ArdWrknTrk

OCR is very time consuming and resource intensive, when it comes to something like that....

They ALSO 'taught' them on Captcha.... You think I don't understand how this works?

It's light years ahead of what we have now.

But you never will (get better distance per Wh) Maybe longer range than available with the stock battery, but even though the E-series generators sip fuel they're still not getting better than 35% efficiency. And then you're converting torque to electricity and back to torque with the attendant losses....

Gary beat me to the punch. I'm weird that way. I make connections and see patterns in things that you wouldn't expect.

As I've pointed out multiple times, up thread, this is just a chatbot and much more (like memories and critical thinking) need to be incorporated before it can be anything more than a LLM. That said, I do believe we see it in things like Predator drone target aqusition and other military and spook applications.

They (Honda) could have solved that with the right coatings on dissimilar metals. But I assume it's an issue with the heat of the shrink fit. Honda were pretty innovative with metallurgy. Like the convolute fiber reinforced cylinder sleeves in their early 80's CVCC engines.

If Gary didn't have over half the front page cluttered up with pinned topics you wouldn't have this problem... Maybe increase your page view to 50 topics? 🧐

https://arstechnica.com/cars/2024/02/ford-evs-gain-access-to-tesla-superchargers-starting-today/

Welcome Jasja! It's great to have another Aussie here. Gary's going to ask if you would like to be on our members map. (Just a postal code, we don't want to doxx anyone) Tell me about the 4.1!?!? We know that you got the Cleveland and the Barra down under, but pickups like that are an enigma to us here in the States.

I can't object, if I can't see it..... 🙄 😄 The filter adapter is D7AZ6890A They're like $3.95 from the mother ship. This thread really should be in 'Projects'. ETA: if you search that # you also come up with https://regismanufacturing.com/ford-302-351-1968-96-oil-filter-adapter-fa-302/

You need to check the ohms between the orange/black (common) terminal and the other 3 blades.

Look at the picture. Orange/black is high and power in. Lt Blue/orange is medium Red/orange is low. Blk is ground, as is the case throughout the truck's harness.

Get over it Nabble can't handle a picture from a wristwatch because the software is made for a 1980's potato. These are probably artificially imposed limits so the pathetic server doesn't melt down.

Deren (GSM Blue) has one And Jonathan, And......

Correct. Note that left and right are the same control, just that it is stacked, with two rows of contacts..... So (for now) you only need to power the right hand one in the illustration. If you look at the blower resistor you'll note a thermal fuse. Be certain you have continuity through the resistor block before you pull your hair out. AC and heat only trucks (like mine) have different configurations If you can't match the colours shown in the diagram, I'm going to suggest you just ohm out the pins to determine which of the three is what speed.

I posted both of them so you could see what you're up against. I'm going to say, look at the AC model and notice "off" position , while all blower speeds are on the right. If you have AC, you probably want to use the left switch to control the relay and the right to deal with speeds. I believe the AC switch is piggybacked. Be careful which row of contacts you make live. I hate when people hack stuff before they understand how it works....

Simplest answer is often the best answer!

Cory, "Rembrandt" from Nova Scotia has pictures and part numbers in his posts.

It may sound stupid, but check the oil pressure sender at the back of the intake manifold. I got caught out by this once.

Welcome! Glad the DS-II swap is working well for you. I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that you either block off your old EGR spacer, or source one from a Canadian truck that didn't come w/ EGR. Much easier than screwing around with modified brackets, and everything fits as it should.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Next-issue-Heater-air-flow-tp145358.html

A chain is only as strong as the weakest link. If you don't want voltage drop and hot wires you should look at Gary's thread. 💡

Yeah, metallurgy and the tools to drive them have come a LONG way. I like Ledgerlok and GRK

Does your wiring 'kit' still incorporate the Ford style fender mounted starter relay? If so, I'd use the hot (battery) post* of the relay for a bus, and go with 10Ga primary wire to 30 of the relay and 87 to the blower. Then I would make sure the ground side , from the resistor block to the controls was solid, and bring the ground side of the control to the back side of the firewall ground stud, going to the engine (just below the wiper motor) Be sure to get a continuous duty rated relay.