turned off MAF: The mass air flow sensor will be used Yes ECT: Engine Coolant Temp Yes IAT: Inlet Air Temp In air filter preferably FPM: Fuel Pump Monitor so the computer knows the relay is closed Yes A/C Clutch: Tells the computer there's a load on the engine Actually, A/C clutch is controlled by EEC CKP: Crankshaft Position Sensor - which is in the distributor Along with CMP needed for sequential system SPOUT: Let's you set the timing by disabling the computer-controlled advance? Fuel Injectors 1-8 Yes IAC: Idle Air Control Same as SD TPS: Throttle Position Sensor Same as SD BOO: Brake On/Off switch Yes MAP is not used MAF tells EEC the airflow.

I was thinking maybe for Dad's inside, Big Blue, From what I remember the 90 was enough different from the 1986 that it wasn't workable without changing the under hood portion. 1986 used all screw together joints and 1990 is springlock fittings.