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430 is definitely corrosion resistant, but seems difficult to find in fasteners outside of chemical processing fields. Maybe better availability down there due to refineries and such. Does Bolt Depot offer 430 fasteners in the sizes needed?

And I got back this response: What are your thoughts? Seems really good for an SD compatible engine on 85 octane fuel. I don't do Facebook, so don't know what all he shares on there, but you might learn more if you're friended/following him.

I'm not reccomending anything, just pointing out that almost *any* bolt will work for these applications. I used regular hardware store stainless bolts for the exhaust manifolds when i swapped my engine (10 years ago*!*) They are still shiny and have a full hex. Even the bolts in the waterpump jacket looked fine when I replaced it a year or two back. Carbon is higher on the galvanic (nobility?) scale than any metals. Often the higher rated fasteners are going to corrode faster due to the carbon in them. Electrolytics is not my forte but im assuming corrosion happens because dissimlar metals in the presence of an electrolyte and oxygen is scavenging metal ions.

And Fastenal says this is their Technical Reference Guide on fasteners: I really only find 304 and 316 nuts and bolts locally. And 409 for use as exhaust tubing. None of these external fasteners are critical or highly torqued. A water pump or exhaust manifold is likely to see 30-40 f-lb, oil pans and valve covers are in inches. No need to get crazy about choosing an alloy. Would I use cres for a flywheel or connecting rod? Not likely, but you could find jet nuts or superalloy aerospace fasteners that would exceed spec. Up here we used to have contractors that made and sold high quality fasteners to local businesses like Pratt & Whitney, and Sikorsky. Almost all of that manufacturing has gone, and with it the surplus/reject outlets.

I think maybe you are missing the thrust plate that goes behind the cam gear? I cannot think of another reason for the eccentric to be so sloppy fore 'n aft. Block Thrust plate Cam gear Eccentric Retainer Washer Bolt The eccentric should be free to spin. I've never seen one flopping around that much.

That's really attractive. Congratulations! We can't have nice things like that up here in the land of snow and salt.

Any engine where they're pumping air into the exhaust manifolds to burn off CO and raw fuel before it makes it out the tail pipe has to be hot. It is no wonder 460's are known for cracking manifolds due to expansion.

If you look at the date under latest post, that will be purple or blue, depending on whether you viewed it or not.

Scott is very forthright with his knowledge and not trying to hardsell his work. Try to contact him and get answers. I would guess he knows at least as much about 385's as Tim knows about 335's. Aggree with him on the cam. I do not know about the internals of the 7.5l uppers, but I do know you have another.... So, why not work on the 'spare'?

Gary, you have two 460's and you don't have an adapter with internal hex????? FWIW, this is the same piece found on '60's 302 Mustangs (the inhex block thread adapter, not the right angle oil filter) No longer have that computer but do recall a C8 or C9 part number. So I'd imagine no difference in threads between the Windsor blocks. Edit; this said to fit all 302-351... https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL92003-Engine-Adapter-302-351W/dp/B006K8W68U

Does it smell like gear oil?

I use brass nuts to hold my head pipe flanges on the manifold studs. (And I realize even the passenger side is farther from the port than this plug) I've never had a problem.

Why even think about removal? If you do want to take it out, just use a brass plug.

No. You should have E7 heads on a 1990 truck. Someone has been there before..... But you already knew that!

And this chart: I'm not familiar with Acme threaded inserts (and I usually use Heli-coil) but they look like a good answer.

If you use a Keen-sert it cannot back out. Whoever did that repair likely did not remove the drive tang with needlenose pliers.

It does happen. Usually the cowl drains get clogged with leaves and dirt. Then the resulting 'mud' causes the inner panel to rust through. Since the water can't get out it follows the path of least resistance. You can also check that the windshield is not leaking and the resulting water running across the top of the firewall seam down the drivers side. Also check the caulk in the rain gutter and the seam between there and the top of the windshield. All of these have happened to me.

Gary, I think we need a tinfoil hat emoji too.... It doesn't surprise me at all that Google would push something to me that I had typed into my phone and searched for in Chrome. Their revenue comes from me clicking a link or having to watch an ad before I can see a video.

I have one Spectra and one ???? tank that I've bought through 'The Radiator Connection' eBay as they are in Hartford (about 80 miles from me) I would never consider a vendor who did not include shipping in their price.

Funny, this should end up in my YouTube feed. Broaching operation of a crank handle from about 15:00 to 26:00 Anyway, good footage of the tool and how it's used.

Before all the manufacturing disappeared around here there used to be little job shops that were based around one specialized process, or tool. There were EDM shops, plating and anodizing shops, and one shop that was *literally* built around a 5,000 ton! press brake. Any ironwork shop or fabricator should have a punch press and a 1/2" square punch & die..... Or, buy the die for their press for ~$100

If it is angle perhaps you could stack back to back forming a T. Does this leave room for the ram to push the last tooth out the other side? As long as the tool's next tooth is fully engaged in the workpiece before the previous one leaves I think you are okay. We all know that with something like a bandsaw blade you want *more* than two teeth engaged at one time or you are going to strip them. Chip loading is a factor as well. Maybe a call to Dumore would be the best way to get an answer.

Most of the 1/2" square push broaches I'm seeing have a minimum depth of cut of 1/2". (remember what I said about tooth engagement?) I'll have a look at better sources, but a $200 piece of tooling that does just what you want using a press you already have seems like a deal.

That all seems like a huge investment and a lot of space taken up for a few square holes. Would your plasma cutter be able to get a square hole close enough that it would clean up with a couple of strokes of a file?

Most of the pics in the first post of this thread show the bottle necked reservoir instead of the canned ham style. I've never compared the two but perhaps that is the answer.