ArdWrknTrk

But the ports match between E7 & F3 heads.

Gary, I've made no comment towards Ray, and have absolutely nothing against him. He's an industrial designer who posted someone elses retrofit driveline that is a mashup fever dream with precisely zero upsides and 101 points of failure. Nothing was directed at him, nor would it ever be. That's not the way I roll. But if he is asking about it as a purchase or investment idea, I'm going to take one glance and nope right out of that stupidity. It makes as much sense as an electric ice cube. ETA: Gary, you've worked for the railroad. You understand how crazy efficient those Fairbanks-Morse and GE diesel/electric locos are. But they don't have any batteries, or a throttle pedal, because that would make them a financial disaster for the railroads. Heck, the railroads would get rid of diesel entirely if they could afford the copper for caternary across the nation. No fuel depot, fuel system, no sliding parts, no need for an oiler, or oil changes Their locomotives would need ballast to hold them down, for traction. Here we have what is (in our members opinions) a perfectly good diesel powered truck. And then to take that same antiquated, inefficient indirect injection engine and use it to drive a generator, to charge a battery, to turn an electric motor🤯 But let's look at the laws of thermodynamics.... 🧐 35ish % to change diesel into motion, heat and noise. 70ish % to for a generator to turn power into electrons 95ish % to charge and discharge a battery 95ish % to take electrons and put them into motion. 85ish % for driveline losses in a 4x4 pickup. So, if starting out at 35% (which is about the best you could expect from one of our trucks) and the 15% drive line loss stays the same regardless. For a perfectly serviceable pickup.... Then you add weight, complexity and reduced carrying capacity. You're not removing anything that drove the truck, except replacing the gear box with an electric motor, behind a generator.🤷‍♂️ You're stacking another 40% losses in the middle, as you see.... THEN you have to manage a charging system -AND- the often reviled batteries, (which actually seem to be proving out for everyone, but that exceptional emergency traveling trombone repair man.) What's the upside? Bill calls out Ford for 'crackhead' engineering, But we have no idea of their directives, nor the CBA metrics... This is BLATANT hucksterisim to a legion of synchophants. Someone figured out a way to separate another person from their money. It's been happening since the scriptures, well before biblical times. "Nothing new to see here, keep moving along"...

You Sir are one sad man. Negative much? Passive aggresion is a sign of insecurity. You ARE the reason I mostly stay off Gary's website. You are constantly judging and condemning others. Everytime I get on here you make some snarky remark about what I or someone else are doing. I bet I could fine 100 things in your life that make no sense, and claim you have no brain cells either. But I don't, because I'm not a low self esteem miserable old man. Good buy. I don't even give a !@#$ anymore. Negative? There is NOTHING about this that makes ANY sense unless you are Rube Goldberg* and like to* waste both time and money. Good luck Ray!

.Gearboxes certainly seem more intuitive and I've been inside of them since the '70's when I would split the cases of my dirt bikes. I remember when they would show you geartrains on the ASVAB and other tests. This always seemed simple to me. Non-electronic automatics seem complex, and valve bodies appear like Theseus' labyrinth, but there are way less clearances and sliding fits to puzzle out. I'm not nearly as familiar with them because I've never owned an automatic vehicle, myself. I can read the channels like a map, or schematic, but you don't really need to know any of that. You just need to put everything back exactly as it should be. So I would say automatics are probably easier to rebuild, if you are careful. You don't have to juggle many shafts with stacks of sliding fits. Or have as many snap rings to get in the correct orientation. For either one to be successful you need confidence and clean environment like a surgeon in a battlefield operating room, IMHO Tucker did great welding up those races to get them to shrink out of the bottom of the case. He is an amazing welder for a high school kid.

Do you have a picture? Edit: the only Hallibrand style wheels I know are these knock-off ones on my buddies Cobra kit car.

Wait! E7 fuelie heads on that truck? I don't have anything like that, and the 450 engine is gone! How do they have a carb on it? E7 lower plenum with a Price Motorsports adapter, or carb intake with plates at each head? What are they using for exhaust? The E7 ports are moved so far you can't really use a carb intake or exhaust with them.

I THINK I have a freshly rebuilt CNG D3VE-A2A without provision for thermactor at the barn in Wilton. It would have flash rust but otherwise be freshly rebuilt with the heat tag on the end. I bought a few heads from eBay that were said to be from a defunct machine shop in Texas that refurbed pumps for the oil industry, so corners were not cut... (I KNOW I had it, I just don't know if it's been tossed out) I'm not sure if or when you need it, but I really should go by there and get a load of stuff. Having my axle blown up is putting a damper on a lot of things... 😕

I have heard of the dressing but never used it. When I was part of a street stock pit crew racing at Waterford Speedway I dont think they even used it. If they did it was kept from me and the rest of the crew and we had 2 cars so I would think someone would have slipped at some point LOL Is the Gunk a powder? You wet the floor, spread the powder and scrub it in and rinse it off? If so I have used that before, school or buddies shop? Dave ---- We used to call it Tang because of it's colour and texture before it dissolved. Also in the handy baby powder bottle size for $7. 😉 https://www.myautovaluestore.com/gunk/swab-powdered-concrete-cleaner-gun-sw2

335's have a piston on the back of the thermostat that covers a water passage and causes coolant to flow the whole length of the heads, instead of just circulating at the front. Gary has a thread about his Dad's truck using the White-Rodgers design. (Maybe he used a Stay-Kool?)

No matter what, the wax pellet has to go on the engine side or the thermostat will never open!

I'd hardly say C&C is a "home shop"! But it's good to see Clint teaching his kids to build and maintain their own vehicles. There's a whole series on that crew cab dually, where they build the Cummins and another where they do the reverse shackle swap and retrofit the four-wheel drive. You might want to check out their playlist

Certainly makes it easier to fill. I don't think a tiny hole compromises the thermostat effectiveness either.

If I can't find a thermostat with a jiggler I drill a 3/32 hole in the flange. And I will ONLY use a Stant, Motorcraft or Gates thermostat. I hope your testing goes well!

Make SURE you have the best intake bypass hose you can for that 1 1/4 between the intake and water pump. They get neglected and are difficult to replace when you have to fold it in half with a pair of needlenose pliers.

I guess I never think of buying from summit. I did buy my clutch and flywheel there because they said it "ships today" But they lied. And had it drop shipped two days later. I suppose you still need to cap the radiator inlet to the water pump if you're going to pressurize the system. If you're concerned about seals, why don't you do it with the thermostat in place and not touch anything when you do to drop the engine in?

So, you're pressurizing the engine from the water pump? What brand of radiator cap are you going to use?

Who do you buy from that still has minimum shipping in 2024? I mean, anything with "free shipping" already has that cost baked in. Companies aren't losing money or eating an expense when they offer "free shipping" they're just screwing you deeper if you don't hit their threshold. 🤷‍♂️

Haha, I honestly didn't see all the mid-life crisis jokes coming...I guess I should have known better, eh? I just turned 52 last weekend, am I still "mid-life"?...I dunno... I feel younger than ever;). The Mustang is a bit of a departure for me, but not really. I wanted a Foxbody Mustang for a long long time...since they were still "new". Now they're going for crazy money. Up here, it's $20k for a decent one, and $30k for a super clean one. I started looking at the 1994-2004 Mustangs, really leaning towards and early SN-95 car with the last of the 5.0 V8's...1994-1995. They're getting really hard to find too...decent ones that aren't all modded (and tortured) to death. That got me into the 1999-2004 cars, and I found this really clean 2002. The 1999-2004 "New Edge" cars are still reasonably priced...for how long I don't know. Anyway, I'm now learning about overhead cammed V8's lol. Anyway...it's a "coffee car" lol. It's a cruiser for local cars and coffee nights. I still want another truck...but what I don't know. I'd love to have a 2nd gen Lightning, but they're getting outrageously priced now too, so that's likely out unless I build a clone. Anyway, time will tell. The Mustang will hold me over for the 2024 season until I can figure out what else I might want, if anything. I almost bought another motorcycle, but I talked myself out of that pretty quickly lol. I'm a decade ahead of you Sunday. Must be something about springtime! 😉

12pt to me means they'll just rust into round nubs sooner, but maybe you don't have these issues. I'm really surprised you can get a complete bolt kit, from pan to intake, timing housing, thermostat, water pump, exhaust and carb flange for anywhere close to $35, but hey!

Oh I'm still here Jim, still following along. I can only ever help with very specific topics lol. Anything 4x4 or 8-lug, or big block, etc...and I'm out. Half ton Flaresides...and I'm in the game! I very recently sold my 1994 F150 Flareside and bought a 2002 Mustang GT, so I'm 100% "truckless" for the first time in many years. I can still help with Bullnose topics...sometimes;). I'd commented on your mid-life crisis! I'm sure it's miles ahead of my carbureted '85.

Nothing on the outside of the engine deserves ARP, except possibly the flywheel bolts, and for them I buy factory with the loctite already on them. I bought a complete stainless kit from The Bolt Locker on eBay for around $45. I had to get longer exhaust manifold bolts because their 429/460 kit is meant for headers. I did get stainless button heads when I installed my cast valve covers.

I don't necessarily think that everything needs to be optimized for mobile, but if fully 50% of us will never interact with the forum & site on an actual computer, then that's 50% of us that this aspect is useless to. I'm not complaining. I've already suggested that a trained AI could automate the process. Beyond that, I'm no coder in Python, or even C++...

I'm not sure what the point is, even before the ridiculous inefficiencies, converting diesel to electricity, and electricity back into motion. THEN, you have to include that you have both an engine AND an electrical system to maintain. With a diesel-electric loco you're doing it because you can optimize the diesel to run at one speed and you need the insane torque of electric motors to shift loaded freight trains. This epitomizes the WORST of BOTH!

Yeah, the PDFs never load on my phone. I have to suspect, that like Gary's photos, there's just too much there for them to be of any use to me. I'm not really sure why we are even pursuing this at this point. I told Gary what I was dealing with -years ago- ... and I'm not going to bother with it today. (or tomorrow)