85lebaront2

Try 10,000 lbs, that's what the door label says.

They tried it with me when I was moving my daughter. Said they had to inspect my vehicle to see if it was suitable. The kid that was going to inspect it probably wasn't as old as Darth, walked out said where is it, I pointed to Darth and said "right there, and it will tow anything you have including that car trailer beside the building". He agreed and that was the end of it. This is one of the reasons I bought a used tow dolly to use on FWD stuff. No screwing around with idiot pencil pushers or getting told the only one is 40 miles North in a different County.

Holley told me I couldn't put an electric choke on a double pumper back about 1970, bastards copied what I did. The also saw my homegrown Chrysler throttle linkage on one and came out with a kit duplicating it. I guess I can't really complain too much, as fast as Holley came out with a new performance part that would fit a small block Ford (260 in a Falcon) I got one to field test. When I bought the Shelby, I transferred what would work onto it, as far as I know it probably still has the chrome Holley mechanical pump on it.

That is nice! If I decide I want to replace my Fluke 75 (free) I might look into that.

All replacements now are R134a compatible. This was done a few years ago, same reason compressors are now shipped dry.

I did indeed get very lucky with the brackets, especially working out a trade the way I did. With the dryer, are you suggesting that it should always be replaced with a brand new one? I bought a very clean looking used one because I prefer to have original Ford parts where practical, but if these should not be re-used then I will order a new one. You can reuse the dryer, but it will not be compatible with R134a, only R12. It is almost impossible to completely dry one out once it has been open to the air. It will take a minimum of an hour at a pretty good vacuum and if you have a heat gun, warm it while holding the vacuum.

I'll bet it gets amazing gas mileage with no vacuum advance.

Gary, I personally other than maybe being an automatic, think the ecoboost will tow that much better than the 460. The gas mileage will be much better though. Alternator, yes the 1G is what 60 amps, it will take a while. Winch on the trailer, probably needs to be done, battery charge, get some long welding cables so you can hook the winch battery to Blue's battery for fast charging. Both are 4WD correct? Advantage I can see using Big Blue, that 1960 Chevy pickup is probably fairly heavy, but you hauled Big Blue from Florida, so it should be doable with Blue.

Amen to that. Towing with Darth in hot weather with the A/C on. the fan would sound like one of NASA Langley's wind tunnels leaving a stop light on US 301 passing East of DC, once the air coming through the radiator cooled down a bit, it would just taper off.

That is where we got the argent for the 57 T-bird, got it from Center Ford in Newport News VA, now gone.

And I got back this response: What are your thoughts? If I was going from scratch to build one, I would probably go ahead and order it. The cam choice is obviously acceptable for a speed density system, and he says it is acceptable for CA use so I would think that package would be great. Scott is the 385 series guru, just like Tim Meyer is the 335 guru. They both compete in Engine Masters and love messing with the brand C bunch. My friend in Newport News, along with his son had their hind parts handed to them a few years ago when both of their BBCs grenaded on the test stand. The change in test procedure from the competitor running the test at his best rpm ranges to a series of pulls that simulate real world usage favored engines with more flexibility and the 460 is extremely tolerant as far as spark knock and detonation due to the head design.

We used to be able to buy it, when my business partner did his 57 T-bird, the air filter was argent.

That was why I said last night I didn't need to watch the video, it was obvious what was wrong (unless you are used to engines with the timing set buried, like MOPAR big blocks or Ford 335s).

Mine is an older unit, an LC-1 and LM-1 pair. The LM-1 communicates with BE for datalogging. I guess for a carbureted setup, the analog style display is better for on the fly reading as long as it can also store data, preferably road speed and engine rpm.

Yes, and the other problem, 1985.5-1986 5.0L system is all by itself and has a number of unique to those years items. (a) two solenoid valves, vacuum and vent for the EGR, (b) a TPS setting that is extremely sensitive to voltage, © no vehicle speed input to the EEC, (d) non-heated O2 sensor in the rear of the right exhaust manifold, (e) system ground is a single two pin plug next to the battery where it corrodes. EEC itself is wired differently due to some of the differences between it and later models. Some of the items carried over into 1987-89, primarily the fuel system, in-tank low pressure and frame mounted high pressure pump with a reservoir that also provides tank switching for dual tanks.

Recommendation is at least 30 min at a high vacuum, then isolate and see if it holds. I have an ex Laboratory Duo-Seal beast that will pull a house central air system down in roughly 20 min, and will hold a damn good vacuum on a vehicle system with a small leak (learned that the hard way on my Chrysler). Good luck with it, unfortunately the excellent source I used to have for parts changed jobs or I would get him to recommend the correct orifice tube for best cooling.

Mine is an Inovate unit, one of the older versions but (a) reads accurately (b) has logging capabilities and © integrates well into the tuning program I use, Binary Editor.

Higher flowing injectors are easy, 302-351 use 19#/hr injectors, stock 460 ones are 24#/hr. If you change injectors, the computer has to be programmed for the larger injectors otherwise it will be pig rich starting and running in open loop (under high throttle conditions).

It looks to me like the thrust face of the cam gear is on the front, not the back where it belongs. That would put the section of the gear that should be through the thrust plate into the back of the eccentric. If his cam has a snout into the thrust plate, then he needs a cam gear with a flat rear face, no snout on it. Ran into that years ago on my 260 when I put a Lunatti hydraulic cam in it.

I have already used it when I flushed the cooler lines.

Picture albums.

I don't need to watch the video, Gary, unless M engines are way different from other Fords, what strikes you as looking strange about the cam gear?

I will look tomorrow and give you the information. To use it on duals, run an H pipe between the two sides (it also helps the flow) and put the sensor there. Strange, but maybe it is because I am controlling my mixture with two sensors one for each bank and have the wideband in the H right before where the catalytic converter would go.

Unfortunately your engine has the absolute worst heads Ford ever used on a 302, or any Windsor engine. If you can find a set of 5.0L Explorer heads in a junkyard, there are two types, the first ones had GT40 heads, later have GT40P heads. The GT40P ones have a P stamped on the ends. They will work with your intake quite well.

Brandon, you should be able to buy CRES allthread and make some, also look at Fastenal and even Gary's favorite, Amazon.