85lebaront2

Gary, I went and looked at (a) the one on Darth, (b) the one on the new engine and © the spare. What I found was the three screws from the bottom, rail PN on regulator mount area is: E9TE-GA which tells me it is probably the second generation rail (first from 1988-1989 would have had the supply and return near the front). The one on Darth and the spare appear identical (I didn't try to read the number on Darth's) PN on the regulator mount is F4TE-EA and the sticker on the spare has F6TE-FD and 09-12-95 on it. Pictures attached. Darth's fuel rail:

Looks nice!

I need to look at the three I have here before I reply.

No EGR vacuum at idle, not if you want it to idle. Red line from intake is vacuum source to control valve, it should have vacuum with the engine running.

The right side should have the screw in PCV valve, and if it hasn't been intercoursed with they should match.

RE, valve covers, first I was wrong on the size, they are 3/8" heads. On the covers, early ones are an E7TE number, later F5TE.

Not that I know of, I do not think they were serviced.

Difference is the O-ring depth and PCV valve style, yes they are interchangeable as a pair (only so you don't need two sets of gaskets). The reason for the deeper groove was so the O-ring didn't get cooked as badly and would still seal. The coating you are worried about looks like gray engine paint that came off. Suggestion on them, remove the retainers so you can take the steel bolts out of the aluminum covers and save the seal washers. Interesting side note, Ford was having problems with sealing on those and the cast aluminum oil pans on some of the 4 cyl engines. NNS, through our service subsidiary, Newport News Industrial, got the job of testing the components and sealing methods which is probably where the deeper O-ring groove came from. I have a pair of incompletely machined 460 valve covers left over from that, one has a small piece of the reinforcement rib removed for a chemical analysis by the Baird Atomic spectrometer. Next time I go over there, I will see if I can grab them.

I would wash them carefully first, the 1995 is what Ford called an "anti-sludging" design. I can't read the label by the screw but it is probably like mine. The anti-sludging ones I believe were Teflon coated on the inside bores, so you would not want to destroy that. Yes, the dummy passages would have been the water lines. One pressed in fitting was on each side, but I am not sure that piece is even on the 1990. Yes, the one with the holes is the desirable one to use, that's what is on Darth currently, once I can find (a) the exact angle for the cable location and (b) a suitable intake system, I will be using a V10 throttle body as it's bigger.

Yes, there is a standard, the "Do Not Adjust" is the keep someone without the correct procedure and tools from screwing with it. The standard on these is a minimum air flow which is set Engine warmed up, Shut off, Unplug IAC (which leaves it closed), Start engine, Set base idle, Shut off, Reconnect IAC. I do not think it was in gear, but it might be. I think on Darth it is 650 rpm, normal idle in the BE software is 750.

I do have an extra TB as I am using the later "do not clean" one from a 1995 or 1996. It is already apart and I can send you the bare body so you can do your clean and powder coat on the body and then transfer the parts from yours cleaning and coating as you go. I thing this one has a good adjustable throttle stop screw. FWIW, very early, 1988-89? models did have a water heated throttle body and up to a point the casting still had the undrilled passage areas in them. Apparently Ford decided it wasn't needed and did away with it. The vestige shows up in the E4OD models as the 3/8" bypass line.

Gary. I believe if you check they are metric and use a 10mm wrench.

Looks good!

Left or right side Gary, and how deep is the O-ring groove? There are two different EFI 460 VCs, regular and heavy duty, two differences, regular has a shallower O-ring groove and a push in PCV valve on the right. Heavy duty has a deeper groove and a screw in PCV valve.

Your call on that, Matt sent me a link one time to a fellow on eBay who does them for the Mustang 5.0L engine. He didn't have any 30s at that time. The determining factor is duty cycle needed for the engine's fuel requirements, anything over 85% at WOT is pushing the limits of the injector coils. Too big and you can get overfueling with a stock computer as it's program is expecting a certain size injector and in open loop bases the pulse time on that value, too small and you will lean out at WOT high RPM, sort of like pulling more fuel from a carburetor than the pump can supply.

24 should be adequate, I was going to go with 30s but the Ford racing (best ones according a Chevy EFI guru) are NLA so I had to go to 47s. Depends on what the engine will actually need. The newer ones might be a little better, but whichever I would send them to be rebuilt and tested.

Yes, they are the correct factory injectors for an EFI 460.

I don't know specifically what the difference is, but the fact that it came out with the F3TE heads might be the reason. I have an F3TZ-9424-E on the new engine as it has the RF-F2TE-9K461-BA casting number.

Yes, the injectors are too large for the computer's programming, it is set for 19#/hr injectors, 24#/hr are 126% of the size expected. I do not recall seeing a single shot of fuel at the initial "key on" on any EFI system. Every one I have worked on requires some form of "engine is turning" signal. On the Ford truck systems we are dealing with it is the PIP signal from the distributor. One more item to try, unplug the red/blue wire from the starter relay and repeat, only turn the key to "start" and see if the injectors spray without the engine actually turning.

1995, I think the PN changed from an E7 or E8 PN to an F2 PN. According to AllData the PN for a 1990 is F3TZ-9424-E so it must have changed. They do not give the PN for 1988 or 1989, but your parts CD should have it. The one on the new engine has F2TF-9K461-BA cast on it which I believe is the later casting

Do you want an extra lower to powder coat? I have at least one spare, but need to look at the PN, there is a change in 1992.

On the doors, the bricknose and later models have the seat belt retractors down low and the belt runs up, through a guide then back down to attach to the floor for the "endless loop". On the bullnose the seat belt retractors are up about head level so the belt feeds straight out from them for the "endless loop". The problem this creates on the bullnose doors to brick or aeronose is the bulge in either the rear cab pillar or B post on a crew cab, the bullnose doors do not have the needed recess for the seat belt retractor. Going the other way is no problem, but the aeronose doors have a sculptured recess outside near the bottom that the bullnose and bricknose lack. Windows, front windows on a bullnose are wider than bricknose or aeronose, but if the matching wing vent assembly is used, then they work perfectly, but, the aeronose wing vents have a truncated front corner so the driver's side will clear the dash. Power window wiring, the long side of the harness changed, early models, I believe through 1991 the long side is on the driver's side door harness, 1992 up it reverses so the long harness is on the passenger side door harness, this only becomes an issue if you are adding power windows and locks with a door swap then it becomes an issue, but from my experience the plug ins for the fuse box still match. If you are simply installing later or earlier doors, use the existing truck harnesses, it's a lot easier. I will dig up and post my pictures, or you can look at my Darth Vader posts in projects.

The Falcon was the stock Long 10" semi-centrifugal used on the 260 with 3 speed, Shelby had a Performance American Zoom racing clutch, which after it spit all of the damper springs out of the Lakewood scattershield was replaced with a new Ford Hi-Po 289 assembly and never had another problem after that.

Front fender rear attachment is completely different, bullnose has a vertical bolt into the lower front corner of the cab, bricknose and areonose use a horizontal bolt into a nut clip in a slotted bracket. As has been mentioned, wheel openings are a different shape and the radiator support is different. Inner fenders are slightly different. Other items, battery tray is different and takes a different battery and hold down, radiator overflow tank is different, front bumper on a bullnose is bolted directly on the frame "horns", headlight wiring is completely different, if you have an EFI truck (most likely scenario) the mounts for the air filter, radiator overflow and washer are not on the left fender inside area. It can be done, I did the reverse on Darth for some of the reasons mentioned as I was going to EFI from a carbureted 460 and the front fenders were both in bad shape from the PO parking by "feel".

Yeah, they do have a nice feel, particularly the old Long semi-centrifugal ones, until the damn cross tube splits at the end. Had that happen on both my Falcon and Shelby.