85lebaront2

The EGR passage goes to the plug, then inside the plenum in the center of the back wall.

Gary, if the threads in that plenum are good, I will trade you one with a broken off bolt in the EGR pad. Then I will have a spare good one. My thought, remove the plug on the back and make a new one that will go in far enough to be flush with the inner passage. Or you can use it as an extra vacuum port (not that you will really need it).

Both of which should have the same adapter in the block.

The G30 I worked was the same way. My 1995 Lincoln Continental has a remote reservoir that the fluid return goes to. The Ford CIII pump is on the side of the block on the right front of the car and the PS lines literally circle the powertrain. It is a plastic tank and FWIW (Gary Lewis) there is a factory installed filter in the return line. My Chrysler T&C minivans (2003 & 2005) had the reservoir on top of the engine with a fine mesh strainer molded into it. When it got dirty the pump whined horribly. On these the return goes to the reservoir and the pump then draws from it. The 3.3 and 3.8L pumps are aluminum, but the 2.4L is cast iron and looks like a Saginaw with the small can and remote reservoir.

These may help a bit for V-belts, this is a Saginaw pump on a 1987 Chrysler LeBaron sedan 2.2L turbo engine. I have the pump here but will need to go dig it out if you need measurements.

Correct, the issue I have is finding an M6X1.0 mandrel for it since the mirror mounting bolts are that thread on mine.

Some of them have an internal hex that a large Allen wrench will go into.

One for a non oil cooler 460 will go right on after you replace the block insert.

Gary, the newer trucks, 1992-96/7 used the oil pressure "gauge" as simply an oil pressure indicator. On these you can do the same, jumper the resistor and use an older sender. You still end up with an arbitrary set of values unless you run some kind of aftermarket gauge. I, for one have an inherent distrust of digital gauges brought about by personal experience with Chrysler's infamous digital dash from the 80s. My oil pressure gauge would drop lower and lower the longer I drove. I hooked up a nice analog mechanical gauge and it never showed any drop. I measured the voltage on the sender wire, same thing it would show the same reading at a given rpm even after an hours drive. This told me it was somewhere in the integration circuit that considering Chrysler electronics is in Huntsville AL, was probably something NASA didn't want.

Unless in keeping with today's world. it's transgender.

Gary, do not use Teflon tape, exhaust manifolds get red hot under load conditions, the tape will melt.

Transmission looks too pretty to even drive it once it's together.

Hopefully, they both match.

Yes, if not, I have a pair, that at least one I think has good exhaust port bolt holes.

F3s are the updated heads, slightly larger valves.

Which one couldn't you find?

One item, Hydroboost on cars, I have owned 3, a 1978 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, a 1980 Pontiac Bonneville Brougham, and a 1981 Buick LeSabre. All had the 5.7L Diesel and GM decided the Hydroboost was a better solution than a vacuum pump. They did have vacuum pumps for cruise control and HVAC operation. On Saginaw pumps, the pressure is actually determined by the flow control valve which incorporates the relief valve also. From what I remember on the Oldsmobile, the basic pump was the same, just had two return fittings and a different flow control valve.

You know, someone suggest that on FTE, and was told "I don't want to drill holes in the expensive aluminum heads". What changed your mind?

Thank you for the congratulations, I was rather surprised by that outcome, as Hockey is, from what a friend told me, almost a religion in Canada. Steve, the reason for the vacuum controlled pressure regulator is to ensure that the pressure differential is constant. If there is 0 manifold vacuum then the pressure as tested is the required 35-45 psi and running is reduced by the manifold vacuum. If at 14.7 psi manifold pressure (no vacuum) the pressure is 42 psi, then at 15" manifold vacuum = 7.4 psi therefore fuel pressure should be 34.7 psi. If you could achieve a perfect vacuum you would have 27.3 psi which is the differential pressure for the injectors. The computer has this value (essentially) in it's programming. A fixed pressure regulator will play havoc with your AFR values. Now, a little digression, as you can see in my signature I have another strange vehicle, the 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible with the 2.2L intercooled turbocharged engine. On those systems the basic fuel pressure is 55 psi static, running, no boost, is around 45 psi, under boost it climbs to around 70 psi. This again is to maintain the required pressure differential, which for these engines is 40.3 psi.

Cut it on the red line, split it into the edge of the threads and collapse it with a hammer and cold chisel. Once it collapses in, it will just about fall out.

Damn, that guy must get around, probably says he specializes in 460s:nabble_smiley_grin:

FWIW, I would suspect any floor shift car up until the late 80s will have that part, Pinto, Bobcat, Mustang, MustangII, etc.

The threaded neck broke off right where it goes into the elbow. Getting the flare nut lose can be mission impossible. Don't even try it in situ, you can't get a big enough wrench in to turn it due to the odd angle it sits at. If you are doing away with the EGR, I would cut it off flush, then use a hacksaw blade to split it. That's what I did on my "new" manifolds.

I wonder how they got it to hold water, if you look at the timing cover there is a hole through into the inside of the block.

I can check tomorrow, but I think they are 1/2" NPT. Good luck on getting it off, I have broken two of those, at the time $65 fittings. The tube is available aftermarket from Dorman.