85lebaront2

Gary, I bought my Innovate used from a fellow who had used it in tuning his Mustang. I did have to replace the sensor about a year later and it can either be ordered from Innovate, or, since it is a standard Bosch wideband, from a source like RockAuto by Bosch PN. On the output, the interface into BE for data logging was included with my package (along with a TwEECer which I no longer have) and does very well as I have it at the H where the factory single O2 sensor went so it reads the combined stream. Mixture control is the dual sensors, one on each bank on the pipes just below the manifold flanges.

Gary, ECA and FPR along with the inertia switch will affect all the pumps, Other than the actual connector plugs on the tanks, the tank selector switch is the only electrical item in the circuit that does not affect the high pressure pump, even the ground, G701, is the same.

Well, I just hit 72 about 2 weeks ago, I am a retired "lab rat" from Huntington Ingalls Industries, Newport News Shipbuilding. I have been working on various types of machinery since about the age of 14 and have owned a number of different vehicles, Ford, Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Lincoln, Packard, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Mercury, Shelby American. Oldsmobile and Subaru. All of my trucks have been Fords. I have built or modified a number of cars and trucks over the years, from my first car, a 1964 Falcon with a 260 V8 and 3 speed all the way up to my current projects, Darth Vader, my 1986 F350 and my 1986 Chrysler Lebaron convertible. I used to own a carburetor shop, and have probably worked on at least one example of every carburetor made from Autolite to Zenith including a rare Autolite inline four barrel. I started dabbling with turbochargers on my late father's 1966 Corsa 180 hp, followed by a 1963 Jetfire, now a 2.2L intercooled Chrysler. My first foray into injected engines was a Rochester Ram Jet dribble system off a 283 Corvette engine that I had acquired and wanted to try to adapt to my 260, then a Bosch D-Jetronic on a 1971 M-B 250C. I have converted my truck from a carbureted engine and C6 transmission to MAF/SEFI and E4OD. I have also added a few updates like a later cargo/brake light, all 4 doors power windows and locks, remote keyless entry with the number pad on the door, automatic day/night mirror with compass and automatic headlamps and the LCM controlled interior lights. In the works, electronic automatic climate control.

Ray, Gary said it, much the same reason I stayed with a Ford EEC-V system. I can carry a junkyard EEC-V box with the correct hardware code and reflash it to my current tune in maybe 15 mins, it will actually take longer to swap the box than get it programmed. I can carry a pre-flashed spare with me on a long trip and at worst case can find a 1996/7 EEC for a 351 W/E4OD in a junkyard and reflash it. Aftermarket, call the source, tell them what you have and maybe you might have something in 2-3 days, more likely a week or more. I would not want to be up in WV at my son's or Texas at my other son's and have to sit and wait on parts.

In the YouTube videos is one of Darth's exhaust. that is a walk around but the last 1/2 roughly is the exhaust. Anyone who doubts the torque a 460 has, look at how much the tailpipe moves just goosing the throttle with no other load.

I've worked on enough of them to know (a) what they look like and (b) how they work. If it was being used with an automatic, it could be pressure sourced from it.

Ok, a few items, first damn the GV unit looks like a Laycock Denormanville overdrive. For support, make a yoke that will fit the front bolt pattern of the GV and brace it to the transfer case, two wexaples, Chrysler engine to transmission braces and Chevy truck engine mount to a cast aluminum torque converter cover. For a remote mount transfer case, go look at some military 2 1/2 or 5 ton trucks, they had a remote transfer case as did the old M37 Dodges. I do not remember a slip joint on our 5 tons just a double u-joint stub shaft, but I think they had solid engine mounts. If the GV output is a slip yoke then that should cover it, alignment will be fairly critical however.

Gary, the 6 port tank selector on the EFI is not the motor operated beast on the hot fuel handling package 460. It is a combination reservoir and tank selector and on the 1986 models has a filter in it. The fuel tank selector switch (page 104 of the 1986 EVTM) shows it as being the only thing common to both in-tank pumps. The relay and inertia switch are in the circuit before the switch and would also affect the high pressure pump.

Gary, on the WDDTYT thread, when I click on the latest listed time, it takes me to the beginning of the thread. That is the only one it happens on, too many pages?

The system I designed and had built for my 77 with the 390 Camper Special engine, was left side back over the suspension cross member, then cross under the C6 extension housing and into a Corvair Turbo muffler turned vertically. Right side back over the suspension cross member and into another Corvair Turbo muffler turned vertically. There was a short H connection right where the two sides came together. The left side muffler was in front of the right side so the pipes ran close together. The dual tailpipes ran down the right side, over the axle and out on a 45° angle just ahead of the bumper. That way they were clear with or without the pickup camper in.

When you get the starter, it may have a small wire from it's solenoid. The starter system will need a change and you will still need a fender mounted relay to actuate the starter solenoid. Wiring change is: Move the present large wire from the relay to the starter to the same post on the relay as the battery + cable. The other end goes to the post on the new starter solenoid. The small wire (if installed) or add one goes where the old large wire went on the relay. Even with a crappy Chinese fender relay it will not weld together. Note to Gary, maybe a nice diagram or pictures in the tech section if they aren't already there.

Steve, if your truck is an automatic, the starter for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0L is the one to look for. If it is a manual transmission, a later 5.0L truck starter will be the correct one.

Steve, do yourself a favor and get a later PMGR starter, it draws less power and cranks faster.

The Diesel does weigh even more than a 460, then add the second battery, 4WD adds a bunch more weight. Darth is a 2WD crew cab DRW truck and empty weight on a certified scale a couple of years ago was 6400 lbs.

The relay on the fender is welded together, best Chinese quality!

One swap that I have seen on a lot of 4WD in-lines is the old Ford/Holley 4000, the one with the float bowl over the main body. It is a small carburetor that will damn near run on it's side as all the fuel metering elements are in the center of the bowl and the dual pontoon float is almost circular. We put 2 Stromberg 4A carbs on a 250 cid Chevy years ago. That was the early Buick Nailhead carb and was similar in design to the WCFB except for a power valve instead of metering rods.

That was one of the reasons for wanting the E4OD. I used to have the 460 turning 2700 rpm towing at 55-60 mph with the C6, With the E4OD in 3rd I turn 2200 at 54 mph loaded, highway, 1500 rpm in 4th at 55 mph, around 1800 at 70 mph. Gas mileage varies from 10 to as high as 12.5 with a very low compression 460 and a truck that weighs 6400 lbs empty and is running 6 tires on the road.

He says he's got some polished aluminum ones, so put them on the 429/460 group.

Figure out exactly what you have in them and I will pass it on to Del. He may be able to pick them up on his way East mid-month.

Looks interesting, of course nothing for a K-car or the 2.2-2.5L engines, but I can go through the individual items and find a lot of it.

Damn, interesting thoughts on all of them. Gear Vendors unit sounds like the English Laycock de Normanville unit used on Jaguars, Austin-Heally 3000s and in a lighter version MGs. I believe either Chrysler or AMC used them in the 70s on their manual transmission cars as an option. I do know that once you have reached the needed speed they can be shifted in or out with a flip or slide of the switch. You are correct on the cone clutch being the weak link, but, there is also a sprag clutch that carries the output during the shift up or down and it is where I have personally seen failures on the MG units. DNE2 Would it be possible to convert the shifting system from a worm drive electric motor to either a vacuum or air pressure system? This could also incorporated a 4X4 lockout similar to the late model shifter interlocks (depress brake to shift from Park) Gearing I am running a 3.55 rear in Darth, plenty of power and pretty good acceleration even with a well used low compression (lower than normal due to early EFI heads on a carbureted short block). I can even, if I stomp the throttle from a standstill light all 4 rear tires.

I was thinking about finding a set of them for Del's 76 Ranchero. He is going to a Holley EFI system, hence the availability of a Motorcraft 4300D for the carburetor museum.

I know the later trucks, 1992 up with the stub column have universals, one at each end of the intermediate shaft.

Will one from a 1968 Mustang help anyone? I ended up with it left over after I had to essentially make a column from two for the Chevstang.

Ok, that will give him the PN to look for. On the axle, the the change was only the pickups, the cab and chassis still had the old Dana axle. I found out about it the first time I got Darth inspected 24 years ago. The inspector raised the lift until the arms cleared the bed, then had me back in. He explained that the pickup rear was wider than the 1986 F350 wrecker they had.