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Alright, so those are stamped rockers, nothing bulky like aluminum roller rockers, but the valve covers look nice and you got a good deal! 👍 I have some low profile cast aluminum ribbed OMC rocker covers I got for about the same cost from eBay. I painted them VHT crinkle black and belt sanded the ribs. I like that they seal great and the filler tower doesn't flex the the tin. Honestly, I think you've made a good choice!

Are you saying that new cars aren't made with clutch safeties now? Or that old cars originally made without them haven't had them added? I'm pretty sure that all new cars with manual transmissions have had clutch safeties since sometime in the '80s. Yes, they can be bypassed, but unless you actually want inspections that will result in most older vehicles getting scrapped there's not much that can be done about that. And I'm very glad that owners of old vehicles aren't required to add all newer safety equipment. None of us would have any of these trucks if we had to add air bags, modern crush zones and all of the electronic nannies. He's saying that regulations in Tamil Nadu were very different when he was growing up

Thanks for the reminder Jim. There's been a thread going on over at FTE and I recall Redline MTL was posted by one member. Of course, everyone has the 'magic sauce' for your application... Is there anything that's 80 weight and made for transmissions (like the old SROD) anymore? Or, are there only modern lubricants that will work in old(er) gearboxes? I have no issue with using modern lubricants but would prefer something that won't attack soft metals (like syncros) and not breakdown. The SROD has a reputation for not being 'up to snuff' and I'd prefer not to test that. It's not the multi-viscosity thing that attacks brass, it's chlorine that eats zinc. This stuff is usually added for limited slip fluid so the clutches stay clean and don't glaze. I can't really say which gear oils have, or DON'T have it, but one whiff will tell you. If there's an oil analysis over on BITOG you can know for sure. I'm only getting 15 minutes for lunch today, so I can't look right now..

Right, that's what I'm here for. 🙂 When I get to my '87 schematic tomorrow I can post the lights on/door chime/seatbelt diagram.

I have my 1987 EVTM up at my brother's house but I should be there tomorrow afternoon. I'm pretty good with schematics and finding the proper pigtails, so if you don't see me post it by the weekend please respond to this thread and give me a nudge. Here's the EVTM diagram for your '81:

There shouldn't be any up-down or in-out play. If this is your 8.8 rear other know better than me. I bought a gasket for my rear end, but ended up just using the green tube gear oil specific RTV silicone to hold my modified cover. It's been great. 75-140 synthetic didn't exist back then, so you'll never see it recommended but there's only upsides in using quality wide range multi viscosity gear lube. (Plus, the bags make it much easier to fill) I just spent a small fortune on my full floating 10.25 and while I used inexpensive Super tech 85-140 for the initial fill, I went with the Valvoline 75-140 synthetic for the 500 mile flush and probably won't touch it for years.

I've never really paid attention to the numbers, and 3M packaging differs between commercial and consumer products, but on the page Gary showed I would say it's the first one. 'emblem and trim adhesive' is what they use in the body shop.

If that's to me, I am quite clear on the concept of centrifugal/mechanical ignition advance. Really light springs bring the mechanical advance in very early and in a 69 SuperBee with a 383/727 combo it'll render it almost undriveable on snow. Look at the throttle and it'll spin the tires. As far as what is going on here, I'm not sure. The OP said "When I go to accelerate from a stop I get very little power/almost none until I hit 1700-2000 rpm and then the thing takes off." I could read that two ways - either the engine is lethargic at lower RPM but when it hits 1700 it lights up. Or, the engine revs but the truck doesn't roll much until it hits 1700. And it appears you and I are on the same page because you said "So please explain, is it just that the truck isn't putting power down (very loose converter) or is it that the cam timing is way off and the engine is unable to pull at low RPM? Or both???" So until we get confirmation on what the issue is we are spinning our wheels. ISWYDT

I finally had an opportunity to drain the trans., clean the inside of the clutch housing and the outside of the transmission. I was able to confirm that the above part number is correct and fits perfectly. While I ordered it thru Amazon (from a company called Auto Krafters), the part came in zip top bag with a Dennis Carpenter sticker on it. Now, I need to figure out what kind of lubricant to put back in the trans. The old lube has a red tint to it but I do not think it's ATF. It has a hint of the differential gear lube smell but isn't as viscous. Although, the FSM says it's supposed to be 80 weight. I'm pretty sure we ran 80w90 gear lube in the GT-350s. Could be Redline MTL.... 💡

Yep. I've turned mild-mannered engines into jack rabbits off the line by bringing in the advance a lot quicker. So the opposite is quite possible. If someone put heavy springs on both sides it'll be slow to accelerate from idle. If they want a drag racer they're going to have it all in right off idle. (Or locked out, like it was) Are you unclear on the concept, and what's going on here?

Perhaps the actual HEI can be identified? Is it a DUI? With the intention of a race truck, and evidently the thought and effort put into "waking up" the old 300, I'd be a bit surprised at a $50 distributor. But, like I said in the other thread it would be wise to look at how much advance it actually starts with, how soon it comes in and where it stops.

This is awesome. My friend Ian has an International Travelall and your 4 door reminds me a lot of that.

I'm paying more than $7 for 4 stainless hose clamps and I'm in no rush. While I appreciate immediate gratification I don't necessarily need it.

CJ I'm not sure what exactly the file size is but obviously some artifact's of the compression algorithm and messing with your image.

They sell this one -with hose clamps!- for $19. What's different???

It looks fine on my phone! 🤩 Are you saving it at a certain resolution, or are you using the resizing tool in the "insert image" drop-down? I'll have a second (third?) look, if I can get to a larger screen tonight.

I think I'm just going to install a 5/8 barbed ball valve and let the water pump dead head against it. I'm* a big fan of 'KISS' and everything I see just seems weird and bulky.

Not Jeff, but you've done an amazing job CJ!!! Wishing you two many happy miles together! 👍

Looking goooood! I'm glad I was able to get my shackle bolts out a year or so ago when I replaced my spring bushings. Thanks to Gary's generosity I had a really nice pair of shackles to put back in, and I didn't see any bad pitting, so I could reuse the bolts I had. Many thanks to Gary who worked with SKY on this kit. I live vicariously through his efforts to improve the ride of Big Blue.

I really want to bottle and sell Snake Oil "It'll Cure What Ails You!"

I don't mean to come off as contentious. Sorry! I never want anyone to feel unwelcome. I'm telling Gary he should get the background.... Otherwise we all chase our tails, with people suggesting stuff that's already done... two or three times! So please explain, is it just that the truck isn't putting power down (very loose converter) or is it that the cam timing is way off and the engine is unable to pull at low RPM? Or both???

I'm curious what 3M VHB will do with older trim pieces like the ones that originally relied on clips. I'm slightly worried it would leave a minor gap, but I have never had anything prepped and applied with VHB come loose, even in hurricane force winds. 3M also makes emblem/trim adhesive in black and natural amber. It's like gorilla snot but thicker. If you want it off you're going to need a chisel. 🔨

With Ford trucks the heater core is always bypassing the thermostat, so you don't really get airbound or ever lose heat. If you see where it taps into the water pump, and the intake bypasses right back, you can understand.

This is what happens when the same problem gets spread across multiple threads.

David has a point. Has it been proven that the mechanical advance is working properly and starts pretty quickly off idle? I've not been following this very closely with all else going on at the moment. Have either of you read the OTHER thread where it was discovered that the dizzy was locked out, but it was put right? I mean, I doubt that this guy has a Sun machine, or anything, but if it's advancing and the static timing is okay what more can you do?