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I'm glad these are going to work out for Big Blue. You sure have done a wonderful job cleaning them up!

E7 heads with F3 gaskets. I would say the threads in Huck's block need replacing.

Yes. It's there in Chrome on my devices.

How flat is the front? Maybe you could solder or braze a plate there.

A friend of mine taught his dog to ring a bell to go outside! He put one of those bells you used to see on parts counters (to wake up the counter guy that was sleeping in back) next to their sliding glass door. Every time he took the puppy out he bent down and used the puppy's paw to ring the bell. I guess it worked! Of course I (accidentally) taught one of my dogs to ring the doorbell to come back in. I heard the doorbell ring so I opened the door. No one was there, but the dog came running in. Apparently she had just got curious about the button and had jumped up to check it out, ringing the bell in the process. For the rest of the time we lived in that house she'd ring the bell a couple of times a week, and was always just waiting on the step to be let in when we opened the door! Funny. I'd taught my dog (when a puppy) to ring a bell I had put on a spring attached to the door casing. One day in the shop I hear 'clank, clank, clank' and realize she is flipping the mail slot with her nose instead of the usual one woof when she wanted to come back in. Pretty amazing how well they can train us!

That's ingenious Gary. I have a 9V with some alligator clips that I connect near the fender relay for the same purpose.

Makes perfect sense. The same way I can glance at an analog instrument panel and instantly tell if any needles are in or close to the red zone, while reading digital numbers and having to *consider* the context and implications of those numbers vs what should be 'normal' takes a second. Amazing -to me- that someone *literally* searching for information can't be bothered to RTFM when it is put in front of them, but I guess that's what's happened.

Seriously though, I understand the *oh, shiny* aspect of it. So you're suggesting a header shot of whatever is included in the subsection?

Perhaps not, but if presented as a glistening, shimmering, crystal clear pool of glacial runoff you are more likely to get a horse to drink than by showing it a sign that says “water”. Ah! "Raw" water With bonus Giardia & Cryptosporidium!!!!

Maybe if "search Garagemahal resources and documentation" was up in the stickies at the top of the page instead of at the bottom, people would use it more? I don't know and I'm not a psychologist. 'You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink' comes to mind.

Grease or paint on the head surfaces will transfer to the lower? There will be some misalignment because of the missing gasket thickness. Back in the day we would use pizza box for templates like this.

Sometimes I think it's better to just have a really long T40 bit than to tape a T40 socket to a 1/4" extension. But that's just me... I notice that I still have a Honda cylinder head tool (8pt, 10mm?) from the early '80's kicking around in my tool box.

Do you have a long bit to remove the fun little fastener you can only reach between the runners? Not sure the size but it seems like a good tool to have if you own one of these vehicles.

1977 emissions??? Huge vacuum leak. Spray a bunch of carb cleaner around. If it's not there, the intake is leaking from the valley. Did you try removing the PCV valve? And wafting an unlit propane torch into the valve cover?

I've done stuff with a stick that I never could have with any TIG setup I know of. Like welding through a hole or down inside a small box. I like TIG for the control you have, but sometimes there just isn't room.

'Place Bolts' You're making a lot of progress Brandon, and progress is good. I don't think there is anything special about the bolts holding the pickup to the pump. I would definitely use Loctite and the paper gasket.

You *could* use the hub of a second Saginaw pulley, vee them both, and stack them on a shaft for welding. Maybe brass or bronze 3/4 stock so there's no way for the pulley to accidentally get welded to the shaft? Make the adapter plate as thick as you need, and part off the excess hub? Leave it long enough that it bottoms and ream the back of the extension so there's not a huge amount of excess interference fit friction? Then getting the pulley in plane wouldn't be a guessing game.

This may sound crazy. Consider welding an extension 'collar' on the back of the Saginaw pulley? You wouldn't be able to just set it flush with the shaft but it would solve the concern of not being deep enough.

The only head that looks different is #4's reduced head. Otherwise it looks like #3 has a pilot tip and #1 has an expanded shank under the head. But, I may be way off base.

I don't have a 351 but my 460 had flange head bolts up front. I went with regular hex and washers when I changed to stainless.

Pete, That looks like a '70's Honda side cover. Have you ever used your hot iron to embed metal screen in the back side of a plastic repair? We used to do this with bumper covers before hot air welders and compatible repair sticks were available. If you want to use plumbing cement as a filler, consider shaving similar plastic into it to thicken. A $.69 fitting and a block plane or Surform tool will make flakes that easily dissolve and add body to your concoction.

That's for drw. Srw 350's I've seen are 9k. 250's are over 8,500 and below 9k. Do they read the VIN? Maybe you could just slap some 350 badging on it?

Do you have any noise when stopped in neutral? Rollover clatter is common and not a sign of damage.

To follow up on your thoughts about epoxy . My instinct would be West System G-flex with a fiberglass bandaid on the back to add tensile strength to the repair. This epoxy is not fast drying, and will allow you the time to wet out the fiberglass and remove any excess. If you are looking for an epoxy in a syringe, Devcon 22045 plastic welder hardens quickly and smells like it has some acrylic monomer in it. Seems to get a good 'bite' on interior plastic in my limited experience with it.

Oh, you absolutely need lubricant when assembling/disassmbling stainless fasteners. Nickel based antiseize seems to make sense here. But not so much when threading into something like cast iron or brass. Stainless on stainless will gall and get very hot. Sometimes you won't be able to get the nut off, and then you either have to break it or cut it free. Pretty sure both Bill and I have mentioned this before. I think this is why people say stainless is 'gummy'