85lebaront2

I would post pictures, but the owner might get upset since this is a Ford Bullnose site. The gentleman I was doing his late father's Chevstang for has pretty well finished up the floors. I am waiting for him to mail the one good, one soso door check so I can take the three I salvaged from the 1988 Reliant donor vehicle and have four good ones. Then I will take the front fenders over with the door checks as they are a royal PITA to do with the fenders on and we will attach them and he will straighten the fenders where something hit the right one.

Back it out a bit if it is banging into the gears, make sure nothing is keeping the rod from coming all the way forward. If you do have a transmission flush done, be damn sure they replace the filter afterwards, otherwise all the varnish and sludge in it will wind up in the filter. One thing, Ford transmissions do have converter drain plugs, it is on the front of the converter on an AOD.

The rod should move freely as far as the throttle lever will push it and will have some overtravel so it won't bind. Did the shift into direct feel a little earlier and still firm? If it is you are going the right way, these are real touchy, the Ford adjustment calls for a spacer block and pressure gauge, but as I pointed out, feel will get you in the right place, we did the old Hydramatics and fine tuned Torquflites and Powerglides that way along with some even stranger stuff, Ultramatics and Detroit Gear DG 250s.

And will also connect with a 1988-91 E4OD length cable. That 7" longer is what gets you.

Sounds good sir! You are dealing with 33 year old wiring, same thing I am running into on my Chrysler convertible (it's actually 32 years old). I am finding splices that are corroded, tape that has petrified etc. This is all compounded by Chryslers totally illogical wire color and circuit numbering system. I will be going through a diagram and see a color with* next to it, means "may not be this color", they also love to go into a bunch splice one color and come out with two or three different ones.

Steve, that would also explain no in-tank pump, the black wire is the ground for both sender and pump. How is the PK/BK H one? That is the in-tank pump power. Sounds like you are closing in on it!

So does Darth, I put poly radius arm bushings in years ago shortly after I bought him, which was also the last time I got a front end alignment. Tires still wear dead even after 24 years.

Yep. To add to Gary's post, as the tires pull out due to the toe, the swing arms (traction beams) make the tires go up. That's why they tip up on the inside edge and tip the tops in. I couldn't figure out what you were talking about, because I have never seen that on Darth, must be a TTB quirk.

Yes, and I am not sure there wasn't an update to the 1985 EVTM as I don't ever recall seeing a 1985.5 without either the 4 or 6 port reservoir or reservoir tank selector valve unit right behind the high pressure pump.

That's right, been a long time since I saw any M engine, let alone a stock unmolested one.

Did you pull the EGR spacer up? Even if it is the cast Iron one the gaskets can still leak.

Every king pin bushing I have seen except the polyethylene ones are steel shells with a bronze insert and have to be reamed to size after installation.

Ray, from looking at my diagrams, C120 is the connection going to the pumps, if there are dual tanks, it shows a pigtail between C119 (inertia switch) and C120 (pumps feed) that goes back to the tank selector switch and from there to the tank units. What I am seeing, and the 1985.5 may have actually been different because it shows the 6 port motorized valve like the hot fuel package 460s used. The 1986 shows essentially the exact same system for a single tank, only the resistance wire is not used on the F-series. On the dual tank 1986 EFI the tank selector switch is shown as an added section in the harness with one end being at C120, the other becomes C127 to feed the high pressure pump. The selector switch then powers either of the in-tank pumps and connects the respective gauge sender at the same time. Does the 1985 EVTM give locations, or are you using the 1986 one?

Steve, if you look at what I posted earlier, that was the 1985 EFI pump system with the single tank. The inertia switch, which I take it you found, is typically on the heater ducting right side of center. I doubt your problem is the inertia switch, if it was bad, the high pressure pump would not run. The pumps are wired in parallel like headlights. The problem must exist in the wiring to and from the in-tank unit. For reference in looking at the diagrams C is a connector and S is a splice. I have seen some very funky splices after 30+ years, considering I am dealing with similar vintage Chrysler stuff. At least Ford, (a) numbers connectors and splices and (b) sticks to pretty much the same circuit numbers and colors (or should it be colours) from year to year. Does the 1985 EVTM show locations? I know the 1986 one is real good about pictures of locations.

I was able to get mine from RockAuto in Dorman's repair parts line.

Yes, 1986 says Bronco only, 1985 shows it and looks just like the 1985 EVTM pages you shared.

Steve, in tank pump on yours should get battery voltage when the relay is closed unless for some reason everything on the 1985.5 EFI system is completely different from the 1986-89 EFI pumps. My AllData shows a 1000 ohm resistance wire on the feed to the in-tank pump, which was eliminated in 1986. If you are only seeing 4 volts, the one question becomes, is this with the pump connected? If so, then one of two possibilities, bad connection, or pump is stuck from sitting. If Ford used the same pump in 1986-89 then try bypassing the resistance wire and see if will run then.

Will a good used one do? I think I have an extra driver's side, but should also have a passenger side. Motorcraft number is WPT-1109 if you want to try to find a new one.

Mark, since you have the Motorcraft 2150, look behind the choke housing and check two things, there is a plastic lever that raises the fast idle cam and on WOT allows the throttle lever to push the choke partially open. FWIW (and I have seen people make this mistake) proper set procedure is push the pedal down and release it fully, then start the engine, it should com up to a reasonable higher idle depending on ambient temperature. If the plastic lever has broken, then you will never have a fast idle. If you still have no fast idle, look at your emission label (hopefully still readable) and see what the specified fast idle is. It will be a hot setting and on a Motorcraft 2150, there is a small arrow on the cam, this is where the fast idle screw rests for this setting.

Gary, AllData does not have a good set of diagrams for a 1987 truck EFI system but a CEL/MIL is shown on the warning indicators. Maybe Jim can check his 1987 EVTM sometime. 1988 does show it and it is pigtailed off the STO wire from pin # 17 of the EEC which is the same wire you can use a test light or voltmeter to read the codes. So it looks like the CEL/MIL started in 1987, but the emission light was there earlier, but not used for anything except to sell service. You might be able to rewire it to pin # 17 and the STO wire and use it, I do not know if the 1985.5-1986 EECs will actually illuminate it.

Darth had one and it never came on, he also had the IMS there connected to it.

Mark, other than Diesels the tachs are the same there is a wire that is grounded for 8 cyl, left unconnected for 6 cyl.

Rotate the crank until #1 piston is at TDC (top of bore) and see where the 0° TDC mark is, that's where the pointer goes. I know on the 460s it is on the right (passenger) side. FWIW, manuals, parts lists and mechanics use left or right as the engine sits in the vehicle. From the pictures in AllData, it appears to be the same as the 460s.

Steve, I seem to recall that is an AOD, is the back up lamp/neutral safety wiring plugged in, it may have two connections, one on the transmission and one possibly near the transmission crossmember to frame bolts on the driver's side.

Steve, figure $5 + shipping. I will throw the male/female electrical connectors, 4 each in with them. What you might want to do, since you have the later style negative cable anyway, is put a ground lug on the small pigtail and connect it to the inner side of the fender and when you make the chassis side of the EFI system ground attach it there. That will also help with the abysmal ground system on these trucks. Do you still want the vacuum valve set, or were you going to a newer computer? If you want it I will box everything up together. It may be a couple of days, ole man winter is trying to hang on for a couple more weeks.