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.... I recall that my cross member was stamped '460' or '460 only' on the rear side. I do not know if the bolt pattern for the perches is any different

I feel your pain Gary. I know for sure that the 460 cross member has a hole in it so you can tighten the right angle filter adapter. That would be an easy mod to any cross member with a hole saw or plasma cutter. Again, let me know if there is a angle or dimension that you need.

That's a very good description Gary. One thing I would add is to start with the radiator cap *off*. Suddenly pressurizing your cooling system to 100psi can cause trouble with heater core, hoses, freeze plugs, etc... Yeah, the cap *should* release but why take the chance? If one has a regulated source of air leak down testers may be available to "rent" from the bigger parts stores. A cooling system pressure tester is also available. I don't know of any places that have the reagent to test antifreeze for combustion byproduct.

I'm glad the picture helps you visualize what WAS. If it were me, at the very least I'd install the other bolt and weld some material back in. If there were a source I'd consider replacing the cross member. I don't like square notches or the stress risers they create, at all.

Gary, In reply to your first post. Yes the bump rubbers are very close to an F-250's reverse arch springs. In large part to the TTB's inability to deal with geometry changes and partly because of the way the TTB twists the leaf spring on its bushing and shackles. There was a little discussion about this in the previous 2wd to 4wd F-250 thread. I have no idea what Ford was thinking and Bill refers to it as a crackhead design.

Gary, I have some good shots of my truck's cross member being power washed at the beginning of my Flickr set '460 repower' It is raining atm, but if you want me to take some pics when it dries out lmk.

The aftermarket alternative is about $70 with the pigtail plug. You do have to modify the stock harness and lines. OEM may have lasted 33 years. I know I've never changed mine. If I did I'd save the $250 to put in the tanks.

I would always do a leakdown test before condemning the head gaskets. Gary is a big proponent of this as well. There are other possibilities that are better (corroded water pump backing plate) or worse (cracked head) At least you would know what's wrong and where the problem is before opening the engine up. Water is not a good lubricant and naturally it will sit in the bottom of the pan where the pickup is. It's also good to check accessories while you have the belts off. Try turning the power steering, water pump and alternator by hand. Do any of them feel rough or have any radial play? How about the fan clutch? Does it turn smoothly when cold? Not free, but smooth. Any one of these can squeal with the engine running.

FWIW, here's the variety of suppliers the Pollak selector valve is sold under. (Edit) Be sure to get a *kit* that includes the plug. Maybe O'Reillys stocks one of them? 42-302 42-302P 6 Port Fuel Tank Selector Valve Kit Harness - Gas Diesel ACDELCO GM ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT 14029228 ACDELCO GM ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT CANADA 14029228 AIRTEX AUTOMOTIVE DIVISION 8F1312 BWD AUTOMOTIVE FSV3 CARQUEST 541701 CARQUEST/STANDARD MOTOR PRODS. 541701 CARQUEST/STANDARD MOTOR PRODS. FV5 CARQUEST/WELLS 541701 ECHLIN 22198 FEDERATED IGNITION FSV3 GP SORENSEN FSV2 KEMPARTS FTV2 NAPA 22198 NAPA 32198 NAPA/ECHLIN FUEL SYSTEM-CRB 22198 NAPA/MILEAGE PLUS FUEL-MPF 32198 NIEHOFF UN52 POLLAK 42149 POLLAK 42203 SIERRA MARINE FSV2 WELLS 541701 WELLS FSV2

Bill, Since you have (had) an '86 460 with in-tank pumps can you tell what is unique about this year? I've heard a lot of 460 & diesel guys retrofitting the unobtainable Ford switch valve with the Pollak 42-302 six port kit. Maybe Jonathan knows something about it too? Yes, you have to wire the new pigtail plug and eliminate the Ford nylon hose end clips. This motor driven valve does switch senders and has 3/8 supply with 5/16 return ports. My understanding is it's widely available in the aftermarket.

F-250 is already eight lug. Super cab's and plow packages have the D-50 with 350 sized hubs, but the wheels are lug centric anyhow so there's no issue there.

It's an electric pump. It's either off or on. This is why Bill said to check volume not pressure. And why I said to check after the screen of the vapor separator. You can jumper the fuel pump relay to test while you have the hood open looking at the fuel flow.

Was the truck having an issue with spark knock at 14°? If you want to know how to optimize ignition timing go to the Jeg's site and look up the Crane adjustable vacuum advance unit for '70's Ford & Mercury. Under documentation they have a PDF of the instructions. These are detailed and have to be followed in proper order. Bill (85 Lebaront2) owned a tune-up shop and can detail what to do. But if it was working before the swap I wouldn't mess with it now. You have too much else to do in the coming weeks.

So, I was really thinking of the timing chain when I asked about mileage. This is different than ignition timing. 11degrees sounds like a good place to start. My truck made it to 280,000 with regular maintenance before it spun a rod bearing on a bitter cold morning. Another 150k in the past 11 years on a reman motor, and I wouldn't expect a dedicated tow rig to see nearly that. But if it's 106,000 on a stock nylon gear you are past due for replacement.

Stock timing chain with nylon gear is good for only 75,000 in my experience but if you have no trouble with the carb spitting back then I don't see that as the issue. But wear will retard the cam even more than the stock eight crank degrees, and will cause a loss of power. Consider dropping $50 on a Cloyes steel roller set if you ever need to replace the water pump. At least the AIR pumps are out of your way already.

Adam, What caused you to swap carbs? Check fuel delivery before you go to the trouble of pulling the carb, but I know it was an issue when I went from a Holley to my 650 AVS. I used a scribe but you could just use a Sharpie marker and the Edelbrock's proper base gasket to match the ports. Your gearing is going to cause your truck to have shorter legs than mine and a stock cam will run out of steam on top, but you should be able to easily pull 14k at 3,000 rpm with your rig. If looking for more power on the cheap consider a straight up timing chain set. BTW, how many miles are on the engine? , Jim

I have the same carburetor on my 460. With 4.56 gears you shouldn't have a problem pulling that trailer, let alone just getting the truck going at 55 mph. That's what a rig like this was made for. You say "mountains". Is altitude a factor where you live? Carburetors don't compensate well for thin air, but rich is not the same as running lean. There is no catalytic converter on your truck. You should check for fuel volume at the carburetor (after the vapor separator T, if it's still there) Bill can better explain how to jumper the fuel pump circuit to enable this test. But I think your friend is on to something. Given your symptoms the secondary throttle plates may well be blocked from opening. Let me ask. If the AIR pumps and emissions have been removed, is there still an EGR spacer under the carb? Check for clearance by removing the carb and looking to see if the base gasket is clear of the rear pair of venturis and then seeing if the intake ports do not obstruct that same gasket in any way. I know I was unable to find a spacer that worked with this carb and had to resort to a die grinder to open up the rear ports for the butterflies to clear. If the fuel volume test goes well this is the next thing I would check. Just my 2c. Good luck with your trip and your new tiny home.

Regarding the RSK/SAS a number of threads have suggested the Sky "Ford no panhard" RSK kit as the only one that is suitable for a TTB 4wd 250. All the spring and shackle bracketry is included. You'll need a torch, welder, drills and reamers And you still need the F-350 blocks on the rear axle as the RSK gives inherent lift to a 250 front end. But that's for a 4x4 truck that has leaf springs already. Having to remove the coil spring towers, figure out shock mounting and source a whole new driveline is another story. Too much trouble in my opinion.

My buddy Bill has a Steam Jenny! That thing is a beast and will blast off all kind of grease, grime and gunk. Be sure to keep it away from tie rod ends and ball joints because it WILL soften the boot and blow out the grease and replace it with hot water. I usually put engine degreaser on a more than warm engine and use a cheap dish or vegetable brush to loosen any tough deposits before rinsing. Get under and scrub before you start hosing so you don't have to lay in a greasy puddle. If it's really bad just go after it every weekend until you finally find clean metal.

Or maybe find an '85 and down 250 to scavenge. Then you will have the solid axle and none of the TTB headaches. Buying an axle, hubs, brakes, rotors, steering gear, springs, tranny, TC, drive shafts, etc. is going to cost more than a donor, and you still won't have all the bits to make it work as it should.

An '86 250's 4wd front end is really nothing like 2wd. '85 1/2 was the change from solid axle In addition to the TTB and springs you will need all the steering gear from the pitman arm out, the spring shackles that fit up front inside the frame rails, front cross member w/ pivot bushings, sway bar & mounting plate, the trans cover with the second stick hole (and unobtainium boot), dash indicator, speedo drive/cable from the transfer case, etc. Having driven a 4wd 250 for the past 32 years I would say you are better off buying a straight axle kingpin 4wd 350 and using that to swap over. Then you will have the taller rear blocks and U-bolts for the rear. The ride is smoother and turning radius is much improved. Keeping a 250 aligned is a pita and the ride is harsh. The only issue with that is finding a donor 351 F-350, rather than a 460 or IDI as most are.

Adding intake length (spacer) can help power in some instances.... You need to look at the manifold to figure out why your carb doesn't seal. Take the new thick gasket and hold it to the bottom of the carb. Drop the gasket over the mounting studs of the manifold. Is there somewhere that it doesn't line up? The EGR would have been in the factory spacer, but the port would also be in a factory manifold. Is the manifold iron or aluminum?

If your current manifold has EGR (a notch that wraps around the back of the carb inlet) then you need to close it off. To both the inlet and the atmosphere. Most aftermarket spacers don't do this. You need a block off plate, available from Edelbrock or Transdapt.

What intake is on the truck now? Will the new gasket cover it? Or do you*need* the spacer? How is the throttle cable alignment? Would the spacer help or hurt?

We've had ICE powered personal transportation ubiquitous for a century. ~4 generations, imo. 25 years from now???? Battery electric and fuel cell vehicles eliminate ignition, exhaust, fuel metering and much cooling and braking. Never a tune-up, oil change, filter, belt or exhaust replacement nor concern about emissions. This is going to be devastating to the aftermarket parts sector and petroindustrial complex. *They already win unquestionably in performance and equivalent fuel economy* Our electric infrastructure has a long way to go though. Investment here will be huge and painful. Sorry for the thread tangent.