85lebaront2

Same here, the 400 tab shows nothing unless I full screen it. On you comments on the 400, I fully agree, if Ford had offered it with say 8.5:1 compression and a moderate size 4 barrel (anything except a 4300D) it would have been a great engine. I had a neighbor who had a 1977 F150 with the 351M, did everything except say "oink" when you stood on it. 351 engines, original 351 was the Windsor block, and it was built in 2 barrel versions in most cars and 4 barrel in Mustangs, Cougars, Torinos and Montegos. In 1970, the 351C was introduced as a replacement for the 4 barrel Windsor plant engine, at which time that engine had a W appended. I had always heard the large bell housing 351 called a Modified as it was the same block as the 400 and was able to use the same large transmissions as the 385 series engines (429/460). It also allowed the same perches to be used. Specific example, 1971 full size Ford, base engine 300 6cyl. optional, 302, 351W all of which used a common flywheel housing. Move up to the 351M, 400 and 429, again same flywheel housing and same perches. In the full size Mercury line, no 6 cyl but 302, 351W or 351M, 400 and 429. this allowed almost as much interchangeability as brand C, and a whole lot more than Chrysler or the rest of GM. GM did come out with some "universal" case Hydra-matics, drilled for both the Chevy and BOP patterns (dowel pins are the same for both). The early 70s were not a good time for Ford engines, in order to meet the emission standards, the 351M/400 engines were jetted so lean they barely ran, and still got Ford in hot water over suspicious test methods. The super lean mixture does not necessarily help gas mileage, in fact it can hurt it if it is so lean it misfires or the vacuum is so weak the advance will not pull in or drops out with very small throttle additions.

Gary, FWIW, the 1990 HD F250 donor vehicle had forged I-beams and ball joints. I discovered that looking for some other pictures today. Engines/Drivelines looks good so far. Owners manuals may help on some of that as I believe Darth's notes certain packages, like a 6 cyl in the crew cab, but the base engine for the DRW was a 351 in 1986. Walker's exhaust catalog shows you as correct, single pipe until 2-85, after that the dual inlets run through 1987.

Here you go sir, this is the 1985-97 V8 gas engine radiator.

FWIW, I don't know on the HD F250s, but the F350s still had forged I-beams and king pins in 1986 and properly lubricated, Darth's are still good 32 years and 146,000 miles later

Once I change engines, I can send you my original dipstick and tube. I already have the late oil pan and push-in tube installed on the engine.

On the 1986 system, the 6 port valve does not have a "default" position, it stays where it was set until it receives power through the tank selector switch. I may even still have the switch from Darth since he is now MAF/SEFI and is using the 1990 pump system and 1996 gauges.

Gary, I have the Modine I pulled out of Darth. I kept it because in a pinch it can be used. I can get you some good pictures.

It could be several items. The "sock" on the pump may be bad. the hose from the pump to the hanger could be leaking. How old is the pump? OEM or replacement? I went through a royal PITA when I had to replace the front one on Darth. All except Pep Boys wanted to sell me an EFI pump, they had Borg-Warner pumps and it was the exact match (this was in 1994). Other question, is the 6 port motor driven valve going completely to the rear tank and powering the pump reliably? On the switch. Chrysler used a switch for the electric chokes on the 2.2L carbureted engines that has two 1/4" flat terminals, same as their A/C low pressure switch. One of those, and I think I have several spare molded plugs for the A/C switches.

Now you know why Darth's is still leaking. At least I know my mounts will come off (they have to to get the pan off). If I were to fix the leak, I would probably put my extra EFI pan and dipstick tube on.

The information I have shows the exhaust changed sometime in 1984 (per Walker's website). I know the system on Darth is still original from the muffler inlet area through the tailpipe.

Ok, quickly, driveline, change is not so much F100/150 vs F250/350 as it is a weight break, over or under 8500 GVWR for the "heavy duty" emission classification. Transmissions, yeah real fun. BTW, I did see the cast iron trans showed up in the 1980 information, so maybe sometime amend that portion to include the iron case. NSS, interestingly the 1973-79 models had it, but since they were dash mounted ignition switch and the 1980 models became column mounted, I imagine some bean counter decided it wasn't needed. FWIW, the iron case automatics had no place for a switch, and I believe had a strange reverse lamp system also. This wasn't a big issue as even the cars used a column or shifter mounted switch if needed. C4, C5, C6 and AOT (Ford's designation) had one or a place to mount it if needed. Radiator mount changed, A/C compressor changed, alternator, I didn't realize the 2G didn't appear until 1985. Fuel system, maybe an engine controls (some of which is weight related). This is more applicable to engines like the 300 and 302, and some 351s. The weight class and location sold influenced a lot of that. Hope this helps.

Gary, that sounds like a good idea, particularly as has already been found that there were differences even between assembly plants in a given year.

Darth went from a solid 10 with the Holley 4180 and C6 to 11-12.5 with a very low compression EFI engine and E4OD. Once I get the new 9.3:1 compression 466 in I will see what it gets.

Hmmm... maybe I don't really want to know? I have no idea how fast Darth will go, both my late wife and son have had him with the original 85 mph speedometer pegged, Interestingly I have gotten some of my best mileage cruising at 70 mph (1900 rpm) or 75 (2050 rpm). The E4OD really helps with that.

All the bigger dealers here look that way too, apparently it is to make them distinguishable.

Block the engine up from the perches, the mounts have to come off the back plates as their location prevents the pan from coming down. The exhaust manifolds are the best place I found to support the engine in order to drop the pan. The "backside bead" is the portion on the seal that goes into the groove, either the upper or lower and the shoehorn is for the block part as it is being "slid" into the sharp edged groove, the cap side is just pushed straight into it's groove, the reason I read in my manual for the offset of the ends of the seal was to keep the joint from being right at the cap split. The last one I did was on my 390 FE engine I built for my 1977 F150 and it was an updated design from the original rope seal (be glad your not doing one of those). The sealer referenced is for the cap to block joint, this is to prevent oil leaks there, I usually also put a tiny spot of RTV at the ends of the seal where they join, I don't know if it's really needed, it may not be. You may want to use copper coat there if you have it, The area to be sealed is the portion of the cap to block behind the bearing. FWIW, be glad it's not a Y-block, FE or MEL engine, their rear caps require side seals that have to be inserted and then a pin driven in to wedge them in place.

A C6 is actually a pretty simple transmission to build and they're pretty tough. Darth's original had around 125,000 miles when I switched over to EFI and the E4OD. I usually get a friend with a transmission shop to order mine, he will get it for me at his cost, I believe they are Dacco converters. I think I have rebuilt every Ford automatic except some of the newer ones like the 5R55 and 4R10. FMX, Cast iron Cruise-o-matic, 2 and 3 speed Ford-o-matic, C3, C4, C5, C6, AOD, E4OD, 4R75W, Lincoln Turbo-Drive (monster iron cruise-o-matic) I have done. Go to NAPA and buy an ATRA manual on it, get a shift kit for the valve body and clean everything thoroughly, especially the governor.

It looks suspiciously like a valve cover for a turbocharged Chrysler engine.

Gary, looking quickly at Alldata, it looks like it should pull 20" with no leaks. Does the low vacuum light illuminate? First thing suggested it check system integrity, it works brakes, cruise, HVAC and if a C6 the transmission vacuum modulator (I think). Some used a mechanical system from the injection pump.

Not bad looking for a Fiat.

It's your site, do whatever you feel is best. My site I had a lot of it as pdfs with a copyright statement, whether it was Chrysler, Ford or what ever. The copyright statement was appended on each upload so it couldn't be missed. I was doing it mainly for the turbo Chrysler products.

Great! Easy enough and since it is top and bottom works quite well.

The only actual larger factory throttle body is the one for the 7.5L engine. It will physically fit, but, 7.5L engines have the idle air control on the plenum, the throttle cable connections are different (could be a mjor issue with an AOD), there are no water passages to prevent icing, there are no canister purge ports and due to the larger size you will need a different air inlet system. FWIW, 5.0L and 5.8L use the same throttle body, if you want to change, look for a "self cleaning" one, they are teflon coated inside.

How can that be improved? I don't know, other than actually getting people to look at it. Other item, feedback carbs were used on the 4.9L from sometime in the early 80s (1981 was the earliest I could confirm) through 1986. There were different controls, through 1983 it was the MCU, 1984-1986 it was the EEC-IV. V8 engines were worse, 1981?-1983 it was the infamous EEC-III system, 1984-1986 it was the EEC-IV system. 351W HO (4 barrel) and 460 engines never had feedback carbs. The 351M came with a 7200 VV carb, making the whole thing unique to the early Bullnose models.

1987 is when the VIN plate was moved. A friend had a new windshield installed in his 1986 and they installed a 1987 up windshield obscuring the VIN plate. He made them change it. On Darth, I discovered that if I wanted a newer dash, I was going to have to either cut the dash or move the VIN plate. I was able to find some hex head pop rivets and the lip are was long enough to move it over the roughly 1" to the left. I did that, but when Safelite replaced my windshield after I cracked it, they managed to damn near destroy the plate with their piano wire when cutting out the old windshield.