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Yes, it would be interesting to know exactly what the wheelbase is on this truck.

A C&C truck will have straight rear frame rails, 2 1/2" wide springs and a frame width of 34". (gets narrower behind the cab) Has the bed on your truck been redrilled about 2" narrower per side? I have a hard time imagining someone going to the trouble of moving/swapping/welding spring perches and shock mounts to get a 70 beneath a pickup, when the 60 will carry more than the frame, or any of the rest of the truck, is rated for. Then there's the pinion yoke and driveshaft. I may be wrong... It wouldn't be the first time. This sounds like a Q for Diesel Brad

I like it! Dad's truck is really coming together. Everything you've done so far looks great, Gary! I'd be afraid to drive it.

Judging from your first mockup, quite good. You are speaking of PC'ing just the lock, Or the whole hub? Because I think I like the stainless surrounding it.

Just had a look at Warn website. The 20990 kit fits all Ford 1/2 ton from '59-'96. I think what had me confused was the additional nut kit (#32720) required. You should be ok unless Vernon installed a D50 axle that only came stock on 250's with extended cabs or plow packages. Those hub spindles have no taper, just like the D60 found on an F-350.

Ahhh, mine ARE Warns. I have to go back and edit that. I think it's probably the axle stub that differs. But I will look at my purchase history to try and get an item number.

Gary, I like red, and I like your idea to make them consistent with the rear centers. The F-250 has a D44 HD. Iirc when I got my Warn* premiums from Amazon in 2015 they were different from the regular D44 lockouts. Maybe you should look into that before you jump.

Did they know/remember to apply sealant to the splines before installing the yoke?

"Long pinion" 10.25 I hear 1/2" more spline length does a lot to keep the yoke from wobbling.

Gary, You used quotes, and I used incorrect (though realistic) terminology. So that part of this discussion is all on me. Your post above is very clear and has none of my nonsense verbiage. I say well done!

I don't think tooth count matters as long as the circumference is equally divisible by tooth width. .... And the radius is correct for engagement depth. Wow, did I have issues with that when I installed a Dorman flywheel. At least that's how it works with both metric (module) and imperial (dimeteral) systems. -This Old Tony- on YouTube has a great basic primer on gear cutting right now.

In my case all I did was connect to the existing green/red. The bulb lights because it gets power in run and without the alternator turning there's no equal output from the stator. No need to complicate things.

Gary, I never had an actual Ford harness in my truck. So I'm seeing the sense wire attached to the relay lug and not the alternator output. My Bullnose charge warning light works. I have to study the EVTM. Assuming the excite wire of a ammeter equipped truck just gets key on power from the external regulator.

The stator wire is in the 3G regulator plug, not the charge cable. I think a pic of a 3G conversion regulator pigtail, showing lt grn/red excite, yel/wht sense and wht/blk stator wires would be good. This could be shown on the back of an alternator and where the stator plugs, and the sense wire going to the output lug. Pretty sure this was on RJM's site back when it existed.

Lots of metric body and chassis fasteners in this era. Drivetrain would still be inch fractional. Back in the 1970's there was a big push for America to finally convert to metrics The United States Congress had approved and sought adoption 100 years prior to that, in the latter half of the 1800's And yet.... here we are. Isolationists in the fine company of Paupua New Guinea and Liberia (with whom we practically share a flag)

https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/ford-alternator-7756-f2uu-10300-f2uz-10346-f2uz-10346-f2uu-7756-p-3521.html Ford #'s and Lester #7756-3

Ok. Here it is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-ACDELCO-PRO-Reman-fits-1992-Ford-E-350-Econoline-Club-Wagon-7-3L-V8/401694122114?epid=76533411&hash=item5d86d5e082:g:b6IAAOSwXSJbIpqT&redirect=mobile Jonathan is vindicated!

I do see a listing on eBay showing a Leece Neville fitting '88-'92 7.3's But that is nothing like a 3G. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-NEW-Ford-F250-F350-7-3L-Diesel-1988-92-w-7706J-7706JA/282856215823?hash=item41db8b550f:g:jI4AAOSwZR9ajRqQ&redirect=mobile I think the best way to identify the 'correct' 3G is by its Lester number. That way you can apply it to any manufacturer.

I can't even find a listing for a '92 E350 7.3. I had captioned the pic, but it didn't show, so I edited the post to include the info.

From the DB website 7.3 pickups '95-'98 vans '95-'03

I'm not sure if they make a meter that could be hooked up so you could watch in real time. Though I have duct taped a vacuum gauge to my cowl vent before, so I could see it while driving. I was thinking of something more like an accessory gauge that could be left in place all the time.

Right, but you're not drawing anywhere near 130A. And the drive belt would slip if you tried. (No, more tension will only kill the bearings) Does it ever chirp on startup? I like the 130 because it will still charge at idle with all the lights and wipers on and the heater blasting. Thankfully I haven't been stuck in snowstorm traffic yet this year. I do wonder what an inductive ammeter would show on the charge cable. Or if a permanent installation of something like that is even possible.

Gary, A) I don't think the idi has a pivot mount. Iirc it is a 2 bolt side mounted alternator. Pulley alignment (belts in plane) seems the most important criteria. So check the offset, shoulder to belt centerlines before committing to the idi pulley. Sourcing a crank pulley with two sheaves the same size might be a challenge too. B) Ryan had graphs of the regular 130 putting out over 65 Amps at engine idle rpm, whatever the pulley ratio caused the alternator to spin. (so more at idle than a 2G was rated for outright, but exactly 1/2) Good of you to make that distinction, and observation. C) The "overclocked" alternators should have more robust diodes and heavier copper heatsinks on their rectifier board. The smaller case of the 95A alternators just doesn't provide enough cooling. (Fan flow and/or heatsink) I'm aware of the size and pulley width of the Mitsubishi 200+A ambulance alternator. I doubt any 3G case size unit could do that for long, even if it was chain driven.

LRC (load response control) regulators were found on Lincoln's and other luxe barges because of things like heated and auto adjusting seats. I never saw a 3G with a V-belt pulley. I always called it a pivot mount. With 7 or 8.25" c-c spread. Other styles include side mount and V-mount. Belt squeal has always been an issue. Ok, that's my 2c.

The Borg Warner T-18 has a cast iron lid, while the New Process' lid is aluminum. You can look on the Novak Transmissions website for more details like casting numbers, ratios and such.