85lebaront2

I have linked portions of this site or the whole thing as needed on FB when people are asking for information that can be found here. It saves me from trying to dig it up, post it then read all the BS from "experts" as they try to confuse the issue.

Yes, you were thinking ZF5 trannys. The SROD, T18, the old RUG 3 speed, all have a separate clutch housing.

Gary, if it is the T18 or any other manual that has a separate clutch housing it could be the same transmission. Bigger concern would be is his the light duty F250 or the heavy duty F250? Rear axle style and wheel bolt pattern will tell on that. If it has the semi-floating axle then it will be the light duty, full floating is the heavy duty (one of Ford's idiosyncrasies of the era) which continued into the late 90s with the new body and mod motored F250 in 98 followed by the Super Duty body so the Power Stroke would fit under the hood.

Radiator is the same, trans, unless it's a manual that would have been changed too, gearing use your axle ratio and look at the tow ratings in the owner's manual (if you have it).

I removed the skin from the frame, big mistake, to fix the dent as I could not pull in out the way I wanted. When I put it back together I did glue the skin to the frame again, don't remember what I used at this time, but it is where the frame is not is where you cant press to sand. So between the areas the frame is and is not makes for high & low spots when sanding. If I get out to the garage today I will rethink this hood deal as there had to be a better way. I have a Lock Right Locker in my factory v8 Gremlin, 96 in wheel base car. That was fun in the rain around corners, short wheel base would come right around with no warning! Dave ---- Interesting, I have the factory limited slip in Darth, biggest issue I run into, one of my neighbors has a deep piled, not packed down gravel driveway, if I try to turn around the front wheels will get stuck in the loose gravel and if I am not careful the rear duals will start spinning and spray it everywhere. Locking differentials, my 1966 GT350 had a 3.89 gear with a Detroit Locker which is a ratchet style unit. The faster turning axle freewheels so on a turn the inside rear does all the driving. I never had a problem in either rain or even snow. I think the wheelbase on the early Mustangs was 106", but the weight distribution was on the order of 55/45 so it wasn't super nose heavy at 2800 lbs (amazing what some light front end parts and limited sound deadening does). I could spin both rear wheels very easily if I wanted to, but in the 11 years I owned it, had learned how to drive it smoothly.

Damn, could have fooled me, mine had vacuum closed bowl vents that went to the evaporative canisters, it was all part of the snake's nest of plastic rubber and metal that hid a lot of the engine.

And that, the informal definition, is the one I'm using. I agree with that train of thought which is why I voted for it. It is rapidly becoming the "go to" resource for information on the 1980-86 trucks.

It cleared up all by itself, so no further problems.

There is still no idle mixture setting procedure. If I have the 1985 or 86 big emission manual I will see if it has anything. I know they are a pain to adjust due to the location on the mixture screws.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but wouldn't that be for trucks sold to RV manufacturers to build motorhomes? Recreation would probably also have a 6 digit DSO and an "incomplete vehicle" label. On an E series it would be a cutaway, just a chassis and driver's area with the RV manufacturer providing a separate label with their information.

You haven't lived until you have experienced a blower motor resistor fire in an early Corvair, the resistor is in the right side defroster nozzle and if there is lint, paper scraps from old inspection stickers etc, you will get a nice set of flames licking the inside of the windshield.

Had the site, tell me I wasn't logged in again, and I used to get a dull purple color on any forums I had read recently, not right now though.

Gary, looks good to me, you might want to add the Canadian District codes as they are alpha-numeric and should be on one of the pictures I sent you.

No problem sir, it looks like it was an evolving term.

I will post what I have to you in an email later. I have 1980 Pinto/Bobcat/Mustang II, 1986 Truck, 1994 Taurus/Sable, 1995 Continental and 2011 Flex for information. In all but the Flex DSO is show as District code and a list of districts is provided, the Flex manual just sort of ignores it.

I will, I am also going to see what my 1994 Taurus manual and if I have it here the 1995 Lincoln Continental manual have under that section.

Really interesting, because I had one on those 1966 GT350s, SFM 6S2050 Interesting how they were built, then rebuilt by Shelby. Side note, the original Ford VIN is stamped upside down on the block behind the alternator and the Ford stamped in VIN is covered up by the Shelby American VIN plate. The Shely stamped in VIN is on the right side opposite where Ford stamped it. On the back of the driver's door the holes are there for the Ford VIN plate, but nothing was ever there. Door sills have CS on them instead of Ford.

No, they just get a better price.

One of the issues with a crew cab, since there is no door post on the front for the sticker, it had to be on the back of the driver's door. Great, until you need to replace a door. Now at least I know where I can get one, I need to see if my favorite MAACO has ever ordered from them and what it will cost for him to order me a new one for Darth. Freedom Ford (now Wynne Ford) in Hampton VA was able to get me a new emission label.

Gary, I will need to look at the 1986 manuals, FWIW, Darth has 23 in the DSO location.

The Spitfire 6 I believe did, the Spitfire V8, no.

Width of it, M37 hood is pretty narrow at best, even the Poly motor might be pushing it, BTW they were built in up to 354 ci in the 1957 lower line Chryslers, sold as the Spitfire with the Hemi being the Firepower in either 354 or 392 ci. As far as I can find, the blocks were pretty much the same, just the heads were different. The Poly engine was to save some of the cost of the Hemi by eliminating the second rocker shaft, it also is narrower than the Hemi as the exhaust valves are near vertical.

MOPAR built some pretty big flat head 6s, you have to remember prior to 1951, most MOPARS were flat head 6s. a few 8s, but mostly 6s and Chrysler had a 265 ci one through 1954, Plymouth's biggest was a 230 ci. The bigger 6s were longer head length. and can be built, not like a stovebolt or Ford 240/300 and not quite to the Hudson Hornet level either, but can be built for some power.

We have well water here, with a softener to remove the extra minerals. Fortunately we can get good well water even though we are less than a mile from the Atlantic Ocean.

First, in 1986 the crew cab DRW trucks could not be ordered as a factory 4WD, In fact I am not sure any 1986 F350 DRW truck could be factory 4WD, Ford did sell a number of cab & chassis 4WD models, but they have the Dana 60 rear and a narrower track. Second, if I had wanted 4WD, I would have opted for a mono-beam front end with the Dana "king pin" style as it has cone roller bearings top and bottom so no ball joints. As for "real trucks" lets not talk about Blue Jeans, with its FWD sedan front end, or "dad's" with the twin traction beam coil spring system. I like the ride the coils give up front having driven 4WD F250s and my 1958 F100, the scout camp cornbinder, and any number of Mxx USMC trucks from the old Jeeps to a 5 ton wrecker. If I really wanted a 4WD truck, I would try to find an old M37 Dodge built 3/4 ton, either build a bigger MOPAR flat head for it or shove a 318 Polyshere head in there, power steering and better brakes. Those things I think could climb a wall straight up if you could get traction.