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Explain that to me please Jim. I dont have an engine builder. I am winging it with tech support from the different manufacturers. Which part? Too much spring pressure for flat tappets or reducing intake port volume to keep velocity up at low rpms?

Thanks guys on the job done. As for the holes I do have a spoon but have not used it yet. I did use a copper sheet before and was not happy how it worked so I hope the thicker spoon will be better. I don't have welding gas so no brazing. Would also need a small tip torch to keep the heat local and not warp the metal. Bigger holes I have used solid rod and welded with my MIG. Used a cut off wheel to cut the rod and did the same on the next hole. I think the holes I can get to the back side I will try the spoon. Starting on the outer edge of the hole and working to the center to fill it. Will try the same on the others too. Dave ---- I have some 3/8 plate, and some 2" bar I got from the old power plant, that I've cut chunks and made it into cones, domes, and wedges to fit various places. It really sucks the heat out of the sheet metal and you can weld right over it with the little mig I have.

Progress is good, Gary!

Sorry, Jim, I do not. If you remember [years ago], the one I found for you [rear] was at a shop and was being used to store lug nuts! This one is pretty, but pricy!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-78-94-Ford-Truck-4x4-Dog-Dish-Hubcap-Pickup-Four-Wheel-3-4-1-Ton-F250-F350/302537008954?hash=item46709c673a:g:t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG&vxp=mtr https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG/s-l1600.jpg That one actually has the D50-D60 size hole. I bought a E5TZ 1130-D for $55 delivered this morning. But I thank you for looking for me! :)

Gary, I was sure that pulley would come in handy. -This pulley was made for this application- Thanks so much for paying it forward and helping out a forum participant. You are a real stand up guy! (That's about all I can do without a rep button)

Subscribed, Brandon At over 350# open it is a good thing you swapped springs with a 256 cam. It probably wouldn't have made it through the 20 min break in with flat lifters. Intake port volume seems a little large for your goal of a stump pulling small block. Maybe you would have been better off sticking with the Performer and filling the roof with Devcon? I'm sure your engine guy knows far more than I do, so I'll shut up now and enjoy the show. The AVS I have on my truck now is a 650 1826. It was gone through a few months ago.

Whisler, If you use a flange nut instead of a nut *and* washer the threads start with your 'washer'. Mine hasn't slipped even though the 3G shaft is shorter than the old alternator. I was a little iffy about not having threads projecting from the nut but it seems okay in my case.

Gary has a lathe. He can make it whatever you want.

Great work Dave! It's amazing how you fit pieces in (like your firewall) You are an inspiration. When you weld up the holes do you braze them. Just pulse quick with a MIG? I have a bunch of chunks of copper (plate, rods, 'spoons') that I use for that kind of stuff if I can get at the back. Basically like a dolly, but for welding. I'm wondering what others do in this sort of situation.

Gary, I think the "unused" pulley is the one I sent you when I got rid of my A.I.R. pumps and bought the L&L bracket it came with, but I didn't need it. I know on my stock alternator the belt used to drive the pumps *from* the alternator was about 10mm (or 3/8") wide. But I do not know what was stock on earlier trucks. The biggest concern is that the belt rides on the sides of the sheave and not in the bottom. So too wide is maybe ok, but too narrow is definitely a failure.

No. I have a switch for the fountain lamps that light up my bed, but the backup lights are connected to the handy bullet socket that came in the harness from the factory. You can see the bullet block in the picture I posted.

You have it, unless it found a new home already. It may be two groove but I know *you* have a lathe.

I got a chance to take another pic of the flood light pattern this morning. And I did see a few older Ford's on the way (though not bullnose) The two '70's trucks are for sale. And the metallic green Flareside looks pretty good.. in the dark.

I do know that. My suggestion was that a larger diameter (like the V-belt pulley I sent Gary) would stop the chirp, instead of swapping in an LRC regulator like I did.

When this happened to others using a 1 wire, could be different in this case of looping it to the out put?, I do not know the condition of the rest of their system so they may of had a bad connection some place? Maybe it has to do with the higher output of the 3G ALT? What is nice is we can read about all the different ways people have done something, what has worked and what has not and then pick what we think will work for us. Oh yes the internet is grand! Dave ---- I can understand this Dave. (and edited my post) And definitely, "whatever works for you" In my personal experience I haven't had an issue with the alternator not charging. I have a voltmeter *and* a battery warning light in the cab. With good connections system voltage should not vary much, at all. Moving the sense wire put me at ease that the 3G would not burn my truck down or fry itself trying, like my 2G did on more than one occasion. I think David should replace his charge cable. If it is brittle, it is probably black inside too.

Remember the offset you need to have for the belts to line up. I bought the L&L alternator mounting kit which came with a pulley and I think I sent it off to Gary. RJM used to sell the pulley inexpensively. If you have a lathe you can bore the center of yours a little deeper. I'm using the stock pulley with a flange nut and Loctite. When Bill and I met last week he said he had the startup squeak and went with a larger Taurus pulley. (I have a LRC regulator for that problem) The shaft size is common (15mm, I think) so it's not too hard to find something that fits.

But you can only see the 20' or so to the pile. I want you to see how they look 50' -or more- back. I drilled and tapped the cap on either side of my receiver cross tube. This put them high enough that the bumper acts as a glare shield and far enough under that they are not prone to getting clipped.

I lost a hubcap today. (David, if you have a line on a 4x4 front -type 3- for 16" wheel with D44 size lockout...) I also tried to remember a pic of reverse lights, but I parked in a leaf pile...

And what do you do if you don't have arrows on an Android keyboard?

Easy to determine if the ignition switch is not "off" and leaving something on. Just turn something on that only works in run or acc, like the wipers. Otherwise, leave the adjustment alone! Finding that kind of draw is not difficult. Start at the connections of the fender relay and work from there, if you even need to go farther.

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT. Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed. I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging. What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT. Dave ---- Dave, I have a 2/0 charge cable with soldered lugs at each end and used NoAlox on installation. The issue is not going to be *between* the alternator and fuse.... ETA: in my truck.

This is why I loop the sense wire of the 3G to the output stud. If the Megafuse blows the alternator doesn't fry itself.

That is a well-thought out (so they didn't have liability) understatement of a viscous circle, meaning that the heat increases the resistance, which increases the heat, which increases the resistance, ......... until something gives. Frequently it is the alternator, but sometimes the truck. I'm talking about the charge plug, not the regulator plug. Rectangular, two BK/OR wires about 12Ga. and the Stator wire. The yellow 'sense' wire in the regulator plug comes from the fender relay *beyond the fusible link attached to the BK/OR wires*. So when the plug melts down and the always hot charge wires end up shorting to the case the link blows and the alternator will kill itself pushing power to nowhere, or the whole damn thing catches fire.

Bill, This is exactly the argument I had with one of the 'Guru's' over on FTE. For someone who posts beautiful color coded schematics of the various iterations of 'hot fuel handling' I think he is stuck when it comes to seeing the obvious. (No knock against him. He is a valuable and knowledgeable contributor) When that stupid charge/stator plug gets corroded and either sets the alternator full field or catches the truck on fire it is a problem. NOTE; I SAID WHEN, NOT IF!

Wow, that seems a lot longer than stock. So how long is the line overall? If it stops raining here I'll try to get out there with a length of vacuum tubing or something and mock it up.