85lebaront2

The oil pump drive normally has a keeper at the top so it doesn't come out with the distributor. Believe me, it can be a PITA to get back in if it does come out.

Don't use your damn phone or proof read before you send. On SS (technically CRES) you need to look at the strength, there are various grades of CRES. 304 CRES, comes as condition A or condition B, condition B is much stronger than condition A. Condition A is roughly like grade 2, condition B is somewhere between grade 5 and grade 8. CRES will also gall horribly, particularly condition A, you need a good anti-seize on them. 304, 304L (leaded) are primarily Chrome and Nickel, 316 and 316L also contain Molybdenum. and if I remember correctly are for higher temperature. I don't have access to all the specs right now like I did when I was still at NNS. I believe you can look up the ASTM specs on-line, or maybe in a library.

I guess I see where I rate.

I have a real nice one somebody sent me, works for 335 and 385 series engines.

Only the stripped chassis for an RV, the captions the way the manual comes out are way above the pictures, the caption for the first picture was on the bottom of what would the cover page for the section Since they were small enough once I scanned them, I just posted them as they came out. The biggest thing, with the 1988-89 E-Series it should list that brace on the CD, now you just have to find one, maybe a new unicorn? I will try to check next time I get to Pete's.

I have the exact same valve grinder and the seat refacing tools that go with it. I have a Coats 10-10 tire machine and a wheel balancer. I love that old welder!

Steve, if it doesn't go into the crossover (passage underneath it) then it will not be a problem. If it does, then they sent you the wrong heads on that engine. Is there a casting number on the heads?

Some pictures for your edification. These are from the 1993-94 truck service manuals on DVD (I just have the iso files). Power steering pump installation, 7.5L MFI engine

Yes, but my unicorn runs.

Very understandable, 1985.5-1986 5.0L inlet system is unique to those models, then 1987-93 are basically identical and the SD models through 95 are still the same, 1994-96 are partially the same, but use an MAF to a wye then dual hoses to the TB. 5.8L engines share the intake style with the 5.0L. 460s are by themselves, and a real unicorn is a factory MAF 460.

On the side of the carburetor, there is a lever inboard of the main throttle lever. There is a rod attached to this lever. The lever should be free to move, meaning you can push it to the rear and it should go back moving the rod back and down, then come forward when released. There is an adjusting screw on the upper part of this lever that should be touching the "tang" on the throttle lever, this is your adjustment point. Turning the screw in (head clockwise viewed from the back) will make the shifts later and firmer, turning it out earlier and softer. If the carburetor has been changed from the original Motorcraft and the replacement was not for an AOD transmission, then Lokar makes a cable system to replace the rod, anyone who has done a 2 barrel to 4 barrel swap on these needs this to get the shift quality correct. In case you are wondering, I am the one who wrote the automatic transmission information.

Thanks, I will send him to your site. He actually has a 1997 crew cab. Do I need to get under Darth and measure them?

I don't see why you would need to. If you do cut it, I would not take it completely out, just cut one end and insulate it. I have diodes in my EEC-V for my transmission solenoids and the ones in the transmission (it is a 1990 E4OD) and have had no issues of any kind.

Steve, the diode is the same concept as many EEC controlled functions, it is what is called a "snubber" and is connected essentially in reverse, so the reverse voltage spike caused by opening the circuit to the coil is dumped to either ground or back into the 12V supply. In the case of the IAC, it is back into the red #361 circuit (at least on the 1986) and the remaining load absorbs it. I do not think the lack of an internal diode will hurt, or having one as long as the polarity on the IAC connector didn't change. I have a similar situation on my E4OD where the snubber diodes were in the circuit board on the early ones and moved to the EEC on later models, early boards can be used with later EECs, but later boards can not be used with early EECs. I think you will be ok with it.

Gary, on your parts lists, do you have the cab mounts? I had a question this morning, it was for a newer truck, but the question as to differences in the rear mounts, regular, extended or crew would at least have let me tell him whether the crew and extended were the same or different.

I believe they do make shorty headers for the EFI heads. The EGR tube itself is available from Dorman, I have a nice new one here for the new engine. As to requirements, the further North you go generally the stricter it gets, here I just have a visual, Northern VA has a sniff test.

Considering (a) the dual smoke grinders on the 1985-87 460s and (b) the penchant for the Holley carb to run rich or leak internally, you have a recipe for extreme heat from afterburning.

Well then, how about "mud valves" or "muffler bearings" or "gniflin pins"?

We used to call them smoke grinders when they first came out.

That will make a phenomenal resource on your site. Unfortunately 1982 may be as far back as I can go and it isn't that complete.

Check your inbox sir.

I can do that, I don't know how far back the information goes though.

Yes, because the originals are Ford, and if I simply remove the AllData from the pictures they are just plain vacuum diagrams. It puts them out either printed or pdf format.

Gary, as I mentioned earlier, I have most if not all of the vacuum diagrams available to me in MY AllData.

I am surprised that I haven't been given grief over mine. It is a 1986 F350 with the 460, originally carbureted, now MAF/SEFI and changed from a C6 to an E4OD. I still have an underhood sticker with the vacuum diagram for the carbureted engine, no air pump installed because it only went to the catalytic converter and since the bottom portion of the emission label says "NON CATALYST" in 1/4" high letters, I have no need for or place to use an air pump. If by any chance you can read the calibration code, I do have all the diagrams in my AllData and can print and scan it for you. If not, maybe based on equipment and where it originated Gary and I between us can come up with what you need. Unless you are in an area with actual testing, a visual inspection is all I get here, they are not even allowed to "thump" a converter to see if it's been gutted.