ArdWrknTrk

I apologize. Did not realize how flat it is where you are. That it only happens *sometimes* makes it more challenging to diagnose. Are you sure it is fuel and not something like a sticking advance plate in the bottom of the distributor? It would be great if you could make it up to Skiatook for a GTG. Plenty of projects and knowledge to share at Gary's Garagemahal.

Yeah, I would stay away from media with compound mixed in. If you just want to burnish it maybe BB's or steel shot would be an inexpensive solution

If acrylic is scratched or exposed to some chemicals (like anerobic thread lockers) these tiny fissures are places for cracks to start. And acrylic does like to crack!

I guess the question is how aggressive a media, and what size? How do you feel about the background texture? How 'soft' a corner do you want on the letters and border? I use carbide paper on my surface plate for sharpening chisels and plane blades but for cleaning a surface (where I don't want razor sharp edges) I will put down one of those sheets of orange gasket rubber you can find in the plumbing supply. It seems to have just enough give that I don't cut myself.

My father was director of engineering for a number of acrylic companies (Polycast, Ever Kleer (?), and Cast Optics) Acrylic has good hardness and takes a good polish. (can be solvent, flame, or mechanical polish) It is also brittle, subject to notch sensitivity, UV, ozone and chemical attack.

It is hard for me to see that on my phone. Although zoomed way in it does look like the letters are not distinct from one another. I wonder what would happen if you attempted to wet sand the raised area with fine paper stuck down to a slightly resilient surface? This might polish up the flats while not leaving sharp corners.

Gary, "HP Nylon" just means using their *more expensive* HP printer. Go back and read their product specs.... I think you will find the HP is only a viable option when it is needed for its larger build cube.

Shapeways does do some post production finishing to its products. Some shapes need a support structure (much like a casting needs sprues) cut away. I think they do -or can do- vibratory burnishing and polishing using various media. Acetone vapor works very well to "polish" ABS and PLA filament pieces, but I was under the impression that this bezel was laser sintered nylon.

Adding an 8oz bottle of alcohol to a tank of fuel that already has 12.8oz *per gallon*(10%) is very unlikely to do anything. Back in the day adding drygas allowed a polar solvent to be miscable in a non-polar solvent, because it will mix with both. You either have a fuel restriction or an ignition that is breaking down at higher rpms. Figure a way to determine if your miss is load or rpm dependant. Drive in a lower gear on flat ground for a few miles. Drive in a high gear up a long hill. Do either of these cause it to happen, or be worse? "It's totally random when it happens" is not a valid conclusion. SOMETHING causes it to happen...

It's the Rodeo. I told her a year ago that the gasket was $2.87. Now it's inspection time again.

It makes a lot of sense The gasket can hang on the studs. The opposite flange can hang on the studs. One wrench tightening the nuts from one side. Compared to trying to get the bolts in the holes. Keeping them there while the gasket and opposite flange are lined up. Using two wrenches to tighten both bolts (while they're flopping around, still loose) On a moving assembly line.... That said, I have to go down to Philly and do just what Bill did for my niece. Her Cat flange is loose and the studs are fubared.

There's hardly any snow on the ground and it is strangely warm this week. I just hate being stuck. I need the two things I don't have. Time and Money.

I remember Loh Ford of Bridgeport . 1956 -86. Frank died last year but he left a lasting impression on many of us. His brothers Jay, Bob, George, and Rich all had a hand in Loh Brothers Ford of Stamford

My truck came with a fender relay that has face mounted studs, and was the old style rocker starter. I had major issues with contacts welding after a flywheel/clutch/ gearbox change even though all cables, connections, battery were new and good. I bought the cheapest PMGR starter I could find and ran the extra wire. I have had no problems since. If pulling the red/blue trigger wire from the 'S' terminal does not stop the starter from turning, you have welded contacts from excessive current draw. Whack it with a screwdriver handle or something and regroup.

245/75 r16 so they're actually smaller (shorter) than stock. 10mm is only 0.4 wider than my 235/85's

I bartered a set of snow tires for my truck today.

Look at the **left part** of 19a586. You'll see what I mean.

So *what is it* with a recessed round hole in it that sits between the blower housing and the plenum? Just a gasket???? I would think that a gasket would not be stiff enough to keep from being sucked into and rubbing on the fan

So what's the mid piece that houses the wheel? How can both of those occupy the same space?

It looks as if the piece that bolts to the flange you're pointing out is recessed. Idk. But if it is, maybe the fan itself could move forward, leaving everything else where it is able to bolt up. And the filter track could slip right in in front of (or behind) the flange

Square filter, horseshoe hole. But you can't really put a 1" spacer between the fan housing and the firewall seal, so... Find a 10x10 (or whatever) filter and bend a 1/2x1x1/2 channel to slide it into. And move the blower out enough for it to fit. Then cut a slot in the top of the plenum. Slide it in and seal the box

From the point closest to the hamster wheel by nv, to the wall of v. Pretty much at right angles to what you are suggesting. At least that way it would all be under the hood and you could get to it.

Like I said.... Space the blower motor out 1" and make a U channel to hold a furnace filter in front (behind?) the wheel. You could slide it in from the top if the hood allows.

It's funny. Because my truck has no A/C, the lever on my controls says 'Outside Air' - 'Vent/Heat' and 'Off' Of course off is not OFF, it's recirculate.

Seems like it would have to go between cowl and fan plenum. Spacing the fan/motor out might allow you to do that (somehow) Trying to make a modern vehicle out of a 40 year old one. It would be more expedient to re-skin Blue and call it done.