85lebaront2

Pete. they haven't improved, our 2011 Flex, the door handle is a royal PITA to get out and back in, compounded by being almost entirely plastic. I found this gem out when I had to change the keyless entry hidden "keypad" it would wake up when you swiped it, but would not reliably take the code.

Ok, so that is a throttle body system, not a port or sequential system? Sounds interesting, if I hadn't already gone EEC-V MAF/SEFI on my 460. Do you know if it will integrate with a transmission control system?

Gary, the stamped bracket is what fits Darth, the 1990 Parts truck had what looked like cast ones that if I remember correctly included the spring seat.

If you can borrow or rent one that hooks under the spring and pushes down on the retainer, it will work quite well. Use a small magnet to retrieve the keepers. Take everything off and unload the broken spring, put the new one in the tool and compress it until it will go over the stem far enough to put the keepers in (use a dab of grease to help hold them). I usually pull the spring and retainer up against the keepers so the won't slip while I release the pressure.

At least you found it! I had a similar problem with my son's 1965 Corvair Corsa, at least that one was easy to change, just had to be underneath to do it.

Find TDC #1 on the balancer, rotor pointing back. rotate the crank 180° clockwise and you will be on #4 TDC (firing order 15426378).

Do both valves appear to be the same height? If nothing else, can you use the compression gauge hose with the valve core removed and put air in the cylinder so you can at least get an idea whether it is valves or rings.

The stock screw jack will surprise you, it has 3 sections if I remember correctly and will get it pretty high. Carry a 12X12 plate probably 1/4" thick steel if you are on Asphalt or soft ground so it will not (a) sink or (b) tilt and drop the truck. It isn't real fast, but mine still works after 32 years.

Inertia switch will kill the fuel pumps, that's what it is for, to shut off the fuel supply in an accident. The injectors are grouped 1458 and 2367 so #5 is on inj 1 (EEC pin 58) and #6 is on inj 2 (EEC pin 59). Circuit #361 (red) provides the power from the EEC power relay (next to the EEC) to the EEC and all the controlled components (solenoid valves, IAC and injectors) there is a connector, C160, in the engine feed section, the EVTM does not give it's location, but it is probably near the firewall grommet where the EFI harness comes through from the inside. Hope this helps.

Gary, Darth's engine is gray, and so was the 90 F250 engine. The new one is Ford blue, no more Gray Marine colored engines.

Yes, those early aluminum 4.6L DOHC engines have the Teksid block. They were made in Italy by Teksid Spa, whose other customers were Ferrari and Masarati, possibly Lamborgini. I have it's FWD cousin from a 1995 Continental, it's only 260 HP. If nothing else those RWD aluminum Teksid blocks are extremely sought after as they are stronger than the Ford built ones. Computer is probably an EEC-IV, and the transmission, if automatic is going to be the 4R70W or 4R75W, basically an electronic upgrade from the AOD.

That is funny, almost as good as the engineer I was working with trying to make some load vs deflection tests on a block of aluminum bronze. He says "why don't we stick the dial indicator on the block with a magnetic base?" I looked at him and with a straight face said, if you have a magnet that will do that, we are going to very quietly walk out of here and get rich.

My introduction was also an IBM 1620, it was owned by the Old Dominion College School of Engineering. This was in 1964 and we had to learn Fortran and write a simple program that involved multiple calculation steps. I wrote the engine displacement formula. Then we had to give it several sets of data to solve, retrieve the output (on punch cards) and read them to get the printout of the results. Not super impressive by today's standards, but beat the heck out of a slide rule.

I grew up when computers took up a room, you addressed them with punch cards and the language was Fortran. Internet, what internet? My first home PC was a Packard-Bell we paid $1100 for, before that my oldest son's father had sent him an Apple IIc and a Gorilla Banana printer. I upgraded that to an Okidata still a tractor feed serial comm system. When my younger son needed to be able to do some on-line research, I bought a Soundblaster card for the Packard-Bell as that was where the modem resided, AOHell at dial-up speeds, even got a second phone line just for the computer. We thought we were big time!

I actually are on a number of forums, haven't been on FTE much lately, and am also fairly active on Facebook, also in a number of automotive related forums. The forums I am in are two manufacturers, Ford and Chrysler. There are a number of Facebook groups I am in including two I am an administrator for, 429-460 Big Block Fords and Ford dually trucks.

To my knowledge the only way to tune the EEC-IV is with a piggyback card, such as a TwEECer or Moates unit. It wasn't until the EEC-V that you can re-flash the EEC. On TFI modules, never had real good luck with aftermarket ones. If you are concerned about heat, starting in either 89 or 90, Ford moved the TFI module to the inside of the left fender near where the EEC was moved to in 1987. It will require a later distributor and some wiring changes.

I would agree, but at this point, figured knowing what the pressure is would at least 100% eliminate that. Like I mentioned previously, fuel is definitely flowing, you can hear it, and if I depress the schrader valve, fuel comes out with the Key On. I just can't confirm if I have adequate pressure. You should be able to hear at least two pumps running, one in the tank(s) and one on the frame. If the frame pump runs but not the in-tank, you will get pressure but not adequate volume, in tank only not enough pressure or volume as it would have to pass the frame pump with it stationary. On your diagnostic connector on the right front (near the solenoid valves) if you ground the T/LG wire, this will turn on the fuel pump relay and run the pumps. From under the truck you should at a minimum be able to feel the vibration on the in-tank pump and maybe even hear it. The frame pump should be reasonably easy to hear particularly if it has been replaced (the original Bosch pump was pretty quiet). If they are all running, try the old "wiggle" test, shake the relay plug wiring and the frame pump wiring and the plug near the frame pump, you are dealing with 32+ year old wiring and not super well weatherproofed at that. Once again, I can not stress enough, check that ground connector, the pumps ground through the rear harness plug under the hood to G701 inside the cab near the EEC. The remainder of the system grounds at the battery through that double blade connector.

Yes, I said "other" in the requested message if "other" was selected.

Other was you sent me a message or email inviting me to join as one of the founding members.

My guess would be: S - Signal, E - EGR valve, M - Manifold, D - Distributor. The issue comes in what the valve was originally used on, so the letters may or may not be of any value.

Naturally, what else did you expect?

Piercing the wire will lead to moisture intrusion and eventually corrosion. If you slide a paperclip alongside the lead you wish to check at the EEC connector plug (easiest way on yours, pull the EEC out of it's mount so you can reach it better). The pins you want SPOUT 36, PIP 56, these are the ignition distributor to EEC and return. If you need more let me know.

No, checking between pins on the plug. I will have to see if I have an old analog meter, I might, but will have to dig. Just to confirm, Circuit 359 should be BK/W, not BR/W? That's what my diagram shows and the wire color in the truck is BK/W. If I put my meter on the pins for C351 and C359, I get 5.0v(with the digi meter) which is in spec per A2 on the pinpoint test. Next is A3 which is spark and I confirmed that this morning. That leads to A13 which is the Spout Signal verification. This is where it gets tricky because I don't have a breakout box. Can I pierce the wire for C324 that attaches to Pin 36 on the connector and verify voltage to ground that way? If I can do that, what about the timing switch portion at the bottom? Where are you located? I have an EEC-IV breakout box (was real handy when my Taurus started acting wonky). Chris Tubutis has my EEC monitor and recorder. Either way something could probably be arranged. My son drove his 1986 F150 5.0L for several months with the breakout box on the floor hump and a little pair of LEDs to show injector pulses plugged into it.

Voltage is checked to the Signal Return wire for the sensors. 1985.5-1986, check the EFI system ground near the battery, it is an open style with 2 1/4" wide flat pins and is attached to the negative batter post clamp with the bolt. If it has high resistance the whole system goes FUBAR on you. TPS wiring, 5.0V VREF circuit 351, O/W; Signal return SIG. RTN, circuit 359, BR/W; TPS signal, TPS, circuit 355 DG/LG. I have a voltage chart, Gary has it also for the testing. Sweep check should be done with a analog meter as digital doesn't update fast enough to accurately measure the response.

I have not put any time in on the hood, body work and hate doing it. I don't really see a way short of some how supporting the open area. You cant push it up too high or when you pull it out it is now too low. It would not be bad if your eye would not really see it like the roof and mine has it's own "rolling hills" but the hood is not the place that works. I have to dig the hood out that came on the truck and look it over but I think that's the way I will be going. On the rear / locker you had to be on your A game! In the dry because the rear was locked, when under normal power turning corners the tires would squeal. You had to watch for police for "improper start" tickets so in the glove box with the reg & insur papers I had the paper for the locker that said would make noise on corners. If you went real easy it would hardly make noise. If you were rolling (off the power) around corners the locker would make clicking noise that everyone could hear. Yep even people on the corner would turn and look it was that loud. Once you knew what the car would do in the rain it was fun but I would not use the car if I knew it was going to rain just to be safe. Dave ---- From the information on the Lock Right Locker, it looks like my Detroit Locker I had in my Shelby, it was for a 9" Ford with 31 spline axles (Carroll didn't take chances on things failing on the track). It used to scare the h*** out of the uninitiated but the weight distribution and the F70-14 tires along with the 106" wheelbase helped. When I autocrossed it I ran G60-15 tires recaped with Goodyear racing rubber. I can appreciate the squirreliness of the Germlin, AMC's V8s are a bit heavier than the small Windsor blocks, but my first car was a 1964 Falcon 2dr sedan with a 260 V8, factory A/C and 3 speed, 102" wheelbase and the engine sat way forward compared to a Mustang. For reference, the motor mount brackets on the Falcon were mounted in front of the lower control arm pivot, on the Mustangs it is the same piece swapped side for side so it sits behind the lower control arm pivot. On the Falcon I had almost no room between the factory flex fan and the radiator, on the Shelby, same radiator, 4" spacer between the 4 blade fan and water pump pulley.