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Hard to imagine fuel being pulled *from* a vacuum port, but without that line there's no chance. Picking away at one failure mode after another is just peeling the onion. Most carburetors aren't very complex but they are the equivalent of a bridle and bit at this point. Ask someone from an urban environment to saddle up your horse! In another generation ICE's will be as esoteric as a steam engine.

I agree with Gary. A mismatched 4bbl with an egr intake but no plate (or block off) will cause a big leak. Still shouldn't run if the choke is open and the idle screws are in. Maybe it's time for a smoke test? It doesn't even need to run for that.

Congratulations Gary Hope everything is two steps forward from here. Progress is good!

I wouldn't think 0.090" is a problem. But I don't know what the axial engagement depth is, nor the "lead" of the teeth on the starter. At least you won't have an issue with the starter not retracting far enough and being overdriven by the engine when it fires up. Although, your last post about tooth counts had me thinking more about radial engagement, which is a function of the clocking of the drive to the mounting bolts from what I recall. IOW the output shaft of the pmgr starter is not concentric with the mounting flange, and there is a difference between manual and auto starters. Bill and his son had hooked me up with some very good documentation back then but I don't have any backups to refer to.

I'm sorry Gary. Yes those are starter numbers. From what Steve quoted above I thought you were asking which starter to use for a flywheel v/s an automatic. It's my understanding that 460's weren't available with a clutch before the 1983 model year. Although some 429 powered muscle cars obviously had manual gearboxes. Not sure what those '70's Mustangs, Cougars and Torinos used for a flywheel. I remember having a heck of a time diving deep into starter gears and tooth counts when I swapped a Zf into my truck. As a data point, the cheap Chinese starter from DB seems to be as going strong, despite the bad tolerance of my aftermarket Dorman flywheel.

Lester 3225 for a flywheel. The autos take a 3226 Hth

Engine still runs with the idle mixture screws all the way in? Seems like the power valve is ruptured, stuck or the gasket is not seating. A vacuum leak will cause a high idle, but the engine needs to be getting fuel from somewhere.

Mine's an '87. The stick bolts to a stub of the linkage and comes out the top of the tunnel. I had no idea it was a unique system, but I can take pictures tomorrow if it helps.

When I swapped the '91 Zf5 and 1356 into my truck I had to use the linkage from the old T-19 to avoid cutting. I also didn't have the boot or shift stick from the '91. The linkage was a direct swap. If the E4OD is much longer you may need a linkage specific to it. Certainly you need to extend it. But IDK if the mounting bosses are the same.

The 4180 had a number of changes to meet emissions and federal 'anti-tamper' regulations. Metering plates instead of jets, capped idle adjuster screws, float bowls vented to a charcoal canister, etc.... It also had annular boosters which is a nice feature that helps with atomization. I'm running a 650 AVS at the moment and have both 650 and 750 Holley 4160's on the shelf. They all run well with my fairly stock engine and a Performer intake. With the tighter runners of a stock intake and the retarded cam timing from the factory you are probably better off with a 600 or 650 carb. Change the stock 8* retarded timing set for 'straight up' and you will notice the difference.

Most important is thread sealant. I use Loctite PST. Keep the electrolyte out and the casting won't oxidize.(as badly) I also grease the shanks of water pump bolts on installation. While stainless might not pit and key into all the corrosion, and you will still have a head on the bolt to turn. Nickel and chrome are more cathodic than iron and might cause more corrosion of the timing cover than a regular bolt. Carbon is right at the top of the scale, so a grade 2 bolt might also be less prone to disintegrating than 5 or 8.

IIRC means If I ReCall. In other words 'I believe that's the oil pressure switch is below and beside the oil pressure sender (can) at the rear of the intake manifold. You can jump the harness side plug with any loop of wire. With a sock at each tank pickup and the stock filter you should be fine. I know there is a fine screen in the vapor separator blue dot "T", but you say it's new. Can I ask if you see any fuel flowing in the return line back at the selector valve while you have the pumps jumped and running?

... He is using the large case -2 hole, 130A- but the narrower 7" C-C mounting ears. Mounting distance and case diameter are independent of each other.

Gary, Brandon is using a 130A alternator (large case) with the 7" C-C mounting. Small case (95A) are 135(?)mm in diameter, while large case (130A) are 148mm in diameter. The Windsor engines with a serpentine belt have a cast bracket with 7" centers. Some of the webbing needs to be relieved in order for the larger case to fit. RJM, and even GGM have the pics illustrating the difference. Though this is a side mount alternator you can clearly see how the 130A version is much closer to the mounting points. Perhaps Brandon can take some pics for you as he does the job? A round nosed carbide burr in a die grinder makes quick work of this.

I did qualify my statement by saying "my truck", but yes, I imagine a 1981 truck might have a completely different linkage. My truck has the range selector on top of the tunnel. I don't think it was until the OBS, or at least the aeronose trucks that Ford had the second stick coming out the side of the tunnel.

I think you have to go to Sheldon Brown for that.

In my truck there is a rubber block that acts as a spring to prevent the shifter from moving sideways and being able to drop into the neutral gate. If the rubber is petrified or the pivot rusted solid you won't be able to move the shifter sideways. Maybe it just needs some cleaning or lubricant.

I was thinking the very same thing. By the way, it's surprising still how many Bullnose trucks I see posted for sale that claim to have a 351c in them when you know they have a 351m. Not saying that it is impossible for them to have a 351c, just that it's unlikely in most cases, based solely on what the truck's condition is in the pics;). Except in Oz.

You might start by going under the truck and making sure the shift linkage gate is free to move forward and back, and side to side against the rubber bumper. Maybe there's mud or rust packed up in there and the stick won't shift sideways to get into neutral or 4lo?

Ford changed some of the service points (dipsticks, filler caps, ...) to yellow so owners could find them. Not to make the engine bay more colorful. I can understand the reasoning behind that since the '90's I've been seeing more and more people who are completely lost and confused under the hood of a vehicle. I even saw someone ruin a car once by driving it until it wouldn't move or run any more because they didn't understand what the red light saying HOT meant. But what goes in the 710 hole? Because there's nothing showing on the stick.

Gary, The regular 10.25 drum brake rear doesn't seem to have any problems with a parking brake. Converting from drum to disc is where the problem lies. The only problems I've had with mine are the pinion yoke loosening (early, short spline) and the hub seals. Updated (Scott type) seal within a seal seem to have solved the problem of gear oil getting into the drums. Discs would certainly make brake service easier and eliminate any adjustment of the primary braking system. But again, "not all that" IMO

You say your friend has a van with a Sterling but we are obviously looking at a Dana. Would they interchange? I know nothing about disc brake Dana's. Are their rotors trapped by the axles? Seems a pita for brake service. At least you can be assured the diff fluid gets changed on the regular.

I think the van track (width, flange to flange) was a little narrower as well. We all know these trucks are already a little narrower in the rear than front. Not sure how much it matters, but something to note anyway.

Is this supposed to be in the Merry Christmas thread?

The Ford/Sterling 10.25 is generally accepted as '85 1/2 model year. Another running change. What a that means as far as production dates go and which plants were using up NOS I have no idea. The fill plug is definitely Dana. 60 v/s 70 should be easy from the spring perches and pinion yoke, but again 'I've been wrong before'