ArdWrknTrk

The button has an alloy pellet (like solder, or woods metal) at its center. If the solder melts out the head has overheated and the warranty is void.

I replied by email. Wow. Hard to see that, in a good picture, on a good screen. I guess everything looks better,; in the dark, on your back, with grease, sweat and rust in your eyes.

These heads are freshly rebuilt. Didn't you see the overheat button and paint marker on the ends? Just a lot of shop dust and some surface rust from sitting.

Glad to see everything made it okay. The crossmember box looks a little crunched, but I doubt there's anything you could do to hurt that.

The two mount to perch nuts from each side. Bell bolts are six, and they are the only ones 7/16-14

Gary, I think the motor mount bolts and the bellhousing bolts are in that little jar. Be sure you have all the correct fasteners for the crossmember. As I said I couldn't get the bolts out of the top side of the rail because of the utility body.

No, not really..... unfortunately. I came to my container early and pulled the valves. I have to do some building complex maintenance here, and then go do rot repair for a painter. Then go meet a client. Then a realtor. Then meet with my roofer , and possibly help my ex - MIL move. Gary, I hear you will be busy too. You've got mail. Lol Sorry if the foam is a little shredded. I was in a rush and just wanted to get it packed in there.

Well, it's been a couple of weeks. I'm going to start porting these heads. Pulled the valves and everything looks good. I need to beef up the head stands I knocked together. They're just not up to the task.

I wired new lights into the flatbed yesterday, and have my friend (a Wehlen tech) coming to repattern the light bar. I'm getting set up to do some porting. I'll post pics in the 460 thread.

My carb is definitely tuned a bit rich. It is the performance jetted version of the Thunder Series after all.. I don't have a wideband like you Gary, but if I can get the 450 Y-pipe to fit, I will when I do the engine swap.. Without knowing A/F and having always been on the ragged edge of detonation with my advance curve, I would rather burn a little fuel than have a hole in my piston. All I can say is try it on stator current and see if it works for you. If the truck is fat and stumbling when half warm you can always add the extra complexity of a relay triggered by the stator wire.

Mine seems to come off just fine, but I may have to wind it a little tighter when the weather gets really cold. Not sure how it will behave then. Experience is limited to the past couple of months

My new Edelbrock works fine hooked to the stator wire. You are seeing AC voltage at the stator (black/white wire)

Bill, I'm going to Swathmore anyhow. Dover is only another hour according to Google maps. I really appreciate your offer, but... I'm putting your radiator flaps in with the rest of your parts. Is there a particular date that works best for you? I know the dates you've told me *don't* work.

David and Gary, I thank you both for bringing up the subject and showing both sides. I didn't start out looking to dismantle the 450 to sell parts. I just wanted the short block and Gary mentioned he wanted some bits too. Then Bill chimed in. Then Theo helped me pull the engine and noticed how clean the cab was for a New England truck. (it's from New Hampshire) Then ..... When Gary decided to get the 'huck' I told him that there was no commitment to anything I had pulled. But he wanted it anyway, and offered to pay shipping so I wasn't out of pocket beyond the packing materials. THAT is a stand up guy! I may not have a lot of faith or grace, but I try to live my life with integrity, mostly because when all you have is your word, it better be good.

I got Bill's radiator 'wings' too!

And *this* is why Theo needs a new cab. Well, three am and the cab is on the truck. I guess I'm starting my truck day early.

Done. Fabbed some really heavy duty taillights for the flatbed and installed them today (welded them on the frame) Removed the parking brake from the Zf and bolted it to a half pallet. I'm going to clean it up a bit before stretch wrapping it. Tonight I go to help Theo pluck the cab off the Superduty. (and get Bill's radiator wings)

But I’ve read elsewhere that there were some pre-‘96 trucks that got OBD-II connectors but they weren’t fully functional. Might Ford have been getting the wiring set up but not have the computer programmed for OBD-II? As for the computer’s position, is there room under a Bullnose’s kickpanel for it? And I’d have to cut a hole in the firewall for the connector? Just use the 90 as a template, and grab the tray from there.

Obd II in '96 model year. Why not the kick panel like every other Ford? The spot is there. The connector and gasket are available.

So your truck *does* have an ammeter? I'll post the wiring diagram and troubleshooting. Better yet, take advantage of the tremendous resource Gary provides and look for yourself at the EVTM charge circuit he has here on his website. Click the hamburger at the upper left of this page. Click EVTM. Choose a year. Click charge and power distribution. Choose with ammeter. There you will find all the factory troubleshooting, simplified wiring diagrams, and illustrations. I'm willing to bet you have a wire mis-connected, for the system you have.

Gary, I think he is saying that there is a difference in obd-II (eec-V) truck's PSOM. All of this is as far over my head as it is yours. But I am trying to learn as I follow along.

Really good progress! Thanks for sharing all the detailed photos

These transmission logic questions should probably be addressed to Mark Kovalsky, the Ford tranny engineer who worked there when these things were developed.

I can go back and get them. I don't know if I can save the Christmas trees though.

No, he has a 1G with an external regulator.