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Does he still have them ground by Delta?

You have to look at that price from the perspective of, almost NO maintenance, and fuel costs in the pennies per mile. No fuel system, no ignition, no exhaust, 'radiator' and coolant in the traditional sense, no oil changes or filters (x cabin air...) Plus onsite power, and vehicle to home backup power. A lot of homes in Texas could have stayed running (essential circuits) for days....

I'm already conditioned not to use it... Though I did look for the body builders spec page when I fished out your marked up drawing for the fender mount clips yesterday. So the grid at least appears. Discord is a known quantity, and almost always runs in private mode. You could have a Admin room, segregated from that, as well.

https://arstechnica.com/cars/2024/02/ford-stopped-shipping-f-150-lightning-electric-trucks-in-february/

I have Chrome as baked in to Android (on a phone) not Chrome as an OS, like a Chromebook. Have you considered a Discord server, for back page discussions?

Great parts site, Thanks Jim. Hope this helps. I'm sure you'll get other opinions. Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things. Jerry's old school 'git er done' type of body man. Lots of people criticize, but you can see the results. None of them are putting out videos showing their work. 🧐

Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters! Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there..... The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow.... $4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html

Use a wire wheel in a drill to remove the rust over the door? No sanding? Found this: SEM's Rust-Moet Got these, Lakeside Autobody channel videos. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Hole is in the lower panel near the rear bumper. Thanks for your help Jim. Ooop! Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱 I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back. It wasn't expensive. Hang on, BRB .. ........

Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters. If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill. Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Mort* for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. It will be cheaper than the fiberglass cloth and resin you need. Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's Lakeside Autobody channel. I can go find the specific video, if you can't ..... https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1986-Ford-Truck-Cab-Corner-LH/productinfo/34022/

I like Three Bond for joints that are rigid. It will hold engine cases together, full of oil or 2-cycle fuel

Possibly.?!.?! I tend to use anerobics, except where indicated like my diff cover or the china walls. I like RTV, it's great all around, but a lot of times id rather something more specific.

Well, there's trace amounts of everything, right down to hydrogen, so definitely will migrate through seals far more easily than water. But all this is a fools errand because the engine hasn't been heat cycled, and everything is going to move, and need retorquing. 💡 When it comes down to it, the only thing that matters is how it performs in service. 🧐

Why? 🤔 We are legion! Geeks crunch numbers and ideas. We do R&D, prototype work, chip architecture, materials science, chemistry, fix vehicles and sell parts, stock shelves and pump gas. The backbone of his channel is in semi. His father was a circuit designer in silicon valley, in the early days.... Yes, he gets way off track, sometimes. But somehow I always find it interesting!

"Air" is mostly molecules of nitrogen, with about 20% oxygen, 2% argon and the rest mixed gases like CO²... 💡

Jon is a bit all over the place.... It plays fine with the second leg of the tripod: Autism, ADHD, Anxiety... I get what he's talking about. But I enjoy that he takes me into rabbit holes I didn't know existed.

Here's a link to Jon's latest video...... You're in the field. How do you think of it as a primer for the uneducated masses? Note, that he does things like say dram instead of D-ram just to raise people's ire. "Any attention is better than NO attention" Being what I am, I get this right away and chuckle.... 🙃

The timing chain photos I see online are all the same. The '86 had a tube that came out of the water pump and had a tab that bolted to the front of the ps head. The heater hose came from there. (go look at the diagrams) Somehow the PO made it work. But I've used an L&L bracket to get rid of the A.I.R. pumps. I cannot get a '70's 429 bracket to fit a 1980's 4x4 truck but it might work with your Bronco.

It's been NLA for 10 years or more...

Glypthal is TWTG here....😉

That's a very nice install! I'm trying to understand what's different between the 9-1122 that I used to use (which fit my pump eccentric fine) and the set you've used. I could see the C-3207 not having provision, given that it's a chain for EFI trucks, but the top gears look the same to me. Maybe the photos I find online are "representative" and not real? This circles back to Gary's AI discussion, where nothing is to be believed.... I see you've found a hose barb for your water pump. Does this mean you can use an automotive alternator bracket and adjuster in the 70's Bronco frame?

There's nothing that will make me walk right out without looking back than some kind of infantile reality show drama. In that moment, I don't care, or even want to know. I'm done, see ya!

I did a head pipe flange-back with a giant school bus muffler and a $35 closeout Magnaflow 3" stainless, universal, pickup tailpipe. It's been pretty good for a dozen years.

Nice! I recall a very pretty kinda Aqua blue metallic....